Oxidizied / flaking clear coat solution,

[ino uno soweno]

.best to just ignore like everyone else does.


Meg, you cannot “take” your own advice, you advised the whole forum to ignore this thread, and not half a day later you change your advice to suit your self, “ you say one thing and do the opposite”, ??.


However , I am so happy you are bringing up the subject of Ultraviolet and beyond, trying to baffle us with your superior mind,


So I am going to 1, follow your lead,2, the need for places like this to supply facts to the best of our ability., so I am “not” ignore you either,


Back asap,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Meg You said,


Very little if any UV penetrates the windshield.


Facts are, Shortwave UV cannot pass through glass plastic ect,

Longwave UV “will pass through most glasses, plastics and transparent substances, so there are 2 more misleading info you present,

My line of thought and line of experience is beyond Ultraviolet, to the electromagnetic spectrum, “ which contains from the book, “ the ultraviolet region, rangers from the shortest violet wavelengths of light that people can see, at about 4000 Angstroms, down to approximately 100A, the upper end of the X-ray spectrum. The X-ray region extends down from the ultraviolet to about1 Angstrom. Beyond the X-rays are the gamma rays, which emitted by radioactive particles. Further out, beyond the lower end of gamma rays at about 1/100 A, lie the cosmic rays, these are the mysterious radiations that originate somewhere in space and that constantly bombard the earth, It is believable that this continual bombardment of all living things by cosmic rays is one of the chief causes of mutation or genetic changers in plants and animals,


All forms of radiation, including Ultraviolet, “ are forms of energy”, and further discussion and diagram follows,


That being said my line of thought is meg, you can guess as much as you like about IR, there is no answer, that JCH can speed dial Wilki for you.

You said,


The majority of UV-B is absorbed by the glass itself, and any remaining UV-B together with most of the UV-A is absorbed by the PVB bonding layer. You are wrong, again,


You are gleaning info about “absorbers “ measured as % of UV resistance,



Films and tints, WAX and Urethane, Acrylic are also all rated “ resistant”, good quality absorbers films are expensive, with high % UV and heat resistant are very bloody expensive, as fuzzybabybunny has recently shown on his thread, $600 to $900+. And 2 many headaches if not applied properly, absorbers loose efficiency / resistance % much quicker.



Personally, I think I would feel like driving with a plastic bag over my head trying to see through the ? clear plastic ,, not like PVB bonding layer, there the tinted and or banded plastic layer laminated between 2 layers of glass, under high tempt and vacuum,




A “BLOCKER” measured and proven as %100 “UV stable “( NU-FINISH is a Zinc crossed linked technology. ) IS CHEAPER , 3-5 DOLLARS for the glass on a whole car,, EASIER TO APPLY, diy, ( short wave or long wave UV,


And especially suit people who do not want to black out (tint ) their cars glass, or


Or people who do not have the money, but like the idea of a cheap protection from UV,on their trim, and



People who do not want to impair side and rear window vision at night with super dark tint, and usually bubbles or peels in too short a time,


Nu-finish is a cheap and easy maintained, LONG TERM choice, and easily buffed off, or buffed clean,?, and also the line of thought that if glass has a covering of a softer then glass polymer thick coating, that is still very hard, this may result in less small glass stone chips, or small stone cracks,
You said,

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Oooooo....I coat the windshield with NuFinish to cut down on UV.

Stupid idea and no sound reasoning behind it.[/FONT]

I say you are stupid to think, I would think that you know what you are talking about, sorry, and your information is misinforming the forum,


OK, for the guys who are not convinced that I am bullshiting,


My line of thought is and has been for a long time, about proving Nu-finish is UV stable, and stops UV, so I have showed live time pictures of my experience, I believe it, I see it working every day,


But I would like have a sort of flick the switch evidence, so I have long been thinking based on another of my long time experience with the following,


Before I get into that, please note, I really do not think I will be able to get a picture of the actual flicking of the switch second, so no actual pictures because my phone camera does not work like that,, but I am getting ideas all the time, so we shall see by the time it actualy happens,


Also so as not to mislead anyone, there are some points you should know beforehand,


1, Most important, the following observations are conducted with long and short UV “only”. Not IR, (infrared ) , not cosmic rays, not gamma rays, which may also be the problem, and pass through Nu-finish,


2, on the other hand cosmic gamma and IR may also be blocked by Nu-finish, I may think of a flick the switch method for testing or proving that later, but I do not think so,


3, Anyone wanting to this observation themselves, as you will see, the observation would cost about $20, and a little bit of leg work,to do it DIY.



4, I am sure from previous observations that there is atleast one reason why this observation may not work, but I do not know what that reason is, so I can not be sure this observation will work, except based on my previous long term use of these,

Back asap.

 

[WoodButcher]

 

[Soundmanred]

Wait, you don't actually put that stuff on the glass do you?

 

[ino uno soweno]

Wait, you don't actually put that stuff on the glass do you?

Yes sir. blocking UV radiation before it gets to your stick on tint should make your tint last alot longer. and your trim,

I have done it, :'( for years, and I find glass stays clearer, and cleaner, easier to clean, you can notice it soon as applied, that stuff does not stick onto glass or any waxed paint surfaces,or waxed chrome surfaces like it did before,

Before you put nu-finish of the side and rear glass, and rear vision mirrors, drive the car in the rain and get a good look how much vision you have, day time and night time, then buff and apply nu-finish, I will be surprized if you are not atleast a little surprized,

Another crazy question you should be asking your self after a year or 2, is, " does your car some times get cleaner driving it in the rain " ?? windows and all, That happens to me alot,

Another thought is we will paint a car and add clear to the last coats of base coat color, or paint a thick clear coat to make it clear and shine, why note apply a clear coat to make glass shine, ??. it works,

I think generaly shit just not like to stick to Nu-finish, like it loves to stick to straight clean glass, or waxed urethane paint, or wax chrome, no problem with bird or bat droppings anymore,wash off easy in the rain too,

Please note I have been doing it for years, and never had a reaction of any kind, %100 nothing, I do not apply nu-finish under the path of the or any wiper blades, I do not know what would happen, I just do it that way, and I would not try waxing your windows either,

Also please note, the glass should be buffed clean before applying the Nu-finish, for the best and most noticable effect from then on.

Hope that helps,.

 

[ino uno soweno]

So the reason why I have been hurrying this observation for a while, is there has been a few problems, with getting everything together, but , without actually making it happen, this is what I have seen, and what I think will happen during the observation when it does happen, ,




This picture shows in the red lines a 7 year old gem diamond tester, in the blue lines shows a specific type of diamond tester to test the other diamond tester,, also about 7 years old, in the yellow lines is my 20 year old Versalum long and short wave UV lamp, on batteries,



http://www.raytechultraviolet.com/product-versalume.php


So, we have a source of uv light, and the means to “test” alluvial raw diamonds,

Like these, long time hobby,




1.

Diamonds, Native Carbon, caution, only diamonds that are contaminated with radioactive traces fluoresce, Diamonds with no trace radioactivity, do not fluoresces,
Gem diamonds have been found, or can be found to “fluoresce “under a UV lamp in a variety of colours including green, orange, red and blue, usually best LW, ( LONG WAVE UV ), blue is the most common fl colour. Also please note, many substances fluoresce under UV radiation, example, Amber, Opals, Fluorite, Zircon, Corundum, Quartzes. And many more, even if you have some Uranium Salts handy, haha.


So please note, I am causing the diamonds to fluoresce under Long Wave UV. And Long wave UV passes through most Auto and house hold glass and plastic, as well as short wave UV, which only acts in a slightly different matter,


But this is what I have seen many times, when I find and check diamonds “under a UV light”




The stainless steel tray background and anything not florescent “blacks out”, and the diamonds swell with fluorescents, by swell I mean they glow so bright the original shape and texture of each stone is lost,


Here is what happens on the atomic level,






So, the observation when it happenings,


One of the problems I am having is my lamp stopped working 3 months ago, after 20 years, the good side is I have been waiting for it to stop working to send it back to have free new lenses, the lens have a life time guarantee, and I will soon,


I have arranged to have a friends new lamp soon, as we can get together, ( weeks )along with some Nu-finish, and perhaps diamonds , or opal, amber, whatever I can find at the time,


My idea will be when I can get my hands on a working UV lamp, I will find some things that fluoresces, and either,
Coat half of them in Nu-finish, or all of them, and under the lamp.
Or coat a small sheet of plastic, ?.
And or a small sheet of glass, ?.
Maybe I can use some small bottles, I can coat the outside and inside of the bottle with Nu-finish, and fill the bottle with something that fluoresces, then under the UV lamp, for the observation. Will or how much glow is the % of stable,
Anyway at this point I think if I applied Nu-finish to the above diamonds, and placed them under a UV lamp I think they would look like this,




And never fluoresce again if the coating stays on, or I should be able to slid a small sheet of plastic or glass in-between the lamp lenses, (long and short, ) and the whatever is glowing, should first dim and go out, as soon as the nu-finish coated surface blocks it, split /seconds depending on the quality of the diamond, ,


Another observation I have been long in planning, concerns the % of resistance that new -finish has to acids, and a few corrosive substances, caustic soda.
I have about 6 variations or mixtures of nitric, nitric and hydrochloric acids to the most strongest acid “hydrofluoric” , which I use regularly for the last 40 years,$100 a kit,


The idea being, I will coat the inside a dozen very small glass bottles, smaller than a cigarette lighter, with Nu-finish, 2 + coats, then place drops of as many different acids/corrosives separately in the bottles, and watch which corrosives eat the nu-finish lining / coating inside the bottle, I will be going where I have never been before,


ooooh ooooh , I thought of another corrosive,


JCH,Meg, black, fuzz. Pop quiz time,


The op corn guy can participate too, with a stressed face like that, and being platinum member, a quick answer should not be a prob for you,


OK, to get us all talking English.


Here an example question and answer,.


“What is the most corrosive “acid” to most metals, ????.


Answer Yes hydrofluoric “ , very good,


Now I will ask the “real” question, please note, I will also test this on the nu-finish as a corrosive, all observations are relative,


R U ready,


“what is the most corrosive “metal” to most metals, “ ????. Key words “corrosive acid” and “corrosive metal”,


I can assure you I know the answer, so there is an answer, and I am not trying to trick you, feel free to speed dial Wilki, quick answer is a good answer,


So, coming up soon, observation on flick switch quick evidence “that “ Nu-finish blocks low and high band UV radiation, and or sliding a nu-finish coated plastic cut out from a shirt box can cut off the supply of UV radiation like a switch, or not. ??,


And observations and pictures of and on corrosive resistance nu- finish surface, got to try brake fluids to, Bitumen,?? too.
Back asap.


Some light reading for anyone interested. Short but relative.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet#Degradation_of_polymers.2C_pigments_and_dyes

 

[Soundmanred]

Pure insanity.

 

[JCH13]

This thread reminds me of this clip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xywqv1cDH8

I feel like the blond guy in the black shirt...

Edit:

Alright professor ino... metal-metal corrosion is driven by the galvanic scale, there is no one metal that is more 'corrosive' to others, it is all driven by differences along the galvanic scale.

Also, hydroflouric acid is not the strongest acid. Not by a long shot. Two acids that are easily identified as being stronger than HF are HBr and HI, hydrobromic acid and hydroiodic acid respectively. I believe the strongest known acid is perchloric acid, HClO4.

I can't even being to address the inaccuracies of everything else you babbled on about... the one huge, glaring, incredibly obvious condition that you are apparently not considering the actual spectrum of EM radiation that a car will be reasonably subjected to, especially compared to a UV lamp.

Also, you're really trying to screw with someone who has worked with XRF/EMF technology and currently works with electrochemistry? Bro, do you even science?

 

[ino uno soweno]

JCH,


I only asked ONE, just one quiz question, don’t you know example questions do not “have to be answered”.


Is this your answer to my questions , ?.


“[FONT=&quot]metal-metal corrosion is driven by the galvanic scale, there is no one metal that is more 'corrosive' to others, it is all driven by differences along the galvanic scale”.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Yes or No, please.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]And before you answer please consider this, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Experience knows you were an idiot. Common sense is trying not be an idiot. Wisdom is knowing that you will still be an idiot.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Do not take the wording as any insult at all, not even the slightest insult., just do as I do and read between the lines and see the good advice, please. [/FONT]

 

[JCH13]

 

[ino uno soweno]

oh LOOK, jch BABY PICture,



YES, I am SERIOUSE.

 

[XavierMace]

This thread is like watching a car accident. You know it's going to be bad, but you can't bring yourself to turn away.

 

[ino uno soweno]

, really. atleast it is not boring, :sneaky:. the pictures are funny.

Step right up, anyone, 1 question squeeze, ops,I mean 1 question quiz, and I gave a really very good clue. ???. .

 

[ino uno soweno]

Again
sorry to jump onto another subject, but while we are waiting for an answer from anyone,


I think some lines of thought are ready for your consideration, in relation to Locktite extended rust treatment, and the use of a ¼” and or a 1/16” dia spray nozzle (and drill pump pictured above.) inside box welded metal internals structures in cars, generally speaking.,


1, Line of thought that a blind man could be placed in a room 8’x8’x8’, and given a paint brush to paint the roof and back and front walls, of course he could do it, and not paint the side walls, and do it well, so could a man who is not blind, can also do it with the lights out, both blind and not blind can wipe their ass without looking,? , just a little practice line of thought to get the feel of sliding a thin plastic pipe inside a rear quarter dog leg. ,


2, practice rubbing the plastic end or metal spray tip on a rusted visible metal surface to get the “feel” and “hear” the sound that the tip makes, then on real rusty flaking rust, then on clean metal, painted metal, 2 pieces of metal joined together with a sealant oozing from the join, all the time having full vision, that is good practice to get the feel when you are unable to see,


3, use just a 4-5 foot length of stiff 1/16” to ¼ “nu-matic thick wall air plastic pipe for many reasons,


A, to find rusting metal internal surfaces, usually, once a rusted area is located, I can use my other hand to feel the tip,” from the outside the panel”, and even accurately draw a calk or pen line around the rusted area, on the outside of the panel, roof gutters, pillars, anywhere, again depth of rust pitting and flakiness are very feely,


B, to feed extra wiring throughout the body without removing hardly any trim, front pillar to rear pillar via internal roof support /gutter, centre roof interior light to either pillar accessory switch or light, with a blind rust inspection on the way.




Any small dia, plastic thick wall piping usually can come in coils, and tight coils is not good for feeding into long sill panels through small ½ “holes, so I lay out the 5’ length plastic tube on a 5’ length of 4x2 timber or metal, and clamp the ends and few spots towards the middle, so it will not move,

I use a heat gun , but left in the hot sun for a few days usually works,


Back asap.

 

[ecox1]

Another observation I have been long in planning, concerns the % of resistance that new -finish has to acids, and a few corrosive substances, caustic soda.
I have about 6 variations or mixtures of nitric, nitric and hydrochloric acids to the most strongest acid “hydrofluoric” , which I use regularly for the last 40 years,$100 a kit,

The idea being, I will coat the inside a dozen very small glass bottles, smaller than a cigarette lighter, with Nu-finish, 2 + coats, then place drops of as many different acids/corrosives separately in the bottles, and watch which corrosives eat the nu-finish lining / coating inside the bottle,

What are the normalities of your acids? If you have been using them for 40 years, are you sure there is still acid in the solutions and not salt water? Also, and more important, you experiment seems flawed. Nitric/ hydrochloric/sulfuric acid will not do any damage to glass, which is why they are shipped in glass bottles.

On a different note, diamonds do not fluoresce due to radioactivity.

Now before more rambling about "metal on metal corrosives", I don't really care, that was not part of chemistry i enjoyed. I think no one has "answered it" (JCH was pretty direct and I agree with him) because there is not a real question with described variables to answer without being called stupid.

I look forward to my entertainment at a break tomorrow at work in your reply.

 

[ino uno soweno]

I look forward to my entertainment at a break tomorrow at work in your reply.

, what time is your break, ??. and is that your time, or my time, '

I will do a few hours in the morning and post, I hope that is on time for your break, I enjoyed your posts, thanks.

 

[ino uno soweno]

You say


What are the normalities of your acids? If you have been using them for 40 years, are you sure there is still acid in the solutions and not salt water?


I say, in my line of work it pays to be exact, ( the lid is removed and the acid exposed regularly, I buy 6 different strengths of acid at 8ml per bottle, 80 to 100 dollars last 3 months, and worth it, my work is seasonal, 3-6 months of the year over 40 years, I agree fresh is best.


You say,


Also, and more important, you experiment seems flawed. Nitric/ hydrochloric/sulfuric acid will not do any damage to glass, which is why they are shipped in glass bottles.


I say, please again note my quote above. I coat the inside of the bottle with nu-finish, the corrosive substances may react with the inside coating of nu-finish or not, that will be my observation. Which ones do and which ones that do not,


You say.

On a different note, diamonds do not fluoresce due to radioactivity.


I say, I feel better when someone is watching, and keeping the facts straight, thanks, I will check and find my references and when I find what I am looking for, or I find my mistake, I will get back to you on that one,



You say.



Now before more rambling about "metal on metal corrosives", I don't really care, that was not part of chemistry i enjoyed. I think no one has "answered it" (JCH was pretty direct and I agree with him)


I say, none of you will be guilty of being stupid, or wrong, because there is no way in hell you ( all 60 of you) would have been known , you would have a better chance of winning the 50 mill lottery, you were not there with me 40 years ago, I am not smarter than anyone with a IQ higher than average, and I babble on a lot more. I am much older than most reading this, and I can keep a secret for 40 years,


You say,


because there is not a real question with described variables to answer without being called stupid.


I say it was a “ quiz “ question, 1 fact and 1 clue, is all ya get on a TV quiz, the fact is there is a “most corrosive metal “, the clue is I am going to show you the most corrosive metal,



You say,



I look forward to my entertainment at a break tomorrow at work in your reply.


I say, that for your entertainment I will tell you I regretted mentioning a corrosive metal, after I posted it, because I really opened a can of worms ,and let the cat out of the bag, Another 40 year secret soon up in smoke, JCH made me do it.



Anyway, better post now, I hope you stay interested long enough to hear the end,

 

[JCH13]

I say... you say... I say... you say...

 

[ino uno soweno]

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Sorry to jump onto another subject, but while we are waiting for an answer from anyone,


I think some lines of thought are ready for your consideration, in relation to Locktite extended rust treatment, and the use of a ¼” and or a 1/16” dia spray nozzle (and drill pump pictured above.) inside box welded metal internals structures in cars, generally speaking.,


1, Line of thought that a blind man could be placed in a room 8’x8’x8’, and given a paint brush to paint the roof and back and front walls, of course he could do it, and not paint the side walls, and do it well, so could a man who is not blind, can also do it with the lights out, both blind and not blind can wipe their ass without looking,? , just a little practice line of thought to get the feel of sliding a thin plastic pipe inside a rear quarter dog leg. ,


2, practice rubbing the plastic end or metal spray tip on a rusted visible metal surface to get the “feel” and “hear” the sound that the tip makes, then on real rusty flaking rust, then on clean metal, painted metal, 2 pieces of metal joined together with a sealant oozing from the join, all the time having full vision, that is good practice to get the feel when you are unable to see,


3, use just a 4-5 foot length of stiff 1/16” to ¼ “nu-matic thick wall air plastic pipe for many reasons,


A, to find rusting metal internal surfaces, usually, once a rusted area is located, I can use my other hand to feel the tip,” from the outside the panel”, and even accurately draw a calk or pen line around the rusted area, on the outside of the panel, roof gutters, pillars, anywhere, again depth of rust pitting and flakiness are very feely,


B, to feed extra wiring throughout the body without removing hardly any trim, front pillar to rear pillar via internal roof support /gutter, centre roof interior light to either pillar accessory switch or light, with a blind rust inspection on the way.


C, access the whole internal structures “to” pin pointing problem rust areas,


Any plastic thick wall piping usually can come in coils, and tight coils is not good for feeding into long sill panels through small ½ “holes, so I lay out the 5’ length plastic tube on a 5’ length of 4x2 timber or metal, and clamp the ends and few spots towards the middle, so it will not move, I use a heat gun , but left in the hot sun for a few days usually works,


Back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Update,


Sorry, late last night, tonight’s BBq and UV corrosive observations, was postponed until next weekend.


Family in town, delays in Loctite posts inevitable over this weekend.


Admission into hospital always pending. ??

 

[ino uno soweno]

Ok, just a little revision to clarify the facts for the record,
‘’’’’’’’’’’’’ ecox


You have not responded to my reply, and I have had time to confirm the supplied info is or is “not “correct and factual “,


Please note.


Around 3 months turn over on all the acids I use, so for the record, my

normalities are “ excellent “, thank you for your concern,


Your assumptions that my observations are flawed are incorrect and misleading; clearly you are unable to read and understand what you yourself posted, and or what I have written. ?.


‘’’[FONT=&quot] The idea being, I will coat the inside a dozen very small glass bottles, smaller than a cigarette lighter, with Nu-finish, 2 + coats, then place drops of as many different acids/corrosives separately in the bottles, and watch which corrosives eat the nu-finish lining / coating inside the bottle,’’’.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]. Nitric/ hydrochloric/sulfuric acid will not do any damage to glass, we all know that.[/FONT]


I did not say I was using Sulfuric acid, never have, I said I could try caustic soda, and I will, it appears you just added Sulphuric due to some reason only you know, so please focus on the information supplied,


Also, your statement about diamonds do NOT fluoresce because they are radioactive is completely misleading, and ill-informed, ,


Some examples are,


People in the antique diamond business know (but do not talk about it), , from not so long ago, diamonds and a few other gem stones were Radiated with Radium to improve colour and day time Florence,


“ To make money”, the bad guys found out in those days, made lots of money radiating gem stones in and on and with the black market, and never said a word, and I can assure you, (not all and not even that many) but they are out there, please refer to wilki.


Another example is Florence “ IS” caused not only by ultraviolet radiation, but can be caused by other radiations such as “x-rays and visible light” , your statement about diamonds do not fluoresce because they are radioactive is wrong, some of them do; but I would not expect you to know that, other examples are,


Opal, common opal from several areas of the western United States WILL fl green, because of slight URANIUM traces,
Finally the fact is, Diamonds have been found that fl various shades of green, fairly common, the very green fl diamonds have a greater traces of

Uranium then most, and that is a fact.


Some natural diamonds have traces of Uranium which is considered a comtaminate., some do not,


New guys please note diamonds that do not Fl are said to be % 15 more in value, although sales of both are close. ??.


My line of thought and in my experience, is my best guess is Florescence caused by Uranium in some diamonds is really only visible in and only in full day light sun, and the full electromagnetic spectrum, Including Gamma and Cosmic Radiation, and really “ not as “ noticeable under high and low band UV, as in direct sunlight.


And if you don’t really care, why post anything, ?.


I am sure your chemistry did not cover “[FONT=&quot]metal on metal corrosive". As opposed to “acid on metals corrosives” that everyone is focused on, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]For the new guys, please note, if I place an ounce piece of dense metal in glass beaker, along with the appreciate volume of the appreciate acid, and bring to the boil, the piece or chunk of metal will be eaten by the acid slowly from the outside, even jumping around as the acid eats it way to the centre of the bar , and ends up as a powder which could be a different colour, and lost some of its original Specific Gravity, 1 example, 19.6 Sg down to 15.4 Sg. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I have used this metal on metal corrosion method for 20 years to reduce the size of metal, to 20 micron and 50 micron 100 micron, these fine sizes are then used in research and development of Specific Gravity Separation, example; inter-vortex vortexes recovery of heavy metals in a mining agenda. Development heading towards “light Sg rare earth metals”.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So, the third clue is, all the metals stay elemental, and “No” metal is converted into a ion powder due to this metal on metal corrosive process, no loss of specific gravity, only a few ounces of metal are required in and for this process, quick and easy for me, by quick I mean just put them together, and leave them for a few days in the sunlight, , [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Also this method can be used to reduce the physical size of some metals from say a one ounce bar of a common metal, to thousands and thousands of 20-100 micron size bits weighing 1 oz., “before “using any acid, the advantage being, the acid surface to metal surface reaction time is quicker, making the acid more efficient, when using acid to refine or separate alloys. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Or perhaps reduce the block or chunk to the smallest micron sizes, and if that metal is an alloy of say 2 metals, perhaps a less dangerous type or weaker type of acid be used to dissolve the weaker metal, blar blar, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Anyway, please note my observation of placing a few drops of metal on metal corrosives on 2x coat nu-finish to satisfy myself, and I will also ensure the said metal on metal corrosive process will go through a full cycle, if it is more or too corrosive for the Nu-finish coating, pictures should be forthcoming, ??. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Also another quick easy observation I have in mind is fine metal dust with a good light brown colour placed on a nu-finish clear coat and left in the weather, I am also thinking perhaps say 12 small patches ½” x ½” of thin rust dust, every month I could remove one patch to observe the effect of oxidizing metal dust on the nu-finish surface, noting what oxidizing metal dust adheres ion and pitting qualities can be observed over time, and shown with pictures.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Update, on loctite is I am having trouble with a sketch, and up loading pics, working on that, the sketch is about heating up the tip of the 1/16” to ¼” plastic thick wall pipe, and shaping it so that it is easy feed into sill panels ect, another option is attach the other end of the plastic tube to compressed air, and blast out the dust, ?. Another option is a multiple abrasion head to sand surface rust areas 2 feet inside a panel, before spray painting, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I have got more pics on the red GT4, focusing on repairing the damage to both front guard lips above the wheel, and the home made tools that work for me, I relate this method more to a “ none invasive dent and damage repair concept”, and really only works on front guards, [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Bad news update is the red Outback has blood chilling hail damage, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]New news is pictures of BMW M3 with considerable stone chip drama,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]And a very white two door sports Mercedes with almost complete night blindness, that needs a 30 sec miracle, each head light, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Back asap. [/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

JCH,


You are the ex-spert, Bro,


You say,
“ there is no one metal that is more 'corrosive' to others”,


Is that your ex-spert “final” decision, answer. Still, ??????????????????.
Or maybe you should, ( as you told me to do, ) “ pull your head out of your //// and learn something you do not know”,


You can be as sarcastic as you like calling me Professor, but I am only asking you one question, just one, “what metal is corrosive to most other metals”. I gave you 3 very good factual clues,


Also you ranted,


"I can't even being to address the inaccuracies of everything else you babbled on about... the one huge, glaring, incredibly obvious condition that you are apparently not considering the actual spectrum of EM radiation that a car will be reasonably subjected to, especially compared to a UV lamp,


Please note,
Degradation of polymers, pigments and dyes



UV damaged polypropylene rope (left) and new rope (right)
Many polymers used in consumer products are degraded by UV light, and need addition of UV absorbers to inhibit attack, especially if the products are exposed to sunlight. The problem appears as discoloration or fading, cracking, and, sometimes, total product disintegration if cracking has proceeded sufficiently. The rate of attack increases with exposure time and sunlight intensity.
It is known as UV degradation, and is one form of polymer degradation. Sensitive polymers include thermoplastics, such as polypropylene, polyethylene, and poly(methyl methacrylate) as well as speciality fibers like aramids. UV absorption leads to chain degradation and loss of strength at sensitive points in the chain structure. They include tertiary carbon atoms, which in polypropylene occur in every repeat unit. Aramid rope must be shielded with a sheath of thermoplastic if it is to retain its strength. The impact of UV on polymers is used in nanotechnology, transplantology, X-ray lithography and other fields for modification of properties (roughness, hydrophobicity) of polymer surfaces. For example, a poly(methyl methacrylate) surface can be smoothed by vacuum ultraviolet (VUV).[49]


IR spectrum showing carbonyl absorption due to UV degradation of polyethylene
In addition, many pigments and dyes absorb UV and change colour, so paintings and textiles may need extra protection both from sunlight and fluorescent bulbs, two common sources of UV radiation. Old and antique paintings such as watercolour paintings, for example, usually must be placed away from direct sunlight. Common window glass provides some protection by absorbing some of the harmful UV, but valuable artifacts need extra shielding. Many museums place black curtains over watercolour paintings and ancient textiles, for example. Since watercolours can have very low pigment levels, they need extra protection from UV light. Tinted glasses, such as sunglasses also provide protection from UV rays.
Blockers and absorbers



[FONT=&quot]Corrosion of polymers[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Ozone cracking[/FONT][FONT=&quot] in [/FONT][FONT=&quot]natural rubber[/FONT][FONT=&quot] tubing[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Polymer degradation[/FONT][FONT=&quot] involves several complex and often poorly understood physiochemical processes. These are strikingly different from the other processes discussed here, and so the term "corrosion" is only applied to them in a loose sense of the word. Because of their large molecular weight, very little [/FONT][FONT=&quot]entropy[/FONT][FONT=&quot] can be gained by mixing a given mass of polymer with another substance, making them generally quite difficult to dissolve. While dissolution is a problem in some polymer applications, it is relatively simple to design against. A more common and related problem is swelling, where small molecules infiltrate the structure, reducing strength and stiffness and causing a volume change. Conversely, many polymers (notably flexible [/FONT][FONT=&quot]vinyl[/FONT][FONT=&quot]) are intentionally swelled with [/FONT][FONT=&quot]plasticizers[/FONT][FONT=&quot], which can be leached out of the structure, causing brittleness or other undesirable changes. The most common form of degradation, however, is a decrease in polymer chain length. Mechanisms which break polymer chains are familiar to biologists because of their effect on [/FONT][FONT=&quot]DNA[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ionizing radiation[/FONT][FONT=&quot] (most commonly [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ultraviolet[/FONT][FONT=&quot] light), [/FONT][FONT=&quot]free radicals[/FONT][FONT=&quot], and [/FONT][FONT=&quot]oxidizers[/FONT][FONT=&quot] such as oxygen, [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ozone[/FONT][FONT=&quot], and [/FONT][FONT=&quot]chlorine[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Ozone cracking[/FONT][FONT=&quot] is a well-known problem affecting [/FONT][FONT=&quot]natural rubber[/FONT][FONT=&quot] for example. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Additives[/FONT][FONT=&quot] can slow these process very effectively, and can be as simple as a UV-absorbing [/FONT][FONT=&quot]pigment[/FONT][FONT=&quot] (i.e., [/FONT][FONT=&quot]titanium dioxide[/FONT][FONT=&quot] or [/FONT][FONT=&quot]carbon black[/FONT][FONT=&quot]). [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Plastic shopping bags[/FONT][FONT=&quot] often do not include these additives so that they break down more easily as [/FONT][FONT=&quot]litter[/FONT][FONT=&quot].[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I think what wilki says is right, [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Polymer degradation[/FONT][FONT=&quot] involves several complex and often poorly understood physiochemical processes[/FONT]
Many polymers used in consumer products “”are degraded by UV light””””, and need addition of UV absorbers to inhibit attack, especially if the products are exposed to sunlight.

I think wilki is right here,

[FONT=&quot]. Mechanisms which break polymer chains are familiar to biologists because of their effect on [/FONT][FONT=&quot]DNA[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ionizing radiation[/FONT][FONT=&quot] (most commonly [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ultraviolet[/FONT][FONT=&quot] light), [/FONT][FONT=&quot]free radicals[/FONT][FONT=&quot], and [/FONT][FONT=&quot]oxidizers[/FONT][FONT=&quot] such as oxygen, [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ozone[/FONT][FONT=&quot], and [/FONT][FONT=&quot]chlorine[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Ozone cracking[/FONT][FONT=&quot] is a well-known problem affecting [/FONT][FONT=&quot]natural rubber[/FONT][FONT=&quot] for example. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Additives[/FONT][FONT=&quot] can slow these process very effectively, and can be as simple as a UV-absorbing [/FONT][FONT=&quot]pigment[/FONT][FONT=&quot] (i.e., [/FONT][FONT=&quot]titanium dioxide[/FONT][FONT=&quot] or [/FONT][FONT=&quot]carbon black[/FONT][FONT=&quot])[/FONT]



I think wilki is right here too,

In addition, many pigments and dyes absorb UV and change colour,
And,
UV absorption leads to chain degradation and loss of strength at sensitive points in the chain structure. They include tertiary carbon atoms, which in polypropylene occur in every repeat unit



So for the record, I think your rant and rants are as always “misleading”, to say nothing of your history of not answering direct questions, just Twist and run.
But as always, JCH, I like your “collateral affect “ that causes me to think more, and search for verifying facts, and new facts, meaning I will attempt to carry out the above outlined observations, UV and corrosive,


( It is quite simple really, I just needed you to push me a little more to think of it, reminds me of how stupid I am in that I did not remember it before, lol. ) ( moral to that story there, is anyone can be said and seen to be stupid, if they do not remember something which they know already, ) (but no one can be said or seen to be stupid “if “ they never knew learnt or experienced the facts before,)


As well as I will carry out an observation in full EM spectrum ,, yahoooo. I will not need a UV lamp for that.


Back asap;

OH, WHat was that the fox said, ???. you speak his head popping lingo. ??>

 

[JCH13]

I have no idea how to respond to your post... I cannot make any sense of it.

If you think you know of a 'corrosive' metal, please share.

 

[ino uno soweno]

[FONT=&quot]
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[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“Before” I try and work out “ how” I am going to “make sense THAT YOU” may begin to logically and factual understand the facts and pictures” concerning the corrosive metal, so you at least have a or some chance of understanding it, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Did you in the last week or so, post your “opinion” on Nu-finish, and then delete that post, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So, simple put the question is, “did you recently post, than soon after, delete your post”, ????.
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

I think I should show respect to the forum and moderators, and all of yous and not show gory but amazing pictures about a corrosive metal,



Before talking it over and getting permission from a moderator, sorry last minute decision, some people may think we ( JCH and %10 me, Grin, just joking) have wondered off subject, or the number of bute crack likenesses imagines in the pictures, may offend someone,

So I will PM Moderator Zenmervolt ASAP, and ask,


Is the post on corrosive metal a benifit for the forum,


And if not, can he confirm that there is in fact a corrosive metal after viewing my pictures and info, ??.


Sorry about the delay, just trying to do the right thing, and playing it safe,
Back asap.