First time WC setup

[NitroTurtle]

I'm trying to put together my first water cooling setup, and I'm looking for some advice. I'd like to put together a single loop to cool my CPU and possibly Chipset (any comments on performance impact?).

So far, from reading other threads here, I'm looking at the following:

D-Tek Fuzion CPU block
MCR220 radiator
MCP655 pump
MCW30 Chipset block


Now for the questions.

I'm looking for a case that will house this setup with little to no modification. I originally planned on getting another p182 for this setup (currently using a p180), but I'm concerned with the amount of room. If an MCR120 would be sufficient, I could probably stick with the p182, but I'm concerned with the performance as I'd like to heavily OC my CPU. I've also looked at the Cosmos, Stacker 810 and T01. Which one of these would work best for my needs, and also be very quiet.

As far as the watercooling accessories, I'm also unsure about the capacity of the equipment I'm looking at buying. The MCP655 seems like it might be overkill for my application. Is there an alternative, or should I stick with it? Also, do I need the MCR220 rad or will a MCR120 work? What about a reservoir? Will something like the MCRES-MICRO work for this?

Thanks in advance!

 

[aigomorla]

Stacker T01 > 810RC in watercooling.

Microres is probably one of the best res's you can buy. Cheap and works very well.

your parts look great for a cpu and nb loop. Make sure you dont get greedy and drop a gpu on it.

655 is never overkill on any h2o system. Overkill is an RD-30.

 

[Mandin62]

not trying to hijack the post but what is better about the T01? Just wondering. I dont see much difference at all. I like using a res vs. a fill port or something similar. I find them to be very easy and in the 810 there are lots of places to mount them. as you can see from the pics i linked to in your last post.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
not trying to hijack the post but what is better about the T01? Just wondering. I dont see much difference at all. I like using a res vs. a fill port or something similar. I find them to be very easy and in the 810 there are lots of places to mount them. as you can see from the pics i linked to in your last post.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0406.jpg

100% internal build.

only lose 2 slots at the bottom so it leaves a lot free up top.

And very little moding was required. You can use a tool called a nibbler even.

The 810, doesnt have a bottom vent. Very difficult if you need to cut that much steel.


Also the T01 has dual psu mounts. So mine is using the top for psu. 810 is only floor mount.

 

[Mandin62]

oh ok. yeah i had to cut a whole in the top of my 810 as well as in the bottom. it wasnt the easiest but it wasnt that bad. yeah i didnt want anything on the outside either. these cases are big enough by themselves with out adding to them on the outside. whats with the placement of your res? is that were it normally is? why dont you just screw it into one of the wholes on the post right by it. maybe its the pic.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
oh ok. yeah i had to cut a whole in the top of my 810 as well as in the bottom. it wasnt the easiest but it wasnt that bad. yeah i didnt want anything on the outside either. these cases are big enough by themselves with out adding to them on the outside. whats with the placement of your res? is that were it normally is? why dont you just screw it into one of the wholes on the post right by it. maybe its the pic.

its an old pic.

most of the gear has been swaped out and i didnt bother retaking pictures.


But it uses the bracket mounts now. When i took that pic, swiftech didnt offer the mounts.

 

[Mandin62]

as aigomorla noted about the T01 you dont lose as much space because you can choose where you want the psu to go. as you can see from the pics on my post, in your other thread, things can get pretty cramped. here is a front shot of how much space my bottom rad and pump take up. I still fit 2 DVD drives, the hard drive cage, and the main panel so its not like i really lost much.

http://i238.photobucket.com/al...Mandin_62/DSCF0990.jpg

aigomorla doesnt the T01 have a PSU support rack on the top? does that come off or is it permanent?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
as aigomorla noted about the T01 you dont lose as much space because you can choose where you want the psu to go. as you can see from the pics on my post, in your other thread, things can get pretty cramped. here is a front shot of how much space my bottom rad and pump take up. I still fit 2 DVD drives, the hard drive cage, and the main panel so its not like i really lost much.

http://i238.photobucket.com/al...Mandin_62/DSCF0990.jpg

aigomorla doesnt the T01 have a PSU support rack on the top? does that come off or is it permanent?

Why didn't you just mount that second radiator on the rear. You would have had to cut out the factory fan mounts and either make your own or use a RadGrillz mount but, that way you wouldn't have had to chop up the floor and worry about clearance with the PSU.

 

[Mandin62]

i thought about that, mounting the rad on the back. i just didnt like how it close it would have been to the mobo, i dont think i could have done the vreg with it there. and after figuring out how i wanted my loop to run i decided that the bottom made more sense. and it really wasnt that bad, i was able to use some of premade holes. the clearance isnt bad either i measured alot and i have it placed far enough forward that its not an issue. my pump as you can see sits above my bottom rad so that made it alot easier then having to floor mount my pump. my loop goes pump > cpu > gpu > vreg > rad > nchipset > rad > res > pump. and well the placement of top and bottom made this loop a lot easier. just like the OP i wanted a good overclock so thats why i have both the CPU and NChip placed as close to after rads as possilbe. so they get the nice cool water, i hope.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

It would cost some money but, buying a second pump and reservoir and breaking it off into two loops would probably improve your temps and overclock. Run CPU and Chipset on one and VGA and vRegs on the other. The VGA doesn't get much advantage from running cooler in terms of overclock and the vRegs probably put out more heat than the chipset depending on what voltage you're running the CPU at.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Mandin62

aigomorla doesnt the T01 have a PSU support rack on the top? does that come off or is it permanent?

it can take it at the top or bottom.

Comes with a dual PSU adaptor also.

I like top mounted psu, and floor mounted radiators, because top mounted radiators can be a SERIOUSLY PITA to bleed.

Also by physics alone, the air at the bottom is cooler then the top.

 

[Mandin62]

my temps and overclock are good, i think, 3.4 CPU i had it at 3.5 but i had some random crashes so i backed it off, never above 40C. and as i mentioned before GPU never above low 30'sC so yeah i am happy with it. thanks for the advice. but i dont think i am going spend anymore money on this one. its cost enough as is. and i am more then happy with look and performance. and as far as the air is cooler on bottom thats why i have one down there too and with 7 120mm fans i think i have enough air moving around in there to keep things pretty cool.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
my temps and overclock are good, i think, 3.4 CPU i had it at 3.5 but i had some random crashes so i backed it off, never above 40C. and as i mentioned before GPU never above low 30'sC so yeah i am happy with it. thanks for the advice. but i dont think i am going spend anymore money on this one. its cost enough as is. and i am more then happy with look and performance. and as far as the air is cooler on bottom thats why i have one down there too and with 7 120mm fans i think i have enough air moving around in there to keep things pretty cool.

hehe.. then you need to keep away from the forums...

Or something like this might make you go hmmmm...
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0871.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0874.jpg

 

[Mandin62]

what did you do to those poor blocks? I know my limits and well i dont feel the need to really push it that much. I would have mine stuff clocked higher but i can get it stable and i think my temps are not in a zone where that stuff should happen. and if it does...back to air for me...maybe, water cooling is fun.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
what did you do to those poor blocks? I know my limits and well i dont feel the need to really push it that much. I would have mine stuff clocked higher but i can get it stable and i think my temps are not in a zone where that stuff should happen. and if it does...back to air for me...maybe, water cooling is fun.

Yes, come back from the dark side! Join us in the fight against the H, the 2 and the O!

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Mandin62
what did you do to those poor blocks? I know my limits and well i dont feel the need to really push it that much. I would have mine stuff clocked higher but i can get it stable and i think my temps are not in a zone where that stuff should happen. and if it does...back to air for me...maybe, water cooling is fun.

lol...

those are just tops for pumps.

AS i said, you can tune almost every eq in h2o. You just need to know what it takes to tune them.

There is a D5 top coming out from EK soon. Were all anxiously waiting on that.

D5= MCP655 the big one.


And usually when people get a setup done correctly, you cant stop touching it, until you realize how big of a hole your wallet has now. :T

The first top i showed you is a dual DDC top.
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0872.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0871.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0870.jpg

Unfortunately i dont have pictures with the DDC's inside. All this was sent to a friend yesterday to run precise messurements on for reference. :T
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0879.jpg

He has a couple other things that are mine. Martin, is someone who we think may become a person like bill adams in the future. Also should be the largest repository for h2o database any forum has seen yet.


But yeah i have the dual DDC's to go with it.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: aigomorla

Originally posted by: Mandin62
what did you do to those poor blocks? I know my limits and well i dont feel the need to really push it that much. I would have mine stuff clocked higher but i can get it stable and i think my temps are not in a zone where that stuff should happen. and if it does...back to air for me...maybe, water cooling is fun.

lol...

those are just tops for pumps.

AS i said, you can tune almost every eq in h2o. You just need to know what it takes to tune them.

There is a D5 top coming out from EK soon. Were all anxiously waiting on that.

D5= MCP655 the big one.


And usually when people get a setup done correctly, you cant stop touching it, until you realize how big of a hole your wallet has now. :T

The first top i showed you is a dual DDC top.
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0872.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0871.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0870.jpg

Unfortunately i dont have pictures with the DDC's inside. All this was sent to a friend yesterday to run precise messurements on for reference. :T
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0879.jpg

He has a couple other things that are mine. Martin, is someone who we think may become a person like bill adams in the future. Also should be the largest repository for h2o database any forum has seen yet.


But yeah i have the dual DDC's to go with it.

An EK top for the D5??? What rock have I been under? I'm assuming they're making it for use with their Res'? are they going to make a mount to point it so the inlet is up instead of on the side or are they leaving that up to us? I may actually build a new WC set-up if this top turns out to be a winner.

 

[NitroTurtle]

Okay, I'm about to place my order for my cooling components. So far, I have the following in my cart from Sidewinder..

FuZion Extreme Performance CPU Block $81.89
x2 High Flow Dtek 1/2 ID fittings
Dtek Nozzle Kit
FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set

Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump $79.95

Swiftech MCR220-QP Quiet Power 2X120mm $39.95

Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler $26.95

Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir w/Revised Mounting Kit $16.95

Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 11/16in. OD Laboratory Tubing $2.60/ft


Can I get some help with what else I'm going to need? I know I'll need barbs for the rad, which are recommended? Plastic or metal hose clamps? Also, is this tubing the right stuff and how much should I get (all going in a Stacker T01)? Last, but not least, I need the actual coolant. It seems distilled water is what I've seen recommended, but what if I want it colored?

Thanks in advance for the help, you guys have been an excellent resource.

 

[aigomorla]

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dthiflfi1bst.html

You need 2 for the radiator and 2 for the chipset block. and 2 for the reservior.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html

Use that tubing instead. Its from the same makers of tygon, and the 3603 is going to eventually cloud up anyways.

if you use that tubing all your really need is zipties as clamps.

Also those barbs are very newbie friendly. So even if you over tighten them, the rubber oring doesnt slip off.

I noticed one thing with swiftech tho. You may run into it or may not. If the barb's base doesnt fit inside to seal the area ver well, double up the oring. Meaning slip the ones that it comes with on the plastic barbs, and use those on the metal ones with the stock metal oring.


Im assuming your going to use distilled straight?

 

[NitroTurtle]

Thanks Aigomorla.

I added the 6 barbs and then changed the tubing. I just went ahead and got 10' since it was a lot cheaper than the other I was looking at, and I figure that should be plenty.

Thanks for the heads up with the Swiftech issue. I could see that causing me a lot of trouble. I assume this is something to watch out for on all three of the Swiftech parts?

As for the coolant, I'm pretty clueless honestly. I'm assuming I just use distilled water with something like this? Performance is my first concern, but it would be nice if it looked good as well

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: NitroTurtle
Thanks Aigomorla.

I added the 6 barbs and then changed the tubing. I just went ahead and got 10' since it was a lot cheaper than the other I was looking at, and I figure that should be plenty.

Thanks for the heads up with the Swiftech issue. I could see that causing me a lot of trouble. I assume this is something to watch out for on all three of the Swiftech parts?

As for the coolant, I'm pretty clueless honestly. I'm assuming I just use distilled water with something like this? Performance is my first concern, but it would be nice if it looked good as well

If you want a little extra bling sure, that stuff will work but, you'll aslo need soemthing to prevent algae build-up. Some basic anti-freeze is about the best bet there. It's alcohol based.

 

[NitroTurtle]

Alright, I placed my order. I appreciate everyone's help here. I'll probably be posting next week when my parts come and I try to put this all together

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: NitroTurtle
Thanks Aigomorla.

I added the 6 barbs and then changed the tubing. I just went ahead and got 10' since it was a lot cheaper than the other I was looking at, and I figure that should be plenty.

Thanks for the heads up with the Swiftech issue. I could see that causing me a lot of trouble. I assume this is something to watch out for on all three of the Swiftech parts?

As for the coolant, I'm pretty clueless honestly. I'm assuming I just use distilled water with something like this? Performance is my first concern, but it would be nice if it looked good as well

If you want a little extra bling sure, that stuff will work but, you'll aslo need soemthing to prevent algae build-up. Some basic anti-freeze is about the best bet there. It's alcohol based.

yikes... i would hold off on the fesser one for now.

Its not all its cracked up to be so far. Im hearing of there dyes fading really quickly and being absored into the tubing.

Also leaving traces of mystery gelly in blocks, like how swiftech hydrX does. Other sorts of things..

I was going to recomend some pentosion. But sidewinders doesnt carry it.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Pentos...lant-Blue-pr-3707.html

And theres also Red.

With USPS shipping its 3.50+5.95 :\

Avoid the Dyes at the moment expecially promochill dyes. Its nothing like there premixed liquid which is actually pretty good.


EDIT: if you want to get dyes id have to link you to petras. Use one of there dyes. They only have a limited amount of color for a reason.

 

[NitroTurtle]

Alright, it's all here now! Well, almost, since I went ahead and ordered the Pentosin coolant and it's being sent USPS and the reservoir was out of stock so it's still on the way.

Anyways, I'm now sitting here with a bunch of parts, and even more questions. So, I'm hoping I can get some more help as I work through this project.

First thing I did was try to size up where I wanted to mount the radiator. Since it's the largest component, I figured I should probably work around it's location. Initially I intended to use the vent on the bottom of the Stacker T01 case for the radiator. I'm having second thoughts about that now, as it looks like it's not wide enough to allow airflow over the whole radiator. The other issue, is I either end up pulling air in from the ground below along with any dust on the floor, or I end up blowing warm air from inside the case over the radiator. So I'm not sure if I want to mount it here or not. I've been playing with the idea of mounting it behind the front drive bays, vertically, but it's going to be a very tight fit. It will fit, however, it would be easier to orient it with the outlets on the bottom. Will this cause issues with air getting trapped in the top of the radiator? Where would you guys suggest mounting for best performance?

My next question, is where do I start with my assembly? I assume I put the waterblocks on the board first, then install the board, and then connect the tubing and other components. But, this means I'll be leak testing with the board in the way, risking getting it wet. Is this something to worry about, or is this just the process?

Another thing I'm not quite sure about is these nozzles. I know Aigo mentioned above to add additional o-rings on the D-Tek nozzles when connecting to the Swiftech components. It appears that both the radiator and chipset block (don't know about the reservoir, its still on the way) have insets for o-rings on their surface. The nozzles I got, also have a ridge around the edge of the o-ring. I remember reading in another post that this configuration could cause issues with sealing, since the ridges will bottom out against each other and not correctly compress the o-ring. The o-ring that came with the plastic nozzles, appears larger, and fits on the D-Tek nozzles kinda funky, but it looks like it might do the job at sealing them. Is this what I should do, just use those larger o-rings in addition to the D-Tek nozzle o-rings, and tighten it down?

Alright, last question here. How do I want to setup this system, as far as placement, to make it easiest to maintain and also good performance? So far, I'm thinking something like this: Rad > Pump > CPU > Chipset > Res > Rad. I was also planning to make the res the highest component, so the air could easily bleed out of the system (hence my concerns with the vertical rad placement). Will I also need a T-line somewhere down lower to drain the system later to change coolant? Could I leave enough slack in the lines running to the res so it could be lowered below the other components?

Again, thanks in advance for the answers. I know I could probably just learn all of this through trial and error, but it's great having experienced people help who have already gone through the process. I'm going to be taking a bunch of pics as I build the system, and will post them as I go so everyone can vicariously enjoy my fun project.



Edit: Here are some pictures I just took of a few things I mentioned. I know the quality of the nozzle shots sucks, but hopefully you can kinda see what I'm talking about.

http://i264.photobucket.com/al...itroTurtle/onering.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/al...oTurtle/bothrings1.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/al...oTurtle/bothrings2.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/al...troTurtle/radfront.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/al...itroTurtle/radback.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/al...roTurtle/radbottom.jpg

 

[aigomorla]

okey...

First and formost thing. RINSE YOUR PARTS! CLEAN the radiator out. Hot water is all thats needed for a new radiator. Boil some h2o, and then let it sit out for 5 min so its not still boiling. Then flush your radiator out with hot water. Then rince with DISTILLED so you dont get any impurities stuck inside.

i havent personally tried a dtek barb because i prefer the eks.

but if i remember correctly, the d-tek barb should fit without oring on the swiftech parts. I just told you to besure it does.

screw in the barbs without the 2nd oring. Plug one hole and blow in the other. If you cant push air out, its sealed. If you notice your leaking air then its not.

BTW... dont inhale... exhale.

You can first run leak test your parts piece by piece this way. If its air tight it has to be water tight.


Now, mini loop time. If you have spare tubing you can string all the parts outside and run it on a mini loop.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0386.jpg

This would only test the parts to see if it leaks. The blow method is just as good tho.


Install the blocks first on the board. Mount the board and do your cable management. Then you want to loop up your parts. Reason is it gets much more difficult to do cable management when you have tubing in the way.


Okey if you did the mini loop or the blow method, then you know your parts are sealed. So if it leaks, it means its either bad tubing, [very rare] or you loosened a barb when putting on tubing. Make sure you use hot water in a thermos or some form of starbucks coffee mug.

After you loop everything up you need then wrap the barb area with bathroom tissue paper. Tissue paper by nature disolves in h2o. So it makes it easier to see if your leaking then vs. a paper towel. This is why i prefer tissue paper. Just wrap a little around the barbs to see if your leaking or not.

This is also your bleeding and leak test process. Let the system run for at least 6-8 hours to get rid of all bubbles, and for a good leak test.

Now your question about the radiator placement.. vertical with barbs on the bottom is prefered. The bleeding is much easier that way.


Get ready to have a lot of fun. Remember to revisit my sticky. It has tricks on how to jumpstart your PSU without it plugged into the mobo for leak testing. Also remember some psu's have a min voltage requirement, so it might be a good idea to have a hard drive or optical or even fans connected with the pump.

Good luck! and let me know if you run into problems.