Or use the camo screw system, it sets the spacing and provides a semi hidden screw.
MARKSMAN Pro® - CAMO Fasteners
www.camofasteners.com
I don't see why the picture frame affects the final rip? If you really want to be anal about it, find your center and work from your center, out, and then rip your final two boards to ideally, the exact same width (give or take a quarter inch, but nobody will notice.
Good point. I just read today that you're not supposed to stain/seal PT for months.Remember that fresh pressure treated plank are going to shrink. I personally install my plank tight, and they shrink to about a quarter inch between. Too large a gap will grab a high heal.
I'm just trying to point out that you're doing the job ass backwards and creating a problem that requires a difficult solution. There is a simple answer, there is a simple way to do the job and have it look good.These are fine for even spacing but it doesn't calculate what the spacing needs to be.
And, as I showed earlier, that backside border board sort of needs to stay there and be partially ripped against the house.
I think I have my measurement at (roughly 6mm/.25in). I have off work on Wednesday and will lay the boards out to see if it all matches up.
You can put a divider board down the middle and butt both sides into it. It's a nice look, but you'd lose a foot off of every board.Ok - I will handle/figure out the spacing. Let's move on from that
Let me ask what I think is a more simple question - my entire length is 22ft. I was going to do 12ft and 10ft boards alternating each length from the end so not all the joints ended up on at the same joist. I still feel that aesthetically even 2ft apart might not look ideal. So then I was thinking of going 6ft-10ft-6ft - in essence cutting the 12ft board in half. But then I was thinking "more cuts = bad". So maybe I just stick with the 10 and 12 ft boards?
I'm so over thinking all of this.
ohhh like perpendicular to the field? Damn I didn't think of that. That may class it up a little. you mean run one board down the middle splitting the deck in half.You can put a divider board down the middle and butt both sides into it. It's a nice look, but you'd lose a foot off of every board.
I'm not a fan of all the seams being on two joist, but material is so expensive that tossing out 44' of it is painful.
Or use the camo screw system, it sets the spacing and provides a semi hidden screw.
MARKSMAN Pro® - CAMO Fasteners
www.camofasteners.com
If you split the deck down the middle there are no seams, just butt joints.ohhh like perpendicular to the field? Damn I didn't think of that. That may class it up a little. you mean run one board down the middle splitting the deck in half.
Hmmmm now I gotta think about this.
If I dont do that, I'm leaning towards cutting the 12ft boards down so the not all the seams are just 2 ft apart in the middle of the deck. That's not ideal though to have more board ends, right?
Our deck is roughly the same size as yours. I split it up into three sections. This keeps the butt ends attached to a full joist. You would need to add joists/hangers to achieve this. The deck boards were installed tight 5 yrs ago
Wow...that's pressure treated? Looks much nicer than the stuff we get here.
"cedar tone" PT
I now know why everyone in the trades complains about pure shit lumber. The twists, turns, cupping, cracking in this wood makes it 100xs harder.
I also see why you guys were telling me to not worry about spacing etc. There's gaps where I don't want them, no gaps where I want them. How can anyone build anything straight!?
There are several different versions. I used to have a really nice one, gave it away when I moved. They work very well.Okay, now I have to say that is a neat idea if it works like they claim. I would never have thought about looking for something like that.
In regards to your question on the LED lights, they're hit and miss. Solid colors are better where as the color changing 5050 LED models will lose specific colors. None of them are an install and forget for years. You could get a couple years out of one or it could just die after a few months.
I just realized today that as I started laying down the deck boards yesterday, I forgot to use the tape! I will use it from here on out though. I have it on exterior joists at leastIf it's in the budget, use a foil faced tape to protect the top of the joists. Also take a look at camo screws for putting the new boards down, it's a much cleaner look.