who is wrenching today?

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bbhaag

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2011
7,137
2,571
146
Finally got around to getting the annual mower maintenance done. The ramps I brought home from work didn't have enough lift to give my impact enough clearance so I had to improvise with some spare lumber I had.

Not my proudest moment but look at that wheel articulation on my Cub Cadet. It would make a Ford F-150 Raptor blush!
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
2,442
346
126
I had a tough experience replacing brake lines a couple years ago. Failed lines were on a Ford sedan. Went to the nearby parts store and bought American-size bulk brake line and fittings. They loaned out for free a brake line flaring tool set. Every time I tried to flare the line end, the flared end came out crooked and useless! MANY tries. Finally I realized that the store sells both American and Metric brake lines etc. for use on all cars, and the flaring tool kit they loaned me was for metric lines. In it, the small "mushroom" die you stick into the end of the cut line has a shaft to slip into the line bore. and then you compress to shape the end. This set's die had a shaft too small, so it would NOT stay straight when being compressed in, and the resulting flare was crooked. Back to the store, and they do not have an American flaring tool set to loan out! I finally sweet-talked my favourite mechanic into loaning me the proper-sized mushroom die from his American set, and the very FIRST try with that was perfect! All splices completed and worked just fine. LUCKY I had started out by cutting the line too long, because I had cut off short pieces with bad flares several times before finding the problem.
 
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[DHT]Osiris

Lifer
Dec 15, 2015
16,852
15,894
146
I had a tough experience replacing brake lines a couple years ago. Failed lines were on a Ford sedan. Went to the nearby parts store and bought American-size bulk brake line and fittings. They loaned out for free a brake line flaring tool set. Every time I tried to flare the line end, the flared end came out crooked and useless! MANY tries. Finally I realized that the store sells both American and Metric brake lines etc. for use on all cars, and the flaring tool kit they loaned me was for metric lines. In it, the small "mushroom" die you stick into the end of the cut line has a shaft to slip into the line bore. and then you compress to shape the end. This set's die had a shaft too small, so it would NOT stay straight when being compressed in, and the resulting flare was crooked. Back to the store, and they do not have an American flaring tool set to loan out! I finally sweet-talked my favourite mechanic into loaning me the proper-sized mushroom die from his American set, and the very FIRST try with that was perfect! All splices completed and worked just fine. LUCKY I had started out by cutting the line too long, because I had cut off short pieces with bad flares several times before finding the problem.
Yep, good save. My whole first day of this job was accounting for my gear, and stamping (mostly failed) double inverted flares and cutting them until I figured out all the little techniques to doing it right, so I wouldn't screw up a 20' run of the stuff. I can't work on much of this at a time due to my schedule, but I've got the two 1/4" reservoir lines cut and flared, and the front left wheel taken care of. Just three more to go then I get to find any leaks! While the other three are far longer, it's a LOT less fiddly... that front left wheel was annoying because the line had to snake through a lot of corners and metal shaped like a twisty straw doesn't snake well.

I will say this was already a smart idea, the hose-side of the front left line was so rusted that it snapped off as I was trying to unscrew it. It wasn't actually leaking yet, but it was just held together by layers of rust at this point. Would have failed within a month or two I'm confident.
 

iRONic

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2006
8,067
3,382
136
Reason #8 why I do my own tire rotation & routine vehicle mainltenance: getting a good look at the brake pads, rotors, hoses, and lines. Suspension components and other visual features under my loser cruiser…
 

tcsenter

Lifer
Sep 7, 2001
18,861
509
126
Bonus, it wasn't supposed to come with the high and low beam bulbs, seller listing even puts that in bold. I don't know what happened, but the ones I received came with bulbs. Still keeping my old ones though for spares. Will need to adjust the aiming of these, moderately misaligned. When I replaced the ones on our Trailblazer, they were aimed just right with no adjustment needed.
 
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tcsenter

Lifer
Sep 7, 2001
18,861
509
126
Fixing the bumper gap and sag on the Trailblazer. It was due to a bumper mount (plastic) coming unbonded to the bumper which seems pretty common with these. Special guest appearance by "Muffin"....




Here is the offending plastic mount. I used epoxy:



Yeah it ran all over. Had it clamped for two hours, gonna let it harden for a couple more hours. I used "quick set" epoxy that is supposed to be 'working strength' in 6 hours. All surfaces were roughed up with coarse sand paper then scrubbed thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and brush to degrease.
 
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trenchfoot

Lifer
Aug 5, 2000
15,501
8,032
136
Fixing the bumper gap and sag on the Trailblazer. It was due to a bumper mount (plastic) coming unbonded to the bumper which seems pretty common with these. Special guest appearance by "Muffin"....

View attachment 124741


Here is the offending plastic mount. I used epoxy:

View attachment 124742

Yeah it ran all over. Had it clamped for two hours, gonna let it harden for a couple more hours. I used "quick set" epoxy that is supposed to be 'working strength' in 6 hours. All surfaces were roughed up with coarse sand paper then scrubbed thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and brush to degrease.

Just passing this along: I've had great results with this 3M adhesive with things structural on cars: https://www.amazon.com/3M-38315-Pan...cphy=9032185&hvtargid=pla-2281435179058&psc=1

The OEM stuff is too costly for me to justify. I've also used Devcon 10110 if the gaps are within 1/8". Strong stuff.
 
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trenchfoot

Lifer
Aug 5, 2000
15,501
8,032
136
For once I had an easy job to accomplish on my '99 Taco Prerunner. Horn went south so all I had to do was swap out the clock spring instead of the 'ol spring pin and that oh so easy to lose teeny tiny e-clip.




Replaced my rear brakes today; they no longer make the squeak of death.

Good job. Saved you a healthy dose of labor cost at yer friendly neighborhood broke-chanic. Good thing your low pad indicator worked. On our 2004 Nissan Quest that we've had since buying it brand spank'in new off the showroom floor, the indicator I got was a growling noise and a shudder. Rotor was too far gone by that time. Usually go with Hawk pads but tried Akebono's on the advice of a mechanic friend of mine. No regrets.
 

trenchfoot

Lifer
Aug 5, 2000
15,501
8,032
136
Went crazy and picked up a $650.00 Sunbrella truck cover for our Taco a couple of years ago and now the thread bindings are rotting out and coming apart at the seams. Called Covercraft for warranty coverage, sent them these pics. Spent some serious bucks shipping it back to them and glory be, they're going to send me a new replacement. I asked them if they could send the old one back so I can use the used up yet usable Sunbrella material to cover my lawnmower, BBQ, and outdoor furniture but they wouldn't have it. Maybe some more begging and paying for shipping might change their minds.

 
Reactions: iRONic
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