IP35-E No Post Woes

[tguard50]

I had been runing an IP35-E system happily for a couple months. The only problem to arise is that a few times I had to clear the CMOS in order to boot the system because I was receiving no signal to my monitor, though my entire system seemed to turn on (but not booting into windows). I have read that others have had this problem - the "cold boot," but mine was fixable with clearing the CMOS or simply turning off the power to to the power supply and then trying again.

Ever since a month or so ago, I've had major problems. I have received the no signal to my monitor upon booting, its just not posting. The video card fan is on, all the fans are on, both the red and green LED work on the mobo, but i get no signal.


I tried everything. I removed everything but one stick of RAM, mobo, processor and heatsink, and video card (I still kept it in the case). I swapped my RAM through each DIMM slot. I did a deep reset and countless CCMOS. Finally, just by random luck, I got the thing to boot into BIOS and was able to change my Vdimm back to 2.2 and everything worked again.


Fast forward a month.
While I was gone for the weekend, my wife tried to get on the computer and was unable due to a BSOD that must have occurred while the computer was idle. She turned it off and then back on and went to the same BSOD. Then she turned it off and gave up. Now when I have tried to boot it, I am getting the same issue as before - everything is turning on in the pc (green light on mobo included), but its not posting. I've cleared the CMOS, done a deep reset, moved the RAM around to each slot - none of its working.



Looks like my ip35-e is junk. Any ideas?


System Specs:

IP35-E
Corsair 550 VX PSU (I've read bad things about combining the ip35-e and corsair PSUs)
E2180 (OCed to 3.2 at 1.4v)
2 GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400
EVGA 8800GT
250 GB Seagate Barracuda
Xtreme Gamer Sound Card

 

[Heidfirst]

afaik there have been no problems on IP35s with the CWT oem'ed Corsair PSUs, only the Seasonic oem'ed & yours is a CWT.
Have you tried with only 1 DIMM installed?

 

[tguard50]

Originally posted by: Heidfirst
afaik there have been no problems on IP35s with the CWT oem'ed Corsair PSUs, only the Seasonic oem'ed & yours is a CWT.
Have you tried with only 1 DIMM installed?

yes - and in each DIMM slot, then I tried the other stick - still nothing.

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: tguard50
I have read that others have had this problem - the "cold boot," but mine was fixable with clearing the CMOS or simply turning off the power to to the power supply and then trying again.

What is the average temp of the room your PC is in?

Have you always run 2.2v on your RAM? Was that @ 1:1 or @ 1:1.25 divider?

Ever run memtest86+ to verify your RAM was error free at stock and again at the OC setting when the system was previously working?

 

[tguard50]

Originally posted by: brencat

Originally posted by: tguard50
I have read that others have had this problem - the "cold boot," but mine was fixable with clearing the CMOS or simply turning off the power to to the power supply and then trying again.

What is the average temp of the room your PC is in?

Have you always run 2.2v on your RAM? Was that @ 1:1 or @ 1:1.25 divider?

Ever run memtest86+ to verify your RAM was error free at stock and again at the OC setting when the system was previously working?

I'd say 75-80 degrees is the average temp of my room.

I've always run 2.2v on my RAM and used the 1.25 divider until this issue started happening a month ago. Then I switched to 1:1 and everything was peachy.

Never ran memtest, I would now if I could but I can't get it to post. I don't have any spare ram so unless I pick some up to test if memory is my problem, I'm SOL

 

[brencat]

My first suggestion is to see if you can borrow 1 stick of RAM from a buddy and throw it in there alone and see if your PC boots. Make sure you use jedec spec RAM that can boot at 1.8v (that means avoid OCZ). If no one will loan you a stick, RAM is pretty cheap these days and you can probably pick up some of that HP/Crucial value stuff for ~ $10 per 1gb stick.

I would be shocked if both your Ballistix went bad. Then again, you did use 2.2v for months which btw is wholly unnecessary at 400mhz, despite what the rated voltage is on the package. I have all 4 slots filled with the same RAM and only use 2.05v @ 406mhz. And when I had only 2 slots filled, only 1.9v was required for stability.

Next time, be sure to test your RAM with memtest86, and use the minimum amount of vDIMM you can get away with for stability.

Anyway, if it continues not to boot with different 1.8v RAM, I'd probably RMA the board.