Oxidizied / flaking clear coat solution,

[ino uno soweno]

0880, back floor section with bottle and small paint brush,



Loctite coat,





0047, across front floor


1018, driver side front floor has first quick coat, passenger side front and back is still rusty surface,



1085 shows floor is fully coated, ( 3 -4 coats, ) actually, all interior exterior surfaces have been coated, (inside the roof, door pillars, all pillars, under dash, ) please note I did not clean some small dust deposits, sorry, but the whole floor is sealed / primed on all exposed surfaces,





1086, shows ready for light sand and coating / painting with Acrylic or urethane, or other clear coat, or just re-place floor mats,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Still on subject, oxidization, and referring to a oxidizing problem on another post,


Sorry, I am crushed for time,

I would suggest the rust colour is oxidizing metal disc rotor metal, rust dust;

The clear coat they used on cheap wheels is pretty soft, so what is happening is the metal brake dust (rust) is oxidizing (eating / pitting) into the clear coat,

So, I personally would dissolve the oxidizing rusting metal with Por15, “metal ready “, this will convert the light brown rust seen in picture, into a Zinc Phosphate powder, combined with a excellent cleaner degreaser, you should be able to wash out of the clear coat, with soapy water a small plastic brush like a tooth brush,

That will leave you with some clean pitted dull clear coat sections, “for not a lot of effort”,


Again I see in the picture they are perhaps 12 spoke wheels, and guessing you will have about 24 3”spaces between each spoke to sand and polish on 2 wheels, and 48 spacers on 4 wheels, and each space around 3 to 4 inches, to reapply a ? Urethane $10 clear coat spray can,

That would be have to be sanded first lightly with wet p1200, then p1500, then sand with p2000, the pitting in some places can be seen to be deep, in your picture, so I suggest to get the best clear coat removal and metal polish finish, (just on the flat section between the spokes, ) you will have to use a metal polish, preferably powered like a drill, then the clear coat,

A big problem I have often found, if you sand it, the wheel may be painted that colour silver you see., and is not polished alloy that colour, , which means once you sand through the clear coat, you may accidently sand or break through the “thin “silver colour and find a lighter or darker colour alloy, so you may have to paint each or most of the sections or the whole wheel, ? Then clear coat again,

My suggestion would be to first coat the rust with a de-oxidizing solution and wash the rust off, that is pretty easy, rubber gloves and eye protection, a must, make no mistake, it bits, and you can also clean the back of the spoke that reflects a rust colour very easy, I would use a small paint brush to apply the deoxidiser inside and outside of the rim, I would apply and move on to the next wheel, it needs a little time to soak into the oxidization, then come back to the first wheel and re-wet ,

Then wash and rub the pitted clear coat areas with a microfiber cloth and soapy water, tooth brush. this should remove allot of the loose and exposed oxidized clear coat layer,

I would then apply 2 coats of Nu-finish, nu- finish is not a wax, and is very quick and easy to apply even between and on spoke wheels, , cures to a very hard surface, and the will not allow the clear coat remaining on the mag to be pitted by oxidizing disc brake metal for years,

I could not find a mag like yours for a demo, but thought this might explain my line of thought and experience and method, in removing brake rust dust on a wheel, steel or alloy, Por15 metal ready. Application, paint brush,
Below picture shows chrome rusting has started,

 

[ino uno soweno]

above picture points out areas that pitting and chrome lifting /bubbling has occurred,


Below picture shows wheel after good soaking with Por15 Metal Ready, and quick clean water wash, all brown oxidization has been converted and washed off,



In brighter light and a few feet back, this picture shows with 2 coats of Nu-Finish . please note, dark colour metal pit holes cannot really be seen,


Both cheap chrome /steel polished surfaces and cheap polished clear coat alloy surfaces can quickly oxidized or pitted by oxidizing ( rusting ) disc brake metal dust,
Nu-Finish in my experience and observation fills and seals clear coat pitting, and or chrome/steel pitting, also stop any further oxidization inside the pitting as well as the whole clear coat or chrome/steel surfaces. I recommend re-applying once a year on wheels, and use a microfiber cloth and soapy water to clean, shammy leather to dry, , ,

Still working on loctite ERT. Back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

 

[ino uno soweno]

While we are on wheels, these came my way, pretty dirty, and been exposed in a spray painters shop for over a year, but cannot see much yet,


4 x 20” x 8”, = $25 each,

Picture shows oxidation caused by brake dust rust, I just set these up ready for high pressure clean, and went for my camera, a friend thought he would just throw on some degreaser for me, before I got dry before pictures, ??.






This picture shows only outside rim with no degreaser yet, pretty dirty, very little gut rash, but plenty of dents on the rim edge inside and out lips,






This picture shows rims are still dirty after high pressure clean, poor degreaser,





testing. sorry, photobucket and firefox are giving me big probs,

 

[ino uno soweno]

This picture shows my quickest and easiest method to clean anything, Buff it off the accessible sections first, please note, I only buff the high exposed areas on the face of the rim, , then using the plastic bristle brush and with all the left over and rejected buffing compound , , I can rub and clean in the corners and around nut heads, everywhere on the front of the rim, very easy, please note rusting brake dust in and around the small nuts, .



This picture shows I already applied the Metal Ready to rear of mag, , and hosed off with water after it had time to soak, 10mins or so, just light paint brush pushing the metal ready into the corners, and keeping the dirty parts wet with M<R< method, the darker oxidation higher on the inside of the rim is the disc brake metal dust and road grim still embedded in the bubbling and pitted chrome surface, and on the lower side I have drill wire brushed the darker oxidization down to alloy, nice and clean but looks what it is, wrong, so on these rims, I think I will try to find a good chrome paint, and brush fill the rough pitting areas seen, then when the chrome paint is completely dry, I will apply 2 coats of nu-finish, to seal the rear of the wheel, more on that later,







Please note, I use a paint brush and just try to keep the whole wheel wet but not dripping, further wetting and keeping the suspect areas wet, please note, I use a paint brush because that way it only takes little or no effort, and I have cleaned all 4 wheels with less than a coffee cup full of Metal Ready, I highly recommend Por15 Metal Ready just as a degreaser cleaner, ( always wear rubber gloves and eye protection, ) for removing disc rotor dust rust on steel /chrome. Chrome alloy as above, not polished alloy, Straight polished alloy will discolour polished alloy,


Next picture shows 1 coat of Nu-finish, please note minor gutter rash, some small dents,




Next picture show other three rims shinned up ok with microfiber cloth, and waiting for 2 coats of nu-finish on the face,





I think they may fit the ute, ??.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Just some thoughts of mine that may interest someone, is there is 2 ways to look into a mirror, Bathroom, car rear view mirror, any mirror surface, clear glass at the right angle and light source acts as a mirror,


1, look into the mirror and focus to see your reflection, and the background, behind you,


2, re- focus in the right light and angle to see someone has not cleaned the mirror perfectly and now you can see the swirl and wipe marks type cloud / mist on the not perfectly cleaned the mirror surface,
Slight or light oxidization on a auto paint &#8220;surface&#8221; to me while buffing, looks like a slightly smeared mirror &#8220;surface&#8221;. So buffing is looking at both, into the colour to be clean, and the reflection behind and around me,


As opposed to bad oxidization and visible pitting and loss of shine, my line of thought is if there is any visible loss of shine or pitting on the roof ,bonnet, boot, there must be some oxidation on or over the parts of the whole car,


Back asap,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Ps,
Back to above 20” x 8” mags, just to be a little more clearer I hope, my method of cleaning and polishing “those” mags was to first give them a quick high pressure clean or hose down, just to remove the bulk of the dirt and grit, , then first buff the face first, ( there was no rusting brake dust on the face, except in the gaps around the small bolts, )please note I do not think buffing rust dust off works, ) once I buffed as much of the open face, I turned the rim around, and applied Metal Ready, let it soak, ( in cool environment condition, hot environmental conditions dries out pretty quick, ) then turned the rim back to the face, and soaked the rust dust around the small nuts, then hosed off the still wet metal ready, which had already dissolved the excess buff compound, meaning I have saved time by hosing both buff compound and Metal ready residue at the same time, to save time,


My line of thought is to use a method, that is the quickest and easiest method for those wheels and situation,
The above op mag wheel rust dust problem,


And to the 12 slot chrome steel wheel I suggest the rust dust be treated and cleaned with metal ready “ first”, then buff if possible or required, then 2 coats of nu-finish,


Other mags in different situation might require a different method, again, please note , do not use metal ready on polished alloy,

 

[Meghan54]

So, from what I've been able to glean from your paint work, you basically sand off/remove the offending clear coat and then polish the underlying paint coat. And that give you unending work every month or two having to repolish the exposed paint, even using nu-polish, a product that's over 20 years old by now...nothing new.

Wonder why all the work when a repaint with clear would solve all the problems and prevent having to do work every month?

 

[Black2na]

So, from what I've been able to glean from your paint work, you basically sand off/remove the offending clear coat and then polish the underlying paint coat. And that give you unending work every month or two having to repolish the exposed paint, even using nu-polish, a product that's over 20 years old by now...nothing new.

Wonder why all the work when a repaint with clear would solve all the problems and prevent having to do work every month?

The forum in general came to that conclusion. All acknowledging his thread does is feed the troll. All your gonna get from this is no answer and whatever you say twisted around and thrown back at you! Me and JCH13 went round after round with him and nobody won

 

[Meghan54]

The forum in general came to that conclusion. All acknowledging his thread does is feed the troll. All your gonna get from this is no answer and whatever you say twisted around and thrown back at you! Me and JCH13 went round after round with him and nobody won

Actually, you two did provide the basis for plenty of laughs. The OP's insistence that he's NOT sanding off the clear, despite sandpaper galore being used, and his "proof" was hilarious. Sometimes trolling a troll creates lulz when it's a slow day. Besides, his convoluted explanations are gold by themselves. Almost incomprehensible, but pure comedic gold.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Lucky I can post while i am laughing so hard,



Heads up, good news, as previously mentioned, I can’t keep posting for much longer, sick,


So,with no further delay,



For the new guy, some of my tips at buffing a car you may wish to consider,


If it is the first time you have tried to buff, try this,


First, place a very small amount of G3 regular buffing paste, on the largest area of front or side or rear windscreen on the car you are going to buff, big side windows are good for this observation,


Then using the weight and balance of the machine to buff a small area or section of glass, as the compound cuts it is also thrown away from the small area you are buffing, the patch or area of glass being buffed will soon appear clear clean and shinny,


Then wash the excess compound splatter off and allow to dry, please take time to look at the glass surface where it has been buffed, and the rest of the glass,
Then, buff “all” the glass on the car before trying to buff any paint, it is good buffing practice to start with. You cannot buff through the glass, and you will see how easy it is to remove the same oxidizing road grim that is most probably all over the car, , and how to buff the glass super clean,



Please note, I mean, “super clean”, and buff compound washes of easy, ( preferably a high pressure wash off, )


Also, some naughty thoughts observations and ex[ereince, I have about clean glass, is,


1, Auto Glass is hard but still a liquid,, strongest acids come in a glass or plastic bottle, , UV stable, meaning sunlight or High and low level ultra violet radiation are irrelevant and most pass through, will chip, but will not pit due to any oxidization, get dirty, hard to clean, and to keep clean,


2, Glass protection, ? ,


3,No, Not glass protection,” trim inside” the glass, we all know UV fades and cracks plastic trim, so I apply Nu-finish on buffed glass, based on 3 lines of thought and experience,


1, My belief is a good few coats of Nu-finish on glass converts the UV rays into heat, and greatly cuts down UV passing through the glass to damage on interior trim, still leaving a clean clear window, ( do not apply nu-finish under wiper blades.


2, The biggest advantage for me is nu-finish “Really easy cleaning the glass on cars”, the mirrors on cars, mirrors or glass anywhere, just quickly apply on the glass, depending on the environmental temperature, leave it until it turns to a white haze, then very quickly and easy wipe and hand buff off, ( you must wipe and fold the soft cloth continuously, ) No rubbing hard required, so it is easy to put it on, and easy to get off, and call me crazy, but please note, I am convinced glass that when I apply Nu-finish, I think it looks cleaner, I know it is easier to clean, and as it says on the bottle, “shine and protection for the whole year, ..Even after 52 automatic car washes.


3, And I think it is just a crying shame buff cleaning glass, is too messy to buff the windows inside a car,


Ps, back to above 20” x 8” mags, just to be a little more clearer I hope, my method of cleaning and polishing “those” mags was to first give them a quick high pressure clean or hose down, just to remove the bulk of the dirt and grit, , then first buff the face first, ( there was no rusting brake dust on the face, except in the gaps around the small bolts, )please note I do not think buffing rust dust off works, ) once I buffed as much of the open face, I turned the rim around, and applied Metal Ready, let it soak, ( in cool environment condition, hot environmental conditions dries out pretty quick, ) then turned the rim back to the face, and soaked the rust dust around the small nuts, then hosed off the still wet metal ready, which had already dissolved the excess buff compound, meaning I have saved time by hosing both buff compound and Metal ready residue at the same time, to save time,


My line of thought is to use a method, that is the quickest and easiest method for those wheels and situation,


The above op mag wheel rust dust problem situation,
And to the 12 slot chrome steel wheel situation, I suggest the rust dust be treated and cleaned with metal ready “ first”, then buff if possible or required, then 2 coats of nu-finish,


Other mags in different situation might require a different method, again, please note , do not use metal ready on polished alloy, eats rust and alloy,
Back asap,with the second and other use and my method for Locktite ERT,

 

[ino uno soweno]

My Second method or use of Locktite ERT is to coat or spray and rust proof inside of all the panels on the above 71 ford shell,


My line of thought and experience, is a or what I call “ key hole rust proofing “ which basically poking a thin plastic tube about 4 foot long with a tiny spray nozzle on it, into holes and cracks to gain access to and in cavities and be able to apply Loctite ERT everywhere,


I miss placed my old DIY spray and pump set up, so this picture shows my new spray and pump set up, being built, not quite complete yet, sorry,






Above picture shows.


A, my drill, please note red arrow points to adjustable speed control, that I set at a very low rpm, variable speed battery drill would work too, at low RPM.


B, show hardware house brought plastic fluid drill pump, rubber impellor, $12,


C, is 2 screw on metal or plastic fitting with ¼ “ pipe, inlet and out let pipes, buy em or make em,


D, is curled up plastic tube that sucks Loctite from the bottle, into the pump,


E, is the actual plastic ¼ tube that I will fed into hard to get places, please note 1, is the spray nozzle and next sketch, below,






This is an attempt at an enlarged sketch of the nozzle, black line indicates black plactic tube pressed over gray connecting tube which is pressed inside of slightly large nozzle tube, all around 1/4'” dia, metal tubes are just small off cuts, cut on angle, and squeezed together jet orifice, to create a fan type spray pattern, when the drill is running,


My line of thought is anyone can get a large sealed card board box, and cut a 3” hole in the side, then push a spray can through the hole into the box while holding the can, then put your whole arm inside the box,, then without seeing anything inside the box, anyone can spray the inside of the box without seeing what they are actually doing, except looking at the outside of the box,


In the same manner I can feed the tube into all these cavities,


This picture is of engine bay, yess I painted the other rail white just to try and imagine what the engine bay and car would look like red or white, and to show colour painted over the Locktite.






Please note the blue lines indicate the size of the main vent box, and yellow arrows show entry point where a can feed in the nozzle and plastic tube,


Next picture blue lines shows lower chassis rail, and upper support tube, Painted white, , again yellow arrows show access holes,






Please note, if I have extra or many entry holes, I usually put tape over the holes I am not actually using to gain access, so the spray of locktite does not go everywhere. And or run or drip from vent holes,


Next picture rear roof pillar, blue lines, and yellow arrows show access,




Next picture shows inner roof support, blue lines, show size of cavity, yellow arrows show, access points,




Back soon,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Meg.


I am puzzled about what you said,


Your first post, you wrote.


“You basically sand off/remove”


Your next post you wrote,


“The OP's insistence that he's NOT sanding off the clear”,


Could you please make up your mind? . are you twisting it to the right, or are you twisting it to the left, ??.


Please copy and paste, where you gleaned where I said, , I “INSIST” I did not sand the clear coat. And post it. I would like to see that.


Also you wrote,


“”Wonder why all the work when a repaint with clear would solve all the problems and prevent having to do work every month?,”””


1, “ solve all the problems and prevent having to do work every month?, “ this statement is misleading, because it gives no time line, like how long it will last, and if you are using a wax to protect it, under cover or left in the sun, we need more specific information, not wild talk, pictures talk, b/s walks.


2, I have shown in the Caldina pictures and references above, for example.


A, the paint surface on this car is as you can see in the pictures, IS “ original “ 16 year old paint, over the last 6 years, Nu-finish was applied 2007, ( two coats 30 days apart, ) and 2009,( no buff, 1 coat, with over 30,000k travelled in that period, then left around 4 years in extreme environmental conditions, unwashed and uncovered, after pictures taken at the end 0f 2013, yes I buffed the nu-finish surface, and applied 2 coats of nu-finish, show the paint surface is original, absolutely no visible oxidization at all can be found on the base colour (white,) coat layer, and has a added 3 layer deep mirror image shine, after 6 years,
B,Please note that is about $20 worth of nu-finish as opposed to your idea to re-clear coat, which would cost $2.500. respray clear coat gives a much shorter paint life span, and more work waxing? Also I have seen plenty of bad clear coats repaint most of which I have had to restore by removing it.


C., I have no reason to believe the paint surface will NOT remain the same (original) for another 16 plus years in the same conditions, even with similar wash and cover conditions, , and I will debate that, with pictures, with anyone with pictures, ( again, pictures, please.)


D, just in case you missed it meg, nu-finish was applied 2007, and again “2 years later, 2009”, and again “4 YEARS LATER, 2013-14, not monthly, not

2 months, not 6 months, not 12 months, 2 years and 4 years, so please do not twist those facts again, by inferring Nu-finish needs to be “WORKED ON”, “monthly . “.


E, I believe Nu-finish cures hard enough not to be scratched with a suds broom and grit on the car at the car wash, so I scrub /wash the car, then high pressure clean water to remove all suds, then a quick wipe dry with leather shammy, TOO EASY AND QUICK CAR WASH.


I look forward to clarifying your mistakes for you.,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Any time you are ready meg,now would be good, but please be specific


“The OP's insistence that he's NOT sanding off the clear “, that is what you said, please copy and paste, and post number please.



I really think we need to concentrate on this point of fact, and not going off babbling about anything else,


Nock , nock, are you there, ??.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Black,


Looks like your &#8220;second tag nag team partner&#8221; has not got the goolies or the facts to back up his twisted posts, and run away,


I note in your post, you speak for all the forum, &#8220;the forum in general &#8220; &#8220;all acknowledging his thread&#8221;, what a wanker you are,




I did answer, and you said I would not answer, so you are wrong ,


I did not twist what he said, I only asked him to make up his mind, but no answer.??. you are wrong again,


Yes , you and your other tag team partner went round after round but you stopped posting , not me,


Make no mistake I am the &#8220; winner&#8221;, I have been the &#8220;winner&#8221; for 16 +years, my proof is the Nu-finish on my Caldina has completely protected the original paint surface, the pictures are the proof,


I see NO pictures or facts, or proof in your posts, only that I am twisting something,


New guys please note that on my Caldina, I buffed the Nu-finish on panels as seen in the above pictures, and I left a section on the roof still unwashed, and other panels washed but not buffed,


My line of thought is after so many years 4 of being unwashed and uncovered, I really did not have to actually machine buff the Nu-finish coating, I could have or should have been able to wash off the gummy residue, so I have and will prepare some pictures of further observations asap,

 

[JCH13]

Ino,

I stopped posting or responding to your posts because I found it totally impossible to have any sort of reasoned discussion with you. You seem unable to understand simple concepts, unable to communicate your ideas effectively, and unable to type one complete sentence with proper spelling and punctuation. Or any reasonable facsimile thereof.

In your responses to my posts you generally completely ignore any valid point I made. Instead you choose to pick one nit of a detail, misinterpret it, and then go on a long, rambling, often incorrect explanation about how that minusha of information was a lie, and then conclude that everything I ever said was incorrect.

To be clear, and to be on the record:

Clear coats are a relatively long-term solution to preventing oxidation or degradation of the paint or plastics they cover. Clear coats are generally comprised of materials designed specifically to withstand sunlight, UV, weather, etc. which is why they're used on cars in the first place. A clear coat will generally last many years.

Buffing, waxing, nu-finish, and other sorts of similar surface treatments do work to prevent oxidation of paint/plastic. Temporarily. Some last weeks, other last months. They all require maintenance though, and to some people that is too much of a hassle to bother with.

Both are a valid solutions to problems like oxidized or discolored paint and oxidized headlight plastic. However, re-spraying clear coat is a good choice for many people because it requires little or no maintenance afterwards, provides limited additional scratch protection, and will last for years. Re-spraying will generally cost more money than sanding/waxing/buffing/nu-finishing/whatever, but it will definitely cost less time. Having more free time is worth the money to some people.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

hehe, agreed JCH13. If Time=Money then I can sacrifice some money to gain more time, and vice versa. I used that argument in my Silver MR2 thread when I needed to justify buying expensive tools.
What Ino provides is possibly the least expensive option, but its the most time exhausting in the long term.

Anyways. Can this thread now be about funny GIF's and pictures of cats?

 

[ino uno soweno]

JCH you said,


Buffing, waxing, nu-finish, and other sorts of similar surface treatments do work to prevent oxidation of paint/plastic. Temporarily. Some last weeks, other last months.


Fuzzy, (you cute little pussy cat lover). You said,


" but its “””the”””” most time exhausting in the long term ".


To be clear, and to be on “ YOUR “ record,






You and black have been sniffing too much squirrel piss in your garage. Which does explain the stupid colours on your little car?.

 

[Davidjohn]

In the above picture, paint has been removed due to exposure to sun light. I don't know why plastic bottle caps are inserted in the car. Rubber plays a vital role because most of the mechanical object such as vibration mounts, wiper blades are inbuilt in cars.

 

[ino uno soweno]

I am happy to help.

Could you please state post number with picture to which you refer,

 

[JCH13]

JCH you said,


Buffing, waxing, nu-finish, and other sorts of similar surface treatments do work to prevent oxidation of paint/plastic. Temporarily. Some last weeks, other last months.


Fuzzy, (you cute little pussy cat lover). You said,


" but its “””the”””” most time exhausting in the long term ".


To be clear, and to be on “ YOUR “ record,


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/philburridge/Photo1152_zpsa70a22a6.jpg



You and black have been sniffing too much squirrel piss in your garage. Which does explain the stupid colours on your little car?.

See what I mean about picking one little nit and going to town with it? 1 year = 12 months, saying that nu finish lasts months is technically accurate.

Also, real classy with the personal insults. I am so glad that you can act like an adult.

 

[Meghan54]

Also, real classy with the personal insults. I am so glad that you can act like an adult.

He can't help it. It pays very little being a shill for Nu Finish. Payola from them sucks donkey balls....how else can you explain the childishness and sheer ignorance posted by the OP? And the never ending verbatim repetition of Nu Finish's advertising from the OP?

He's just a childish putz....best to just ignore like everyone else does.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Ok, I searched through the pictures, and the only plastic bottle tops I found, ( 2x, one blue, one yellow, )page 1, post 25, I used them to de-flake the flaking clear coat, off the base colour,(red), and I do not use bottle tops for mounting anything, just to remove the flaking clear coat, and clear coat that would soon be flaking, worked well,
I will take that advice meg, and ignore you and your friends in future, but I will keep posting as long as I can to encourage others to spend $20 just to try for themselves,


So.


As I previously said, and referring to the observations on the Caldina, that I was not happy with the removal of the gummy oxidizing top covering with Goof –off, and whether or not I needed to machine buff the Goof- residue off,


I tried to think of another solvent instead of Goof-off, and well, the penny dropped, and I tried Por15 metal ready, remembering that Metal Ready is for de-oxidizing rusty surfaces and not really splashed around the outside of the car,


As shown in the following picture, I just dipped the end of the rag in metal ready, and 3-4 years of gummy layer came off easy, and with same rag wiped and buffed the surface to a %95 mirror image reflection, original factory paint surface, For the record, I could not find any oxidization on the nu-finish surface,


So , for the record, please note, unwashed and uncovered, open to an hostile environment, ( 20 unit metal fab complex, car park, plenty of metal dust blown around everywhere, ) , First application of Nu-finish, Once a year car polish, 2007, second application 2009, 3-4 years in car park, to 2014, and the Nu-finish surface shows no oxidization, and a %95 MIR.






Black arrows pointing forward of roof show where I used Goof off and detergent to remove gummy layer, then used detergent to remove the goof off, same arrows pointing back show original and intact oxidizing gummy layer small area,( back half of the roof, ) and blue arrows show area where I wiped the grim off,, leaving fair mirror reflection considering light and angle, I personally looking from all angles, I think the reflection is better than shown in the picture, as 2007 when I put it on,


So bottom line to me is written on the bottle,

“Independent tests have proven that Nu-finish will bead, shine and protect for a whole year … even after 52 automatic car washes ! “,


My line of thought is if I do not put the car through 52 automatic car washes, the nu-finish will last a lot longer, much longer, and that has been my experience over the last 20 odd years, for the record.


(please note, asap I will be removing all wheels and brake callipers for 4 years rust removal and painting, restore and to see and show what 4 years of rust look like, )


Back asap. With more on loctite,

 

[Meghan54]

Oooooo....I coat the windshield with NuFinish to cut down on UV.

Stupid idea and no sound reasoning behind it. Very little if any UV penetrates the windshield. The majority of UV-B is absorbed by the glass itself, and any remaining UV-B together with most of the UV-A is absorbed by the PVB bonding layer. And UV isn't much of a problem with passenger or rear windows, either. Combination of glass (UV absorption again) and tinting on the windows.

I tend to think most of the fading of car interior plastics is by IR, not UV. This is especially noticed by the red interiors of cars fading and color changing much faster than other colors. While all colors can and will be affected by IR, the red interiors will be hit much faster.