Dang!

[Muse]

My car alarm hasn't worked for I'm thinking 3+ years (1997 Mazda 626LX 2.0L has less than 34k on the odometer, stock alarm system). I had struggles with it and just gave up. The alarm company (Crimeguard) apparently has an indefinite warranty and I've called them multiple times. Ya get what ya get when you call them. Some of the guys are better than others.

The remote does unlock and lock the doors. There's no beep, you just hear the latch mechanisms' thuds. I'm "OK, at least it's locking."

There's a valet feature that turns off the alarm in case you leave the car at a car dealership or maybe a valet at a hotel, kind of thing. I monkeyed with that, got the alarm working again a few years ago but last time I couldn't get it to work, the Crimeguard guy suggested bringing it to a shop and I just said fuck it.

A reason I'm concerned is there's quite a bit of catalytic converter theft going on in my neighborhood. I figure the car alarm is some insurance that someone won't rip my CC. The car's parked in the driveway, adjacent my 2nd story bedroom. The car itself, I don't think would be thief bait.

Today, I'm in a Trader Joe's parking lot and the damn alarm goes off. I'm "is that MY CAR???" I hit the remote button and the alarm turns off! I get the car home and test the alarm (open the trunk with the key, close it, alarm goes off). Don't know what to think. Stuck relay suddenly gets unstuck?

Another funny thing: The battery's ~8 years old. I have been using the car every other week for a Costco run. Period. Used to play golf but since pandemic, no golf. I drive maybe 15 miles on that Costco trip. I keep a charger on the battery all the time, remove it before my every other Thursday trip and check the battery voltage with a multimeter before my trip. It's usually around 12.68v, something like that. The last 2-3 months it's shown around 12.3v, even less, so I figured the battery's going. I got my last battery at Walmart (they aren't easy to find), but right now they are out of stock. I signed up for an email in-stock alert, but it's been around 3 months now and still OOS. So, today, before my Costco run (mostly freeway, then hit Trader Joe's a mile before I get home) I tested the battery and it says 12.97v! I'm WTF, it never tested that high, even when new! It's a cheapo Harbor Freight multimeter, so I go get my best multimeter, a Fluke. It says 12.94v! I'm WTF!!! After I get home I test again (with the Harbor Freight meter, which I keep in the car) and it says 12.7v IIRC. So, I'm wondering about the battery. I also wonder if it has something to do with the alarm working. My testing of the alarm was with the car's ignition off.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I think you're much like me. You may fret over "different numbers" and worry about something that is nothing.

I now recharge my batteries for two cars once monthly. I'm a better example than you -- I might drive our truck once a month, and then only for a few miles. My Trooper gets driven a couple times weekly, but for short trips less than 10 miles of a grocery errand circuit. One needs to drive the car more frequently to keep the battery charged. Or plan to keep the charger or "trickle-charger" at the ready for monthly use, and disconnect the negative lead to the battery if the car gets as little use as our truck.

On the anti-theft system, I never used it on my Trooper, and the keychain remotes always needed new batteries. I finally had an improbable kind of accident when hauling a 32" tube-type TV to the recycler when it wasn't properly secured in my Trooper's cargo bay. I went over a little bump at gutter of my driveway, and the TV pitched backward shattering the rear window. I'm pretty sure it tripped an anti-tamper switch. I could turn off the AT system, but the LED light would continue to blink wildly to signify something like a sprung anti-tamper switch/sensor.

Should I take apart the rear door to reset the switch? That's either too much trouble for me, fraught with mistakes and damage, or too costly to pay someone else to do it. I'm going to cut the appropriate wire to the sensor, so that the AT system sees it as being in its normal state.

I cannot advise as to how you might mitigate the risk of the catalytic converter thieves. But, despite the low mileage, your car is about 23 years old. Can you live without an anti-theft system? Only you can say. But OEM AT systems are tricky. Even some factory shop manuals contain misleading information about them, possibly as a "security" measure.

 

[Muse]

I cannot advise as to how you might mitigate the risk of the catalytic converter thieves. But, despite the low mileage, your car is about 23 years old. Can you live without an anti-theft system? Only you can say. But OEM AT systems are tricky. Even some factory shop manuals contain misleading information about them, possibly as a "security" measure.

Complicating my situation is the fact that I don't know the model of my AT system. When I called the company wanting to get manuals it got narrowed down to 2, so they sent me manuals for both. They are similar, but not the same, of course. They told me where to look to find the model number but have never been able to find it.

I'm wondering why my readings for battery voltage are confounding. I figure buy a new battery, the one in there is 8 YO. Meantime, it seems to be no serious issue, as long as the car starts.

I thought the alarm sounded maybe a bit weak, which might suggest the battery's weak. Not sure. Why the alarm suddenly works after 3 years not working? How long will it continue working? No idea.

 

[Scarpozzi]

It could have been a stuck relay....but it could also be a setting or sensor that WAS malfunctioning.

My 4Runner recently had an issue with the computer that was causing the door locks and courtesy lights (that come on when the doors are opened) to fail. What made the problem difficult to troubleshoots was that the power while the key is in the ON position worked. The lights switched on just fine when the key was OFF....but for them to work when the key was off, they always had +12v to them....

When you flipped the switch to power things, all the switch was doing was closing the ground to complete the circuit. The hard wired switch ground was going to the battery. The courtesy lights and door unlock mechanisms were getting a generated ground signal from the computer and that varied based on the key position. If door sensors weren't reporting the doors as closed, different things would happen....so the whole system was kind of finicky if there was any problem. I ended up isolating that the main body ECU had some burn marks near one of the pins....suggesting some kind of electrical issue. $130 used ECU from eBay fixed me.

My point of telling this story is just a reminder that there are many pieces to these things and it's almost easier to fix a problem like that when it's 100% not working as long as you can go through the circuits and test the power from the battery back to the alarm system itself. It's just really difficult to do when you are dealing with all the parts being crammed under the dashboard and sometimes being fed power and sensors from multiple sources.

 

[Jimminy]

If you can't find the exact battery for that car, keep in mind that any battery would work as long as it will physically fit, and has the right style terminals (so the cables will connect).

Carry a tape measure and buy the largest battery that will fit. Oh, yeah, must be the same voltage (12V I assume).

You could also look at modifying the car's battery box/holder too.

Good luck

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Complicating my situation is the fact that I don't know the model of my AT system. When I called the company wanting to get manuals it got narrowed down to 2, so they sent me manuals for both. They are similar, but not the same, of course. They told me where to look to find the model number but have never been able to find it.

I'm wondering why my readings for battery voltage are confounding. I figure buy a new battery, the one in there is 8 YO. Meantime, it seems to be no serious issue, as long as the car starts.

I thought the alarm sounded maybe a bit weak, which might suggest the battery's weak. Not sure. Why the alarm suddenly works after 3 years not working? How long will it continue working? No idea.

Well, I feel kinship with people who keep old cars. With my old orphaned Trooper, I have a mental list of things still wrong: 1) I want to replace some bumper parts so the bumper is perfectly aligned -- no problem with that, and the parts are waiting in a corner of the garage; 2) The Mechanic From Hell broke the connection to the horn switches on my steering wheel, and I've installed a rocker switch on the dashboard connected to the horn relay; 3) The Same Mechanic From Hell damaged the connection to a "fuel-tank-empty" idiot light, which I don't need; 4) my anti-theft system needs to have an anti-tamper sensor reset, or its wire clipped so the AT system "thinks" it's OK.

For the horn and idiot light, my mechanic/technician will need to pull the entire dashboard, and there are complications because I added more wiring with my audio system upgrades. I can "do" the bumper parts replacement myself, and the only difficulty now is finding the time. I've simply disabled the Anti-Theft system for now, because it has an "on/off" switch.

I would think you might want to do much the same thing with your anti-theft system, if you can simply turn it off. And it's nice to have a little keychain remote that will lock or unlock your doors. Mine hasn't been working for about 15 years. Can you live without it and still feel happy with the car?

On the matter of batteries, the cars need to be driven regularly, or the battery should be disconnected at the negative terminal between trips or usage. It's a nuisance, and I don't like to get my hands greasy doing it, so I use nitrile gloves, and keep a 10mm wrench handy.

Another thing about not driving a car enough scared the hell out of me today. My brother's Nissan 95 pickup is up for both registration renewal and smog-test to qualify for that renewal. the 2019 test was stellar. I drove the car down to my smog-test guy, and nothing seemed wrong. He was just finishing the test when we discovered a puddle of gasoline on his garage floor under the Nissan's engine. It was coming from a hose to an emissions/fuel-system canister under the hood, which had split and leaking gasoline. I could've had a fire! I'm pretty sure why the truck suddenly failed smog test. It had only been driven 200 miles since the 2019 "stellar" test results.

Hoses dry out and deteriorate if you don't drive the vehicle enough. I told my newly-adopted repair shop and service advisor that I would bring the truck in next week, with a laundry list of things I wanted done in addition to the hose and anything else affecting a smog-test or safety. I change my mind: I won't wait until next week if I can help it. I'm calling him again tomorrow to see if I can get the truck in for the repairs ASAP..

And again, with the battery. "Eight years old"?!! That's certainly a long life for a battery, but at that point, you shouldn't hesitate to get a new one. I usually have to do it after five years.

 

[Muse]

My car alarm hasn't worked for I'm thinking 3+ years (1997 Mazda 626LX 2.0L has less than 34k on the odometer, stock alarm system). I had struggles with it and just gave up. The alarm company (Crimeguard) apparently has an indefinite warranty and I've called them multiple times. Ya get what ya get when you call them. Some of the guys are better than others.

The remote does unlock and lock the doors. There's no beep, you just hear the latch mechanisms' thuds. I'm "OK, at least it's locking."

I should have added that occasionally the car doesn't respond to the remote at all, i.e. the doors won't unlock when I press the remote button. Of course, the battery in the remote is then suspect and I've looked to that possibility, also the possibility of dodgy continuity in the remote, e.g. dirty battery terminal, etc. I have an alternate remote I've swapped as well. I'm going to read the responses from the last day or two now... thanks for the responses!

I now recharge my batteries for two cars once monthly. I'm a better example than you -- I might drive our truck once a month, and then only for a few miles. My Trooper gets driven a couple times weekly, but for short trips less than 10 miles of a grocery errand circuit. One needs to drive the car more frequently to keep the battery charged. Or plan to keep the charger or "trickle-charger" at the ready for monthly use, and disconnect the negative lead to the battery if the car gets as little use as our truck.

I could be wrong, but I have been under the impression that a car battery will last longer if kept pretty fully charged. I got some cheapo trickle chargers at Harbor Freight (like 6 bucks on sale or so), they seemed to work OK, but if the battery was run down they weren't much good in the short term so I bought a ~$30 charger, sort of a trickle charger with more oomph (at Kragen, who are now O'Reilly). Unlike the Harbor Freight ones it senses the charge on the battery and turns on/off accordingly, at least that's what it's supposed to do. It has an LED that glows bright yellow when it's charging, at least that's my memory of how it works (I should read the manual, I probably have it). That's the charger I leave on the battery all the time when the car is parked at home in my driveway. I snake a long extension cord up into the engine compartment using a coat hanger with a loop I fashioned at one end after I use the car. If I'm using the car more frequently than I am now, I'd maybe forego hooking up the charger but, like I say, I'm not playing golf now so I'm only driving every other week that 15 mile trip. Before vaxxed I wasn't even doing that during the pandemic. I could have just unhooked the negative terminal of the battery (didn't think of that at the time) since I wasn't using the car at all, but I just left the charger on the battery full time. Didn't notice a problem doing that. Presumably, that charger's designed to maintain the battery indefinitely.

On the matter of batteries, the cars need to be driven regularly, or the battery should be disconnected at the negative terminal between trips or usage. It's a nuisance, and I don't like to get my hands greasy doing it, so I use nitrile gloves, and keep a 10mm wrench handy.
....-snip....
And again, with the battery. "Eight years old"?!! That's certainly a long life for a battery, but at that point, you shouldn't hesitate to get a new one. I usually have to do it after five years.

I suppose a good inspection is in order for your Trooper. Your story makes me wonder if I shouldn't have one now myself since I basically didn't use the car for a year... maybe some of my hoses are suspect? I think maybe the car was used twice... once to gas up, the other time to get it smogged (it always smogs like a champ). I had the 30K inspection done maybe a couple 1000 miles early, because the car's so old. At 34K, it's not much used since, but that year of disuse could affect hoses, maybe belts too, an interesting point. I took it to a highly rated indy shop, had them fix my AC a week after the inspection.

I could live without the AT system, I mean I did for the last 3+ years. Even the remote door lock/unlock, I could live without that. Just use the key. Had to do that a time or two when got no response from the remote.

So, yeah, I've had the impression that a battery maintenance charger would keep the battery healthy longer. Maybe longer than just unhooking the negative terminal connection to the chassis. Don't know, but I've been using the constant charger strategy. 8 years from the battery suggests this is effective.

If you can't find the exact battery for that car, keep in mind that any battery would work as long as it will physically fit, and has the right style terminals (so the cables will connect).

Carry a tape measure and buy the largest battery that will fit. Oh, yeah, must be the same voltage (12V I assume).

You could also look at modifying the car's battery box/holder too.

Good luck

I was wondering that. Thanks!!!

 

[Jimminy]

So, yeah, I've had the impression that a battery maintenance charger would keep the battery healthy longer. Maybe longer than just unhooking the negative terminal connection to the chassis. Don't know, but I've been using the constant charger strategy. 8 years from the battery suggests this is effective.

The best solution is a "battery maintainer". They keep the battery at a float charge state. The latter is temperature dependent, so the better units have a temp sensor. There are many types available, but the best I've found at reasonable price is this one:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200589669_200589669

It comes with cable clamps, but it also has ring terminals you can install on the battery cables instead, then you simply unplug it before you use the car. I keep one on my tractor, because it goes long periods of time sitting idle.

Dumb trickle chargers are hard on a battery because they continue to supply a small charge after the batter has been topped up.

 

[deadlyapp]

A side bar - an alarm will do nothing to prevent catalytic converter theft unless you have a proximity sensor on your car or vibration sensor. A car as old as yours with stock alarm, there's no chance it has those features. Your car is about as desirable for a catalytic converter theft as a horse would be. As long as you don't keep visible valuables in sight, you've got nothing to worry about.

 

[Muse]

The best solution is a "battery maintainer". They keep the battery at a float charge state. The latter is temperature dependent, so the better units have a temp sensor. There are many types available, but the best I've found at reasonable price is this one:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200589669_200589669

It comes with cable clamps, but it also has ring terminals you can install on the battery cables instead, then you simply unplug it before you use the car. I keep one on my tractor, because it goes long periods of time sitting idle.

Dumb trickle chargers are hard on a battery because they continue to supply a small charge after the batter has been topped up.

That battery maintainer is also available at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2G4RI6?pldnSite=1

My charger/maintainer costs in the same range at Amazon now. I bought it for 1/2 the price maybe 10 years ago or so. I don't think it has a temperature sensor but it does feature charging and maintenance. It senses the state of charge of the battery and cuts back on supplied current so the battery doesn't overcharge. It's a Schumacher SE-1-12S, 1.5Amp "Automatic Battery Maintainer."

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXTUY?pldnSite=1

Mine has jaw-like spring loaded clips that I attach to the positive and negative battery terminals. After attaching positive, then negative, I then plug it into the extension cord.

I have the owner's manual, which is just a sheet of paper, says "the charger contains an electronic control circuit which safeguards against overcharging the battery." There's a red light that indicates it's stopped charging. It goes on and off depending on the state of charge of the battery. It stays on more when the battery has approached full charge. "The red light will stay on for longer periods of time as the battery becomes more fully charged."

I don't leave it in the engine compartment except when the car's parked in my driveway. After I disconnect it, I move the extension cord away from the car and place the maintainer on the floor of the back seat, next to my cheapo multimeter, which I use to check the voltage of the battery before I start up the engine.

 

[Muse]

A side bar - an alarm will do nothing to prevent catalytic converter theft unless you have a proximity sensor on your car or vibration sensor. A car as old as yours with stock alarm, there's no chance it has those features. Your car is about as desirable for a catalytic converter theft as a horse would be. As long as you don't keep visible valuables in sight, you've got nothing to worry about.

It's one reason I have a now beat-up old bicycle. I still U-Lock it in public. I lost one bike because I thought nobody would take it if I left it unlocked for 5 minutes. I try to avoid thief-bait! When I was playing golf (before pandemic) I left my clubs in the trunk, but nobody would know that. They aren't high end or anything either, but good enough! In the passenger compartment I leave nothing valuable.

Your car is about as desirable for a catalytic converter theft as a horse would be.

I'm wondering. A search came up with this:
- - - -
Which cars are least likely to have catalytic converters stolen?

Those with the unit in the engine bay are less susceptible to theft. Older models are more likely to be targeted because their catalytic converters contain far more precious metals than those fitted to the latest cars.

OTOH:

What cars are most targeted for catalytic converter theft?

According to the site's data, Toyota, Honda, and Lexus vehicles are the top targets for catalytic converter thieves right now. In 2020, the most common cars targeted were the Toyota Prius, Honda Element, Toyota 4Runner, Toyota Tacoma, and Honda Accord.

 

[deadlyapp]

It's one reason I have a now beat-up old bicycle. I still U-Lock it in public. I lost one bike because I thought nobody would take it if I left it unlocked for 5 minutes. I try to avoid thief-bait! When I was playing golf (before pandemic) I left my clubs in the trunk, but nobody would know that. They aren't high end or anything either, but good enough! In the passenger compartment I leave nothing valuable.
I'm wondering. A search came up with this:
- - - -
Which cars are least likely to have catalytic converters stolen?

Those with the unit in the engine bay are less susceptible to theft. Older models are more likely to be targeted because their catalytic converters contain far more precious metals than those fitted to the latest cars.

OTOH:

What cars are most targeted for catalytic converter theft?

According to the site's data, Toyota, Honda, and Lexus vehicles are the top targets for catalytic converter thieves right now. In 2020, the most common cars targeted were the Toyota Prius, Honda Element, Toyota 4Runner, Toyota Tacoma, and Honda Accord.

Large, high clearance vehicles, and high production number vehicles are probably the most targeted. Around here, Toyota trucks are especially picked on (Tundra has 4 cats on it). I'm surprised that Honda Elements are targeted because I wouldn't view them as a high production or high value target.

With the high production number vehicles, it's easy to fence them because it's such an easy commodity and nobody would be able to identify their cat vs just some other one, so it's very hard to prove individual theft.

 

[mindless1]

^ IMO it is more likely that these vehicles stay on the road longer, while older tech used more precious metals in cats, but obviously it's also the popularity of certain models too, more targets equals more hits.

Your car is about as desirable for a catalytic converter theft as a horse would be.

Not understanding the thought process here, they are stolen for precious metal scrap value, not to be reused as a whole cat. It's illegal (federal law) to sell used cats for reuse so few if any shops will touch them as a replacement part. Any vehicle that the cat can be removed from in a couple minutes is worth the bother to a thief.

 

[deadlyapp]

^ IMO it is more likely that these vehicles stay on the road longer, while older tech used more precious metals in cats, but obviously it's also the popularity of certain models too, more targets equals more hits.



Not understanding the thought process here, they are stolen for precious metal scrap value, not to be reused as a whole cat. It's illegal (federal law) to sell used cats for reuse so few if any shops will touch them as a replacement part. Any vehicle that the cat can be removed from in a couple minutes is worth the bother to a thief.

Sure, most reputable shops. There are hundreds of little shops in low income neighborhoods that fence used cats like nobodies business.

 

[Muse]

^ IMO it is more likely that these vehicles stay on the road longer, while older tech used more precious metals in cats, but obviously it's also the popularity of certain models too, more targets equals more hits.



Not understanding the thought process here, they are stolen for precious metal scrap value, not to be reused as a whole cat. It's illegal (federal law) to sell used cats for reuse so few if any shops will touch them as a replacement part. Any vehicle that the cat can be removed from in a couple minutes is worth the bother to a thief.

I just read a long thread at my local NEXTDOOR forums site on Cat Converter thieves. The OP observed one happening at 3AM, called the cops, who came really quick. The cop waited for backup and while doing so the culprits scrammed. They were driving a distinctive white truck and several people in the thread said they'd been seeing that truck around. Many stories in the thread about CC theft going on, stolen cars too. Almost no enforcement is going on. The CC thieves just drive away and cops don't pursue. Berkeley, CA. People are fed up and pissed but don't know what to do. Evidently the thieves can even remove a CC that has a theft prevention device, just take the whole tail pipe assembly.

 

[Muse]

Sure, most reputable shops. There are hundreds of little shops in low income neighborhoods that fence used cats like nobodies business.

And they get melted down for the metals or put in cars, presumably cars whose CC's were stolen?

I did a search on CC for my car this morning and came up with a site that will sell me a new one for around $900. I figure likely some other parts would be necessary (maybe). Don't know if I could do the work myself or have to pay a shop. I've had my fingers crossed for a few years.

Anyone looking at my car, the first thing they'd notice is the extension cord going up under the hood. Don't know what they'd make of it. Maybe they'd just realize it was for my battery maintainer. It IS unusual. Might scare 'em off?

 

[PowerEngineer]

Yes, it seems that CC theft is in vogue these days. Thieves stole the catalytic converter from my neighbor's older Prius which was parked in their driveway overnight. A local auto shop also found a man crushed under one of the cars parked in their yard; it seems he was trying to remove the catalytic converter when the jack slipped.

 

[Muse]

Yes, it seems that CC theft is in vogue these days. Thieves stole the catalytic converter from my neighbor's older Prius which was parked in their driveway overnight. A local auto shop also found a man crushed under one of the cars parked in their yard; it seems he was trying to remove the catalytic converter when the jack slipped.

"Karma's a bitch."

 

[mindless1]

Thieves like simple and fast.

The thing about reusing a cat is that most in recent years including for the Mazda in question are an assembly with a mounting flange or two and the thieves more often cut the pipes instead of taking the whole assembly because that is much faster to do, needs only one universal tool (cordless recip saw) then sell to a shady recycler.

Obviously a shady shop could still make that work, (or thieves can sometimes cut before/after the whole assembly depending on clearance to do it fast, including getting it out which is harder the longer it is) but usually they may still need the flanges sourced from somewhere (off the old cat if it went bad instead of stolen), add more pipe to span the gap, weld it up... so there's that extra labor cost plus whatever they want to charge the customer for the cat, when you can get a '97 Mazda 626 2.0L cat for $102.

More Information for AP / EASTERN 642485

I did a search on CC for my car this morning and came up with a site that will sell me a new one for around $900. I figure likely some other parts would be necessary (maybe). Don't know if I could do the work myself or have to pay a shop. I've had my fingers crossed for a few years.

As you can see in the link above, if that's the compatible/part you need, it just bolts on, but the existing bolts may be seized and need cut or ground off, or shear or round off when you try to loosen them, which is common on exhausts that old, and one reason why thieves usually prefer to just cut the pipe.

So, I'd plan on new bolts, and a couple gaskets, one for each end. The one linked above comes with the gaskets. If the thieves cut the rear end of the cat on the pipe further back on the muffler pipe/assembly, then you need a pipe extension there and the flange welded on.

You could cut the flanges off the new cat to do without them but that's an ugly way to go when they're already there, might as well get a universal cat a little cheaper if you're going that route. If there's an O2 sensor downstream of the cat and they cut the pipe after it, then you lost that too, and if they yank on the wiring to it instead of taking the time to unplug it, may need new wire and connector.

 

[Jimminy]

I

That battery maintainer is also available at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2G4RI6?pldnSite=1

My charger/maintainer costs in the same range at Amazon now. I bought it for 1/2 the price maybe 10 years ago or so. I don't think it has a temperature sensor but it does feature charging and maintenance. It senses the state of charge of the battery and cuts back on supplied current so the battery doesn't overcharge. It's a Schumacher SE-1-12S, 1.5Amp "Automatic Battery Maintainer."

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXTUY?pldnSite=1

Mine has jaw-like spring loaded clips that I attach to the positive and negative battery terminals. After attaching positive, then negative, I then plug it into the extension cord.

I have the owner's manual, which is just a sheet of paper, says "the charger contains an electronic control circuit which safeguards against overcharging the battery." There's a red light that indicates it's stopped charging. It goes on and off depending on the state of charge of the battery. It stays on more when the battery has approached full charge. "The red light will stay on for longer periods of time as the battery becomes more fully charged."

I don't leave it in the engine compartment except when the car's parked in my driveway. After I disconnect it, I move the extension cord away from the car and place the maintainer on the floor of the back seat, next to my cheapo multimeter, which I use to check the voltage of the battery before I start up the engine.

I had that shumaker charger. It worked well enough for about 2 years, then died. It had blown a tiny fuze in the ground return. The fuze was tiny like an smd component, and no way to repair it outside a lab. Probably a power surge got it. After that I got a large appliance type surge suppressor, hoping that may help.

 

[mindless1]

^ Fuses don't blow in normal operation, some unusual fault had to happen so unless that fault was accidentally shorting the battery contacts together, the charger most likely had another fault and the fuse just blew to keep it from causing more damage. Little switchers like that, usually blow a transistor or through enough hours of use blow a cap. It still could have been a power surge that blew a transistor or whatever.

However the amazon price for that is absolutely ludicrous at $53, fancy marketing does not counter that all a float charger needs to do is supply the regulated voltage that the battery manufacturer specs for their battery which only requires about $10 worth of parts... add major brand overhead, call it $15. A battery maintainer only needs about 100mA, but if you want more, in the $50+ range you can get 6A+ chargers. I can't see the purpose for that product at that price point... though maybe it's just wacky amazon pricing.

 

[Muse]

I

I had that shumaker charger. It worked well enough for about 2 years, then died. It had blown a tiny fuze in the ground return. The fuze was tiny like an smd component, and no way to repair it outside a lab. Probably a power surge got it. After that I got a large appliance type surge suppressor, hoping that may help.

Oh, OK. I guess if I plug the extension cord into a good surge suppressor the life of the Schumacher is apt to be longer. Thanks!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I try and wonder what it would be like to return to a vehicle from which the catalytic converter had been stolen. Essentially, you start the car and the muffler and exhaust are missing from the equation.

At the moment, my biggest worry would be to have my catalytic converter become so degraded that it needed replacement. But my smog test results -- with engine and exhaust parts and the converter at 192,000 miles -- are way below the permissible limit for the NOx measurement. Or they're low enough at maybe a ratio of 200 to 600 ppm upper limit. I'm expecting to see an improved reading this December for NOx, for the gas I'm using, additives, and minor repairs. It had fluctuated in previous successive years between ~250+ and 125. The same old original heated O2 sensor seems to be doing its job as well.

I suppose any concerns about a theft of my car or its parts are reduced for seldom taking it out at night or not parking anywhere less secure than a busy well-lit grocery store parking lot. That, as well as keeping it in my locked garage, inside a gated community with security codes.

 

[Muse]

I think I may have figured out why I'm popping the hood after the car's sat idle with the Schumacher maintainer on it and (after removing the maintainer) testing the voltage unusually high. I think the Schumacher has gone bad. It has two LEDs. One's green, the other red. The green one lights up when it's supplied with AC. The red one lights when it's stopped charging the battery, i.e. it detects that the battery's fully charged and further charging it would lead to overcharging. I don't think that red LED's turning on anymore.

I popped the hood yesterday and the battery's voltage was 12.97v.

Well, I did my Costco/Trader Joe's run, going a few extra miles so the whole trip would be over 15 miles (give the car some exercise) mostly on the freeway and when I got home, instead of connecting the Schumacher I sorted out my Harbor Freight cheapie trickle chargers and connected the best one to the battery.

I figure to probably buy the one recommended above in this thread by @Jimminy:

BatteryMINDer 1500: 12 Volt-1.5 AMP Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator with SmartTECHnology - Designed for Cars, Trucks, Boats, Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Jet Skis, Golf Carts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7HZ6FC?pldnSite=1

Edit: I ordered it. It's not in stock right now, they indicate I can expect delivery between Sept. 19 and Sept. 23. For some reason, Amazon indicates that this "does not fit" my 1997 Mazda 626LX 2.0L Sedan. It suggests a bunch of other stuff. Why would it not work in my Mazda? Can't imagine why. It has a 12v battery.

 

[mindless1]

^ Parts that "fit" a vehicle have to be added to the database for that vehicle. I wouldn't necessarily expect any *universal* parts to be on the fit list, and some parts are even incorrectly on the fit lists for vehicles they don't fit.

It depends on the charger design, what it considers done charging. Some float/maintenance aka trickle chargers are set up to keep going up to 13.2V, some even 13.5V or 13.8V, but none should keep putting current in past 13.8V in float mode unless it suits a very particular circumstance where the host vehicle has a high sleep current draw.

I'm suggesting that taking the charger off and measuring 12.97V, or especially with it still hooked up and reading 12.97V, isn't necessarily a sign of a problem, but after the charger is disconnected, and ideally disconnected from the vehicle too, for around 1/2 hour, then the battery should be settling down close to 12.6V and stay there if it's both good/viable and disconnected. If the battery stays as high as 12.9V after disconnected for 1/2 hour.... that's not supposed to be possible.

Typical sign of overcharging is it boils (really electrolysis) off the electrolye, so either over the long term the battery needs topped off more frequently, or in the shorter term with enough current and quiet surroundings, you can hear the electrolyte bubbling away. Of course this only applies to flooded cell batteries.