CPU Heatsink Touching Case Panel

[3DoubleD]

As the title suggest, I have a heatsink fitting in case problem.

The current situation is that I am replacing a dying AM2 mobo in my Unraid storage server with a 1366 mobo + i7 920 + Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 heatsink into a Rosewill RSV-L4500 4U case. I was a bit worried about heat sink clearance going into it, but it turns out that it almost exactly fits... almost. The heat pipes are probably a few mm too tall. I can completely shut the case lid (and screw it in) with small-to-moderate effort, but there is some downward pressure on the heatsink, and thus the socket and motherboard. This must mean there is some bending/flex of the motherboard around the socket when the door is on.

I'm looking to see whether there is a consensus that this would be a problem or not.

- If electrical insulation is a problem, I could easily put some electrical tape over top, I'm sure it won't substantially inflame the height issue.

- Is the motherboard flexing a problem? I imagine some bending is fine, since it is not abnormal these days for huge 1kg heatsinks to be hanging off the socket, nor do many heatsinks fix to the motherboard without a reasonable amount of bending.

So my options appear to be:

1) Don't do anything, a small amount of bending shouldn't be a problem (maybe put some electrical tape on the door to insulate the heatsink)
2) Try to modify the case/heatsink (sand the door thinner, sand the heat pipes slightly)
3) I'm being stupid and cheap, just buy a new heatsink that fits and throw out the Noctua.
4) Other

If you think option 3 is the way too go, please feel free to suggest a good cooler for a i7 920 OC'd to 3.8 GHz that is < 158 mm tall (let's say < 155 mm tall to be safe, but bonus internet points if it is even shorter). I'd honestly like to spend $0, but if I have to, definitely no more than $50.

One thought I had was that I could re-purpose my Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 heatsink for a new, upcoming Skylake build. Unfortunately, while you can buy Noctua conversion kits, you can't convert this specific heatsink apparently (according to their website). So it seems I either use the Noctua cooler or throw it out.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

First, unless I missed something, that cooler should install without problem to a Skylake motherboard.

Second, there are a couple options --

You could dent the case panel using a ball-peen hammer after marking spots where the cooler is making contact. I had done this occasionally with some old cases which presented the same problem. From the outside, if the denting is done neatly, the bulges don't much detract from the aesthetic beauty of the case, and I frankly wouldn't care about that when it comes to the rackmount case.

You could spend $20 to $30 on a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO cooler -- which should probably fit in your situation.

 

[3DoubleD]

First, unless I missed something, that cooler should install without problem to a Skylake motherboard.

According to the Noctua website, on my cooler's product page it says the following:

"Please note that the NH-U12P SE1366 is only compatible with LGA1366 and that we can't supply mounting kits for other sockets. If you'd like to use the cooler on LGA775 or AM2+, please choose the standard NH-U12P."

So it appears the cooler is useless for anything else

You could spend $20 to $30 on a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO cooler -- which should probably fit in your situation.

This heat sink is 159 mm tall, which is 1 mm taller than the Noctua.
NH-U12P SE1366.

You could dent the case panel using a ball-peen hammer

That's a good idea! I'll have to find one of those. That should surely do the trick.

 

[MongGrel]

You could dent the case panel using a ball-peen hammer after marking spots where the cooler is making contact. I had done this occasionally with some old cases which presented the same problem. From the outside, if the denting is done neatly, the bulges don't much detract from the aesthetic beauty of the case, and I frankly wouldn't care about that when it comes to the rackmount case.

Not a bad suggestion really in your case (No Pun intended)

After finding the spots, Id lay it on a 2x4 on the backside at least for striking.

Something to back it up for support that will give before "peening" it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peening

 

[ignatzatsonic]

If you can identify exactly where the heatpipes are touching the case panel, you might be able to use a drill or punch of some type to cut a hole or series of holes in the panel so that the offending high points on the cooler extend through the hole to the exterior.

You could apply something to the top of the heatpipes (vaseline? paint?), just enough to leave marks on the inside of the case panel when it's closed. That would indicate where the rub is and what must be cut away.


That might be more pleasing to the eye than applying dents with a ball peen hammer?

There are some decent lower priced low profile coolers under $50, but I'm not sure about availability on your socket.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

If you can identify exactly where the heatpipes are touching the case panel, you might be able to use a drill or punch of some type to cut a hole or series of holes in the panel so that the offending high points on the cooler extend through the hole to the exterior.

You could apply something to the top of the heatpipes (vaseline? paint?), just enough to leave marks on the inside of the case panel when it's closed. That would indicate where the rub is and what must be cut away.


That might be more pleasing to the eye than applying dents with a ball peen hammer?

There are some decent lower priced low profile coolers under $50, but I'm not sure about availability on your socket.

Also a possibly viable idea. Dents or holes -- it also depends on how the panel is applied to the case before it locks and latches into place. If it has to slide into a locked position, either the holes or dents need to accommodate the situation.

With the ball-peen hammer, MongGrel had the right idea: use a 2x4 or softwood surface that you'd be indifferent to marring. I'd use a second hammer to tap the ball-peen hammer shaping the dents.

 

[MongGrel]

With the ball-peen hammer, MongGrel had the right idea: use a 2x4 or softwood surface that you'd be indifferent to marring. I'd use a second hammer to tap the ball-peen hammer shaping the dents.

Good idea also, if your inexperienced in peening things.