Honda Accord Diesel

[vi edit]

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: vi_edit

You also have alternative fuels like biodiesel that can be blended in(20% without needing mods and 100% with specialized engines) reducing that gap between barrel yields.

wrong....

you can run 100% BD in a diesel engine today (and it won't void the warranty on VW's) without mods...you need to change your fuel filter after the first tank, but then you are fine.

It's 100% Veggie oil (not converted to BD) that you need conversion/mods for.

This site doesn't agree with that:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_f..._Above%20_20_Final.pdf

There are significant things that happen to the properties of biodiesel once you go past B20 blends.

 

[Toastedlightly]

Originally posted by: vi_edit

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: vi_edit

You also have alternative fuels like biodiesel that can be blended in(20% without needing mods and 100% with specialized engines) reducing that gap between barrel yields.

wrong....

you can run 100% BD in a diesel engine today (and it won't void the warranty on VW's) without mods...you need to change your fuel filter after the first tank, but then you are fine.

It's 100% Veggie oil (not converted to BD) that you need conversion/mods for.

This site doesn't agree with that:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_f..._Above%20_20_Final.pdf

There are significant things that happen to the properties of biodiesel once you go past B20 blends.

One instance is that the biodiesel has strong solvent properties. All rubber / plastic should be replaced with metal lines and the like. Then, one must also be aware that bio has a very high gelling point (from 20-40*f).

 

[nweaver]

That paper only says they haven't tested above 20% long term, not that you cannot. I know several people who run 100% all summer long with no problems (and have for several years).

The biggest problem with 100% is that it has poor cold flow properties, so in the winter, it wouldn't work (as is, they are working on anti-gel additives, and most folks slip down to B20 levels during the winter)

 

[nweaver]

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: vi_edit

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: vi_edit

You also have alternative fuels like biodiesel that can be blended in(20% without needing mods and 100% with specialized engines) reducing that gap between barrel yields.

wrong....

you can run 100% BD in a diesel engine today (and it won't void the warranty on VW's) without mods...you need to change your fuel filter after the first tank, but then you are fine.

It's 100% Veggie oil (not converted to BD) that you need conversion/mods for.

This site doesn't agree with that:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_f..._Above%20_20_Final.pdf

There are significant things that happen to the properties of biodiesel once you go past B20 blends.

One instance is that the biodiesel has strong solvent properties. All rubber / plastic should be replaced with metal lines and the like. Then, one must also be aware that bio has a very high gelling point (from 20-40*f).

That is only an issue with older vehicles, all modern vehicles have rubber/hoses that are fine. You DO have to replace your fuel filter after the first tank, as it really cleans stuff up. The gelling point is the biggest problem right now.

 

[Toastedlightly]

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: vi_edit

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: vi_edit

You also have alternative fuels like biodiesel that can be blended in(20% without needing mods and 100% with specialized engines) reducing that gap between barrel yields.

wrong....

you can run 100% BD in a diesel engine today (and it won't void the warranty on VW's) without mods...you need to change your fuel filter after the first tank, but then you are fine.

It's 100% Veggie oil (not converted to BD) that you need conversion/mods for.

This site doesn't agree with that:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_f..._Above%20_20_Final.pdf

There are significant things that happen to the properties of biodiesel once you go past B20 blends.

One instance is that the biodiesel has strong solvent properties. All rubber / plastic should be replaced with metal lines and the like. Then, one must also be aware that bio has a very high gelling point (from 20-40*f).

That is only an issue with older vehicles, all modern vehicles have rubber/hoses that are fine. You DO have to replace your fuel filter after the first tank, as it really cleans stuff up. The gelling point is the biggest problem right now.

Thats where the "no long term testing has been done" thing comes into play. I personally would run 100% BD (hell, I am minoring in Bio based product engineering) but I don't recommend it for those who lack mechanics knowledge and have a willingness to deal with problems.

 

[nweaver]

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: Toastedlightly

Originally posted by: vi_edit

Originally posted by: nweaver

Originally posted by: vi_edit

You also have alternative fuels like biodiesel that can be blended in(20% without needing mods and 100% with specialized engines) reducing that gap between barrel yields.

wrong....

you can run 100% BD in a diesel engine today (and it won't void the warranty on VW's) without mods...you need to change your fuel filter after the first tank, but then you are fine.

It's 100% Veggie oil (not converted to BD) that you need conversion/mods for.

This site doesn't agree with that:

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_f..._Above%20_20_Final.pdf

There are significant things that happen to the properties of biodiesel once you go past B20 blends.

One instance is that the biodiesel has strong solvent properties. All rubber / plastic should be replaced with metal lines and the like. Then, one must also be aware that bio has a very high gelling point (from 20-40*f).

That is only an issue with older vehicles, all modern vehicles have rubber/hoses that are fine. You DO have to replace your fuel filter after the first tank, as it really cleans stuff up. The gelling point is the biggest problem right now.

Thats where the "no long term testing has been done" thing comes into play. I personally would run 100% BD (hell, I am minoring in Bio based product engineering) but I don't recommend it for those who lack mechanics knowledge and have a willingness to deal with problems.

There have been enough that I think it's OK to run myself. My in laws are thinking of going BD for the farm...they can raise crops for oil, so no cleaning required, and there are several commercial processors that you can buy, or you can DIY (which is what they would likely do)