[Build Log] NZXT H440 "Chaos"

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Subyman

Moderator <br> VC&G Forum
Mar 18, 2005
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I've used MDPC and Lutro sleeving. MDPC is much better. There is nothing better, it is in a league of its own. Lutro stuff looks fine in pictures, but it doesn't stiffen the cable as much as MDPC. If you properly sleeve a cable in MDPC you can hold it horizontal and it will stay straight. Bend it and it will keep the shape you bend it to. It is pretty amazing stuff. MDPC is expensive and it ships from Germany so it takes a bit of time to get, but I think its worth the wait. You could get his bulk black sleeving and an accent color for a decent price. That's plenty to do an entire build and have a lot of black left over for later.
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I've used MDPC and Lutro sleeving. MDPC is much better. There is nothing better, it is in a league of its own. Lutro stuff looks fine in pictures, but it doesn't stiffen the cable as much as MDPC. If you properly sleeve a cable in MDPC you can hold it horizontal and it will stay straight. Bend it and it will keep the shape you bend it to. It is pretty amazing stuff. MDPC is expensive and it ships from Germany so it takes a bit of time to get, but I think its worth the wait. You could get his bulk black sleeving and an accent color for a decent price. That's plenty to do an entire build and have a lot of black left over for later.

Thanks for the info...I have been looking at that lately as a potential replacement.

edit: The Lutro0 sleeving shipped out on Saturday...should be able to start sleeving next weekend. Project has really slowed down.
 
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Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I've completed the metal work on the inside of the case, but I can't make my mind up if I should paint the rads white to contrast the interior, which will be visible through the peep hole...thoughts?

The black on black just hides everything. I'm pretty much thinking that the rad itself should be white.

 

krnmastersgt

Platinum Member
Jan 10, 2008
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Yeah a contrasting pattern or color would make it pop a bit better, improve the overall aesthetic of the case. How much of that shows through the side panel though? If it barely peeks out behind the side panel might not make much difference, without the side panel something to contrast would help though.
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Yeah a contrasting pattern or color would make it pop a bit better, improve the overall aesthetic of the case. How much of that shows through the side panel though? If it barely peeks out behind the side panel might not make much difference, without the side panel something to contrast would help though.

I'm planning on modding the side window to include the "peak-a-boo" area, so I'm thinking it would make a big difference.
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I wanted to show a little trick I use to warm up my paint as it has always worked for me. The nozzle just fits through the top allowing the entire can to be immersed in hot water:



I was also applying my final coat of paint and "phlat......." I hate aerosol cans!



Now I get to sand and prep everything all over again.....
 

SimsReaper

Member
Feb 21, 2014
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LCD hole? Haha. Great minds think alike? I am planning to put a fluid loop temp display into the psu cover if possible. It looks like they should fit nicely and still be visible through the window. Am I close?
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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LCD hole? Haha. Great minds think alike? I am planning to put a fluid loop temp display into the psu cover if possible. It looks like they should fit nicely and still be visible through the window. Am I close?

Yep! Depth is an issue and grinding will be involved. If the back can be taken off, it will fit without cutting up the psu cover, hence my comment about static electricity. I even googled the subject, and it appears everyone has the same problem with those devices.

 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Sleeving came in last night...now I can start this and wait for better weather to paint.



I also received some presents from NZXT. I told them my front 120's had a "tick" sound when they were running, and they sent me 3 new ones. I also mentioned that my NZXT illuminated bezel had stripped screw holes, and they sent me a new front!



I have to start putting some of this stuff up for sale...my work room is getting really small!!!
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Almost ready to primer...should only take another couple of hours. Powder coating is a real pain in the A$$ to get off!



What about green instead of white....hmmmmmmmmm
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I have the first two primer coats on. A day to dry and sand and then final paint. I also had some time to start laying out the wiring scheme. The main cables will be a tri-color theme with accents of white. The green matches my new tubing perfectly, I'm very happy.



edit: Final coats of primer applied...it's getting there.

 
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Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Had a little time to tape up the rads for painting. I'll be able to shoot the psu cover and both rads at the same time this week as we have a warming trend coming!!!

 
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Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Completed some wiring...not sure if I'm going to stay with this theme as I think it could use more white...but I was planning on doing the 6pin PCI-e in white/green. Going to have to fix a couple of the wires as the shrink moved...





Also had a chance to get the primer on both rads.

 
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krnmastersgt

Platinum Member
Jan 10, 2008
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I think more white would look better for your sleeving since it's the primary color for your build. That being said I was really confused by the picture till I saw that 1 of the cables isn't pinned in and the color scheme didn't seem patterned or symmetrical
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I think more white would look better for your sleeving since it's the primary color for your build. That being said I was really confused by the picture till I saw that 1 of the cables isn't pinned in and the color scheme didn't seem patterned or symmetrical

That's what I was thinking...The hard thing is coming up with a design that hasn't been done yet.
 
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Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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After hours of playing with different color combinations, and I do mean hours...I've decided to forgo the tri-color scheme and go with a dual-color. The black was just too bold in any fashion for my liking. I will use it for the background wires that I want to blend in:



I also finished the rads and they are currently being cleaned in the kitchen. Hope to have that completed tonight so that I can start prepping the MB and wiring and finish the basic assembly of the case:



I'm also considering painting the gpu backplanes white...that idea is still in the works:
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Time for Final clearance checks and configuration of the case. First, install PSU Cover after a few days of drying:



Then test mount the top rad with fans in push:



Hang it and a gaze at it's beauty:



Then drop in front rad for clearance check:



I'm still working on dual 360's that will work with push as this had the best airflow, regardless of fan. If I can't mount and route tubing, I will have to go with my initial configuration of push exhaust on both. That's why we double check before final assembly! Tubing is going to be a pain in the A$$.....

edit: While I was playing with the fans and mounting configurations, I decided to power both sets on each rad to see how they pushed air in the case. I'm saddened by the results as the NB e-loops "load" down in higher static pressure configurations. You can hear them slow down a good bit, I even had my wife come up and listen and she agreed. Additionally, the GT 14's pushed more air in pull or push. I even pulled the rads back out of the case to make sure it wasn't the top and front panels that were causing the problem. Same results but not as sever as when they were mounted in the case with the covers on. I just love the NB e-loops and how they look. The Corsair AP's pushed the most air, but they are by far the loudest...lots of motor noise...too bad also as I think they are really nice fans.

Looks like I'll have some new fans for sale.

 
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krnmastersgt

Platinum Member
Jan 10, 2008
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You don't even want to know how many extra fans I have from changing the design or fans I wanted to use in my current build lol... I really need to sell my extra parts off, probably sitting on a decent chunk of cash from them.

That said what fan configuration are you going to be running? Seems like the highest pressure set up you could do is push-pull front intake and then a top push exhaust.

I have to ask since I'm such a fan of the heatshrinkless look, is there a reason you decided to use the heatshrink? Also how difficult were the pins in your de-pinning process? I've been having a hell of a time working on some of the cables on my new PSU and even broke my atx pin remover
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
2,532
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You don't even want to know how many extra fans I have from changing the design or fans I wanted to use in my current build lol... I really need to sell my extra parts off, probably sitting on a decent chunk of cash from them.

That said what fan configuration are you going to be running? Seems like the highest pressure set up you could do is push-pull front intake and then a top push exhaust.

I have to ask since I'm such a fan of the heatshrinkless look, is there a reason you decided to use the heatshrink? Also how difficult were the pins in your de-pinning process? I've been having a hell of a time working on some of the cables on my new PSU and even broke my atx pin remover

I'm currently playing with push intake up front and a push intake on top. Push/Pull is not an option for me as I'm running a 45mm rad and there would be no space left in the cage area. Maximum depth is 150 mm, with 140 being safe. Push/Pull would have cost me 90+mm and my res is 63mm round and 270mm tall.

I also played around with both configurations and the push intake produced a noticeably lower amount of static loading on the fans, hence more air flow. Additionally, I'm playing with the idea of modding the front and top covers to allow for additional air which really benefits a intake scenario.

As for the heatshrinkless vs heatshrink on my wiring, I'm still playing with that also as I'm waiting for the final shipment of pins and sleeving from LutroO. Those were just 6" lengths of loom to see what it looked like. I also plan on using white wire for the white looms to keep it bright. As for removal of the pins, what a pain in the A$$...some came right out but most I had to really tug on to the point I thought I was going to destroy the pin and/or connector! I will say that the pin remover from LutroO is the best I've ever used...he even hardens the ends with heat to make them stronger!

The front rad mounted for final clearance checks and tubing:



Inside view with the inlet/outlet ports on the bottom:

 
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Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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Here is the current configuration...but this requires I loose the bottom area where I was planning on putting my 1TB Raptor

Looking up:



Front/Top Clearance:



Top Fans:



Total Case Layout:

 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
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I was able to finish the front rad and install the plumbing:



Then came the fitting into the case. As you can see (sorry for the bad photos but the gloss white really messes up the auto-focus) there isn't much room to spare, 2~3mm on top:



and 5~7 between the res and the psu cover:



All in all it was a good day and I hope to start the plumbing between the rads tomorrow.

 

krnmastersgt

Platinum Member
Jan 10, 2008
2,873
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Build is coming together very nicely :thumbsup:

What are/where'd you get those little tabs for mounting the res to the rad? Been having a hard time figuring out how to mount my res without drilling some holes into the back plate of the case.
 

Tweakin

Platinum Member
Feb 7, 2000
2,532
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71
Build is coming together very nicely :thumbsup:

What are/where'd you get those little tabs for mounting the res to the rad? Been having a hard time figuring out how to mount my res without drilling some holes into the back plate of the case.

They are Bitspower mounts. It makes life much nicer in a small case!
 
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