A Geek's Go Kart

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BoyFreak

Member
May 16, 2001
27
0
0
Originally posted by: WinkOsmosis
Originally posted by: BoyFreak
As far as suspension goes, double A arms are the best way for the front, because it bascially allows independent suspension if you have no shaft connecting the tires. For the back, I used a swing arm, because it was easier and cheaper than having CV shafts, which are telescoping shafts that will allow for independent suspension. However with a CV shaft, you need to get a differential to drive it. Best place for parts is the junk yard. Its cheap and you can try out different ideas.

You won't need telescoping shafts if the shaft joints are the same as the suspension joints.

True, but it would be nice to have a telescoping shaft when you're falling about 10' down, because you really don't want to have the force go directly at the frame or the diff.
 

BadNewsBears

Diamond Member
Dec 14, 2000
3,426
0
0
Originally posted by: kevinthenerd
Originally posted by: ApacheXMD
be sure to add a couple 2 liter soda bottles of compressed air for that forced induction

oh oh oh! and don't forget the rubbing alcohol!



-patchy

The purpose of the aforementioned threads was to possibly uncover better ideas. It worked, too.

1. Instead of using that ghetto* forced induction, I plan instead to mill the heads down to increase the static compression ratio of the motor, giving me constant power without requiring a full tank of air.

2. I've decided against the use of rubbing alcohol. I don't care about engine heat as much as I used to. It'll be cooled in the open air without a whole lot of trouble. That's the only advantage I see to alcohol. The major downside is the lack of power. I can get that from airplane fuel (for PISTON aircraft).

3. Instead of using a ghetto-rigged fan on the bottom of an existing car for ACTIVE ground effects, I've decided instead to play around with PASSIVE ground effects through wings and underbelly design.

* I knew from the start that it was a bad idea, but at the time, I couldn't think of any alternatives.

ALright you dont need aircraft fuel. SHell blue oval 110 is good enough for anything. Buddy uses it in a twin whipple 15:1 pulling truck. No way you could run 15:1 on a lil bitty briggs. Send the head out to me i will port n polish, find some valves I can chop in, mill and seat them. There +2 hp on ur bitty briggs.
 

BoyFreak

Member
May 16, 2001
27
0
0
Originally posted by: Munchies
Use DOM tubing , we use it to make rollbars for extreme 4x4's. I can build you a lil briggs and straton or kohler up to somn crazy. Damn easy to work on, would be fun considerng I build monter 8's all day.
respeckicustoms.com

May I ask what are DOM tubing? I am still an amateur in this field.
 

BadNewsBears

Diamond Member
Dec 14, 2000
3,426
0
0
Originally posted by: BoyFreak
Originally posted by: Munchies

Use DOM tubing , we use it to make rollbars for extreme 4x4's. I can build you a lil briggs and straton or kohler up to somn crazy. Damn easy to work on, would be fun considerng I build monter 8's all day.

respeckicustoms.com



May I ask what are DOM tubing? I am still an amateur in this field.
Yep it's all good. DOM is Drawn Over Mandrel
pics of tubing as rollbars with my buddys company (i build dandc's engines) theres a quote about DOM tuning at bottom http://www.dandcextreme.com/product.asp?pkID=48
 

BoyFreak

Member
May 16, 2001
27
0
0
Originally posted by: Munchies
Originally posted by: BoyFreak
Originally posted by: Munchies

Use DOM tubing , we use it to make rollbars for extreme 4x4's. I can build you a lil briggs and straton or kohler up to somn crazy. Damn easy to work on, would be fun considerng I build monter 8's all day.

respeckicustoms.com



May I ask what are DOM tubing? I am still an amateur in this field.
Yep it's all good. DOM is Drawn Over Mandrel
pics of tubing as rollbars with my buddys company (i build dandc's engines) theres a quote about DOM tuning at bottom http://www.dandcextreme.com/product.asp?pkID=48

Thanks...thats actually pretty tight...wish I had actually gotten into this field of work.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
8
81
Originally posted by: Munchies
Originally posted by: kevinthenerd
Originally posted by: ApacheXMD
be sure to add a couple 2 liter soda bottles of compressed air for that forced induction

oh oh oh! and don't forget the rubbing alcohol!



-patchy

The purpose of the aforementioned threads was to possibly uncover better ideas. It worked, too.

1. Instead of using that ghetto* forced induction, I plan instead to mill the heads down to increase the static compression ratio of the motor, giving me constant power without requiring a full tank of air.

2. I've decided against the use of rubbing alcohol. I don't care about engine heat as much as I used to. It'll be cooled in the open air without a whole lot of trouble. That's the only advantage I see to alcohol. The major downside is the lack of power. I can get that from airplane fuel (for PISTON aircraft).

3. Instead of using a ghetto-rigged fan on the bottom of an existing car for ACTIVE ground effects, I've decided instead to play around with PASSIVE ground effects through wings and underbelly design.

* I knew from the start that it was a bad idea, but at the time, I couldn't think of any alternatives.

ALright you dont need aircraft fuel. SHell blue oval 110 is good enough for anything. Buddy uses it in a twin whipple 15:1 pulling truck. No way you could run 15:1 on a lil bitty briggs. Send the head out to me i will port n polish, find some valves I can chop in, mill and seat them. There +2 hp on ur bitty briggs.
Ah.. you forget that most Briggs are L head engines, valves in block.
 

Farbio

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2000
3,855
0
0
i don't know if you have a university near you or anything, but if you do, head out there, if there is a mechanical engineering program, they almost definitely have an SAE chapter, and one of their big projects each year is building a formula car - essentially a fast ass gocart. i know they would/could be able to offer lots of practical advice to you!
 

BadNewsBears

Diamond Member
Dec 14, 2000
3,426
0
0
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: Munchies
Originally posted by: kevinthenerd
Originally posted by: ApacheXMD
be sure to add a couple 2 liter soda bottles of compressed air for that forced induction

oh oh oh! and don't forget the rubbing alcohol!



-patchy

The purpose of the aforementioned threads was to possibly uncover better ideas. It worked, too.

1. Instead of using that ghetto* forced induction, I plan instead to mill the heads down to increase the static compression ratio of the motor, giving me constant power without requiring a full tank of air.

2. I've decided against the use of rubbing alcohol. I don't care about engine heat as much as I used to. It'll be cooled in the open air without a whole lot of trouble. That's the only advantage I see to alcohol. The major downside is the lack of power. I can get that from airplane fuel (for PISTON aircraft).

3. Instead of using a ghetto-rigged fan on the bottom of an existing car for ACTIVE ground effects, I've decided instead to play around with PASSIVE ground effects through wings and underbelly design.

* I knew from the start that it was a bad idea, but at the time, I couldn't think of any alternatives.

ALright you dont need aircraft fuel. SHell blue oval 110 is good enough for anything. Buddy uses it in a twin whipple 15:1 pulling truck. No way you could run 15:1 on a lil bitty briggs. Send the head out to me i will port n polish, find some valves I can chop in, mill and seat them. There +2 hp on ur bitty briggs.
Ah.. you forget that most Briggs are L head engines, valves in block.

Your right! I ahd small engines almost 7 years ago.
 
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