Bought a 2600k

[sm625]

I have succumbed. Its not my money though lol. I just get to play with it for a while.

Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129042

Rosewill RP600V2-S-SL 600W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817182032

GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128498

Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz 1155 Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115070

G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231314

OCZ Vertex 2 OCZSSD2-2VTXE90G 2.5" 90GB MLC Internal SSD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227611

Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116718

$1076 D:

Am I missing anything? (Dont need keyboard, mouse, dvd, or platterHDD) No video card.

 

[Idontcare]

Rosewill RP600V2-S-SL 600W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817182032

Personally I would not put $1k worth of electronics in harms way by going with anything less than a known quality PSU. (seasonic or a corsair)

Rosewill (newegg inhouse brand) can't make simple things like USB hubs or eSata docks that work robustly, but at least they don't stand a chance at killing the rest of your gear when they go pop. A PSU certainly can though.

 

[Arachnotronic]

Couple things:

1. Totally agree with Idontcare -- get a real PSU. Antec branded stuff is great from my experience.

2. Don't buy Windows Retail. Buy the OEM versions. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116997

 

[blackened23]

Since you're buying a motherboard you can get the OEM windows 7 for fairly cheap. Are you planning on overclocking? I'd recommend not using the stock cooler. Unless you want to gamble your 1k$ away 6 months from now.... If you're overclocking, cheap is certainly not the way to go when it comes to cooling setup and the PSU.

 

[Fallengod]

Waste of money on the processor if you ask me. I woulda gone with the 2500k and saved a good $100+.

I didnt even realize full retail windows 7 was still that pricey as well. Id never pay that for an OS.

 

[guskline]

Don't mean to be a nitpicker but I will. First get the oem of Windows 7 64 bit from newegg. Unless you MUST have ultimate, I find that Home Premium 64 OEM for @$100 is great. With that much new hardware that clearly qualifies as OEM. With the savings of @$170 do this. Spend @$50 for an Aftermarket CPU heatsink cooler (I used a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ for @$30 but the NocTua at @$80 is the Cadillac. Spend @$50 more for an Antec or Corsair or Seasonic quality PSU (I would spend @$100). I use an Antec TP II 750 PSU.
Who ever uses it they will want to overclock the cpu (it is the 2600k and that k stands for unlocked multiplier). That is a monster chip. I have the 2500k (see below) and it is phenomenal!

 

[sm625]

It is going to be running some stuff that hopefully takes full advantage of 8 threads. That's kinda what I'm testing.

Gotta have ultimate for full rdp experience.

The whole oem licensing system builder saga has gotten so muddy now. Last I knew it had to be "for resale". Has that been ironed out now? Can anyone at any company buy an oem system builder license and install it on a machine they build for use at their own company?

The power supply has better reviews than most power supplies that cost twice as much. For a system with no video card I cant see a reason to go more $$. The review data doesnt seem to support the idea that more $$ is better.

 

[Idontcare]

It is going to be running some stuff that hopefully takes full advantage of 8 threads. That's kinda what I'm testing.

Gotta have ultimate for full rdp experience.

The whole oem licensing system builder saga has gotten so muddy now. Last I knew it had to be "for resale". Has that been ironed out now? Can anyone at any company buy an oem system builder license and install it on a machine they build for use at their own company?

The power supply has better reviews than most power supplies that cost twice as much. For a system with no video card I cant see a reason to go more $$. The review data doesnt seem to support the idea that more $$ is better.

I personally got hosed by Newegg and Microsoft over my purchase of an OEM license for Win7 Ult x64.

Legally, technically, no you aren't supposed to be buying OEM MS software if you aren't a licensed (as in legit business license, etc) reseller.

Newegg will sell it to you. Microsoft will validate it. But at any time Microsoft can elect to unvalidate (invalidate) your previously validated OEM license and you are left with a $165 DVD that can't be activated.

I can vouch for this being the case from first-hand experience. Microsoft invalidated my OEM version after it being activated and validated for a full year. I went through customer support for weeks and they kept coming back to this.

Also be aware that there are two kinds of "retail" or "non-OEM" versions. There's the full retail version which is transferable across computers (replace your computer and still use your $300 OS) and then there is the non-full version which is still retail but you can't install it on anything but the mobo that you originally activated it with.

So, you can definitely buy OEM, and activate it, and be good for a year (or more) but it is very much a gamble as to if and when the microsoft validators catch up to you and unvalidate your previously validated install.

I would not have believed it if it had not happened to me, but it did, so I caution you is all.

Regarding the PSU...if you are going by user reviews then you are going to get what you pay for. There is no free lunch, the rosewill engineers did not discover some hitherto unknown cache of high spec capacitors and vrm's that were being sold for cheap. The PSU is half the price for a reason. If you can't verify by good data review (like from Johnny guru, etc) then you are very much putting good electronics into jeopardy by going with a discount PSU.

Gray market products exist, knock-off products exist, you will get what you pay for.

 

[blackened23]

I personally got hosed by Newegg and Microsoft over my purchase of an OEM license for Win7 Ult x64.

Legally, technically, no you aren't supposed to be buying OEM MS software if you aren't a licensed (as in legit business license, etc) reseller.

Newegg will sell it to you. Microsoft will validate it. But at any time Microsoft can elect to unvalidate (invalidate) your previously validated OEM license and you are left with a $165 DVD that can't be activated.

I can vouch for this being the case from first-hand experience. Microsoft invalidated my OEM version after it being activated and validated for a full year. I went through customer support for weeks and they kept coming back to this.

Also be aware that there are two kinds of "retail" or "non-OEM" versions. There's the full retail version which is transferable across computers (replace your computer and still use your $300 OS) and then there is the non-full version which is still retail but you can't install it on anything but the mobo that you originally activated it with.

So, you can definitely buy OEM, and activate it, and be good for a year (or more) but it is very much a gamble as to if and when the microsoft validators catch up to you and unvalidate your previously validated install.

I would not have believed it if it had not happened to me, but it did, so I caution you is all.

Regarding the PSU...if you are going by user reviews then you are going to get what you pay for. There is no free lunch, the rosewill engineers did not discover some hitherto unknown cache of high spec capacitors and vrm's that were being sold for cheap. The PSU is half the price for a reason. If you can't verify by good data review (like from Johnny guru, etc) then you are very much putting good electronics into jeopardy by going with a discount PSU.

Gray market products exist, knock-off products exist, you will get what you pay for.

Hmm, my copy of win7 x64 oem required something like 3 re-installations due to hardware upgrades and new motherboards and it eventually got invalidated. I then called their automated 800 number, put in my serial, and answered all of the questions the way you're "supposed" to and it got reactivated. The online windows activation detects a new motherboard and automatically thinks that you're installing onto a 2nd system, and raises a red flag. When you get to your desktop your windows key will be auto invalidated. However, If you call the automated system and specifiy that you did not install windows on more than 1 system, your key should be re-activated. At least it has for me, several times.

How did you get invalidated specifically? Lots of reinstalls? I'm sympathetic though, trying to ever actually speak to someone at microsoft is a complete pain in the ass. I kept trying to reach an agent to explain the situation, and then realized that if I just tell the automated system what it wants to hear that i'd be good to go.

Edit: I also have to agree about PSU's. Cooling and PSU's are 2 things i've learned over the years to NEVER go cheap on...and in general i'm a pretty thrifty shopper. The hassle of coming home to a computer that won't boot is far too annoying.

 

[toyota]

Idontcare, I have never heard of any of those OS issues before. I used oem Vista on my last pc for 2 years with at least 3 or 4 re installations and no issues at all.

also what is this about two different retail versions? how do you tell because again I have never heard of this before? my $30(edu discount) retail version of 7 Pro 64 bit was not an issue when installing it on this new pc after it being on my previous pc for about a year.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I personally got hosed by Newegg and Microsoft over my purchase of an OEM license for Win7 Ult x64.

I can vouch for this being the case from first-hand experience. Microsoft invalidated my OEM version after it being activated and validated for a full year. I went through customer support for weeks and they kept coming back to this.

That's very strange.

Also be aware that there are two kinds of "retail" or "non-OEM" versions. There's the full retail version which is transferable across computers (replace your computer and still use your $300 OS) and then there is the non-full version which is still retail but you can't install it on anything but the mobo that you originally activated it with.

This is not true. There are only two retail versions, Full Retail, and Upgrade Retail. BOTH of them can be transferred between computers, as per the license agreement. I have done that countless times. It's a PITA to transfer, you have to call MS, but I haven't been refused yet.

So, you can definitely buy OEM, and activate it, and be good for a year (or more) but it is very much a gamble as to if and when the microsoft validators catch up to you and unvalidate your previously validated install.

You really think that MS cares if you are a reseller or not? They don't. What happened to you was strange. Sure your key wasn't captured by spyware and spread all over the darkweb? And that's why they invalidated it?

 

[blackened23]

You really think that MS cares if you are a reseller or not? They don't. What happened to you was strange. Sure your key wasn't captured by spyware and spread all over the darkweb? And that's why they invalidated it?

Agreed, something is amiss - someone may have gotten your key. You will go through a hassle if you reinstall on a 2nd motherboard, however as long as you tell the automated microsoft authentication system that you're not installing on more than 1 computer at any given time, you are good to go. As I mentioned above I have the oem win7 x64 from newegg, reinstalled 3x on new motherboards, and have not had any issues.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Agreed, something is amiss - someone may have gotten your key. You will go through a hassle if you reinstall on a 2nd motherboard, however as long as you tell the automated microsoft authentication system that you're not installing on more than 1 computer at any given time, you are good to go. As I mentioned above I have the oem win7 x64 from newegg, reinstalled 3x on new motherboards, and have not had any issues.

I agree with Larry, too. But I hear "rumors." Certain Windows "User" forums have a very persnickity attitude about purchase and use of OEM versions. Other sources suggest that MS couldn't care less, but you get what you pay for in tech-support, and the OEM version becomes permanently hinged to your motherboard. In my case, with an OEM VISTA license, I found it convenient to purchase a second, identical motherboard to my first, which had gone back to the manufacturer under RMA. I then encountered the problem of activation, called the 1-800 number, explained to the MS tech-rep what had happened. She gave me a "pass" and assisted in helping me re-activate.

I don't think MS has the time or inclination to ferret out every "system builder" who isn't shipping large inventories of OEM machines for "resale." I don't think they're inclined to invalidate your OEM activation if you purchased the OEM version with "new hardware" or used it to build a "new computer." Why would it matter to them whether you're building one, ten, twenty or a thousand "new computers?" If you build a "new" computer, are you a "system builder?" So why would MS stand idly by while NewEgg, DiscountMountain, Directron and several other resellers offer the OEM versions to customers?

Your biggest risk would depend on your own expertise and independent sources for solving OS-related problems, since you aren't going to get tech-support from MS without paying for it. Retail versions allow you to obtain free support assistance, and they allow you to re-install the OS on another computer provided you uninstall it from the previous one.

 

[BlueBlazer]

Personally I would not put $1k worth of electronics in harms way by going with anything less than a known quality PSU. (seasonic or a corsair)

Rosewill (newegg inhouse brand) can't make simple things like USB hubs or eSata docks that work robustly, but at least they don't stand a chance at killing the rest of your gear when they go pop. A PSU certainly can though.

I concur, buy a better PSU. Corsair (and Antec) don't make their own PSUs though (usually come from OEMs like Seasonic and Channel Well Technologies). Another candidate would be Fortron Source Power (aka "FSP", whom are OEM for brands like Silverstone).

 

[mrSHEiK124]

The power supply you picked is garbage, but the people telling you to buy a $100 unit are pushing too far to the other extreme. Did you guys even look at the damn build? He's using the onboard graphics and an SSD, a $100 PSU is overkill by any means for this build - it is not security, insurance, or peace of mind, only overkill.

This 520W Antec will do nicely, and will reliably handle anything all the way up to a GTX 560 Ti, should you decide to add it/start gaming. It will definitely handle a nice overclock.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371047

If you want a modular power supply, this one will do nicely. Don't count on receiving the rebate from OCZ though - I always have [2 for 2, one PSU, one RAM way back in the day] but people seem to love complaining about OCZ rebates.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341016

 

[grkM3]

I went with this psu for my build.Its a little more but there is a 10% coupon and a 25 dollar rebate.

its 850watt and will cost you 95 bucks,about 40 more than your pick and 5x better

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153106

 

[mrSHEiK124]

I went with this psu for my build.Its a little more but there is a 10% coupon and a 25 dollar rebate.

its 850watt and will cost you 95 bucks,about 40 more than your pick and 5x better

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153106

And 10 times as useless. Look at his build. One SSD. No optical drive. NO GRAPHICS CARD. Even with the 520W PSU he won't be approaching 50% load at full blast. You are all fools.

 

[grkM3]

And 10 times as useless. Look at his build. One SSD. No optical drive. NO GRAPHICS CARD. Even with the 520W PSU he won't be approaching 50% load at full blast. You are all fools.

For 35 he can future proof his psu that can run 3 570s

I made that mistake with a 500watt psu thinking ill never need more and not even 5 months after I went sli and had to get a new psu.

where in his post does he say he is trying to build it the cheapest way? for 35-40 bucks more he can have a psu that will last him a long time.

in a year or so you will be able to pick up a couple 570s for cheap and then he will have to upgrade his psu again.

 

[blackened23]

And 10 times as useless. Look at his build. One SSD. No optical drive. NO GRAPHICS CARD. Even with the 520W PSU he won't be approaching 50% load at full blast. You are all fools.

#1) Unless he overclocks or plays a lot of games, overclocked GPU's have tremendous power draw. My power spikes quite a bit when my 6970 is overclocked / at full GPU load.

#2) If he wants a good gaming system futureproofing as much as possible is a good idea. If he wants to upgrade to sli or hell get a better GPU a 750W+ power supply is a good investment

#3) Every time i've tried going cheap on PSU's I was burned. People will do what they want but my recommendation is to NOT GO CHEAP OR SMALL on the PSU.

If he's not playing games, and I can't discern from the original post whether that is the case or not. Certainly if he's just doing windows tasks, that PSU might be ok. But for overclocking/gaming, i'd say no.

 

[mrSHEiK124]

OP! For the love of whomever that PC is for, don't saddle them with that OCZ SSD - yeah it's faster, but the possible headache is NOT WORTH IT. SandForce/OCZ need to figure their s*** out.

Save some cash, get a reliable V100+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820139638

Lose some space, get the Intel 320
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820167047

FAST - Crucial M4. You'll have to decide between 64 GB and 128 GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148441
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148442

For 35 he can future proof his psu that can run 3 570s

I made that mistake with a 500watt psu thinking ill never need more and not even 5 months after I went sli and had to get a new psu.

where in his post does he say he is trying to build it the cheapest way? for 35-40 bucks more he can have a psu that will last him a long time.

in a year or so you will be able to pick up a couple 570s for cheap and then he will have to upgrade his psu again.

Well that's no fun - I usually have a good idea about what I'm doing with my PC when I build it. Given that you bought the UD7, you don't seem to have too much of a problem grossly over-shooting the price/performance curve, or simply have more money to spend on this hobby than I do, and that's OK. I don't assume that about other people.

The OP had a 600W [admittedly a horrible one] PSU in his build - and professed to not needing an optical drive, video card, or mechanical drive. And I tend to buy things when I need them - "future-proofing" is the #1 reason people spend too much money on electronics, you do know it's all worthless in 3-4 year's time, right? OP - don't waste your money unless you know you'll use it. Something people telling you to overshoot on PSU's aren't accounting for, you'll get dinged in your wallet twice - once for buying something twice as expensive as what you need, and the second time on your electric bill [minor, but true]. A power supply is most efficient at around 50% load, that 520W unit will allow you to stay pretty close to 50% load, a lot under it actually, even with a couple of years of capacitor wear. Asides from "possibly needing" triple SLI [seriously?] can anyone prove me wrong?

EDIT: Also, good job trying to buy a quality PSU and getting an 850W Thermaltake. I'm more comfortable spending the same [or significantly less!] amount of money on a 600-650W Antec, Corsair, or Seasonic, since at the end of the day they're all probably Seasonics. Got an 850W LEPA [Enermax] for $50 AR. That's an 850W that's worth it. 500W XFX for $35 AR - worth it.

 

[mrSHEiK124]

#1) Unless he overclocks or plays a lot of games, overclocked GPU's have tremendous power draw. My power spikes quite a bit when my 6970 is overclocked / at full GPU load.

#2) If he wants a good gaming system futureproofing as much as possible is a good idea. If he wants to upgrade to sli or hell get a better GPU a 750W+ power supply is a good investment

#3) Every time i've tried going cheap on PSU's I was burned. People will do what they want but my recommendation is to NOT GO CHEAP OR SMALL on the PSU.

If he's not playing games, and I can't discern from the original post whether that is the case or not. Certainly if he's just doing windows tasks, that PSU might be ok. But for overclocking/gaming, i'd say no.

Why couldn't you discern it from the original post? There is no video card, and it's actually mentioned explicitly. D:

The important thing to consider with a PSU is quality. I used a 620W Corsair HX in my last build (Q9550) that was 24/7 balls to the wall [Folding@Home] for 3 years straight. Overclocked GTX260. Overclocked Q9550. 6 hard drives, accumulated through various sales and Black Fridays. A couple of add-in cards. The GTX260 blew itself up [], one hard drive failed [WD...], but the PSU kept going. And still is with it's new owner, same overclock. People like you told me to buy an 850W unit and I told them off.

New build, 2600k, overclocked GTX570, and guess what? GTX 570, overclocked. 2600k @ 4.6 GHz. Draw at the wall when I load it most [GPU+CPU folding] is 380W. Do you want to tell me why I need an 800W power supply? Other than wasting money.

 

[sm625]

What is wrong with Vertex 2? I thought it was the 3 that still has teething issues. I have bought 3 ocz drives and none of them have let me down yet.

 

[grkM3]

my 2600k at 5.2ghz pulls 140-150 watts on its own and a overclocked 570 pulls way over 200watts.

ask me how I know? lol my system would just straight up shut off in the middle of a high gpu load gaming with a 500watt psu.

you even say it in your own post(you still have your corsair psu)We are talking about spending 95 bucks on a psu that can be used for the next 5 years.

I dont have the ud7 any more,that board is a pos and went back to an asus p67 MIVE.I should update my sig.

If the 850 watt psu was 200 bucks I can see your point but we are talking about 35 dollars more than what you told him to buy.

just becasue a psu is 850watts dosnt mean its drawing 850watts all the time,these psus will be in there efficiency range 90% of the time enless you have 3 way sli and game all the time.

Im running the corsair f 120 ssd and just got the corsair gt 120 and there are working fine.I think most of the bugs have been worked out in there latest firmware and I have no issues with both my drives.

 

[mrSHEiK124]

What is wrong with Vertex 2? I thought it was the 3 that still has teething issues. I have bought 3 ocz drives and none of them have let me down yet.

I'm not entirely sure, but I've seen enough whining here and on other boards to know I'd rather have the peace of mind of a more reliable SSD. The Intel 8 MB bug is no longer an issue [firmware update] although between 4 Intel SSDs I never once came across it.

If you trust 'em, go for it!

 

[mrSHEiK124]

my 2600k at 5.2ghz pulls 140-150 watts on its own and a overclocked 570 pulls way over 200watts.

ask me how I know? lol my system would just straight up shut off in the middle of a high gpu load gaming with a 500watt psu.

you even say it in your own post(you still have your corsair psu)We are talking about spending 95 bucks on a psu that can be used for the next 5 years.

I dont have the ud7 any more,that board is a pos and went back to an asus p67 MIVE.I should update my sig.

If the 850 watt psu was 200 bucks I can see your point but we are talking about 35 dollars more than what you told him to buy.

just becasue a psu is 850watts dosnt mean its drawing 850watts all the time,these psus will be in there efficiency range 90% of the time enless you have 3 way sli and game all the time.

Im running the corsair f 120 ssd and just got the corsair gt 120 and there are working fine.I think most of the bugs have been worked out in there latest firmware and I have no issues with both my drives.

The OP still hasn't mentioned the possibility of adding a discrete GPU OR overclocking OR gaming - only intending to use an 8 threaded application. So 90W maximum draw on the CPU, or 130 if he decides to overclock [5.2? How'd you manage that? Water I assume?] Yes I still have my Corsair PSU, but my Corsair PSU was ~$90 because it's modular. And it's a Corsair. Jeez.

And you are wrong on efficiency. Here, do some reading: http://www.anandtech.com/show/2624/3 . That's an old article but it's the quickest thing I could find. Your suggestions will have the OP pretty much outside the efficiency curve.

And even if we were to assume the OP needed the "insurance" of 4x more wattage than he'll ever use, he could do better than for $100.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341018
$60 AR 700W OCZ. Meh.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371049
$70 AR 750W Antec. I think this is a Seasonic unit. Good stuff.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703027
$89 AR 750W PCP&C Silencer II. F***ing PCP&C, 7 year warranty.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703030
$99 AR 760W PCP&C Silencer. Again, PCP&C!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817194084
$109 AR 700W LEPA [Enermax]. 80 Plus Gold. Fully modular.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139009
$120 AR 850W Corsair.