My first real project FINISHED!

[WoodButcher]

The RF has rubbers for the hard drives. In zepper's thread roofers tape was mentioned, use it on the big panels, sides, top, back of mobo tray, this will dampen the sound of the case. If sound is really a big issue bottom mount the rad and find feet that are 1" or more. Having holes on the top or sides of the case allows more noise out. Cutting out the bottom your modding skills or lack thereof will be less evident.
Here is a pic of my TJ08 w/ a bottom and back mounted rad. This case is so small for this I have the fans and 1/2 the rad below the case. The RF has enough room to do this inside w/o raising any more than needed for airflow. Aigo has or has a setup like this, maybe he will post a pic to give you a better idea.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
I have to disagree with dedwards here. with the proper set-up and enough time spent properly assembling everything there is no reason water cooling can't be just as quiet if not quieter than air cooling. The PA 120.3 is more than capable of cooling a pretty substantial load with very quiet if not silent fans. Proper fan selection can go a LONG way here.

Passive setups will be quieter then water, however the cooling on a passive setup is very limited.

If you raited the same fans on both air and water, water would destory air. No competition.

If you overclocked moderately it would require fans to be set noticibly. You'll hear the huming noise, while this i easily accomplished by water @ near passive solutions.

Its a degree factor. At 0 noise, passive, water cant do that because of the pump. Once you start however scaling up a bit more, you'll see you have way more head room with water then air could possibly even go.

Fans on super high/loud setup on high end air will probably lose to medium fans on medium tier water if you want a real comparison.

 

[Tim]

I suppose that since I plan on taking the two HDD cages out, that I could probably fit a 3x120mm rad in the bottom. That would make more sence to me since it would then be hanging out where the cooler air area of the case would be. I can take the casters off of my Lian-Li v1000 which are about an 1 high and put them on the rocketfish... that would make it a rollingrocketfish

The only problem would be the modding part. I know the top of the rocketfish comes off, and that would make it easier for a first time case cutter, but the bottom? That might be beyond my attempt.

Should I think about sending it out somewhere to be done?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: thepladfad
I suppose that since I plan on taking the two HDD cages out, that I could probably fit a 3x120mm rad in the bottom. That would make more sence to me since it would then be hanging out where the cooler air area of the case would be. I can take the casters off of my Lian-Li v1000 which are about an 1 high and put them on the rocketfish... that would make it a rollingrocketfish

The only problem would be the modding part. I know the top of the rocketfish comes off, and that would make it easier for a first time case cutter, but the bottom? That might be beyond my attempt.

Should I think about sending it out somewhere to be done?

There are a few talented guys in NJ if it comes to that but, to be quite honest the bottom isn't much harder than the top. Just flip the case over and cut it with it assembled. I don't know what material or thickness the bottom is but, I would seriously consider using a jigsaw if it's steel or more than about .7-.8mm aluminum just makes life a lot easier. Also, I would get a radgrillz to match your radiator so you're only cutting one big rectangle and the radgrillz will cover up any small indiscretions in the lines. IMHO, if the lines don't come out looking toonice I would mount the radgrillz to the inside of the case then the radiator on the inside of that with the fans on the top, so make sure there is plenty of clearance, especially if you use the PA radiator as they're pretty thick.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: thepladfad
I suppose that since I plan on taking the two HDD cages out, that I could probably fit a 3x120mm rad in the bottom. That would make more sence to me since it would then be hanging out where the cooler air area of the case would be. I can take the casters off of my Lian-Li v1000 which are about an 1 high and put them on the rocketfish... that would make it a rollingrocketfish

The only problem would be the modding part. I know the top of the rocketfish comes off, and that would make it easier for a first time case cutter, but the bottom? That might be beyond my attempt.

Should I think about sending it out somewhere to be done?

There are a few talented guys in NJ if it comes to that but, to be quite honest the bottom isn't much harder than the top. Just flip the case over and cut it with it assembled. I don't know what material or thickness the bottom is but, I would seriously consider using a jigsaw if it's steel or more than about .7-.8mm aluminum just makes life a lot easier. Also, I would get a radgrillz to match your radiator so you're only cutting one big rectangle and the radgrillz will cover up any small indiscretions in the lines. IMHO, if the lines don't come out looking toonice I would mount the radgrillz to the inside of the case then the radiator on the inside of that with the fans on the top, so make sure there is plenty of clearance, especially if you use the PA radiator as they're pretty thick.

I don't know why I didn't think to look into this before! My cubicle is 20 feet away from our Sheet-Metal shop at the company I work for. I talked to the shop guy and he said that he would help me cut what I needed to cut. He said if the bottom comes off he can put it on the plasma cutter for me and make it nice nice nice. If it doesn't come off, he can still do it nice enough. Looks like I lucked out on this aspect here

Looking at the bottom of the case... if I remove the two HDD cages, is there going to be enough room for the 3x120mm rad? From the pictures of it at best-buy.com and maily the pictures HERE it's kinda hard to tell.. looks like it might come out too close to the PSU.
I think I'm going to cave in and just purchase the case at best buy today for whatever price it's at.

EDIT: The bottom isn't removeable, but it's unfinished so It shouldn't be a problem to strip the case down to its bare frame and then work with that. The top IS removeable though... wonder if I can do anything cool with that without sacrificing the goal of quiet. Any suggestions? Maybe a blow-hole?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

I'd say it's possible but only if you center it and move it all the way forward between the stock feet and get 2" feet for the case and mount the fans on the exterior blowing up through the radiator and put the barbs at the front of the case. The other option I see is to put the radiator at the top and make a duct for it. Your metal guy at work should be able to bend one up pretty easily. something about an inch tall with a taper at the front and open at the back that is the width of the case and has ~3/8-1/2" curled under at the otherwise open bottom should be plenty to duct air into the case if you mount the radiator to the fans then the fans to the case then install this top piece.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
I'd say it's possible but only if you center it and move it all the way forward between the stock feet and get 2" feet for the case and mount the fans on the exterior blowing up through the radiator and put the barbs at the front of the case. The other option I see is to put the radiator at the top and make a duct for it. Your metal guy at work should be able to bend one up pretty easily. something about an inch tall with a taper at the front and open at the back that is the width of the case and has ~3/8-1/2" curled under at the otherwise open bottom should be plenty to duct air into the case if you mount the radiator to the fans then the fans to the case then install this top piece.

The bottom mounting is starting to sound more expensive than I'd like it to be, as I already have 1" lian-li casters I planned on using if bottom mounting the rad. Since the rad/fan assembly seems like it obviously won't fit all inside the case I won't be using those casters I suppose and I'll just stick with the top mounted rad Idea. I'd say do it with a 2x120 rad which we know will all fit inside... but I already ordered a 3x120 rad.

Since I'll be sticking with top mount then, I'm wondering about your ducting idea. Why wouldn't I just do like you originally said and top mount it with the fans inhaleing? I know the guy is willing to make a cut for the rad for me, but I doubt he'd be wild about making ducting, besides that's starting to get a little complicated sounding.

 

[aigomorla]

This is a RadGrill. The radiator fits under it, so you can make a mess of the top without it endup up bad:

MCR and BlackIce Series:
http://www.performance-pcs.com..._290&products_id=22766

PA Series[Has different fan layout so make sure you match radgrill per radiator]
http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermo...l-FG120.2-pr-3430.html [cant find a 120x3 in stock]

Theres many different kinds, and i urge you to price shop as well. The links to stores i provide are recomendations if you cant find a more suitable store.

Just make sure, if it doesnt say thermochill, it wont fit thermochill. And im hearig some swfitech has issues mounting as well.


How does this apply to you?
Because when you hack the top, it can look messy unless you have something to cover it up:

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0838.jpg

The Radgrill would fit on top, with the radiator mounted on directly to the radgrill. You just punch a hole out for the radiator, and pop the grill on and bolt onto the top. Its easy as cake. The hardest part is cutting, but if you take your time, and have the right tools, that is also an easy job as well.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
This is a RadGrill. The radiator fits under it, so you can make a mess of the top without it endup up bad:

MCR and BlackIce Series:
http://www.performance-pcs.com..._290&products_id=22766

PA Series[Has different fan layout so make sure you match radgrill per radiator]
http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermo...l-FG120.2-pr-3430.html [cant find a 120x3 in stock]

Theres many different kinds, and i urge you to price shop as well. The links to stores i provide are recomendations if you cant find a more suitable store.

Just make sure, if it doesnt say thermochill, it wont fit thermochill. And im hearig some swfitech has issues mounting as well.


How does this apply to you?
Because when you hack the top, it can look messy unless you have something to cover it up:

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0838.jpg

The Radgrill would fit on top, with the radiator mounted on directly to the radgrill. You just punch a hole out for the radiator, and pop the grill on and bolt onto the top. Its easy as cake. The hardest part is cutting, but if you take your time, and have the right tools, that is also an easy job as well.

I ordered the mcr320qp rad
I ordered an ACRyan 3x120mm rad-grill to go with it, as well as a danger den derlin fill port
Which fans should I be buying for the rad? (assuming it's top mounted, and is inhaling air into the case, ugh... dust problem)
OR do I top mount it and make the air exhaust out of the top of the case? (not as quiet, little or no dust problems) and if this is the better option, which fans?

I'm guessing from an ealier suggestion Scyth S-Flex Mediums?, just want to be sure.

I'll be buying them from the answers received

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Zalman ZM-F3s or Scythe ultra Kazes. In that order.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
5)Masterclear 7/16"

With that being the tubing choice... I'm assuming that I'm getting 1/2" barbs for the rad?
(I hope so because that's what I just bought)

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: thepladfad

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
5)Masterclear 7/16"

With that being the tubing choice... I'm assuming that I'm getting 1/2" barbs for the rad?
(I hope so because that's what I just bought)

yes. that way the tubing stays in place and seals much better plus it stays in place nicer and you can use regular zip-ties for mounting instead of big old worm drive clamps. You did get dtek, dangerden or bitspower high flow barbs right?

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: thepladfad

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
5)Masterclear 7/16"

With that being the tubing choice... I'm assuming that I'm getting 1/2" barbs for the rad?
(I hope so because that's what I just bought)

yes. that way the tubing stays in place and seals much better plus it stays in place nicer and you can use regular zip-ties for mounting instead of big old worm drive clamps. You did get dtek, dangerden or bitspower high flow barbs right?

I went to the website you showed me yesterday with the rad and purchased it from there with the dtek high flow 1/2 barbs as per your suggestion

Only other question, you still sticking with the fans inhale opinion from before?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Inhaling is always best, gets the coldest air possible through the radiator. If you're top mounting(which it sounds like you are) and you are positive you will have plenty cool air getting to the radiator you can use it as exhaust but, your loop will run warmer, no two ways about it. If you're top mounting are want silence you will need to put something there to stop the sound like the shroud I suggested earlier.

 

[Tim]

The shroud is something I can work on at a later date.
I ordered this as well today
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir Pump Attachment w/ MCP-355 w/ 1/2" ID fittings and the Stand

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: thepladfad
The shroud is something I can work on at a later date.
I ordered this as well today
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir Pump Attachment w/ MCP-355 w/ 1/2" ID fittings and the Stand

Ok, be prepared to isolate that sucker to keep it quiet. thick, soft rubber mat between the mount and the case and rubber grommets between the stand and the pump and don't forget that you have to rotate the pump mount so that the reservoir is on top.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: thepladfad
The shroud is something I can work on at a later date.
I ordered this as well today
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir Pump Attachment w/ MCP-355 w/ 1/2" ID fittings and the Stand

Ok, be prepared to isolate that sucker to keep it quiet. thick, soft rubber mat between the mount and the case and rubber grommets between the stand and the pump and don't forget that you have to rotate the pump mount so that the reservoir is on top.

How about a nice thick old mouse-pad cut down to size, maybe even double'd up?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

kinda dense but, could work.

 

[Tim]

I picked up the case this afternoon at Best-Buy. They still had the price at $96.00 but the girl at the counter told me that if the price drops within 30 days, that I can bring in my receipt and get the difference back. I asked her, "Even on clearance items?" and she said "If it goes on sale within the 30 days you can get the difference back." I hope it drops and that she wasn't just blowing smoke up my bum. I'm going to leave it un-opened in the box in case she didn't know what she was talking about, and if they hassle me about the lower price, I'll just return it and buy it again at the lower price.

Also, I was looking at the EK waterblock today for a bit and I'm definately going to go with the EK Supreme. I noticed that aigomorla earlier stated that he had problems with my specific motherboard with the backplates giving them issues. Since mine has been running fine for over a year, I can just leave the backplate I have on now where it is and mount this EK block to it, it looks like it's a perfect fit by looking at the pictures online.

The EK makes a waterblock for the northbridge (MCP) of my motherboard which is great news, however I'm left scratching my head about what I'm going to do with the southbridge. It's currently connected to the northbridge with a heatpipe, and basically obscured by my 2 video cards. I'm not sure what I'm going to be able to put in its place yet... but I'll look into it. Anyone tackle this problem with the evga 680i motherboard please let me know what your solution was.

I'm going to turn this into a build log I suppose, so anyone interested can keep an eye on it. I'll continue to ask questions and opinions as I go along, so thank you everyone for your input so far.

To recap where I'm at now,

I HAVE:
All of the internal parts like CPU, mobo, ram, etc. (using it now in another case)
I have the case, and these items are ordered and on the way:
Swiftech MCR320qp Radiator w/ 1/2" dtek high flow barbs
Swiftech MCP355 Pump
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir Pump Attachment with 1/2" fittings and Stand
Danger Den Derling Fill-Port (1/2" ID barb)
AC Ryan "Brick" alum. rad-grill
3 Zalman ZM-F3 120mm fans
7 feet of Masterclear 7/16" tubing

I NEED:
1. CPU Waterblock (I've set my mind on the EK Supreme *not the acrylic one)
2. Northbridge Waterblock (EK block *also not the acrylic one)
3. A Southbridge cooling solution (hopefully a waterblock? if not a passive solution that will fit)
4. Sound dampening material for the case (Probably roofing tape, might check with WOODBUTCHER to see what he so unwillingly and vaugly refered to in a post of his earlier as to some rubber sheet stuff)
5. The patience and luck to do this all right for a first timer jumping into a big project

I WANT:
1. Accelero S1 rev. 2 to passivly cool my two 8800gts (g92) cards.
2. A modular power supply... (the one I have now isn't modular, and It's probably pushing the limits as far as power consumption, it's a 600watt one. Although I'll be losing a lot of fan LED's and 1 120mm fan with this project and the pump I have now probably draws more power than the one I'm buying so maybe it will be okay? See link to rig in my sig to see what I'm running now)

.... end of really long post

 

[DerwenArtos12]

What power supply are you using? Does the power supply have to come from the same budget as the rest of the WC gear? Overall I'd say a Corsair 620HX should power your system quite easily, is modular and is a seasonic oem with better component selection than the m12-600 it's based on.

The black top to the EK blocks is Delrin, it's a type of robust acrylic.

Sidewinder has Accelero S1 rev2s in stock last I checked but, probably won't for long.

for the sb you're pretty much limited to a swiftech mcw30 or air cooling AFAIK.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
What power supply are you using? Does the power supply have to come from the same budget as the rest of the WC gear? Overall I'd say a Corsair 620HX should power your system quite easily, is modular and is a seasonic oem with better component selection than the m12-600 it's based on.

The black top to the EK blocks is Delrin, it's a type of robust acrylic.

Sidewinder has Accelero S1 rev2s in stock last I checked but, probably won't for long.

for the sb you're pretty much limited to a swiftech mcw30 or air cooling AFAIK.

Reguarding the power supply. I want modular, but if I can use what I have I will. The one I have is an Ultra V series. 600watt, 165w max on the 5v, 420max on the 12v. etc. It hasn't caused any problems yet, and it looks like the project here will take away 1 120mm fan, the fan on the Northbridge, all the LED's that are on the fans I have now, as well as 2 cold cathode lights.

Here lies the problem with the southbridge. Looking in my case now, it's half of it is under the video card, and the other half peeks out at the top of the video card. I don't see anyway to fit a waterblock there and get the tubes to it. I was able to find a heatsink/fan solution that EVGA actually sells, and from what I'm reading people are saying it fits under every video card just fine.

Read this PDF for the spec on it. 19.8db noise level? Is this going to cause a problem, and I wonder if the fan speed can be lowered.

EDIT: I think I may have found my solution Here, picture of it installed Here.
But I wonder if this will interfere with Accelero s1 rev.2 installed? At this point I'm thinking about ditching the Accelero's and leaving it as is. I notice the fans on my video cards control themselves and are generally running at around 29%. Going to run ati-tool in a moment to see what percentage they run at and if they become too audible.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

the HR-05 should work just fine but the IFX is definately better by quite a measure, I just got one delivered today.

 

[Tim]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
the HR-05 should work just fine but the IFX is definately better by quite a measure, I just got one delivered today.

But why would I need better for a silly ole' southbridge

Edit: Since they're the same price I guess I'll end up with the IFX... I should look before I post sometimes lol

 

[Tim]

Today I purchased:
EK supreme CPU waterblock w/ acetal top w/ 1/2" barbs
EK northbridge block for 680i w/acetal top w/ 1/2" barbs
Thermalright hr-05 SLI/IFX

This brings my total purchases up to $468.92
At this point I don't think I'm going to invest in the Accelero s1 rev. 2's as I'm pretty close to the 500 I wanted to spend, and I've yet to get the sound dampening materials.

A problem has come up. Talking to the sheet metal guy here at work, he wants me to draw out on the top where the holes are going to go, and he wants to use Snips to cut it. This doesn't sound right to me... what other options do I have here? I DO NOT want to botch the top panel of this case up!

 

[aigomorla]

depending on how thick the metal is, the snips might give a cleaner and straighter cut.

I personally use a jiggy for straight cuts. Makes things the easiest when you get the bit ment for thin metal.

messure out the panel thickness and tell the guy you dont want edges to pop out. But any tool you use, if its a saw minus a dremel will cause the edges to pop out a little.

If worse comes to worse and you do botch it:

I think this might fit:
http://www.performance-pcs.com..._387&products_id=22420

Email hank with the exact messurements of your stock one, and he'll tell you if it will fit or not.