LS3 A/C compressor seized

[[DHT]Osiris]

Had a nasty surprise today, accompanied by smoke and curse words. Narrowed the problem to the a/c compressor, which is seized. Flywheel spins freely, locks (and stalls the engine) if a/c or heat are engaged. I do not know if it's the everything inside or just something minor that can be reasonably serviced.

I've never had to screw with a serpentine belt, can that be done by someone who doesn't suck at wrenching, but has limited experience under the hood? Can an A/C compressor be replaced without recharging the coolant? Could I save myself money by doing this then letting the shop check my work and top it up?

2010 Camaro, in case anyone knows something dumb about that like 'oh you gotta remove the frame to get that off'.

 

[Steltek]

Don't know if this would help or not. Video is for a 2010 Camaro SS. If there is still any coolant (not likely) it would have to be evacuated.

You would need a vacuum pump and probably a scale and gauges to add coolant back to the AC system once the compressor is replaced. And, it isn't unlikely that when the compressor failed that it grenaded metal particles all over the HVAC system. You'll never get all of that out of the dryer, condenser, or evaporator no matter how much flushing you do. So, you almost have to end up replacing everything to keep the vehicle from killing every new compressor you put on it.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Don't know if this would help or not. Video is for a 2010 Camaro SS. If there is still any coolant (not likely) it would have to be evacuated.

You would need a vacuum pump and probably a scale and gauges to add coolant back to the AC system once the compressor is replaced. And, it isn't unlikely that when the compressor failed that it grenaded metal particles all over the HVAC system. You'll never get all of that out of the dryer, condenser, or evaporator no matter how much flushing you do. So, you almost have to end up replacing everything to keep the vehicle from killing every new compressor you put on it.

My God! The possibility concerning the metal particles sounds like a nightmare! My own AC compressor continues to work fine -- in a vehicle with 203,000 miles on the odometer. Should I actually go pro-active on this, and simply replace the compressor before such a disaster occurs?

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Don't know if this would help or not. Video is for a 2010 Camaro SS. If there is still any coolant (not likely) it would have to be evacuated.

You would need a vacuum pump and probably a scale and gauges to add coolant back to the AC system once the compressor is replaced. And, it isn't unlikely that when the compressor failed that it grenaded metal particles all over the HVAC system. You'll never get all of that out of the dryer, condenser, or evaporator no matter how much flushing you do. So, you almost have to end up replacing everything to keep the vehicle from killing every new compressor you put on it.

Was just watching that video. The info about the fragmenting bits is good, was hoping something like that wasn't the case and something just freezed/welded itself together in there.

 

[Steltek]

I learned that lesson the hard way with my old 1994 C1500 Silverado. Mechanic kept replacing the compressor, which would last about 2 to 2-1/2 years or so before dying. It had a lifetime warranty, but I was on the hook for paying the labor and materials to replace it. R134A is getting expensive now that they are phasing it out.

I then only figured out about the metal fragments when I was examining the hoses after it locked up on the road and I had to remove the compressor in order to get home. You know someone is used to it when they have a bypass bracket and belt that they keep in the truck under the back seat.....

Suffice to say, that guy isn't my mechanic anymore. I haven't replaced the compressor yet as I plan to replace everything at the same time. My hang up at this point is the evaporator core, as it is inside the dashboard (which is brittle to the point where disassembling it would destroy it).

I'm seriously debating with myself to just buy the tools and replace it all myself.

 

[Steltek]

My God! The possibility concerning the metal particles sounds like a nightmare! My own AC compressor continues to work fine -- in a vehicle with 203,000 miles on the odometer. Should I actually go pro-active on this, and simply replace the compressor before such a disaster occurs?

If it is working well, I wouldn't replace it. Just keep an eye on it -- if at some point it seems to not be cooling well, that is a warning sign to make sure to have it checked out. They generally don't fail catastrophically until the coolant and oil lubricants have leaked out.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

I learned that lesson the hard way with my old 1994 C1500 Silverado. Mechanic kept replacing the compressor, which would last about 2 to 2-1/2 years or so before dying. It had a lifetime warranty, but I was on the hook for paying the labor and materials to replace it. R134A is getting expensive now that they are phasing it out.

I then only figured out about the metal fragments when I was examining the hoses after it locked up on the road and I had to remove the compressor in order to get home. You know someone is used to it when they have a bypass bracket and belt that they keep in the truck under the back seat.....

Suffice to say, that guy isn't my mechanic anymore. I haven't replaced the compressor yet as I plan to replace everything at the same time. My hang up at this point is the evaporator core, as it is inside the dashboard (which is brittle to the point where disassembling it would destroy it).

I'm seriously debating with myself to just buy the tools and replace it all myself.

If it did shed bits into the line, would it be obvious when I yanked the old one? Like if I pulled it and it jingles, that would be an obvious sign, or debris was visible in the line input/output... Any other way?

Could I clear it with compressed air once the compressor is off?

 

[pcgeek11]

Many vehicles have a filter in the line going to the TXV and the evaporator to prevent metal fragments from entering. The rest of the system would need to be flushed or replaced to get rid of the contamination.

This is an example of the filters from a Tacoma Truck.

Contaminated from a compressor grenade event.



Below is a comparison between a new and a contaminated filter.

 

[NutBucket]

If the compressor seized, gotta do the whole system.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

If the compressor seized, gotta do the whole system.

Does 'whole system' include the lines? Or just the condenser?

 

[Steltek]

If it did shed bits into the line, would it be obvious when I yanked the old one? Like if I pulled it and it jingles, that would be an obvious sign, or debris was visible in the line input/output... Any other way?

Could I clear it with compressed air once the compressor is off?

In my case, I could actually see it by wiping a clean white rag into the end of the lines. However, it depends upon how particularized the fragments are.

You'll never be able to get it all out of the system. Even a TXV filter isn't going to catch everything. I don't know if your car has a TXV filter per @pcgeek11 's post above (I think it probably has an expansion valve behind the dashboard, but I don't know if the valve actually has a filter in it).

Does 'whole system' include the lines? Or just the condenser?

He means everything. No reputable shop would even consider warranting their work without doing this.

 

[pcgeek11]

If mine blew up I would replace everything external except the lines which can be flushed and cleaned. Compressor, Condenser, Dryer etc...

IF it has a filter inline to the supply the TXV and Evaporator I would just have them flushed clean. Usually the dash has to be removed to get to the Evap and TXV.

IF the TXV can be removed ( like my Tacoma ) without removing the dash I would replace it also.

As for this statement:

He means everything. No reputable shop would even consider warranting their work without doing this.

That is absolutely the truth. I was speaking strictly if I were doing the work myself on my own vehicle.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

In my case, I could actually see it by wiping a clean white rag into the end of the lines. However, it depends upon how particularized the fragments are.

You'll never be able to get it all out of the system. Even a TXV filter isn't going to catch everything. I don't know if your car has a TXV filter per @pcgeek11 's post above (I think it probably has an expansion valve behind the dashboard, but I don't know if the valve actually has a filter in it).




He means everything. No reputable shop would even consider warranting their work without doing this.

If mine blew up I would replace everything external except the lines which can be flushed and cleaned. Compressor, Condenser, Dryer etc...

IF it has a filter inline to the supply the TXV and Evaporator I would just have them flushed clean. Usually the dash has to be removed to get to the Evap and TXV.

IF the TXV can be removed ( like my Tacoma ) without removing the dash I would replace it also.

As for this statement:



That is absolutely the truth. I was speaking strictly if I were doing the work myself on my own vehicle.

Great info. Good chance I'll be deleting the compressor then, what a waste.