Attic Insulation

[nisryus]

So my house is terrible when it comes to thermal control - gets way hot during summer and very cold during winter. I am sure I have to get some of the up-stair windows fix, but when I looked into the attic the other day, the loose-fill fiberglass insulation that was original used had compressed some what. Since they were never that thick, its down to about 6 inches in some area.

Instead of renting a machine to do loose-fill again, I am thinking of putting unfaced roll insulation over the existing ones. I read online that its fine to put unfaced insulation on top of loose-fill. Would a R-19 be enough? In Texas the recommended is R-38 (12 inches thick). I figured with 6 inches of original, I can put 5.5 inches of R-19 on top, which should be enough..

Anyone here ever add additional insulation to their attic?

How Important Is Attic Insulation in Texas? | Homeland Energy Resource Center

homelandenergytx.com

Thats what my attic looks like, lots of bracing throughout the attic, so its not open and easy to move around. In fact, its much more than the picture on that page.

 

[waffleironhead]

Yeah, if you have access and the ability to move around up there. You can definitely roll some unfaced over the blown in. The pain is going to be fitment around any obstructions, IE, making cuts and trimming around truss members.

 

[NutBucket]

IMHO you can't really overdo it. R38 is the minimum required by code.

 

[nisryus]

Man, i checked Lowes and HD around me, they are all out of R-19 unfaced - batt or roll. Unless I buy JM in quantity of 12 or more...

 

[nisryus]

and damn it, the adjuster from my insurance just denied my roof replacement claim.

He said most damage are superficial, cosmetic really.

I had two roofers came and looked, first roofers took tons of pics and they are below:

 

[nisryus]

The adjuster said since there was no leak, I could just let the roof be. Just to feel better, nd add more insulation to make the house feel more comfortable. Ha!

Now i am seriously considering calling Farmers again to request a second adjuster... or switch insurance.

 

[NutBucket]

TBH if it isn't leaking I'd replace the damaged vent cap and call it a day. The missing drip edge is definitely an issue but obviously not valid as an insurance claim. Home insurance is a scam anyway unless your house burns to the ground or something.

 

[Greenman]

First and second pics are construction defects, not covered by insurance.
The hat on the vent pipe is the only damage you actually have, they're around forty bucks at the homie.

 

[Zorba]

Modern fiberglass doesn't compress nearly as bad as the old school stuff from the 70s. Getting it blown in is usually really cheap (not worth doing it yourself) and you can get a lot more insulation, done better than fiber glass bat.

Wood is actually a pretty poor insulator and blown-in will cover the tops of the joists. If you do bats, you want to get to the joist level and then cross them the other way.

 

[nisryus]

Yeah, agreed with everyone that those are not damages that could warrant a roof replacement.

Going to stop by HD and look at vent cap, and probably see how much it will cost to get more blown in insulation.

 

[Zorba]

Yeah, agreed with everyone that those are not damages that could warrant a roof replacement.

Going to stop by HD and look at vent cap, and probably see how much it will cost to get more blown in insulation.

I'd search for local insulation companies. HD will just sub it to someone else. Doing blown in yourself with a rental blower is a PITA and didn't yield as good of results.

 

[nisryus]

Thx Zorba. Yeah, wife specially told me not to do blown in myself. A company I called asked if I want radian barrier. I will consider that, as it will be a package deal.

 

[snoopy7548]

Any idea if the attic floor is air sealed? You'll definitely want the company to seal all wiring/pipe penetrations before adding insulation.

 

[Greenman]

Any idea if the attic floor is air sealed? You'll definitely want the company to seal all wiring/pipe penetrations before adding insulation.

You need to suck out the old insulation before you can do that effectively. Probably cost as much to remove the old stuff as installing the new. Having done it a few times, it's no fun.

 

[nisryus]

Oh good point snoopy, I will have the company check to see of the floor is air sealed.

 

[Zorba]

Thx Zorba. Yeah, wife specially told me not to do blown in myself. A company I called asked if I want radian barrier. I will consider that, as it will be a package deal.

It's been awhile since I've looked into, but it is almost always better to spend the extra money on thicker fiberglass. If you are replacing your roof decking, you can get OSB with a radiant backer on it for not much more and that is worth it. But the radiant blockers they lay on the fiberglass isn't worth it IMHO (having researched it for the EIA 15 years ago), unless it is pretty cheap.

As @snoopy7548 mentioned, if you can go up there with a can of Great Stuff it's worth the effort to fill in any wiring/pipe penetrations you can find.

 

[nisryus]

I spotted checked and saw many wiring and pipes are sealed. (I now realized how difficult it is to work in the attic in Texas)

Several neighbors have recommended a local shop that do blown in insulation, so will give them a call and have them come and give me an estimate.