First business rig? Help!

Wandere

Member
Mar 5, 2000
66
0
0
Hiya. I'm slapping together a business rig for a family member and could use a little help.

We're probably going to be starting from scratch...Case, etc. and I'm not sure which CPU/Mobo/RAM combo to consider. The last rig I built was a gaming station -> Soyo Dragon Plus/Athlon XP 1600 / 512 Crucial RAM / 60 gig Barracuda IV / Ti200 / Antec 1030 Case

Have things changed much in a year?

This system has to be *very* responsive in the GUI (XP Pro) and must be able to crunch databases/multitask multiple applications at once. No overclocking for this user. Stability very important.

Price? Looking to spend ~$400 - $600. We'll probably go with AMD...which will be a change for the user but-bang-for-the-buck is important here. AMD not definite, Intel stuff is a possibility.

Things I need:
Mobo
CPU (onboard sound/LAN a plus...maybe video too?)
RAM (is Crucial DDR 2100 still king?)
Case/PSU
CDRW
60+ gig drive (7200 RPM EIDE)

Things I have:
OS
CD-ROM
Keyboard
Monitor
Floppy
Aspirin and bandages of course.
Beer....lots and lots of beer.

I've got a day and a half to do my homework, any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. I know, I know...hitting the search feature now.

Thanks!
 

Lonyo

Lifer
Aug 10, 2002
21,938
6
81
If you want AMD, go with an nForce 2 board, onboard sound, LAN and gfx.
CD-RW - Check LG, nice prices, nice drives.
CPU - Make sure it's a T-bred, go for 2400+ if you have the cash
RAM - If you get a 266FSB processor, you might as well go for PC 2100 DDR, if you get a 333FSB proc, then try for some quality PC2700 to match the speed.
HDD - Western Digital is what I woudl recommend (special edition if possible)
Go for at least a 360w PSU, 400w if you can
Case - Something that looks nice.
 

Bovinicus

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2001
3,145
0
0
What do you need a computer for when you have lots of beer? Hehe, just kidding.

Motherboard - Unfortunately there are no nForce2 motherboards with integrated graphics on the market as of yet. Fortunately, you can still get a board without excellent onboard sound and graphics. I recommend the EPoX 8RDA+. It has onboard sound, ethernet, USB2, and firewire. The stability is excellent, and the cost is good ($115).

Video - If you don't play any games at all, then the Radeon 7000VE will do nicely. It is very cheap ($30-40), and the 2D quality is top-notch. I beleive it has DVD playback capabilities too, but I can't confirm that 100%.

Processor - The Athlon XP 2100+ is the sweet spot in terms of price/performance. For only $90 shipped, you can't go wrong.

Memory - Crucial is still the way to go in my opinion. You can't beat their quality for that price. Whether you get a 333MHz FSB CPU or a 266MHz FSB CPU (The one I recommended), Crucial has you covered. Get 512MB for a really responsive system.

Case - Not too important. Get whatever one is a good price. If there is one area you can skimp, this would be it. I say get one that doesn't include a PSU, that way you can buy your own. This is important to ensure system stability. Also, I suggest at least one intake fan and one exhaust fan for proper cooling.

PSU - I like the Antec Tru series of PSUs. I just got a 330W variant. It's really nice, and pretty quiet too. The 380W one is real nice, and the 430W one will serve you for many years to come. Enermax also makes some nice PSUs which have really strong 12v rails.

CDRW - Lite-On, no question. They are fast, cheap, and reliable. Yamaha is good if you want the disc tattoo or high-quality audio CD writing capabilites; these features come at a cost though.

HDD - I have been looking around, and I really like Western Digital's JB series of drives. I am about to get one myself, once I get some money from an online transaction. Get whatever size you can afford. The 80GB ones are a little over $100.
 

Ilmater

Diamond Member
Jun 13, 2002
7,516
1
0
Originally posted by: Lonyo
If you want AMD, go with an nForce 2 board, onboard sound, LAN and gfx.
Agreed. Take a look at the Asus A7N8X.
CD-RW - Check LG, nice prices, nice drives.
No, Lite-On. I didn't know that there were people on this forum that didn't suggest Lite-On. No, seriously, just take a look at anyone asking for CD-RW suggestions. There are always a suggestion or two for one brand or the other and then 50 suggestions for Lite-Ons. They rule all around; price and performance.
CPU - Make sure it's a T-bred, go for 2400+ if you have the cash
With that budget, you'd be insane to go with a 2400+. Get a 2100+ or save an almighty $13 and go with a 2000+. No, get the 2100+; it's just ridiculous not to.
RAM - If you get a 266FSB processor, you might as well go for PC 2100 DDR, if you get a 333FSB proc, then try for some quality PC2700 to match the speed.
Agreed. Get 256MB or 512MB, depending on your budget. I think that 512 would really help in those large database files, so I'd suggest that if you can. Some Samsung from Newegg.com would be a good idea. I usually suggest Corsair, but not for this system, it's for enthusiast systems.
HDD - Western Digital is what I would (I fixed your typo ) recommend (special edition if possible)
Couldn't agree more. Don't be confused by ATA133. It won't do anything for performance. Stick with WD - I do.
Go for at least a 360w PSU, 400w if you can
Actually, I'd suggest getting a quality PSU rather than a high wattage PSU. An Antec 330 is better than a generic 430. Look for a nice Antec case with an included PSU, the more wattage the better, but you don't have to have anything more than 330W. 300W is stretching it just a little.
Case - Something that looks nice.
Something with an included PSU. It doesn't really matter.

I would also like to suggest thinking ahead about a mouse and keyboard. I have huge hands, so I bought myself a mouse to use at work. The Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3.0a is an EXCELLENT mouse for me. As much as I hate MS and as many times as they've gotten things wrong, they got this one thing right. Otherwise, get a Logitech MX. You'll thank yourself later.
 

Ilmater

Diamond Member
Jun 13, 2002
7,516
1
0
Originally posted by: Bovinicus
Motherboard - Unfortunately there are no nForce2 motherboards with integrated graphics on the market as of yet. Fortunately, you can still get a board without excellent onboard sound and graphics. I recommend the EPoX 8RDA+. It has onboard sound, ethernet, USB2, and firewire. The stability is excellent, and the cost is good ($115).
That might not be a bad idea. Just get either a GF2 MX or GF4 MX (worry about price, not performance). They're more than adequate for what you'll need.
 

CaptnKirk

Lifer
Jul 25, 2002
10,053
0
71
I'll take a shot at this, as I am working out a server system, which would be quite simular:

1) Case - get a size that offers easy access and working area: I like the Cheiftech Aluminum 450W P/S with front USB/Fire ports = $105 Free Freight
Points: A) Steel case costs $75, Aluminum case costs $88 without the P/S. B) I'll bet that the 450W P/S is more than your sysem (and mine) will need.
The aluminum case with the P/S is only $30 more than a bare steel case, and only $17 more than the bare aluminum - and has the front access ports.
Case Link

2) Motherboard - a higher performing motherboard can get more out of a lower performing CPU than a Bottom line motherboard can get from a top CPU.
Points: A) the three top performing motherboard manufacturers are - Asus, Abit, EPoX. Asus is a very common board known for it's stability,
EPoX is the current Overclocking Champion (but not by much), and of course Abit - which over time has shown it's perfromance capabilities.
I'll stay with Abit, as I know I can mildly tweak the BIOS settings and sneak an extra 40% perfomance out of it - without compromising the stability = $99 + $5 freight
My choice for this application would be the Abit KD7 - as it has built in sound, LAN, Firewire, and USB 2.0. (Remember the port on the front of the case?)
Getting the motherboard without sound would only save $15, and there is no way you can get a comparable sound card for $15 as an add on.
Motherboard Link

2A) Heatsink and Fan - Subset to the motherboard. Your CPU depends on this to keep it cool. Failure is catostrophic in nature.
I only use Alpha PAL8045, which is a big chunk of metal, and it needs to attach with 4 ZIF hole standoff mounts, no wimpy clip-on here = $34.99
This aslo will restrict the motherboard applications, as now you have to have a board that has the ZIF mounts adjacent to the CPU socket.
Fatugue, Fatigue, Fatigue: Office environment, constant noise of a fan hissing, blowing, irritating, hate fan, must have QUIET!
Well looks like a Panaflo is in order here, don't want the troops to go Psyco on me - 32 dBa background level 8 hours a day is a bit much,
let's do the inside the case set up as an extraction fan to eject heat and minimize the sound = $6.99
Heatsink Link
Fan Link

3) Memory - Subserviant to the Motherboard and CPU, when a computer starts up and posts, it starts with the memory - no place to compromise quality.
Very responsive and volume of memory, depth of queque, etc. is mostly a memory function. Not sure if you really need the ECC unless you plan to use
it as a multiple system server agent, so lets just go with the PC2100 which is DDR266, but you can go very deep in the Queque volume = $131.39
Qty (3) sticks of 512MB gives you 1546MB of RAM, and thats a lot of depth (But you CAN go all the way to 3.5GB - if you use ECC and money!)
You also have the option to use the more expensive PC2700 DDR333 RAM which gives a memory speed bost of 10% to 15% over DDR266 =S139.49
(Since the PC2700 is only $8.10 higher than the PC2100, a 10% to 15% boost is only $24 higher for purchasing 3 sticks, $394.17 Vs $418.47)
*CAUTION: Even though there is a KT400 chipset on the Motherboard, the DDR400 (PC3000) is not "Official" as there is NO CONTROLING SPEC.
Some companies do not support the function, and those that do are not alowing much depth to the memory banks - limited to 2 banks.
Crucial Memory Link

4) CPU - here's where you get to reap the benifits of getting a GOOD motherboard and Quality memory, you can squeeze much better performance out
of some of the less expensive T'Bred chips that have replaced the Palaminos in the marketplace. Seems that the Higher multiplier L1 bridges aren't
being laser cut to "Lock Them Down" so the highly capable motherboards recognize then and run them at the higher performance settings.
So an XP1700 T'Bred CPU may be recognized and run as if it was an XP2400 or even an XP2600. (Which it was born to be) $ 57.00 XP1800 only $10 more.
XP1700 CPU Link

4) Hard Drive - Mass storage & dependable, your choices are Maxtor and Western Digital, with the performance edge to Western Digital.
The most price effective as far as cost per GB is to the 80GB and 120GB, and the extra 8MB cache is a nice 'speed-it-up' feature.
The 80GB is probably all you would need unless there is a requirement for digital images, pictures, graphic applications, CAD programs, etc.
Oh what the heck, the 120GB is only $159.00, if you downgrade consider it a discount, save maybe $50, costs more than that to add back the 40GB difference.
Western Digital HDD Link

5) CD-RW - How do you beat a Lite-On? A recent 'Top 10' review of the best perfroming CD-RW rated them from the #1 Best to the 10th best
and 6 of those 10 were Lite-on's, 5 being repackage to 'Brand' name items - all BIG names. If you can't match 'em, buy 'em & sell 'em = $50 - $60
Lite-On Link

6) You didn't mention a Video Card - I think you'll need one, as they are not integrated on the motherboard, and aren't that good anyway.
Since this isn't going to be a Hard Core Gamer, lets stick to the basics for good crisp image quality with clear text display.
The Radeon 9000 W/64MB DDR fits the bill nicely, and is only a $73.99 hit, and this DOES have the higher performance capability!
Video Card Link

7) Anythin Else? Yeah - some spiffy round cables to allow better internal airflow, and minimize electrical interferance and cross-talk = $9.75 the set
Round Cable Link

And the damage comes to:
MINIMUM = $ 728.10 1 stick PC2100 memory @ 512MB
MAXIMUM = $ 1039.20 3 sticks PC2700 memory @ 512MB AND better Lite-On.

Well it kind of blows your $600 budget, but gives you a starting point to add to or subtract from.
Lots of range in the middle to play with hard drive and memory combinations, and there is about
a year of configuration upgradability so the technology dosen't go obsolete too quickly.
Expected performance life functionally would be about 5 years, and again - upgradable.



 

Lonyo

Lifer
Aug 10, 2002
21,938
6
81
I meant Lite-On, I just had LG in my mind because that's the best there seems to be in the UK and they both begin with L.
 

Wandere

Member
Mar 5, 2000
66
0
0
Wow...you guys are fantastic...really a big help...tons of time saved now.

I had a secret agenda and most of you confirmed the components I had in mind. Outstanding feedback folks.

Hey, nothing wrong with LG! Their 16x burner beat Lite-on's by a hair in burning options (back in the day of course). Plus, it's a little sexier...that's right, sexiness gets me every time.

So thanks again Lonyo, Bovinicus (nice handle, I'm in Wisconsin), Ilmater (loved "The Tick"), and CaptnKirk.
Good grief, Capt...that a helluva lot of typin'! :Q

Having such little time to research is a bit of a headache but the playing field is much smaller now thanks to your thoroughness and your help.

Thanks again.
 
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