computer will not POST?

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
I recently shut off my computer, and a few hours later after trying to turn it back on I discovered that it would not POST. I can hear the hard drives spinning up and the fans running but the monitor never receives a signal. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Update: Well..... I received the RMA'ed MB today in the mail. I have purchased a new power supply as well and the machine won't POST. I am speechless.. it's been almost two months now that I haven't been able to use this computer. Any other suggestions?

Update 2: Sigh.. replaced CPU and RAM to no avail. What is going on..

Hopefully last update: New MB recommendations? DFI shipped me a replacement MB today.. the only thing is that the replacement is defective as well...
 

goobernoodles

Golden Member
Jun 5, 2005
1,820
2
81
Reseat the video card. AKA - take out the video card, and push it back in. Make sure its screwed in tightly.
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
Thanks for the replies. I tried resetting the MB and reseating everything in the computer, but it doesn't appear to be working. Could the culprit be the power supply? I emailed DFI to request a motherboard RMA, but if the problem is the power supply it would be a lot less hassle. I have an antec 380W SmartPower or something, whatever was included with the Sonata I.

By the way, when I try to start up the computer the hard drive light along with the power light remain constantly on, though I doubt the problem is with my HD's.
 

Wentelteefje

Golden Member
Dec 6, 2005
1,380
0
0
Did a Clear CMOS already...? Have a PSU with a 24-pin connector to test with... (if it's a nForce 4 mobo)? Try booting as light as possible, unplug your secondary slave, your other harddrives (only the one with Windows on must stay)... Try another molex connector if that's what your VGA is powered through... Try reseating the card...Try another graphics card... (PCI maybe)

The PSU from the first Sonata was good, but is now a bit "light" to power some serious hardware... Don't know what your specs are, but it could be insufficient... Do the fans of your PSU spin? CPU cooler spins too?
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
I am running a NF3 motherboard with 2 HD, 6600GT, 2 optical, etc. I tried unplugging many devices and noticed that when I unplugged the optical IDE cable the HD indicator light, which would previously remain continuously on, did not blink at all after disconnecting, though the computer still would not boot. All the fans spin when I power up the system, so does that rule out the possibility of PSU failure?
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
Ok I will purchase a new PSU. Any recommendations? Preferably quieter models that have sleeved cables. Thanks.
 

jnjboc

Member
Dec 11, 2005
114
0
0
I'm a firm believer in PC Power and Cooling. I have their Turbo 510 SLI with sleeved cables. Just a fantastically built piece of equipment. I'm confident it's the last PSU I may ever need.

Rock steady voltages, and a reputation for bullet proof design....expensive, but well worth it in my opinion.
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
Hm the PC P+C seems a little over my budget, though it would be nice. I'm looking to spend around $100 or less on this thing, though I don't want another one crapping out on me anytime soon.

and Merry Christmas

btw, here is my exact setup:
A64 3000+ S754
DFI UT Lanparty NF3 250GB MB
2 HD (1 SATA + 1 IDE)
2 Optical (CD-RW + DVD-RW)
NVIDIA Geforce 6600GT
SB Audigy
1 GB Geil RAM (2 x 512)
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
No, it's not a new build. I already tried stripping most of the parts off and it still did not POST, though everything appeared to go on.
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
Well..... I received the RMA'ed MB today in the mail. I have purchased a new power supply as well and the machine won't POST. I am speechless.. it's been almost two months now that I haven't been able to use this computer. Any other suggestions?
 

professor1942

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
509
0
0
I get a kick out of all the problems people have like this where a bunch of other forum members say "it's your PSU" and the poor guy goes and buys a new PSU and it (of course) has nothing to do with the problem.

Why are people so quick to blame problems on the PSU? It's like idiot doctors prescribing penicillin for every little stubbed toe case that comes in their door.
 

shimsham

Lifer
May 9, 2002
10,765
0
0
Originally posted by: professor1942
I get a kick out of all the problems people have like this where a bunch of other forum members say "it's your PSU" and the poor guy goes and buys a new PSU and it (of course) has nothing to do with the problem.

Why are people so quick to blame problems on the PSU? It's like idiot doctors prescribing penicillin for every little stubbed toe case that comes in their door.



because it all begins with power? easiest to swap out and test?

ive had more pss die on me than anything. i wouldnt recommend buying anything until a person has determined for sure what the problem is by using backup parts, or borrowing from friends or a local pc shop if theyll let you.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: professor1942
I get a kick out of all the problems people have like this where a bunch of other forum members say "it's your PSU" and the poor guy goes and buys a new PSU and it (of course) has nothing to do with the problem.

Why are people so quick to blame problems on the PSU? It's like idiot doctors prescribing penicillin for every little stubbed toe case that comes in their door.

Yeah, I'll never know why either. I must be lucky. I've never had a PSU ever die on me, no matter where I got it.
 

Reapsy01

Member
Oct 27, 2005
110
0
0
Originally posted by: professor1942
I get a kick out of all the problems people have like this where a bunch of other forum members say "it's your PSU" and the poor guy goes and buys a new PSU and it (of course) has nothing to do with the problem.

Why are people so quick to blame problems on the PSU? It's like idiot doctors prescribing penicillin for every little stubbed toe case that comes in their door.


Perhaps you would like to hear a problem I just solved. Long story short a new build with 7800gt amd 64 3200 plus the usual stuff. and a dvd burner. Built it all was fine but the DVD drive sometimes worked and sometimes not but would play CoD 2 fine.

Turns out the psu a levicom 450 watt one only had 25 A on 12 volt rail (this was from the guys old pc trying to save him some cash by using it). Slapped in anew Enermax 535W and the DVD works fine now.
 

veggz

Banned
Jan 3, 2005
843
0
0
So any suggestions?

Can somebody just list every single possible problem for a system not posting?
 

professor1942

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
509
0
0
I assume you've tried different RAM and a different video card already? And turning it on with all drives unplugged? That leaves... the cpu.
 

Madwand1

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2006
3,309
0
76
Originally posted by: veggz
So any suggestions?

Can somebody just list every single possible problem for a system not posting?


Although you'll have to modify some of the following suggestions for your particular system's error messaging, you might find its approach helpful.

(I received this as part of a note regarding a technical support query email that I put in with ASUS regarding dual-core support for a particular MB. It was pretty frustrating that I needed to update the BIOS to support the CPU, but the MB wouldn't POST with that CPU so I couldn't update the BIOS, but ASUS was very helpful and offered to update the BIOS chip for me.)

If your system doesn't send a signal to the monitor when it's powered on, there are several potential causes. Your problem could lie within the motherboard itself, or with a component installed on the board. It could even be caused by grounding or EMI. Please follow these steps to troubleshoot:


First you want to do is pull the motherboard out of the case. Place onto piece of cardboard or static mat. Limit the system down to the bare components. Videocard, memory, processor, and external speaker should be the only things that you have attached to the system. Clr the cmos battery, make sure that you unplug the power from the board, take the battery out, and then short the clrtc leads for 10-15 sec. After doing that power the system back on. If you still don't get anything, then you want to try and force a beep code. Power off the system, remove the videocard, power back on and listen for beeps. If you get beeps then you need to test that device to make sure that it's not defective. If no beeps, then go on to remove the memory, power back on and listen for beeps. Then the last thing to do if you still do not get beeps, is remove the processor and power on without the cpu installed. If nothing ever gives a beep code, just check to make sure that your speaker works, and is plugged in correctly, to the lime green line out port onboard. If you still experience problems at that point, then I would either return the board to the place of purchase, or you can send it in to us.

BASICS

Start by making sure all connections are made properly, and that the power supply is plugged in and turned on. Check your heat sink and fan to make sure they are installed in the correct position. Make sure that all of your components (processor, video card, etc.) are compatible with the motherboard.

GROUNDING/EMI TROUBLESHOOTING

Check that the MB is not picking up EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), or improperly grounding against the case. Please remove the MB from the case and set it up DIRECTLY on the cardboard box it came in or some other non-static, non-conductive surface, like a telephone book. Install the power supply, processor (with heat sink and fan), memory and video card. If the motherboard has the vocal POST feature activated, plug speakers into the onboard audio jacks. If the board doesn't have this feature, or if it's been deactivated, make sure to install a case speaker on the board.

If the system now POSTs then your problem is caused by grounding. You will need to electrically isolate the MB from the case to correct it. To do this, you will need to use electrical tape to cover the brass standoffs that support the MB, and insert paper washers between the MB and the heads of the mounting screws. The red paper washers should be included with your case hardware, or they can be purchased at Radio Shack or a computer store.
Make sure that no standoffs are placed in a spot where the motherboard isn't designed to be grounded, as some cases will have different standoff locations to accommodate different styles of motherboards. Also check that there are no other metal objects that could contact the motherboard or any other electrical device attached to the system, such as a metal burr, loose screw, metal rod, or any other object that could cause a short.

POST CODE TROUBLESHOOTING

If the system still won't POST then determine which, if any, error code is being generated. Motherboards with the vocal POST feature will "tell" you what is wrong, i.e. "System Failed VGA TEST" or "System Failed CPU Test." Beep codes and their meanings can be found in your User's Manual. Investigate any error messages (System Failed VGA Test, or one long and three short beeps, indicates a possible bad video card, etc.) you receive in this fashion.

If the system gives no POST error codes while refusing to boot, follow these steps:

Remove the memory entirely and boot the system to try to force a POST error. The beep code for no memory is 1 long continuous beep, or several long beeps in an endless loop (or you may hear "System Failed Memory Test" in a repeating loop). If you do get an error, try a different stick of memory to see if that fixes the problem. If it does, the original stick of memory may be bad. If it doesn't, you may have a problem with your MB. Proceed to the Power Supply Troubleshooting procedures.

If you don't get any POST errors, remove the CPU from the board and boot it again. If you have a MB with the vocal POST feature, you should hear "No CPU Installed" or "No CPU Found" repeating error messages. If you hear these messages, it's very likely that you have a bad processor. If you don't hear these messages, you may have a problem with your MB. Proceed to the Power Supply Troubleshooting procedures.

Next, test the CPU. You want to test the CPU in a known good, working MB. If you test on a motherboard that you know works and the CPU still does not work, you know you have a bad CPU. If it works correctly on the second motherboard, you know that your CPU is not the problem.

POWER SUPPLY TROUBLESHOOTING

Please check to make sure your power supply can provide enough power for your system. We recommend using power supplies that can provide these output levels:

300-Watt Power Supply
+5 Volts @ 28-32 Amps, +12 Volts @ 10-13 Amps, +3.3 Volts @ 24-28 Amps

350-Watt Power Supply
+5 Volts @ 32-38 Amps, +12 Volts @ 12-15 Amps, +3.3 Volts @ 26-30 Amps

400-Watt Power Supply
+5 Volts @ 35-40 Amps, +12 Volts @ 14-18 Amps, +3.3 Volts @ 30-34 Amps

450-Watt Power Supply
+5 Volts @ 35-40 Amps, +12 Volts @ 18-22 Amps, +3.3 Volts @ 35-39 Amps

500-Watt Power Supply
+5 Volts @ 35-42 Amps, +12 Volts @ 20-24 Amps, +3.3 Volts @ 38-42 Amps

The specific power requirements for your system will depend on many factors, chief among them being which processor and video card are installed. Newer processors with faster fsb will require more power, as will newer video cards with faster and more sophisticated GPUs. Using a more potent audio card (or using the SoundStorm or SoundMax onboard audio systems on our motherboards) or a second video card will require extra power. Installing extra case fans (more than one or two) will increase power usage, as will SCSI or ATA controller cards with extra drives installed on them. Make sure you've selected a supply with sufficient output. If you're not sure how much power you will need, please contact Technical Support at the telephone number below for assistance.

At this point your system should be stripped of most of its components. Try installing a different power supply of equal or greater power to see if the system boots. If your original power supply is underpowered then one with greater wattage should start your system. If your system still won't POST, your problem is most likely caused by the motherboard.

If you determine the motherboard to be the cause of the problem, you can contact our RMA department to have it repaired or replaced. Please be ready with your case number and the board?s serial number, then call.


NOTE****************************************************************************

If you pull the motherboard out of the case and when powering on the motherboard, if the fans do no spin, then you need to COMPLETELY remove everything from the motherboard. The only things you should have connected are the cpu fan, and the power supply. MAKE SURE THE PROCESSOR IS OUT OF THE BOARD! Power back on again, and what should happen is the fans should spin and stay running until you power off the system. If the system still doesn't spin the fans, then the problem is either with the power supply, or this motherboard. Please verify that the power supply isn't defective.
 

clarkmo

Platinum Member
Oct 27, 2000
2,615
2
81
Originally posted by: Broly
sounds like you have a dfi.,

That's cold dude..don't leave him hanging
Are your mobo jumpersw ok?I have a nforce2 mobo that requires a jumper to be set for 200 mhz. Manual wording left me confused so I had it set wrong.It had posted at this setting before but wouldn't post agin til I fixed the jumper.

 

Broly

Banned
Dec 18, 2005
430
0
0
veggz
The lanparties suck, there have been innumerated amounts of people having the same propblem.

I had it and i just gave up..

They hit post at times and freeze at memory checks, after raid bios, before raid bios, hell restarting and not posting at all

Get rid of your board man. Please.
 
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