It's that or none conductive battery terminals. I could do a flow chart, but I'm pretty sure we all know where is ends.
It's that or none conductive battery terminals. I could do a flow chart, but I'm pretty sure we all know where is ends.So, operator error?
Ya, you'll magnetize the file.Just don't place the file across both terminals at the same time...
Doh!Just don't place the file across both terminals at the same time...
Smartypants, all me files is already magnetized. Deputized too.Ya, you'll magnetize the file.
I can speak from experience the AMES is a piece of garbage. Harbor Freight garbage. You want a decent Chinese made meter at a decent price? Get a Klein.Drives me nuts. I got a new battery installed in my car a couple weeks ago by AAA affiliated local company. Seems to be fine. Using two multimeters, one a Triplett (bought online, around $50) the other Ames (bought from Harbor Freight, not one of their cheapies), either often says 0.00 volts DC.
The Ames MM has V as AC/DC, either. The other I set at 20volts DC max.
Sometimes they do show the voltage. I got one today to say 12.63v for a bit. Or it goes immediately to 0.00 again. I have tried moving the dial back and forth between detents, thinking some contact(s) aren't making a good connection. That's worked sometimes. The other day pulling out the leads and reinserting has fixed the problem. Today, neither fixed the issue. I'm pressing the probes onto the top of the battery posts, which are clean metal and with force, of course.
I have a Fluke MM but am afraid to even try it thinking it may affect the device, but I assume it would work.
Is it that the battery has too much power?
AI is no help.
I ordered a Klein MM325 yesterday based on your suggestion. I think I've heard the Klein recommended before.I can speak from experience the AMES is a piece of garbage. Harbor Freight garbage. You want a decent Chinese made meter at a decent price? Get a Klein.
I messed with the Ames MM yesterday and the reading was jumping all over the place, making no sense at all. Apparently the problem was where the leads plugged into the MM. Very loose and solid contact was not achieved. I have something similar going on with my 6qt Instant Pot. The plug doesn't make solid contact with the unit. It will actually turn off as if the plug was pulled while in the midst of "cooking." That's happened I think twice.While I am confident OP will eventually figure out why the voltmeters are reading zero, I want to point out that voltage readings will not tell you anything about the amount of charge. A shorted (or open) cell is the only problem that will show up as a significant voltage change.
Disconnecting the battery means my clock starts at 12:00 when it's reconnected. AFAIK, all my radio presets are gone. That's no giant problem, but an inconvenience. I've never looked into it, but yeah, I guess a pretty serious relay would be involved. I think I saw a video a few weeks ago in which a guy said certain cars' problems can be resolved by removing power from the computer and disconnecting the battery would do that.Something like this might be worth looking into:
Thinking about it for my truck. I'm just don't know if I trust a relay that's under $100 to be able to pass 100's of amps. When I looked them up on Digikey they were all several hundred bucks. But even if the contacts eventually wear out it should last long enough for the life of the vehicle at least. Saves from having to keep opening the hood up to shut off the battery.
I have the CL800 and its been a fantastic meter for the price. The MM325 has similar good ratings, feature set is unbeatable at that price, should be a good meter for you. My $90 AMES clamp meter started giving me bunk readings on resistance and voltage just a couple years after I bought it, with very mild use. I still have it, was going to tear it down to see if I could locate the problem, but never got around to it.I ordered a Klein MM325 yesterday based on your suggestion. I think I've heard the Klein recommended before.
Here...allow me...I have the CL800 and its been a fantastic meter for the price. The MM325 has similar good ratings, feature set is unbeatable at that price, should be a good meter for you. My $90 AMES clamp meter started giving me bunk readings on resistance and voltage just a couple years after I bought it, with very mild use. I still have it, was going to tear it down to see if I could locate the problem, but never got around to it.
Disconnecting the battery means my clock starts at 12:00 when it's reconnected. AFAIK, all my radio presets are gone. That's no giant problem, but an inconvenience. I've never looked into it, but yeah, I guess a pretty serious relay would be involved. I think I saw a video a few weeks ago in which a guy said certain cars' problems can be resolved by removing power from the computer and disconnecting the battery would do that.
Depends. I know that disconnecting a battery on a Toyota Corolla resets most things, at least, as it has to re-learn idle.If his aim to reset the ECU, that won't help Alternatively, could just pull the fuse to reset the ECU.
Klein is the bare minimum and sufficient for car work.I have the CL800 and its been a fantastic meter for the price. The MM325 has similar good ratings, feature set is unbeatable at that price, should be a good meter for you. My $90 AMES clamp meter started giving me bunk readings on resistance and voltage just a couple years after I bought it, with very mild use. I still have it, was going to tear it down to see if I could locate the problem, but never got around to it.
Drives me nuts. I got a new battery installed in my car a couple weeks ago by AAA affiliated local company. Seems to be fine. Using two multimeters, one a Triplett (bought online, around $50) the other Ames (bought from Harbor Freight, not one of their cheapies), either often says 0.00 volts DC.
The Ames MM has V as AC/DC, either. The other I set at 20volts DC max.
Sometimes they do show the voltage. I got one today to say 12.63v for a bit. Or it goes immediately to 0.00 again. I have tried moving the dial back and forth between detents, thinking some contact(s) aren't making a good connection. That's worked sometimes. The other day pulling out the leads and reinserting has fixed the problem. Today, neither fixed the issue. I'm pressing the probes onto the top of the battery posts, which are clean metal and with force, of course.
I have a Fluke MM but am afraid to even try it thinking it may affect the device, but I assume it would work.
Is it that the battery has too much power?
AI is no help.
I had to double take your first sentence there. When I see AAA battery I think of my Eneloops or alkalines. You're talking about car batteries supplied through AAA service! Yes, I did some research a few weeks ago when my battery died. I was debating the AAA supplied battery or going to some outfit around here and decided on AAA. I think it was a good enough decision. Could have saved maybe $40-50 elsewhere but the quality was a question mark. The battery I had before the last one lasted 8 1/2 years! The last one a bit over 3 years. It was a Duracell, I think, but maybe not very good.One, a AAA battery is likely made by East Penn, thus the quality is likely superior to that of Clarios(formerly Johnson Controls)
Two, individuals cells can be tested by peeling on the cap and sticking multimeter leads into the cells. The cells contain acid, so have a base like baking soda to neutralize the leads after "the dip".
A multimeter set to measure volts will not be harmed measuring voltage....use the Fluke. Ames is Harbor Freight, which is only good for kiddie projects.
Besides the ~$30 Kragen bought car battery maintenance charger I have bought a few of the cheapo Harbor Freight gizmos (in the neighborhood of $5). The Kragen is much stronger and is preferred to bring up the charge if low. But if the battery isn't really low, the Harbor Freight will keep the charge up if the car sits unused, which is sometimes the case with my car if I am not playing golf and don't have need to go to Costco or some other task(s) requiring my car.Plain Duracell is probably a lower tier East Penn battery, designed to reach Sam's Club's price point.
That just goes to show how prior experiences can shape interpretation or one's understanding of a passage of writing. Might be a bit too young for you, but Yu-gi-oh Vrains has basically turned many computer terms into trading cards. Quick Launch or Boot Sector Launch will trigger an "understanding" when a geek sees it compared to a non-techie, who would hear it as just weird mumbo jumbo.
I own a BatteryMinder 2012, and I do swear it does have something to maintain or "restore" batteries very well. It was hooked up continuously to a AAA battery I have(got from junkyard) and it kept it fresh over a 2-3 years' worth of trickle charging.
Yeah, the guy who replaced mine a few weeks ago showed me where it was leaking acid!I've come to the conclusion that when you buy a Duracell battery what you're REALLY buying is the electrolyte and the container has a time release mechanism that will let it out at a random time. I've even had some leak while still inside the original packaging.