I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the ide controller on the motherboard. I had a old maxtor ide controller around and after I put it in and reformated it booted and is still working. Do not know if that is your problem but thought I would mention it.
I have a system that worked fine for years and then all of a sudden will not start. There are no beeps. It simply starts for a second and then shuts off. I have norrowed it down to the motherboard, cpu or memory.
My question is: could a dead cmos battery be the cause. Or in other words...
thanks for the input. i bought it thinking i would run windows 98 on it and use it just to surf the net but unfortunately the version I have is not the second edition and it appears most wireless cards need second edition to function. Since I also had an extra version of xp I decided to try...
I bought an old laptop with and loaded xp on it. It only came with 64 mb of memory. Needless to say it is slow. It is upgradeable to 128 for about $50. Does nayone know if I would see a worthwhile performance increase? I am wondering because even 128 seem low.
If you have a win 98 startup disk, you should be able to boot from it, type fdisk, and then delete the logical drives in the extended partition if you have one, then the extended partition, and then the primary partition. Once this is done you should be good to go.
Does anyone know what the agp and pci multiplyers are when this board is overclocked. Specifically, when do they change to 1/2 for the agp and 1/4 for the pci.
I am pretty sure the blue is the primary. They added the blue when they went from ata 33 to ata 66. The blue requires the 80 pin cable instead of the 40 pin. I am a little fuzzy on the exact number (ie from 33 to 66 and 80 vs 40 but the principle is correct) I would hook up to the hard...
I do not have a recomendation but I would not knock yourself for buying from best buy. They might be a little more expensive then somewhere like newegg but sometimes it is worth it since it is so easy to return it if you do not like it.
I just pickedup this board for cheap at newegg. The instructions say the soft power connector has two wires labled 5vsb and spwr. Normally I see this labled pwr and grnd. Does anyone who has this board know which is the pwr and which is the ground.
I just pickedup this board for cheap at newegg. The instructions say the soft power connector has two wires labled 5vsb and spwr. Normally I see this labled pwr and grnd. Does anyone who has this board know which is the pwr and which is the ground.
One other thing, assuming your 9-10 volts on your 12 volt line is correct, I think it is a sign that your power supply is not adequate. But hear again this is based on things I have read, not experience.
I have read posts that it can damage your components but I really do not know. Also the specs you are seeing are they from the bios or while in windows using monitoring software. I have also seen posts that say the windows numbers are sometimes not correct, the best is to look in the bios...
The 12 volt line should run within 5 percent plus or minus. So that would mean 11.4 to 12.6. This came from an atx specification version 2.1
Table 6. Voltage Tolerances
Voltage Rail Tolerance
+5VDC ± 5 %
-5VDC (if used) ± 10 %
+12VDC ± 5 %
-12VDC ± 10 %
+3.3VDC ± 4 %
+5VSB ± 5 %
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