New potential water cooling setup

[hsfnewbie]

I've posted here a while ago and now I'm very close to building a new WC setup and just need to stamp out some details.

My future build that i expect to run the loop through:
mobo: Abit IP35-Pro
cpu: E8500 or E8600
case: Silverstone TJ-09 with Radsupport09 (http://www.modernopc.com/store...info&products_id=1202)

For my video card, I am expecting to get the 8800GTS and will just live with its air solution.

My goals:
- Quiet system!
- Will NOT be OCing but possibly in the future. If i do OC, I wont be aggressively OCing

I single handedly picked all of this based on aigomorla's guide as well as extensive reading on the Xtreme systems forum:

CPU block: Dtek fuzion v2
Pump: Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo (9W vs 18W -- will these call cyclone in EK RES?)
T-line: 1/2" OD T-Fitting (for 1/2" and 7/16" ID Tubing)
radiator: HW Labs Black Ice GT Stealth 240
Tube: 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing
Fans: Yate Loon D12SM
Reservoir: either EK-RES150 Rev.2 Multi-Option Reservoir or Swiftech microres... not sure

What do you all think?

My 1 concern about the reservoir is that I am reading that a powerful pump will cause the cyclone effect in those cylindric reservoirs. I am hoping the 9W version of the pump is light enough such that it wont cause that effect. If it does, i might opt to get the 18W version and just go with the Swiftech micro res.

Thanks for your comments

 

[WoodButcher]

.03,,, inflation!
Obviously you have done a little research, have you seen this?? it may give you ideas. 18w pump, and XSPC res top would be my choice recent testing has shown this combination to be the current top dog in it's class.
As you seem to be shipping overseas I would urge you to contact Alex at Petras directly, either by phone or email, list what you have and explain what you want.

 

[aigomorla]

stealth was not ment for quiet operation.

id look at the MCR series from swiftech if you can fit it.

 

[hsfnewbie]

I dont think I will be shipping overseas. I mocked up an order on Petras site, and it says i will be charged tax (CA).

As for the MCR, i dont think I can fit it on the radSupport09 rails. According to Silverstone, only a handful of 2x120 radiators are supported:

1. Black ICE GT Stealth 240
2. RAD Alphacool NexXxoS Pro II - Rev.
3. Magicool 240 D Radiator
4. Magicool 240 mm UV Radiator
5. ThermalTake TMG2

I was thinking of taking replacing the stealth's stock fans with the YL fans (medium)

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: hsfnewbie
I dont think I will be shipping overseas. I mocked up an order on Petras site, and it says i will be charged tax (CA).

As for the MCR, i dont think I can fit it on the radSupport09 rails. According to Silverstone, only a handful of 2x120 radiators are supported:

1. Black ICE GT Stealth 240
2. RAD Alphacool NexXxoS Pro II - Rev.
3. Magicool 240 D Radiator
4. Magicool 240 mm UV Radiator
5. ThermalTake TMG2

I was thinking of taking replacing the stealth's stock fans with the YL fans (medium)

NCIX might also be a nicer place for you to shop since your CA.

They have fairly good prices, and there service is good.


Anyhow MagiCool UV:
http://www.performance-pcs.com..._200&products_id=21619

121x35x227 W D H

BIGTS 240
http://www.frozencpu.com/produ...Red.html?tl=g30c95s160

133 x 29.60 x 277

MCR220:
http://www.performance-pcs.com...9_200&products_id=3653

128 x 34 x 284 W D H


The W x D you shouldnt have any problems. D = thickness.

The problem is the height. Its 7mm longer then the longest radiator, see if thats the reason why it cant fit. Otherwise the MCR is your best option.


Seeing how performance-pcs's has most of it. Email them, and ask hank.

Tell him Aigo (Terry) asked you to email him cuz you had a general question regarding that rad mount and if he can check to see if the MCR will fit.

Hanks a great guy. The store is also great. They also do ship to CA, however give NCIX a try first as they are the same country.


OT: Hank used to be a mod on anandtech also, so he's very helpful to AT members.

 

[HardWarrior]

I'm using 2 18w DDC 3.2's and of the 3 res's I tried with them (slot in, cape bullseye, XPSC premium) only the XPSC dual 51/4 was able to tame the backwash with no vortex. If heavy flow isn't something you want or need, but you still want your Fuzion to get the flow and pressure it needs, get an 18w/micro res and slap it on a rheobus and tune it.

 

[RallyMaster]

Uhh...if you're not OCing, why bother? Get a Scythe Ninja, a quiet case, a couple 140mm fans and call it a day.

 

[hsfnewbie]

I wanted to go WCing for part of the fun of building a WC'ing system. Who knows I might even OC it.

 

[HardWarrior]

Yup!

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Yup!

Me too!

 

[hsfnewbie]

Thanks Aigo, I sent him an email.

Hardwarrior, I looked on the Xtreme forums and it seems the XPS acrylic top res is getting pretty good reviews. But I have to wonder is it good to have the reservoir at the bottom of your loop instead of at the top? I suppose it doesn't really matter since I will probably have a t-line after the pump.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: hsfnewbie
Thanks Aigo, I sent him an email.

Hardwarrior, I looked on the Xtreme forums and it seems the XPS acrylic top res is getting pretty good reviews. But I have to wonder is it good to have the reservoir at the bottom of your loop instead of at the top? I suppose it doesn't really matter since I will probably have a t-line after the pump.

okey the reason why they say res at top pump at bottom is so the pump never runs dry.

Also another reason is because people are afraid your res is going to overflow when you uncork it.

Well, 1. in a closed loop when you uncork a res at the bottom, water will now fall from the top back into the res.

You know why? Because if water was to fall, a vacumn would form and i highly doubt it would be so great to cavitate your tubing. and so on and so on.


So dont worry about the res at the bottom. Expecially with that unit. Because it sits on top of the pump, the pump will never run dry. However make sure you have water up past the tube inside or when you cork it, you'll allow an air bubble to go up tube, and then up to the highest point allowing water to fall down until it gets past that pipe.

Wont be enough to overflow your res, however you'll get a bubble, which means you need to rebleed your system all over again.

 

[WoodButcher]

A little trick I use to make life easier is to run the T-lines and fill lines to my res higher than any other point in my loop. In my new build I used a small T-line that hides inside the closed case but will reach 3-4" over my case. I use a spring clamp to hold it up when filling and it hangs out and away when draining. I used fillports as well but it is still an exersize to fill and bleed the top rad.