Take a look for Exide AGM batteries, they've got a LOT more power than regular lead acid batteries and if you're spending $100/$108, you might as well spend $130-$150 for a killer battery.
However for your particular car, if I were in your shoes, I'd just get the cheapest battery.
Definitely the control arm bushings; the sway bar helps to limit lean in corners, whereas the control arm actually connects the spindle/wheel to the car.
It might save you a bit to get both done at the same time though.
Look at the shape and location of the filament in the halogen bulb compared to the salts in the HID bulb, that's why your light pattern is significantly different in the halogen projector (which is not deisgned to work with an HID bulb):
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/O0AOx4Z9C44/maxresdefault.jpg
The article doesn't explicitly state it, and I highly doubt this ist a dry sump setup... they've simply routed the output from the internal oil pump or the oil filter into the oil storage "Nexcel" before it gets delivered into the engine (or vice versa).
I wouldn't mind this product...
Thanks, that helps clarify things a lot!
Now my final question: Can you anyone recommend a good, Server 2012 compatible wireless adapter, preferably internal? Or will anything that has Windows 8.1 x64 drivers generally work with Server 2012?
Seems like the Netgear EX6200 + DD-WRT flash would be the way to go then!
The SmartRG SR505n only has a dual-core 400mhz CPU + 128mb RAM, and I'd like to off-load WiFi duties from it in the future - I should have stated that I'd like to move to AC in the future, specifically on the 5ghz band...
I currently have a SmartRG SR505n DSL Modem + WiFi router in one room, with one PC connected via wired.
In another room, I will have 2 PC's on the same desk that need connectivity. Running wires isn't an option in the apartment.
I believe I only have 2 options for connecting these 2 PC's...
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