Well I went to Circuit City to buy the Samsung 2253BW for $299 and was pleasantly surprised to see 2 2232GW's in the case, which is the one I'd prefer anyway, since it's a GW which has a glossy screen like my w2207 - but their website said the GW was not available in stores so I scratched it off...
Now I'm thinking of getting the Samsung 2253BW since it's available locally for $299. I went and looked at some monitors yesterday at Best Buy, they had the 2232BW+ which looked pretty good. Circuit City across the street has the 2253BW, I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow at lunch time and...
Actually the VX2255wmb tested better on grays and colors out of the box than the VG2230wm :) (which surprised me) on DigitalVersus.com
The VX is also $40 cheaper and has the rebate whereas the VG is $299 flat @ NewEgg (no rebates).
Now I'm even looking at the Samsung 2253BW but I'm gun-shy...
I'm shopping for a 2nd 22" and I'd like to get another w2207 or the LG L227WTG to have the glossy screen, I'm thinking about the ViewSonic VX2255wmb which DigitalVersus rated very highly.
I do need a monitor with good color representation because I do PMS color/graphic design work (mainly...
CoreTemp displays what it should be at (technically) but doesn't display the current fsb/multiplier.
CPU-Z displays the current fsb/multiplier and refreshes/updates itself every second (or less, probably).
When Speedstep affects the multiplier, CPU-Z will show that difference but CoreTemp...
Because not all aftermarket HSF are made the same and that one probably stinks? :D
It's either that, a mounting issue, or a thermal paste issue. Try reseating the heatsink and cleaning then reapplying your thermal paste. If the temps don't fall then get a different HSF. ;)
Use CoreTemp to check your temps.
AFAIK it offers the best results (closest to what they actually are). I've seen many people say other apps (like using the bios PC Health Status or other apps like Speedfan) are off by several degrees.
Yep, speedstep. Lowers multi from 9x -> 6x to conserve power/energy/temps. You can disable speedstep in the bios; info is in the oc guide. You want to disable both EIST and C1E which will handle both the lowering of the multiplier and the vcore.
Your link for temps isn't working.
Use...
Here's one for a system I built for a friend...I will have another one to add (very similar, different ram though) in a week or so.
CPU:e2160 (L2)
FSB and Multi: 9x333 / 1333 fsb
Vcore: 1.344v (cpu-z idle), 1.320v (cpu-z load) - 1.365v (bios)
Mobo: IP35-e
RAM: G.Skill 2x2 DDR2 800...
No, NewEgg just never has it in stock (or at least I've never seen it in stock).
Get it for $42.99 at SVC.
http://www.svc.com/ultra-120.html
HR-01 is not the same, HR-01 is designed for passive/fanless cooling.
Ultra120 is designed to use active/fan cooling.
Yeah, what motherboard?
I'm running Prime95 on a system I built for a friend a few weeks ago (that I didn't get around to stress testing then).
E2160 L2 stepping
IP35-E
got it running 3ghz (333x9)
cpu vcore 1.32 @ idle, vcore is 1.29 @ load (I believe).... so .03 vdroop
G.Skill DDR2...
You & me both man.
Frickin' abomination of a heatsink assembly schematic.
I've said it before, I'll say it again - whomever came up with that crap needs to be handed his pink slip.
Even if running at stock I'd rather pay $40 for a backplate HSF or at least pay the $10 for the Thermalright...
1) You've almost went through a whole tube of AS5? Umm, too much I think? Applying too much is no better than applying too little; too much is a heat insulator and will give you heat issues just the same as not applying enough.
2) Freezer 7 for all intents and purposes is no better or worse...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.