How do you know the compressor is leaking?
You do not really need to worry about the old oil. The new compressor will either have it factory installed or the tech will put in the correct type and amount when it is installed. Changing the Receiver Dryer is a must. Expansion valve, maybe, but on most cars it will be under the dash, inside the evaporator case. Hard to get to. You must Flush the entire system before the new compressor is installed and started up. This is to prevent any debris from damaging the new compressor and to keep the Warranty on the new compressor valid. Any shop that does AC Charging will have the proper tools to run the flushing, pump down the system to a vacuum, leak check, and recharge to the specified amount and test the performance overall.
I didn't replace anything else nor did I bother evacuating the system.
It works as well as it ever has. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying it. And like I said, I do have a proper set of gauges and both high and low side are within proper pressure ranges. IIRC I charged the approximate capacity of the system.
EDIT: Considering the refrigerant leaked out there shouldn't have been a whole lot of water vapor able to migrate into the system. Plus, I only had the system open for 5 minutes tops. So no, not ideal by any means and definitely shadetree by every definition but it works. I suppose I could get a venturi vacuum pump and do it "properly" but I'm content given it works.
Some A/C recovery machines can add oil, some can't and you need a tool to inject into the lines.
What you're talking about is different. The compressor holds oil to lubricate. The amount depends on the specific compressor but usually between 2-5oz. You have to add this oil directly to the compressor before you install it. Pour it in the low side port, turn the clutch on the front of the pulley to distribute the oil through the compressor.
If you don't add oil directly to the compressor and prime it by turning the clutch by hand, you're gonna burn it up. There should be instructions with the compressor on exactly how much oil to add- usually something saying drain and measure the oil in the old compressor, put that much in the new compressor + a specified amount more.
The only reason you would need to replace the expansion valve/orifice tube and condenser is if the old compressor failed internally and pumped metal shavings through the system. If that is the case you'll see flakes of metal in the oil when you drain the old compressor. If its just a seal leaking then no need. If you haven't replaced it recently you do need to replace the drier regardless.
How is your a/c even working? Are you sure its working? Because I'd be surprised if it were cooling at all. Either your high side pressures are ridiculous or your system is way undercharged. Not to mention not pulling a vacuum leaves moisture in the system which will either corrode it from the inside out, or ice up and damage your compressor.
This is the guy the OP needs to listen to. This thread is a cornucopia of bad advice. I haven't worked with refrigerant systems for decades but I was certified at one point.Some A/C recovery machines can add oil, some can't and you need a tool to inject into the lines.
What you're talking about is different. The compressor holds oil to lubricate. The amount depends on the specific compressor but usually between 2-5oz. You have to add this oil directly to the compressor before you install it. Pour it in the low side port, turn the clutch on the front of the pulley to distribute the oil through the compressor.
If you don't add oil directly to the compressor and prime it by turning the clutch by hand, you're gonna burn it up. There should be instructions with the compressor on exactly how much oil to add- usually something saying drain and measure the oil in the old compressor, put that much in the new compressor + a specified amount more.
The only reason you would need to replace the expansion valve/orifice tube and condenser is if the old compressor failed internally and pumped metal shavings through the system. If that is the case you'll see flakes of metal in the oil when you drain the old compressor. If its just a seal leaking then no need. If you haven't replaced it recently you do need to replace the drier regardless.