Overclocking ram and CPU

[imported_goku]

(Revised)
Ram
Ok I have an Abit IC7-G mobo with a P4 2.8C and Corsair CMX512-3200S ram. I have noticed that I am not able to get my ram to run reliably at a 1:1 ratio past 3.4ghz with Prime95. I'm wondering if I should purchase 4000 or 3500 ram instead because I want a 1:1 ratio with the best timings possible and what makes this ram even more difficult to overclock is that the timings are horrible 3-3-3. Since I still have the reciept to the ram and I need to return it by this saturday I need to know should I buy some other 3200 ram (Corsair or OCZ) or get some 3500 or 4000 ram.


PSU
I heard that if my 5V rail is going below 4.9 stops at around (4.89/4.87) its is likely that could over volt in the future/under volt because of the fact it is a no name brand (Ez Media). It used to be around 4.95/4.92 but ever since I installed my Second HDD permanently it is lower now. Is it likely that the PSU is being stressed beyond it's specs? Because I noticed that I started to see my system shutdown completely after Prime 95 Torture test 1, part 4 1024k FFT when OCed past 3GHz with the new HDD. The results are no different at 3.4GHZ with Prime95 acutally shutting down the PC then at 3GHZ. It doesnt seem to me the CPU is getting too hot because it is only running at 60C (according to ABIT MOBO) when doing the stress test. The EzMedia (no name brand) PSU is 350Watt that has the following connected:an AllInWonder 9800 Pro, 2 HDDs 1 120 and 1 80GB, 1 DVD and 1 CDRW drive, Volcano 12 CPU fan, Smart fan 2 (Tt), Audigy 2 ZS, TV Wonder VE PCI devices all hooked up.
Also with this low 5V Rail reading, would it also explain why I hear my CPU fan speeding up and down when the 5V rail fluctates? I just need to know if the reason why I'm getting stability issues.
I will later post My Mem86 and Prime95 results when OCed and other situations so this problem can be better evaluated.

 

[Safeway]

Get OCZ, definately. Their RAM is amazing. I hang out here and at the bleedinedge.com forums. If you don't know, the official OCZ forums are located on that small userbase forum. There are 3 or 4 OCZ techies that respond within hours, not days. If they are online when you post, it is almost like ICQ on the forum. They answer any tech troubles, and offer any OC help they can. Including voltages, etc. It is awesoe there. I consulted with Tony numerous times. Also, many posters there are hardcore OCers. One guy has 3 Vapochill in one case. Another routinely gets to 4.0+ and is ranked #11 (I think) for 3dmark03. OCZ is great RAM, great support.

 

[Optimummind]

Since both are high-performing brands, I say buy whichever happens to be cheaper when you make your purchase.

 

[bignaz2k]

Geil ram is also worth a look see. Very good reviews, and is usually cheaper than Corsair and OCZ

 

[imported_goku]

Oh yea whats a good amount of time I should run MEM86 and Prime 95 for me to post my results?

 

[AristoV300]

I usually prefer to let it run overnight while I sleep. OCZ is very good RAM, usually hits insane FSB but I can not get any of mine to take tight timings.

 

[yourdeardaniel]

for 1:1 overclocks get some pc-4000 (corsair, ocz EL/EB, kingston hyperx), then u can run at 250fsb x 14 3.5ghz (if ur CPU overclocks that well)
upgrade the PSU to 470 or 550 Enermax would get ur rails stable.

as for ram, i think u can go with either, although i've read corSair has little to none memory errors and always does it's rated speed. but heard good things about those 3500, 3700 EB from OCZ. mmm..

 

[PhoenixOrion]

If your goal is to maintain 1:1 ratio, don't even consider PC3200. You have to go at least PC4000.

Geil has the best PC4000 with their Ultra Platinum at 2.5-4-4-7.

If you want a little bit of headroom then go with OCZ PC42000 "EL" but it is at 3-4-4-8 and a hellutta more expensive of course.

 

[imported_goku]

Mem86:
1. FSB 236 (3.3GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Passed All Times for 1 Hour standard ram settings Actual VCore of 1.66V
2. FSB 229 (3.2GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Passed All Times for 1 Hour standard ram settings Actual VCore of 1.66V
3. FSB 200 (2.8GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Passed All Times for 1 Hour standard ram settings Abit Mobo setting at VCore Default 1.525V

All tests had the ram running at 2.8V (Abit setting)

Prime95 Max Heat,Power, some ram tested Large FFTs:
1. FSB 236 (3.3GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Crashed in 10 Seconds (Rebooted). Standard Ram settings. Actual VCore of 1.66V
2. FSB 229 (3.2GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Crashed in 10 Seconds (Rebooted). Standard Ram settings. Actual VCore of 1.66V
3. FSB 200 (2.8GHz) Ram at a 1:1 Ratio Passed All Tests 50 minutes standard ram settings (Didn't feel like doing more). According to the abit mobo VCore Default at 1.525V :
Self test 1024K Passed! Self Test 896K Passed! Self Test 768K Passed! Torture Test Ran for 50 Minutes - 0 errors 0 Warnings

This is all the information have gathered in the past 4 hours.

 

[imported_goku]

I'm probably goanna stay with Corsair Brand because after running the Mem86 tests (I'm goanna run 2 more 1 at 3.4GHz and one at 3.5GHz) I have realized that the errors I'm getting in prime95 aren't from the ram but probably due to the fact I have a sh!tty PSU. If anyone has any input please let me know! I'm still not sure about if this is all due to my PSU. Do you guys think they're goanna come out with 1GB 4000 Corsair ram? Since I'm low on dough I was thinking of getting 2 Sticks of somin then later get 2 sticks of 1GB when I do have the dough to fork it out. That way I will either have 2.5GB of ram (2 1GB sticks and 2 256MB Sticks) or (2 1GB sticks and 2 512MB sticks). If the 4000 sticks (2 512MB or 2 256MB) are too much by them selves I might just stick with the 3200s unless can be proved otherwise. Wondering about these 4000 sticks since they have already come out with DDR2 they just might give up on us and stop manufacturing it all together!! Also what's going to come first, Processor is going to be too slow to play the future games anyways or am I going to need that 2GB+ of ram. Because I heard they are already going to start optimizing games for 2GB with the up coming Doom III and Half Life 2!


Oh BTW dont you guys think that 470/550 watts is a little much? Would my computer be continuously using 470/550 even if it isnt utilizing all of it!? What other brands can you guys recommend, I know of some but I want some recommendations.

 

[imported_goku]

Did memtest86 test which passed 3 tests with out errors but the system abruptly restarted after 12 Minutes. It was running with a 1:1 Ratio but I wasnt able to run the computer anymore at 3.4GHZ even with a 5:4 Ram ratio. So there will be no 3.5GHz test because it seems agian the PSU cant supply enough power or some other MISC reason. I'm running the CPU fan at full speed but what I'm now questioning is why is my PC starting to have OC problems despite the fact I was originally running with two drives when I first got the new MOBO. Is it really possible that my PSU could be actually causing my system to restart? I heard of it but I have a 350 watt PSU. What ever just give me input!

 

[PhoenixOrion]

Hmmm..........just a reference point: my 2.8C @ 3430 runs at 40C idle/45C load in a 77F room.

At 5:4, you should be able to hit it over 3.4Ghz with the RAM you're using.

It must be the 350W PSU then if the 5V and 12V rails are not steady enough.

"Whoever controls the voltage and temperature wins the OC crown."

 

[imported_goku]

What else determines the quality of a PSU? Funny I was thinking about actually getting a 300 Watt PSU but wanted upgradability now look at where I am! Well I didnt expect much to upgrade since the system originally had a Powerleap Celeron 1.4GHZ in a PII mobo with a Radeon 9800 Pro, the video card was the only reason for me to get the 300 watt PSU in the first place because the system wouldnt start at all because 200 watts is just not enough. If a friend were to come over now and see my system and they had some technical knowledge they still have no clue how fast my system is behind that 1998 ATX case (XPS R450). So what makes for a bad 12V rail? I know for 5V though.

 

[PhoenixOrion]

The +12V 4-pin to the motherboard gives direct juice to the CPU so that it does not have to take power that the mobo gets through the 20-pin. Overclocking the P4, it is crucial that the 12V and 5V deliver all the juice.

Now I'm curious what brand of 350W you have. I've seen soo many 350W to 550W and they crap out in a matter of days and lofty max output when they are really just putting out 200-250W.
The only rule I go by with PSU is "stick with brand names" and off-labels from these brand name manufacturers. For example, Fortron Source makes very good PSU but you can get Sparkle cheaper and they are made by Fortron Source. Example 2 is Antec PSU's but you can buy Chieftec and Uneec and all these 3 are made by the same facility and people.

 

[imported_goku]

EZ Media, Dont know what brand it is I think it's no name. So whats are the 3.3V, -5V and -12V rails for? Yea I thought the 12V rail was the one that hooks into the HDD and Video Cards.

 

[PhoenixOrion]

The +12V is strictly for P4 motherboads with the 4-pin connector to give juice to the P4 cpu. I know the +5V rails are for the components that use molex 4-pin connections such as gfx card and HDD. I believe the memory uses +3V from the mobo. DDR should get a good 2.5 to 2.7. 2.8-2.9V is cooking it.

 

[PhoenixOrion]

Here's a very good article on PSU's at nordic:

http://www.nordichardware.com/article/PSU/2004/artikel1/index.php

 

[imported_goku]

Well I just purchased and ordered the True Power 480PSU from Antec and I used standard shipping what I am wondering is how long does standard shipping take? Also with my new PSU will I get more reliable voltages that dont fluctuate as much? Or for example when I go into the bios and select 1.7V core will I get a 1.7V core or is it the MB being stupid. A little of topic but how hot should I let my CPU when O.Cing before it's real risky of being fryed.

 

[imported_goku]

HOLY SH!T!!!!! My new Antec True Power 480 PSU is CRAP!!!! Is it just me or am I one in a million? I bought the PSU, hooked it up, checked everything to make sure nothing could possibly short out I turn on the computer and I hear a spark and see some smoke. I remove the power cable immediately and surveyed the damage. I appeared the FDD cable screwed up and was burned on the red wire up to the IDE power connector. I assume it was because I improperly attached the FDD power cable some how so I disconnect the FDD power cable and start up the computer, about 20 seconds later I hear a spark come from the HDD on ANOTHER whole stripe of cable. I see a bit of smoke which was a lot less than I saw for the FDD connector and I am now posting. What the hell is going on!!???? I've never ever had this happen before, I had a cheapo PSU hooked up before and now I get a 130$ PSU and it fvcks up! Should I RMA it and buy from another company?!