Case set up suggestions

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smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
i wish case makers would make a case which would allow me to use a HVAC filter on it!!!

is that too much to ask? instead we have to use a micro mesh which doesnt work all the time as very small dust can still pass though them.

And our pc is moving air all the time... so WHY NOT MAKE a air filter with it anyhow and kill 2 birds with 1 stone, while having a super clean PC..

oh why oh why???
why cant a case vendor just listen to what people what... :\


Hence why i recommended it to the OP.
The HVAC air filters on inlet will keep his PC super clean... as it does also trap micro dust.
And it will also filter his air in his room, cuz the PC does move air ALL THE TIME.

I never thought of using an HVAC filter, but I will for sure be adding that to mine now!

Case vendors will end up being a thing of the past once we can 3D print polycarbonates or some harder material for cheap. They had better hope people are willing to pay for the designs required for the machine to run!
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
I am looking for some help here locating a piece of hardware that is similar or that will produce the same desired results. The piece is for my swivel table for the mouse pad. I am trying to figure out what/how to mount this. I have looked at options for the lazy susan idea but a lot of them are 360 round rotating devices as apposed to a corner mounted rotating piece. Here is what I am going for.







The piece only needs to rotate 270 degree approx. and needs to be able to support my arm when resting to move the mouse. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
21,034
3,516
126
Thanks for the comps!

I am using an HVAC filter just for you. Finding the right size....well I think I might have to use your link that you gave. I have been to 4 different stores so far and notta has one the size I need.

Worked on the base supports and sanding what I had glued yesterday. It turned out really well, I was pleasantly surprised. Going to have to start testing some stains soon or I will be done before you know it.

Oh, I got my replacement bit in today. Didn't get to use it but at least I am a go when I need it.

they sell them at all homedepot / lowes / orchard supply.

:removed to preserve op's thread:
 
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smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
jbombo, you are spectacular in SketchUp. I am only doing basic stuff and it is nowhere near as good as yours. I am also having a problem actually coming up with a good design, but that is my problem.
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
jbombo, you are spectacular in SketchUp. I am only doing basic stuff and it is nowhere near as good as yours. I am also having a problem actually coming up with a good design, but that is my problem.

Thanks bro. Don't give up on trying different things. I went through so many different models before I ended up with the one I am building. Youtube is your friend here. I learned a lot from what I know off of tutorials and tips.

My biggest tip I can pass on to you is make every piece an individual component first. If you have a shelf make sure you make it a component with a name then you are able to place it anywhere without blending it with the rest of your model. Also you can easily pick it out when you want to alter it.

Also plan for joints. I didn't do this at first. It seems like a simple idea but in sketchup everything is held up by software imaginary glue. Make sure you plan for joints, mortises, miters, and grooves, which means add about a 1/4" to an 1/2" inch at any point in your model that will require jointing or gluing.

Other than that, start basic. Get your shape down then go from there. Here is what I started with in my first mock up...



and this is what I ended up with...





With mods still added on to those that are pictured earlier in the thread.

Good luck man! If you have any questions don't hesitate to PM me.
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
Back on the update trail: I was stumped for a few days. I made the mistake of tightening my router collet nut too tight and broke the wrench that came with the router. Searched high and low all over town for a 21 mm wrench that was thin enough for the nut but strong enough for the job w/o breaking. Finally I went to some forums and found a nice woodworking website that had this that came in yesterday. So needless to say I only had a day and a half worth of work to show...



On top of having to wait for the wrench to come in I was going over my model and noticed that I had not planned for joints/grooves in my shelving area. So I went back and redesigned with those things and had to salvage some pieces and go purchase some more baltic birch plywood so I would have the right sizes. I got the base cut and grooved as well as starting on the shelves for the drawers to sit on. During my wait for the wrench I did a ton of sanding....and more sanding. My basement was a haze and I took my shop vac and just walked around with it sucking up air lol.

Here you can see on the right that I have sanded versus the left joint which I haven't. B/c of my novice mistakes in woodworking some of the joints are smidge off and I have to level them out by using my old trusty palm sander. (which if used for a long period of time, kills your arm)


here it is with right side completed


Completely sanded


Base for the Maple supports


1st of 4 shelves for drawer support


We'll see how far I get on the desk this week. I have yet to play BF4 and I'm waiting till I finish this.

Oh and the remodel pic
 
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aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
21,034
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i assume ur gona stain the wood right?
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
Yea the grain on the maple is sick. So I'm going to try some different combos this week to match the leopard wood
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
21,034
3,516
126
yeah im curious to see what stain color you decided on also.

My dream desk would have a thin sheet of granite on top.

I want a stone top desk. :\

But i know it would cost a LOT of money for that...
 

smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
yeah im curious to see what stain color you decided on also.

My dream desk would have a thin sheet of granite on top.

I want a stone top desk. :\

But i know it would cost a LOT of money for that...

I don't think a granite top would be THAT expensive. You'd have to get it cut just right though, there ain't no redos on that. I think Marble is a bit less expensive, if you'd prefer that route. Marble is a bit less durable and can be damaged with certain cleaners, but that shouldn't be an issue as a desk.

Also, they are both extremely heavy. I had a granite pool table growing up and when we moved, we had to leave it in the house. There was no way we could move it.
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
It's been a good week since I've been able to update on the desk build. I've gotten almost no where since we last spoke, or at least it seems that way. I have been doing a lot of fine tuning and sanding. Putting pieces together to see if they fit then doing small adjustments along the way. Whether that is sanding a piece or edge or building up with some wood epoxy. Over the next few posts you will see some of the down sides in being a novice wood worker with little to no experience working with sup par tools and only the internet to assist. The follow may make you laugh, it might even make you cry but what ever happens know that no one was seriously injured during the events pictured.

So i cut tenon edges for all the drawer supports which on plywood wasn't too bad. The thing I have noticed after working with plywood is that it warps really easily and really quickly down in a basement. The constant changing of temp down there is not good for the plywood.



Drawer Supports mortises:


Fitting the bottom drawer support into base support that will hold the maple pieces. Funny story. The edge of this bit I was using was just a quarter of an inch too short so to make up the difference I loosened the collet nut on my router to extend the bit out... well this was not smart. As I was guiding my piece through the router i began to see smoke and with that the edges of the wood started turning yellow. I quickly shut off the router and noticed that the bit had come loose halfway through the cut and was digging into the wood way further than I needed. In turn (no pun intended) it caused the cut to go all the way to the base of the bit and start some tremendous friction which started burning my wood. I couldn't get a shot of the smoke cloud but i did have to open a window.

Hole too deep with burnt chips everywhere:


Said burnt bit:


Finger sanding the corner groove I've cut for the supports...this makes your fingers raw.


Had to make a slight adjustment on the height of one of the maple support pieces. It was a hair, fraction, of inch too short. So my grooves I cut for my shelf supports were off just a bit when lined up next to another piece. So i used a little bit of wood epoxy and wallah!

Above shot of adding just a tad to the height:


Same piece but as you can see I really didn't add that much:


Finally piecing it together to see where I need to make adjustments and some sanding to line it all up:






See the end of the clamp on the top right? I nailed my head at least 3 good times and maybe a soft 4th time just for good measure. The 3rd time was the worst and that one was the type where you just wanted to throw the desk off the top of the work bench and be done with it. If I hadn't of had my beanie on I would have left a mark in my head.

I'm real excited to get to the point of where this thing is ready to be stained. I think the patterns in the grain look awesome on the ma.....
 
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jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
So as I was saying previously, I finally got to piece together the shelf side and while I was taking it apart again to do some tweaking i dropped the back piece and I just turned away from it for about 2 minutes b/c I did not want to see what was damaged or what chipped off. Finally i mustered up the courage to look over and see what damage I had caused on my previously beautiful piece of maple. I examined the piece of wood and saw that the corner where the two joints meet up was cracked/smashed/chipped.





I took my chisel and cleaned it up as much as possible. The worst part about it was the damage was located in the exact place that looked amazing when the two pieces came together. ::sigh::

So I got my wood epoxy back out and let it sit over night. I think it came out pretty good for having a complete split down the joint and what the smashed corner looked like.

Before:




After:




So today after gathering myself back up after that mishap I pieced together everything on the shelving unit. Some things where a little off but I leveled out my work bench so that I didn't have to worry about being off on 90 degree angles. It might look good on the bench but it will be waaay off when I get it down to the floor. So to finish it up tonight I glued the joint into the support piece for the drawers where I'm going to connect the back of the desk to the shelves. Is progress being made? yes....but at a very slow rate
 

jaedaliu

Platinum Member
Feb 25, 2005
2,670
1
81
excellent job so far! destroying wood is part of the learning process. At least wood is cheap.

One note: wood is pretty resilient to temperature change. It's humidity levels that causes greener wood to warp. Or it just might be your wood drying out for the first time. Plywood should be fairly consistent, though.
 

smackababy

Lifer
Oct 30, 2008
27,024
79
86
This thread makes me hate living in a condo so much more. I miss having a place to actually do projects like this. My neighbors hate me enough when I saw the occasional thing outside. =(
 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I am doubly sorry for this post. I had a 40 minute marathon describing pictures and what not with methods when I was tabbing and "x'd" out of the forums....gahhhhh!!!! So for now here is are the pictures. Will edit later with commentary.



















 

jbombo34

Member
Jul 14, 2013
91
0
66
Continuing on with the felt



To make the joints strong and workable in the future I had to come up with a method that would be easy, yet practical. So I decided to use a mortise/tenon joint of sorts. I used a 1/2" diameter piece of wood and cut them into 2 1/4" rods, drilled holes and glued them in.


Here is the trail I made for the LED wire/plug. Doesn't seem like much wood removal but it took FOREVER!


Mirrored piece in to check to see if final measurements are long enough and ready for gluing.


How I filled the gaps in the miter cuts, which I was talking about previously but if you are reading this post prior to the editing on above said post, I took sawdust from the leopardwood and lightly mixed it with wood glue until I got a sticky enough paste but still dark enough to dry next to the wood without obvious distinction.


All four corners now with the sawdust/glue paste.


Sanded after drying. Turned out WAY better than I expected.


Mirror film on top piece of glass. If you have ever put tint on glass before you will know what I'm talking about but this is really for those of you who think they might want to do this in the future.

Putting tint/film on glass is not easy. Especially in extremely dry climates where static electricity is prevalent. This is my 3rd and final try and I still ended up with some dust on the glass after washing and wiping it with soapy water many times. I just said to the heck with it and thought I should take my best result and go with it. If I need to when I try it out, I will replace and try again but for now this will do.


1st coat of Sam Maloof Poly/Oil finish. Will see as it progresses. Had to move upstairs b/c of how cold it is down the basement. Only -9 out right now.
 
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