Oxidizied / flaking clear coat solution,

[ino uno soweno]

Sorry Kitateck,

I am overwhelmed with family duties,

I am looking forward to replying to your post,

Back as soon as possible,

 

[Black2na]

can i get an aftershot of this 1/4 panel ino?

 

[ino uno soweno]

Hey Kitatech,



You said,
The Toyota finish/clearcoat is staying smooth and the spray wax seems enough for now...I do expect in a couple of years (it will be 10 years old by then) it will need refinishing...and by then the car will be paid for so it will get a new "coat" for going out on the town...
And you previously said,
ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...


My thoughts.


( with all respect to you, we focusing on a situation that affects a lot of new guys in the same situation, “ has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...”)


I agree, and suggest any further waxing will continue to do as you say, that is lead to A expensive or cheap risky recoating the clear coat, or even more expensive repaint with clear coat, much safer it the whole car is repainted by a “ expert “ with mega bucks equipment, as you say,


I further suggest the cause for further lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...” is the or most wax can make a good shine, for a short to a reasonable time period, but they are soft, and have no or give little UV protection to the actual clear coat or paint surface under the clear coat, ,


So, please consider my lines of thought about “soft “and “little UV protection”. And collateral effects,


“Soft “ meaning wax will readily absorb or impact and retain micro fine particles and dust from other vehicles in front of your car, and vehicles coming at you from the opposite direction,


New Guys please consider this line of thought, to sand blast a car or metal, it is sprayed under high to med pressure with a sand size particles of heavy Specific gravity Ilminite,7,SG, or other similar size abrasive materials, most called sand blasting materials, driving you car at speed through dust is similar to sand but just “dust” blasting your car, also seen as small and bigger stone chips on the bonnet paint and stone pitting in the plastic head light lenses,


Most of this dust is in a chemically active state, POLUTION< most oxidizing in themselves,and with each other, in some manner, and most UV radiation sensitive, some slightly, some very acidic,


Wax having no real UV protection tech knowledge , or acidic protection, so the deeper the oxidizing pollutes sink or are impacted into the wax, the UV radiation can and is still causing them to react, and react with the wax, causing the wax to oxidize or break down,


Perhaps another scenario is yes what you see and say is true, the clear coat after all these years is starting to oxidize due to UV exposure, , despite all your attempts to protect it with wax, that has little UV protection, and allows UV radiation to easily pass through the wax, directly on to pollutes and further into the clear coat,


So, I agree, you are right in a few years you will need a complete respray, so may I play the “ devil’s advocate, “ ( and please understand I have no wish to offend you, or force you to do anything, I simply wish to make you aware of my experience and the facts, that I do not see as common information on this forum, ),


That is, please consider I applied Nu-finish to my Caldina in 1007, A very new looking import from Japan, 1998 model, original paint, I applied Nu-finish again in 2009, and you can see in the pictures of the bonnet, in 2013 I can clean off the oxidizing dirt and grime that has settled on the car, , and then buff with a s/s scourers pad, sorry fluffy pad, to a perfect shine, simply because Nu-finish cures harder and harder as the years go by, the paint on this car is original, and 15 years old, and no sign of oxidizing under high magnification,


So if you apply 2 coats Nu-Finish to your Toyota now, and a further coat in 3 months, then at intervals at 1 or 2 or 3 year intervals, there will be no need for a respray, Nu –Finish will “not allow” UV radiation through it’s it Zinc based technology clear coating to further oxidize you existing oxidized areas, so they are sealed, and no further subjected to UV radiation,


Nu -finish cures to a very hard surface, much harder the wax, or Acrylic, or Urethane surfaces, actually acid resistant, as noted in the speciation information,


I would really like to hear you say in 6 years that the current level of oxidization has “ improved” or less visible and maintained over the last 6 years leading you to believe that with 1 or 2 more application, it with last a further 6 years, not only last, but look better then when you purchased it,
Hurricanes permitting, ??>


You said,





My neighbor got a $30 wash-and-(hand)wax special and is VERY pleased....he's past doing such work himself and paying $30 three times a year is just fine with him....

His lights are crystal clear and he's done nothing to them...I am jealous though of the cool silver I see there...my warm-tone reflective surface looks "dull" in comparison, but the lenses are clear and that's as good as I can expect after 8 years....






Looking at your friends head lights, I see what looks to me to be ( blue lines,) stone chip pitting appear a white dots,, also 3 red arrows show recent deposits of what looks to be dry white buffing compound on the outer case, commonly called a “ over buff deposits”


I note that your friends, the lens “surface” is clean and crystal clear all over the lens especially around the orange blinker lens area,
Looking at your headlight lens I think, I see 3 small white stone chips, may a few more, from this angle and light I see some smearing ( 3 yellow arrows )and some smeared or lightly greasy scratches, ( black arrows ) show slightly greasy lens surface over orange colour, not as clear as your friends who I suggest only just had his 15 second buffed, leaving the stone chips,


Please also note, the above pic of your car with the lights on,





Ihere I see a defused and confused light and vision of the headlights components’, the orange colour is also defused from yellow to defuse slightly dirty orange, my line of thought is a quick machine buff of your lens would quickly make them comparable to your friends clean and bright lens, ,


So then,I would suggest from these observations, your friend got 2 x 15 second head light buffs for his $30 car wash, as you said before, his lights were pretty faded before the wash, and quickie lens buff’s from faded to shiny are common car wash activity, a trick of the trade to make the car look cleaner, or they can clean your car cleaner than anyone else, ,

 

[kitatech]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to help bring my car, and my neighbors, to "concours" condition...I'll be going to a store that has Nu-Finish and I'll try it on the area where the clear-coat is peeling...
The peeling clear coat is on the "A" pillar just above the door and so it will be easy to apply THERE and nowhere else, making it a good experiment...it can't hurt to try...
"...you said before, his lights were pretty faded before the wash..." I don't think I said that...perhaps someone else said something like that about another car...not so with my neighbor's...his only need was for waxing his finish...but...
I do have a "light-weight" orbital sander and I'll get a wax application pad to use next time I "wax" my headlights...

....after I do these things next month I'll post any updates if there's anything to report...for now, we're all okay...Again, thanks...

 

[ino uno soweno]

Sorry, I know I could have linked this information, but I suggest it is essential reading, related to comments made about this paint and the poor representation made to it, which were misleading,







POR-15 Technical Information[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]POR-15® PRODUCT DESCRIPTION[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

Worth reading,
Ok, my experience with actually using some of these products is as follows,


The engine bay looks a bit like a 69 Mustang, but car body is 71 Australian Ford Falcon 4 door sedan, can be replicated to an original Ford XY GTHO, Phase 3, = $65,000. (only if painted in Original Acrylic and Concourse on outside, )


Focus is always on, oxidizing, paint and metal, flaking, and extended term “clear coat solution”,


This car will be custom, burnout / sleeper, (replacing /old donor 73 King Cobra tribute burnout not very good sleeper any more), this body will be entirely “hand painted “with quality paint brushes , with only the above and below paints, [FONT=&quot]the powerful technology of polymeric isocyanate derivatives to the consumer rust prevention market for the first time, a technology vastly superior to competing products currently on the market.[/FONT]


As part of the re- build, and due to the fact it is a 5-7 year ( toy )spare time rebuild, the body and paint is deliberately left and “weathered” when not being worked on, for observational purposes, 2 years 4 months to date, as is


Top of the roof and rear quarters are spray gun 2 part urethane white with clear top coat, will be removed, in preparation for brush painted white por 15. And associated brush painted clear coat which will not chip or crack, and definitely never turn yellow, or can be returned to original spray gun Acrylic,


The body has not been sand blasted; the focus is strip back to bare metal using specific methods to prepare metal surface for paint adhesion, much courser abrasions on the metal surface than sand blasting or bead, and remove all spot weld chalking entire body, some extra seam and much extra spot welding throughout progressively all are made invisible, but still retain the extra strength, plus and all gaps between 2 pieces of spot welded metal that are accessible, are also cleaned with small metal files used to clean oxy cutting torch tips, and flat thin punches made or ground hack saw blades, my line of thought here is due to the adhesion properties of this paint, hardness and flexibility, I can add strength to spot welded areas by again spot welding in between the original spot welds, then slightly open the gaps and clean the gaps enough to allow me to work the paint in and around the spot weld themselves, and in fact gluing the areas or gaps in-between the spot welds, as well as sealing them any further oxidization,


Please note, I have or did many years ago, first paint two small sheet stripsof thin on surface and stuck them together, then coated them on the outside, and left it to cure, just samples to gain observations , my observations were the increase in strength is amazing, 2 metal layers laminated or set in-between 3 amazingly strong bonding paint products,






Front section , shows oxidization surface rust, with POR products I can remove all surface and internal rusted surface very and I repeat “ very “ quickly and ready to paint, the line of thought is a little more rust, is roughening up (pitting) the metal surface for better paint adhesion,
And in my 7 years of experience I can tell you this paint is much harder than Acyclic or two pack, much harder, and really flexible, [FONT=&quot]chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. I say, Amen to that, [/FONT]


My line of thought here is a rusting surface left rusting for a set period of time over a large surface will cause the surface rust to send down what I call rust roots, all over the exposed area and penetrate deeper, and at that point the above metal treatments, the rust is neutralized and easily removed, allowing the paint to be forced into these vacant rust root holes, when the paint is cured it has deep roots into the metal surface, and yes I agree, taking it to the max,






Next pic shows front floor section, please note this section is perfect in that there are no little dents in the floor panel, no rust repairs, also please note dull black paint on grey painted floor,
The small patch is por15 in direct sunlight for 2 years 4 months, dusty and dirty, never washed, leaves and dirt, , I can rub my finger on it and get black on my finger, very light and thin oxidization due to no UV protection, and a lot of UV exposure,






Next pic shows rear of car, please note the right rear taillight hole shows faded black paint, corner of lower panel as well, please note what was a shinny 2 pack Urethane white, 2 years ago with 2 pack urethane clear coat is oxidizing as well, very dull, due to direct UV exposure, no protection,



Next pic shows pussy cat foot prints in the 2 year four month dust, virtually no oxidization on paint surface, nice shine under the dust,






Next pic shows dust has been dusted off dry, except , where the foot prints were clearest, that cat will pay, rear parcel tray panel with radio speaker hole, please note, anyone can flex with panel with their hands , I can assure you when this panel was hand painted top and bottom, it’s over all thickness increased nearly 3 times, and was in my guess to be 2 x plus stronger or less flex then original, much less flex, also shows plenty of shine,
New guys please note, the flat shiny finish is all credited to the this paints ability to be brushed on and automateticaly flatten brush hair lines, and lay flat is amazing, on top or from underneath a flat panel, it is so easy to apply a flat shiny coat because the paint does do the hard part, by itself, that is my experience, it really works great, true value for money, “with a brush”,
More coming, back soon,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Picture shows a nice flat smooth shine all over, and is hard paint, please note, all spot weld chalking compound is removed, because after 42 years the chalking compound is cracked and pretty loose, the white chalking also often shows slight rust stains, right thought-out the body,






Next pic shows 5 yellow lines pointing out a beautiful flat smooth shiny original surface, red and blue arrows show microfiber cloth and s/s scourers pad, I used to buff the hard paint surface to the shine you see.,






Next pic shows inside back door dog leg, please note left of picture, outer dusty wheel arch shows the mirror reflection of the house and 2 trees above fence line, inside the dusted and buffed areas show excellent shine,






Next picture shows under the body, the underside of the floor, shows dust and growths, a quick buff with microfiber cloth will show as shinny and smooth surface as shinny as in the boot, also waiting for final coat,



The big picture is once the whole body shell has been painted as seen above, I will block it out and apply another black coat and then apply ,

[FONT=&quot]POR-15[/FONT][FONT=&quot], WHITECOTE cures to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]super-tough, “””” not UV-sensitive””””, and brilliantly white.[/FONT]
http://www.por15.com/WhiteCote_p_44.html
or, black,

POR15, [FONT=&quot]HARDNOSETM[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Paints will withstand even “”””””’the most intensive UV environments””””.[/FONT]
http://www.por15.com/HARDNOSE_p_43.html

I highly recommend this paint because small sections can be effectively rust proofed and strengthened, quickly with a paint brush,
Please click on this link, amazing read.,

Metal and paint bending demo.
[FONT=&quot]http://www.por15.com/POR-15-_p_8.html[/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to help bring my car, and my neighbors, to "concours" condition...I'll be going to a store that has Nu-Finish and I'll try it on the area where the clear-coat is peeling...
The peeling clear coat is on the "A" pillar just above the door and so it will be easy to apply THERE and nowhere else, making it a good experiment...it can't hurt to try...
"...you said before, his lights were pretty faded before the wash..." I don't think I said that...perhaps someone else said something like that about another car...not so with my neighbor's...his only need was for waxing his finish...but...
I do have a "light-weight" orbital sander and I'll get a wax application pad to use next time I "wax" my headlights...

....after I do these things next month I'll post any updates if there's anything to report...for now, we're all okay...Again, thanks...

great, a test area, great,my pleasure. no thanks necessary,

Just a few ideas, please,,

I can only buy Nu-finish from Autobahn here, might pay to try Autobahn first,

And I had the impression that your clear coat was fuzzy and not so flaking, so a picture or 2 of the area would be great, please,

My line of thought is, I can slightly reduce the visible appearance of light fuzzy oxidization, with a little extra rubbing, you may improve the visible appearance , nu-finish has a slight cutting abrasive edge to it, when rubbing with some force over a length of time,,

I have observed applying nu-finish on flaking clear coat will break away loose flaky clear coat, but generally does not change the visible appearance, that being said,

If you can clean the wax off the area before you apply nu-finish, the nu-finish can be rubbed into the oxidized surface, without trying to remove hash or flaky oxidization, and left to turn white maybe 30 mins, then lightly buffed to remove the white powder, then apply another coat of nu-finish, let it dry another 30 mins and then buff off the white dust, and park it in the direct sun, I think it fully cures in 3 weeks to a month when left in the sun allot, the bottle specifications will tell you to apply another coat 3 weeks after the first coat, each coating or layer increases the depth of shine, on a good, not oxidized surface,

Again, my line of thought is after you applied a few coats, UV radiation will not get through the hard cross linked zinc surface of the nu-finish to further damage anything, so your oxidization will SEALED, actually, if you applied a few coats, over a few months,
So, this will be worth doing, that would be great too.

Thanks for the heads up on the faded headlights mistake, I will back check posts asap. I think all details have be absolutely correct, when ya trying to help people,


Maybe you can find another neighbour or mother in-law to try applying a full coat of nu-finish, ??. You will have plenty left over,
That would be another interesting observation as well, ??.



You say,
I do have a "light-weight" orbital sander and I'll get a wax application pad to use next time I "wax" my headlights...


If you don’t mind, I would like to suggest you consider getting another spare buff pad, and some fine buffing compound and spend a little time to buff off any and all old wax, or old plastic invisible oxidization that was on your headlights before you purchased it, I really think a good buff / clean of your lenses, headlight, taillights, would bring them the same as your neighbours, concourse, before you apply your next coat of wax, ??. Just thoughts for your consideration,



Later, ,

 

[ino uno soweno]

can i get an aftershot of this 1/4 panel ino?

There are no AFTER pictures yet, still working on it, it is still a daily driver.

The pictures show a few coats of Nu-finish on it, but I still have to block p2500 the tops off un-even surfaces, in the Nu-finish layers, until it is super smooth, then I will put another coat or 2, that is one of the best advantages of Nu-finish, I can apply coats, let them cure, then block the hard polymer surface flat, apply more coats, and keep blocking until real flat, to get the depth and flatness for maximum shine, over some time,

In 17 years Nu-finish has never ever did anything like fade or peel or show oxidization from under Nu-finish, it has always sealed,

I could have had the whole GT4 repainted, for about $2,000 to $3000 for a exsperts paint job like you do, , or just clear coated it with an unknown Urethane blend cheapie for maybe $1,200, that was the Quotes,

But $80 in sand paper and stuff. And about 3/4 of a bottle of Nu-finish, $15 was allot cheaper,
No spray tin, or gun and compressor, just wipe it on, any time anywhere,

The pictures of the ford body above shows a exterior expensive white Urethane 2 Pak with clear coat, it mostly did not survive and faded in under 2 years 4 months in the extreme heat and dust in the car park,

Please note, pictures of the White Caldina sat there for over 3 years, and the Nu-finish was applied over a year before that, so even you can see the 4 year old shinny Nu-finish surface is still &#8220;Mirror&#8221; finish under the dirt,

For your information it is written on the bottle " there is no other formula like it" and all weather protection even against road chemicals and oxidization, meaning unlike like " Urethane ", it will not "oxidize",

In saying that, you have to remember the that the cured Nu-finish hard clear coat surface will not oxidize, but, air born and splash dirt like metal filing dust can settle on the Nu-finish surface and will oxidize or rust on to the Nu-finish hard surface, so if you clean it, or keep it clean, the surface will not oxidize, shown here,






As you well know, Urethane oxidizes and or even can turn yellow, even with 6-8 years of obsessive waxing protection,
[FONT=&quot]
Nu-finish will not oxidize or turn yellow, Fact is Nu-finish applied over Urethane stops Urethane from itself oxidizing, end of story,[/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

 

[ino uno soweno]

OOOps sorry, I did not see the double picture,

 

[ino uno soweno]

OH Black,

I am on the road all tomorrow, but I will try and get "some just after " pictures of some nasty flaking clear coat,

Here is some before pictures for you,





I will try to post some more tomorrow morning before I leave,

 

[Black2na]

Just wanted to see what it looks like. it did what I thought it would. It shines up nice but the base coat underneath has discolored due to sanding Prefect for a daily thought 10/50 and much better then before

 

[ino uno soweno]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Join Date: Nov 2010[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Location: Manchester NH[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Posts: 588 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Just wanted to see what it looks like. it did what I thought it would. It shines up nice but the base coat underneath has discolored due to sanding Prefect for a daily thought 10/50 and much better then before [/FONT]
​

I will not argue with you, I will just tell you, “you thought wrong again,”, that is just the light reflection between a horizontal and vertical surfaces, jeeeeeez, you are a exspert. Aye. ?


There is no over sanding the base coat colour, not even close at all, plenty of red colour base coat, You are wrong, again.



I suppose, I should grateful for you not slinging antisocial narcissistic comments in this post, unlike all your other posts,


And I see your disrespect and thuggery in following.


can i get an ---------- aftershot------- of this 1/4 panel------ ino?
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Just wanted to see what it looks like. it did what I thought it would. It shines up nice but the base coat underneath has ----------discolored----------- due to sanding
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Prefect for a daily thought 10/50 and much better -----then---- before-----[/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

OH Black,

I am on the road all tomorrow, but I will try and get "some just after " pictures of some nasty flaking clear coat,

Here is some before pictures for you,





I will try to post some more tomorrow morning before I leave,

This is a early Euros, ??., most exsperts here would insist on a new expensive respray. Just pay them,
As can be seen, $20 nu-finish, and sand paper, ??.

Please note, I quickly lightly sanded 2 test areas, with p2000 on the boot lid and door,, then applied Nu-finish,



Boot lid, please note, mirror reflection of trees,




Rear door,



Eye ball mirror finish.

 

[halik]

Wow that before and after on the quarter panel is way better than what I thought would be possible.

Also love POR15 here as well, used it all over my 911 for rust proofing. Proper drying time between coat is key for adhesion (2 hours? It was something excessively long).

 

[ino uno soweno]

Wow that before and after on the quarter panel is way better than what I thought would be possible.

Also love POR15 here as well, used it all over my 911 for rust proofing. Proper drying time between coat is key for adhesion (2 hours? It was something excessively long).

I am not sure the Eunos is a wrecker, scraper, or respray, ??. I will check and maybe, I can I will do more pictures, and restore a few more patches, the clear coat on the roof is cooked, I am sure it would surprise me on how well it would shine with a good machine sand, and machine buff, , , there is plenty if not all of the base colour depth /thickness to very lightly sand to and buff.


I could have done a lot better at the time, if I had power to machine sand and buff the areas you see, A young guy, could hand sand, wet and dry, and hand apply the Nu-finish, that whole car, in a day ?? ,


Por15 Porsche Protection”, sounds only right, Aye, ?.


Do you have salt on the roads where you are, ??.


And you are absolutely right, Love Por15, read the instruction twice, and do what they say and it works so easy, bit different then painting the dog kennel , but once you learn the tricks, Por15 is far more advanced paint technology then Acrylics and Urethanes, Form paint that is just resistant to UV , to virtually unaffected by UV, on a brush,


For those who have no experience in rust proofing your car, it is just so “ not brain surgery or dirty job, ”, to strip back a under body floor panel, and paint it a section at a time, no dust to talk of, no sand blasting, no mess up that cannot be sweep up, no paint stripper, just quickly remove old manufacture’s coatings, tar, grit, dirt, paint, from under body floor, like shearing a sheep, quickly treat surface rust, or rust pitted areas, and brush on a few coats of amazing paint, and forget it,


For those who have no desire to get under their cars to paint everything, We have a method we are beginning testing on the following 08 Outback,5 years old, it lives within 2 miles from some pretty wild coast line, so salt air and windblown sand is strong,, and is regularly driven on the beach for driving lessons, and fishing, all the local roads are sand blown, I will do some pictures of rust points of interest,


And work out some scenarios for cheapest methods,


But first and most relevant to outside salt and sand protection,


Story goes I have this red Outback to work on for the next 2 weeks 3 days, which I will work on in-between a few other cars, tomorrow is a nice ford work ute, metallic, blue, not sure of year model, red gt4 is getting closer, wheels do not fit,


So, I just wanted to have a quick buff around the outback,
Please note, the colour changes on the red oxidized paint as sun moves around the whole car during the day,


Bonnet is well faded, please note head light lens,




And some deep scratches,







Back soon,

 

[ino uno soweno]

[FONT=&quot]Left ( driver’s side, ) plastic mirror is not painted, just thin layer of coloured coded plastic, turning pink with [/FONT]UV radiation damage,






After a double light buff, the colour is stronger, I will wet sand red plastic lightly p2000 and buff again, should be good to go,






Passenger ( right side ) shows fading also, but being passenger side I would expect less fading than the driver’s side,





Passenger door and mirror show different faded colours, then the mud guard,






Whole door is faded compared to rear door, knowing the history of the car, I would suggest one possible reason was the door was damaged before sale, and repaired and repainted, by dealership, Car is always reversed into car port,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Passenger mirror buffs, but needs more,






Light wet and dry sand and buff brings colour on both guard and door a lot stronger,,






Different Angle, and light, please note shadows,





Different angle






I always buff all exterior glass, sand blasting from sand on the sides of most roads do dull auto glass, the regular compound polishes glass the best, back door window, small fixed rear side window, rear quarter panel between fixed window and rear hatch glass,






Plus small 1/5 of tail gate glass, down to top half of rear tail light, before I remembered to take a picture,
Back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Rear of outback shows fading all over, please note plastic panel above number plate is more faded,heavy oxodization on bumper,








This picture shows tailights buff well, rear bumper shows good colour,thin strip above number plate is not buffed, and number plate recess still shows a lot of fading, number plate will have to be removed, and double buffed,






Different angle, no sun light,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Point of interest here is polished clean glass slides down the weather stripes at the base of each door glass very easy,, the weather strips and most exterior black plastic is synthesized plastic /rubber, and also called plasticized metal, Black front and rear wipers arms, , weather strips, black plastic under or around exterior rear vision mirrors,( black door handles, other cars, ) are all buff able,
Next picture show black plasticized metal oxidization, Do not machine buff,



Next picture shows rear door glass weather strip, no oxidization, can and will be buffed with buffer on this Outback and most cars,








[FONT=&quot]Above picture shows front door weather strip, also will be buffed, please note, when buffing Syn rubber/plastic strips, I use the regular buffing compound, the compound has on occasion built up and dries out a little, this build up should “not” be attempted to be removed with the buff machine, it gets too hard, and builds heat too quickly, resulting with the dry compound impregnating the syn rubber, ( leaves a stain, ) so I either scratch it off with my finger nail or have a damp rag handy, and just wipe the dried built up compound, apply wet compound , and lightly buff until rubber /syn plastic is clean flat, and shiny, [/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

Computer was down last few days, ,
This picture shows passenger rear vision mirror after 1 quick sand with p2000 and buff has a good shine,, colour match is good in the right light and angle, black plastic under mirror onto door buffed well and is clean and shiny after cleaning with a damp microfiber cloth, black plastic weather strips and black plastic pillar covers also cleaned up, (buffing compound) and buffed up shiny with damp microfiber cloth, guard and faded door colour is almost correct, silver plasticized door handles buffed up, but have deep scratches, ( white spot left and lower door is paint chip, )( rear door dog leg has many stone chips, a lot of scratches and stone chips over the whole can, maybe 50, ?






Please note the dark mist under the microfiber cloth, and in and over the bonnet surface, , this is the oxidization on the paint surface, please note, in direct sun light, the oxidiation looks pink and faded, out of the sunlight and still in light,, oxidiation can be see as a dark or black cloud in the surface, all over the car,


Next pic shows the colour at the edge of the bonnet to guard is a much closer colour, which is the photo, or light, or angle, guard, front door , back door, rear quarter are all better colour match for just a buff,






From the rear looks ok, but , as I buffed it, I could see the slightest darkness in the colour, meaning as I buffed off the high spots on the oxidized faded clear coat surface layer, I could see buffing was not removing enough depth of oxidization, only on the high spots, which then shows clean clear red colour, low spots still showed dark shadow caused by oxidization,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Please note, this car has suffered 5 years in punishing hot sun salty conditions ,around 60,000k, lots of stone chips, and a kangaroo hit, ( broken headlight and misalignment of bumper, ) so oxidization depth was or is only on the surface of the original paint thickness,
In saying that, I would say just buffing would not and I observed did not remove the dark shadow layer or depth of oxidization, except on the high spots, to reach and remove the depth of oxidization in the low areas,
I lightly hand sand the whole of each panel, p2000 wet and dry, ,






With a focus to only sand the surface with only 3 rotations of the sand paper on any given small area, so it is only a light pressure sand, and I can feel the sanded surface, when it removes the oxidization layer, at that point I know the surface will be shiny, and the low areas where oxidization lay has been disturbed enough for the buffer to remove the oxidizing layer, ,







I could, but I am not going to use a sanding block which would remove a lot more paint and thickness to get a flat surface, and best shine,
[FONT=&quot]
What I am trying to do is leave as much paint on the car as possible, only buff the oxidization layer on high and low areas, leaving the paint surface with the original high low surface, but still remove all oxidization[/FONT]

 

[kitatech]

Private message sent....

 

[ino uno soweno]

Please note, I have posted previous pictures to show different light and angle to show “oxidization “in both 1, a light faded visual look, 2, to show DIY how the whitish faded oxidized changes into a dark thin misty cloud on and in the surface, (depending on light, and angle), each picture so far has been about “ only “ , buffing , sanding the “ least” amount of paint depth as possible, until I am through the layer of oxidization, slowly, slowly,

Back to the last picture above,
I could still see oxidization on the paint surface, so I changed sanding method from p2000 wet and dry, to p2000 fitted on to the orbital sander,
Then I “guided “the orbital sander, no down pressure, barely dulling the surface,
P2000 sanding paper on a orbital sander leaves a good coverage of fine shallow orbital scratches, Please note, these fine shallow scratches give me an all over buffing depth guide on flat surfaces only, So guessing, I would say 20 micron deep, under magnification looks like pitting,
My line of thought is oxidizing paint surface, (plastic, metal, ect, ) is mostly caused by road grime and chemicals ( salt ) attaching to the paint surface, and then oxidizing into the paint surface motivated by UVr,
This picture here shows where I used p2000 on the orbital sander, please note the shine and reflection is there, because p2000 is very fine, the surface shows where I lightly guided the orbital sander over the guard, doors ect surfaces,












Next pictures, I see the dark mist is removed and the oxidized layer has been removed by the reg buffing compound, very clean and good shine,











The bonnet,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Now, I have a depth guide, ( fine orbital sanding marks)
Please note, all the sanding and buffing I have previously done, is all about buffing first, then finding the depth of oxidization, ) I am now able to machines and the rest of the Outback ( bonnet ,roof, other side of car,) with the orbital vibrating sander with p2000 &#8220; very quickly&#8221;,
Please note, this picture shows the distinct dark misty shadow on the roof, compared to the rest of the Outback, that is a good picture of the roof UV damage, please compare the colour of guard, doors, &#8220;to the roof&#8221;.

Please note, Orbital Sander on bonnet with 2 dusted off sanded p2000 shinny areas,






This picture shows I am again and as always using the reflection of the surroundings while buffing to see &#8220;imperfections&#8221; on the surface of the paint, (small orbital scratch depth guide marks,





These pictures show mirror buff finish, ( please note when the entire vehicle is sanded and buffed with reg buffing compound,








I will high pressure blast clean any and all buffing compound and dirt off the car,
And rebuff with the whole car with very fine 3M Foam Polishing Glaze, pictures later,
Unless requested, I will not show any further pictures of this Outback as progress continues, Roof, drivers side, tailgate, , I will just post a few &#8220;finished&#8221; pictures, with another headlight fitted, in about 10 days,