custom stereo

[subs]

I have a 1995 for explorer and I took out stock stereo replaced with a custom stereo then I bought a touch screen stereo to hook up and it wont turn on no fuses are blown and I haven't grounded to the chassis yet but I was wondering if there could be any other issues besides the ground?

 

[NL5]

It won't work without the chassis ground.

 

[subs]

thanks I'll see what happens when I get that done

 

[WhiteNoise]

Why would you try to power the unit without a ground?

Always make sure you remove the negative terminal cable on the battery before messing with wires and such while installing a stereo. Otherwise you could cause more issues.

Also keep in mind for the stereo to power up properly you need the ground and a constant 12 volt power as well as a switchable 12 volt power line. Diagram came with your stereo. I take it you did not buy a harness? If you had then you wouldn't have to worry about the wires; as it would be plug and play.

 

[subs]

I got the stereo all hooked up and I used the ground the vehicle had and it didnt turn on then i grounded to the chassis and it still wont turn on i have hooked up stereos before and they all worked but this issue has never happened so I'm starting to wonder if my 2 power wires are no good any other thoughts out there

 

[Gerle]

Do you have a multimeter?

 

[subs]

yea I do but it has alot of different settings on it and didnt know what to set it on i have never used one I got it for free from harbor freight

 

[Gerle]

Here's a start:

 

[subs]

thanks that helps alot none of the videos I looked up helped

 

[killster1]

thanks that helps alot none of the videos I looked up helped

sounds like it did NOT help alot! so go buy the wire harness? check the fuse inside of the radio?

 

[mindless1]

You should not need a grounded chassis (radio metal case) besides any already designed into it from it touching its internal circuit ground from a PCB or ground strap. If the wiring harness ground leads are good it should work.

There should be at least one, probably two ground wires coming from the factory wiring harness. It might help if you dug up the wiring diagram for your '95.

Did it have the stock radio still, or at least an unmolested wiring harness? If so, which radio did it have? AFAIK your 4 choices are:

1) Base Radio
2) With CD Changer
3) Premium MACH sound system
4) Premium MACH without CD Changer

Tell us which of those 4 it is and I probably have a wiring diagram for it.

Edit: There may be a 5th variant of those listed above, you could just post the wire colors on the harness you have, either in correct pin order or also post a picture if you don't know which of the radios you had.

Anyway you'd set a multimeter to 20VDC range (or the closest range over 14.4V, 100VDC range would work in this case), put the multimeter red lead on each of the two power leads in turn and the black meter lead on any chassis ground point to verify that both power wires have ~12V+ on them. The clock/memory power lead will have power at all times. The stereo "on" power lead will only have power with the key in the run or accessory position.

Next you can use the multimeter to check whether there is continuity (or very low resistance) between the (probably two) ground leads and any chassis ground point (unpainted metal, bolt head under dash, etc).

 

[subs]

I connected my multimeter to the power wires and my constant has no bolts running through it? would it be a fuse or do I need to hook up a new constant wire

 

[mindless1]

We seem to have a language barrier.

You should have 12V on fuse 29 at all times and 12V on fuse 20 with the key in run or accessory position. There is no reason you would need to run a new wire unless the existing wire was damaged or the new stereo needs more power than (higher current rating than the fused circuit for) the original.

 

[subs]

so I hooked up my new stereo and my old one was still working when I could hear the audio through the speakers when I got done hooking up the new one the speakers are working I hooked up all the speaker wire the right way I've checked five times my passenger side speaker was blown they are the stock speakers what could be wrong could it be the stereo is too powerful for the speakers and blew them? and does anybody know if 95 Ford Explorer has a built-in speaker amp in between the stereo and speakers

 

[mindless1]

It depends on which radio you have. I already asked that. Looks like a waste of time to have to ask things twice.
<unsubscribed>

If you have the premium Mach setup with a subwoofer in the rear quarter panel then you have an amp back there for ALL speakers and the console head unit is just a smart tuner & line level out, then the wiring to the speakers comes from the amp in the rear quarter panel. The head unit L/R/F/R go back to the amp. You can use a multimeter in AC voltage mode to measure the output signal level to the speakers.

If you do not have a subwoofer (and amp, the factory sub and amp are a combo and won't come separately unless a prior owner has butchered it into something non-stock by now), then the speaker wires go direct from head unit to speakers. It is not going to be an issue of the replacement radio being too powerful unless you cranked it up to an extreme volume.