Basement HT Build - DIY Options?

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Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
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tbqhwy.com
the flatpacks hes talking about had dados, you can actually glue one together with nothing but tape keeping things from falling over. F clamps work fine on them, its all I use
 

JAG87

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2006
3,921
3
76
I agree with Tiamat, but I'd also like to add that a good chunk of noise will come from the ducting in your ceiling. I would say that even if you don't want to double up on the ceiling (it's really the hardest part to do), double sheet rock on the duct is imperative, and relatively easy to do. And lastly, I hope you plan to carpet the floor of that room.

Do it now or forever regret it!
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
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91
its too subjective to tell someone they will liek A over B, you would have to hear them for yourself

and i already had the pic

SEOS 15 sitting on the Tempest 12


Cool

I found this thread too, which shows the whole speaker's difference in size (and some quite positive comments about the difference in sound)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1824938-fusion-15-sentinel-build.html

yea that ceiling really messes with you but as long as you do an AT screen you could get something pretty large in there

Yes, definitely going with AT. I have a few samples headed by way to consider.

as for the marty flatpacks all of them have really similar output and the Mini, micro and cube can be made pretty small

someone prob has a design for a ported 15 as well that could be made smaller and still have the output you want

Yeah, looking at this again, it seems like the main differences are below the 30Hz mark. It seems like mixing the types is not a taboo either, right?

(Say something like some "Cubes" near the seating where room is tighter and "Full" up front?)
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
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Yoyo,
The double drywall/green glue/ rsic clips and hat channel works for both sides of the wall. Also for furnace room access doors, if you spend a bit more money and buy an exterior grade door, those are heavier and block sound much better, plus they come with gasket seals. The biggest point of noise from your furnace room will be through the standard hollow doors with ungasketed floor gaps. Depending on local codes, your mechanical room might need to be vented or circulated, if that is the case, pick a non theater area to do that.

Thanks for the info!

I'm glad it can work on either wide of the wall.
The two exterior walls of the theater room are not planned to have anything on them yet, so I should be able to add that double layer in the future relatively easily.

We have "solid core" doors ordered. I've been thinking about adding some sort of better sealing mod to the doors. Unfortunately we have some non-standard sizes for those doors, so it would be a pain to change it out right now (maybe in the future if the current ones suck?)

Yoyo,
BTW, large clamps cost money lol. I've purchased some for my woodworking hobby and you need a lot of clamps. The F style clamp is inexpensive and is good for clamping items where you have a support wood piece to keep things square (e.g. most subwoofers have internal baffles that provide a square framework). The k style clamp is expensive, but very heavy duty and the jaws are always parallel which allows for even pressure across the entire clamp face (useful for gluing multiple boards together to make one large board like a kitchen table or cutting board). I hope you can borrow clamps from somebody because if you are building something like a flat pack tapped horn or similar, you will need something like 30x 2'-3' wide clamps. Screws can help, but I generally prefer clean designs with no external screws since in the end, it is the glue that provides the joint strength, screws and nails simply act as "a third hand" to keep things in place while the glue sets. This depends on the particular flat pack design though...


Oh, BTW, don't underestimate the noise your projector makes. You may have to make a box for it to sit in and directs the noise out of the theater while providing ample cooling.

I was looking at the harbor freight ones. It didn't seem like I was going to need a boat-load of them based on the guides I'd seen and if I go one-at-a-time for the build.

I'll keep a projector isolation box in mind.

Thank you!
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,475
6,316
126
me personally, i don't have any issues with projector noises. it's directly above my seat but about 2-3 feet behind me. so just a ymmv on that, and you will have plenty of time to test it out before you mount it.

my amp makes more noise than anything, but i can only hear it in very silent scenes in movies, which isn't many, and it doesn't bother me at all because it's just a little bit of white noise. i don't like to close my a/v closet fully when watching a movie because it gets hot up in there. i usually have the doors cracked a little bit.
 

tential

Diamond Member
May 13, 2008
7,348
642
121
me personally, i don't have any issues with projector noises. it's directly above my seat but about 2-3 feet behind me. so just a ymmv on that, and you will have plenty of time to test it out before you mount it.

my amp makes more noise than anything, but i can only hear it in very silent scenes in movies, which isn't many, and it doesn't bother me at all because it's just a little bit of white noise. i don't like to close my a/v closet fully when watching a movie because it gets hot up in there. i usually have the doors cracked a little bit.

My Projector in my bedroom is directly above my head. It's a low hum and I don't notice it most of the time unless I'm thinking about it.

My amp though, I notice it and it's annoying.
I definitely recommend the Crown XLS Drivecore series. Those ones are silent. My inuke? I like it, but will just save up and purchase the Crown XLS next time.

If you're that worried though, I don't know your budget but Sony's "High end" (Under $3000 though) projector is supposed be very quiet. I think it's in the $2500 range? I'm sure if you check AVSForum you'll see it in the projector Under $3k range. I think it's this:
Sony VPL-HW40ES
 
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Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
Beast you still running the ep4000? I believe the one you got from Andrew. If so it's been fan modded. Its normally a lot louder
 

tential

Diamond Member
May 13, 2008
7,348
642
121
Beast you still running the ep4000? I believe the one you got from Andrew. If so it's been fan modded. Its normally a lot louder

I'm too afraid to do a fan mod on my amp. I wanted an EP4000 though.
Are those more sturdy for fan modding compared to the inuke series? I only got the inuke because it was on sale at the time and the EP4000 wasn't.

I'm going to do a fan mod on mine when it's out of warranty.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,475
6,316
126
Beast you still running the ep4000? I believe the one you got from Andrew. If so it's been fan modded. Its normally a lot louder

i'm using an ep4000 but i bought my own and i have not fan modded it. the sound doesn't really bug me enough to mess around with it.
 

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
modding the EP4k is pretty simple, just open it up and cut the old fan out and splice a replacement in. I did it to both of mine in like 5 min

modding the inukes is a lot harder because of how they wired in the fans. but there is a thread about it on AVS
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
50,008
6,308
136


Not much actual lurking happening honestly, heh

Sweet, hang tight, I'll catch up to you in another thousand posts then :awe:

I'm doing a reverse upgade...more of a downgrade. Just got a Sony receiver & the Monoprice 5.1 Premium set (Energy Take Classic clones). My system is too much for my current living situation, and I would rather use a smaller system every night than have to manage my bigger system & really only use it when my neighbor goes out of town

Just a simple 720p LED projector & Roku 3, that's it! Should be fun tho, excited to try out a Sony receiver, especially with their auto-calibration mic setup. I was really disappointed in my last Pioneer, no punch!
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
the flatpacks hes talking about had dados, you can actually glue one together with nothing but tape keeping things from falling over. F clamps work fine on them, its all I use

Is something like this what I would need?

http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-3748.../dp/B00D7A1G8A

I imagine I'd need at least a couple that were 48" if I were to do the "Full Marty" design, right?

(Along with several of the smaller ones that are probably easier to work with when I don't need the full length)
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
I agree with Tiamat, but I'd also like to add that a good chunk of noise will come from the ducting in your ceiling. I would say that even if you don't want to double up on the ceiling (it's really the hardest part to do), double sheet rock on the duct is imperative, and relatively easy to do. And lastly, I hope you plan to carpet the floor of that room.

Do it now or forever regret it!

Carpet is indeed happening.

For the duct work and mechanical room, I have "green glue + another layer" in my pocket to help if it's an issue.


I knew about these sort of techniques when this project was in the planning phases, but dropped the ball on implementing those features due to some other priorities :$
I hope it's not going to be too bad, and if it is, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and fix it :awe:
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
me personally, i don't have any issues with projector noises. it's directly above my seat but about 2-3 feet behind me. so just a ymmv on that, and you will have plenty of time to test it out before you mount it.

my amp makes more noise than anything, but i can only hear it in very silent scenes in movies, which isn't many, and it doesn't bother me at all because it's just a little bit of white noise. i don't like to close my a/v closet fully when watching a movie because it gets hot up in there. i usually have the doors cracked a little bit.

My Projector in my bedroom is directly above my head. It's a low hum and I don't notice it most of the time unless I'm thinking about it.

My amp though, I notice it and it's annoying.
I definitely recommend the Crown XLS Drivecore series. Those ones are silent. My inuke? I like it, but will just save up and purchase the Crown XLS next time.

If you're that worried though, I don't know your budget but Sony's "High end" (Under $3000 though) projector is supposed be very quiet. I think it's in the $2500 range? I'm sure if you check AVSForum you'll see it in the projector Under $3k range. I think it's this:
Sony VPL-HW40ES

I'm not too worried about the projector noise.

I've had my AE4000U for a while and have typically shelf mounted it directly behind the main seating position.

Typically it hasn't seemed to draw attention to itself.


For an inuke 6000, do you think having it on the other side of a wall will drown it out?
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
Sweet, hang tight, I'll catch up to you in another thousand posts then :awe:

I'm doing a reverse upgade...more of a downgrade. Just got a Sony receiver & the Monoprice 5.1 Premium set (Energy Take Classic clones). My system is too much for my current living situation, and I would rather use a smaller system every night than have to manage my bigger system & really only use it when my neighbor goes out of town

Just a simple 720p LED projector & Roku 3, that's it! Should be fun tho, excited to try out a Sony receiver, especially with their auto-calibration mic setup. I was really disappointed in my last Pioneer, no punch!

You don't have to worry about my post count increasing besides what's in these two threads :awe:
 

JAG87

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2006
3,921
3
76
Carpet is indeed happening.

For the duct work and mechanical room, I have "green glue + another layer" in my pocket to help if it's an issue.


I knew about these sort of techniques when this project was in the planning phases, but dropped the ball on implementing those features due to some other priorities :$
I hope it's not going to be too bad, and if it is, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and fix it :awe:

Just try to get as much done before you start setting up furniture and AV equipment. After you set things up and start enjoying it, laziness will get the best of you and you won't even want to think about construction/structural work. As it should be... lol.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
50,008
6,308
136
Just try to get as much done before you start setting up furniture and AV equipment. After you set things up and start enjoying it, laziness will get the best of you and you won't even want to think about construction/structural work. As it should be... lol.

Can confirm :biggrin:

I think anticipation is the strongest form of motivation. When you actually get the stuff in, you tend to lose that development steam.
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
Back from the Hospital with baby #2 =D

Now, for an important question:

Do you think I should get in on the AVSforum UXL-18 group buy (~$400 each) as opposed to UM18-22s or HT18s?

Plan would be either four minimarty subs (if I can fit them) or two minimarty + two martcubes.
 

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
IIRC the difference between the UXL and SI18 in the marty is pretty minimal. If im right on that you would save like 800$ using the SIs, but im not sure, best to ask chal what the difference is as it might play a larger role in the mini/micro
 
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tential

Diamond Member
May 13, 2008
7,348
642
121
I'm not too worried about the projector noise.

I've had my AE4000U for a while and have typically shelf mounted it directly behind the main seating position.

Typically it hasn't seemed to draw attention to itself.


For an inuke 6000, do you think having it on the other side of a wall will drown it out?

I have the inuke 6000, yes it will drown out if it's the other side of a wall. I mean, the fans are loud but I can't imagine it's THAT loud lol. I can only hear mine in the room itself.
 

tential

Diamond Member
May 13, 2008
7,348
642
121
Back from the Hospital with baby #2 =D

Now, for an important question:

Do you think I should get in on the AVSforum UXL-18 group buy (~$400 each) as opposed to UM18-22s or HT18s?

Plan would be either four minimarty subs (if I can fit them) or two minimarty + two martcubes.

Now I'm heavily biased as I already own the Dayton Ultimax 15 but I'd go with the Dayton Ultimax 18s and I'd just get enough of them to satisfy yourself. People have been waiting for that driver for a long time and I see it's in stock now (It's been in stock I'm guessing but it was delayed SO MANY TIMES).
But I'd head over to the DIYSection of Avsforum and get some measurements done for you for some theory crafting.

I really love my Dayton Ultimax 15 though, wish I had the cash to get the 18.
Hell, I wish I had a place to use a Dayton Ultimax 18 (even the 15) without neighbors lol. My New Years Resolution is to rent a house instead of an apartment where I can actually enjoy my speaker system.
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,204
45
91
Thanks guys!

I'll try to get some additional opinions on AVSforum.

Update: After hearing back from a few folks and doing a bit more reading, I went ahead and got in on the ULX group buy. Yay overkill
 
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