Oil Analysis - Actions?

[RPD]

I recently sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs on my '07 Chevy Avalanche. I sent it strictly out of curiousity. When I got the sample while doing an oil change. When I do an oil change I always change the oil filter as well.

So I get the report back and they find I have high wear metals and silicon, but the averages are vs. 5,900miles on the oil and I had 8,627 on mine. I have always gone by the car's oil monitoring and change it around 5-10% of lifetime remaining.

Because of the "excessive" copper and lead should I be overly concerned? My plan of action is to just change the oil and send another sample at 5k miles and see if it improves. I don't do anything that heavy duty, but tow rarely, summers are very hot here (105 and up) and I do go up to ski in the snow about 15 times during the winter (which I use 4x4 in the snow).

The only other variable in my system is the air filter, which I have a permanent/washable one which is recommended to be washed once a year and that year is coming up in January. I'd almost want to not wash so I can determine if it's just the oil being used longer then 5k miles, it's the air filter or a combination of both.

I did have a 35k mile routine service and nothing came up.

 

[LTC8K6]

I would go back to a paper air filter anyway.

 

[MadAmos]

It looks to me like a severe case of K&N filter to me. I would get a OE filter and chuck the oiled one, while you are at it make sure that there are no cracks, loose connections in the intake system including vac leaks. Don't believe me read This test. I have worked in the auto repair business and found if you check any vehicle that uses a K&N or similar filter I will bet you will be able to feel the grit in the intake, try right at the throttle plate area.

Don't know what happened but the link is fixed now. Amos

 

[RPD]

Well I don't have a K&N oiled filter, but something similar. http://www.volant.com/edetail.asp?ID=89&ptype=f Choose this because I didn't want to deal with the oiled part.

Also the link you provided doesn't work.

 

[foghorn67]

Go back to paper/OEM

 

[KentState]

Go back to paper/OEM

This. Unless you are running upgrade engine components that require different air flow, OEM is the best.

 

[Gillbot]

This. Unless you are running upgrade engine components that require different air flow, OEM is the best.

My engine is "heavily" modded and I still made max power with a OEM style paper filter over the K&N.

 

[NickR]

That is a really bad UOA, even for one of those engines. (GM V8s tend to show higher levels of iron and copper than other engines, doesn't mean more wear though, it's just their characteristic).

what oil were you using for that run? If you are running 8k+ OCI, use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, or another quality synthetic. Use a paper air filter, and a Purolator PureONE oil filter. Run 5k miles, change it again. The only real way to tell if there are any problems is to develop a trend analysis. Also, next time, spend the extra $10 and get the TBN done, so we can find out how much of the oil additive pack is left.

 

[KentState]

My engine is "heavily" modded and I still made max power with a OEM style paper filter over the K&N.

I guess it depends. My car's stock airbox tubing and filter actually crumple when running 15lbs of boost. I had to go with an intake.

 

[Throckmorton]

Why do you have an air filter that filters less than a standard paper one?

Also, the oil life monitors are BS.

 

[RPD]

That is a really bad UOA, even for one of those engines. (GM V8s tend to show higher levels of iron and copper than other engines, doesn't mean more wear though, it's just their characteristic).

what oil were you using for that run? If you are running 8k+ OCI, use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, or another quality synthetic. Use a paper air filter, and a Purolator PureONE oil filter. Run 5k miles, change it again. The only real way to tell if there are any problems is to develop a trend analysis. Also, next time, spend the extra $10 and get the TBN done, so we can find out how much of the oil additive pack is left.

I believe it was Royal Purple. I'll do the TBN next sample.

 

[vshah]

I believe it was Royal Purple. I'll do the TBN next sample.

royal purple has a tendency to shear very quickly. I use 5w30 in my civic and its was closer to a 20 weight when I change it,according to Blackstone. They said wear etc. Looked great though.

 

[Gillbot]

I guess it depends. My car's stock airbox tubing and filter actually crumple when running 15lbs of boost. I had to go with an intake.

Why would it crumple under boost? Shouldn't it burst?

royal purple has a tendency to shear very quickly. I use 5w30 in my civic and its was closer to a 20 weight when I change it,according to Blackstone. They said wear etc. Looked great though.

M1 tends to shear quickly as well.

 

[KentState]

Why would it crumple under boost? Shouldn't it burst?


M1 tends to shear quickly as well.

The supercharger is sucking so much air that the intake tubing collapses. This only occurs over 13psi while the stock system is only meant for 8psi the most.

 

[Raizinman]

K&N is just advertising. In comparing a new K&N to an OEM filter, a K&N CANNOT increase your horsepower or MPG. If you check various test results on the Internet, you will find that the K&N clogs up quicker and also passes much more dirt than OEM. If the K&N or your foam filter really did an exceptional or better job than a paper filter, don’t you think the auto manufacturers would be installing them on their cars? Fact is, not one car manufacturer uses them. Take a K&N and hold it up to the light or use a magnifying glass. You will see all sorts of light coming through and various size holes. Dirt can pass through those holes. Go back to OEM and hope you did not do any major damage.

 

[Gillbot]

The supercharger is sucking so much air that the intake tubing collapses. This only occurs over 13psi while the stock system is only meant for 8psi the most.

Boosted vehicles are far different from NA vehicles. I was thinking more turbo where the intake tubing would be pressurized but yes, I can see where that would happen.

 

[Throckmorton]

Why would it crumple under boost? Shouldn't it burst?


M1 tends to shear quickly as well.

The airbox is low pressure, because that's where the engine/turbo/supercharger is sucking air from

 

[Gillbot]

The airbox is low pressure, because that's where the engine/turbo/supercharger is sucking air from

covered it already

Boosted vehicles are far different from NA vehicles. I was thinking more turbo where the intake tubing would be pressurized but yes, I can see where that would happen.

 

[NickR]

Why do you have an air filter that filters less than a standard paper one?

Also, the oil life monitors are BS.

The "oil life monitors are bs" is bs. GMs OLM is actually very, very useful and accurate. They spend a lot of money developing it. It takes into account engine coolant and oil temperature, running time, RPM, an a ton of other variables. It uses a baseline oil spec, (Dexos 1 for new vehicles) to determine when the oil needs to be replaced. The OLM has proven itself to be very useful, and as long as you use a quality oil, accurate.

 

[RPD]

Well first of all I don't have a K&N filter.

Should I have installed something more like this - http://sdparts.com/details/gm-accessories/17800809 ?

 

[RPD]

royal purple has a tendency to shear very quickly. I use 5w30 in my civic and its was closer to a 20 weight when I change it,according to Blackstone. They said wear etc. Looked great though.

So should I be using a different brand?

 

[NickR]

RPD: Next oil change, give Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 a shot.

 

[HarryLui]

Should I have installed something more like this - http://sdparts.com/details/gm-accessories/17800809 ?

Stick with the OEM air box.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Change your oil when you're supposed to, use factory filters, and don't waste your money on oil analysis.

 

[NickR]

Change your oil when you're supposed to, use factory filters, and don't waste your money on oil analysis.

Hmmmm I take it you don't feel that it makes a difference what oil you use? And that oil analysis aren't useful for telling if there is an engine problem? Well to each their own, but I'm not one of the "car is an appliance" people, and I will spend the extra time and effort to make sure everything is as good as it can be- oil included.