Oxidizied / flaking clear coat solution,

[ino uno soweno]

So... you've been playing with mercury for the last 20 years? Well then, that explains the cognitive and neurological damage...

Seriously though, amalgamation is not corrosion. Corrosion mechanisms involve an electro-chemical reaction whereas amalgamation does not. In fact, amalgamation can be used as a corrosion inhibitor in zinc.

So what you are saying is, corrosion " can only be" a electro-chemical reaction, ????:whiste:

All corrosion is a electro-chemical reaction, ???, yes or no. ??.

And I will ask again, did you recently delete a post on this thread, ???

 

[JCH13]

So what you are saying is, corrosion " can only be" a electro-chemical reaction, ????:whiste:

All corrosion is a electro-chemical reaction, ???, yes or no. ??.

And I will ask again, did you recently delete a post on this thread, ???

I'll make this as blunt and general as possible because apparently my previous post wasn't: corrosion and amalgomation describe different chemical processes/phenomena.

Citing wiki, so you don't have to take my word for it.

An amalgam is a substance formed by the reaction of mercury with another metal.

or...

In general, amalgamation is the process of combining or uniting multiple entities into one form.

As compared to:

Corrosion is the gradual destruction of materials, (usually metals), by chemical reaction with its environment.

In the most common use of the word, this means electrochemical oxidation of metals in reaction with an oxidant such as oxygen.

To expand on what oxidation is...

Redox (reduction-oxidation) reactions include all chemical reactions in which atoms have their oxidation state changed; redox reactions generally involve the transfer of electrons between species.

When electrons are transferred between species during a chemical reaction, that is an electrochemical reaction.

The key difference, in laymans terms that I hope even you can understand, is that amalgomation is a process of combining and creation, whereas corrosion is a process of removal and destruction.

I have never deleted a post in this thread.

 

[Meghan54]

When electrons are transferred between species during a chemical reaction, that is an electrochemical reaction.

The key difference, in laymans terms that I hope even you can understand, is that amalgomation is a process of combining and creation, whereas corrosion is a process of removal and destruction.

Guess he doesn't understand dental (mercury) amalgam tooth fillings.

Approximately half of a dental amalgam filling is liquid mercury and the other half is a powdered alloy of silver, tin, and copper. Mercury is used to bind the alloy particles together into a strong, durable, and solid filling. Mercury’s unique properties (it is the only metal that is a liquid at room temperature and that bonds well with the powdered alloy) make it an important component of dental amalgam that contributes to its durability.

And guess what....the mercury does not destroy or corrode the other metals.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Guess he doesn't understand dental (mercury) amalgam tooth fillings.

Approximately half of a dental amalgam filling is liquid mercury and the other half is a powdered alloy of silver, tin, and copper. Mercury is used to bind the alloy particles together into a strong, durable, and solid filling. Mercury’s unique properties (it is the only metal that is a liquid at room temperature and that bonds well with the powdered alloy) make it an important component of dental amalgam that contributes to its durability.

And guess what....the mercury does not destroy or corrode the other metals.

So far in 2014, you are the ( in layman terms ) THE BIGGEST FOOL WANKER,:twisted: YOUR POST IS STUPID and dangerous/. LIKE YOU.

[FONT=&quot]Your inquiry about Mercury Toxicity[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Recent material received from the ADA (Australian Dental Association) shows that they cannot furnish evidence of compatibility of mercury in the oral cavity.
That is not surprising, since mercury and all of its components are toxic.
In the past, the dental profession has held the position that mercury does not come out of amalgam fillings. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The claim is readily dispelled by simply having a patient who has mercury-silver restorations (amalgams) chew vigorously for a few minutes and then analysing the air in that patient's mouth with a mercury vapour detector. We consistently find when we perform this test SIGNIFICANT mercury vapour levels. Whether the filling is one or ten years old, the amount of vapour detected is frequently in the hazardous range.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This is not a new discovery. For instance, even in 1949, Dr Ralph Phillips published the results of studying 100 fillings at random. Age was not a factor in the study. He found mercury contents in fillings ranged from 24.95% up to 64.95%. Newly placed amalgams are currently made with an average of 52% pure mercury although amalgams in the past were sometimes made with an even greater percentage of mercury.
But the 24.95% noted by Dr Phillips is at least a 50% decreases from the amount of mercury in those fillings when they were originally made.
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Where did the mercury go, and if it became absorbed into the body, what impact does it have on your health?"[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Mercury and the impact on your health[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]As mercury is released from your amalgam fillings, it tends to react with your body chemicals and bacteria to form various toxic mercurials. By far the most dangerous is methylmercury, which can be formed by several different mechanisms and incorporated into your body. Once incorporated, this methylmercury has adverse effects on neurological, cardiac, vascular, digestive, endocrine and other tissues.

[FONT=&quot]Virtually everyone reacts to the presence of mercury. [/FONT]This universal reaction, however, is not easily seen in all people who have mercury-silver fillings. Only some people react strongly enough to require medical help. Unfortunately, this medical help is usually unsuccessful as long as mercury remains in the body. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Contamination and your health[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]While some people show very little outward reaction to mercury, even minimal contamination can affect your health.
Recent research by the Toxic Element Research Foundation (TERF) indicates that at least 67% of the test subjects showed a measurable systemic reactivity with mercury and its components as might be expected in patients with amalgam. Patient reactions to the mercury, however, varied.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Some experienced only a slight change in their immune system. This might result in three colds per winter instead of two, or an elevation of 2000-3000 in their white blood cell count. The more highly reactive patient, however, could become totally incapacitated with neurologic, cardiac, gastrointestinal or immune complications resulting from the effects of mercury in the body.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The point is that mercury should not be placed in the mouth- even just a few percent (let alone 67%) of the population react adversely.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]What happens to the mercury[/FONT][FONT=&quot] in your fillings[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [FONT=&quot]after it it released from the amalgam.[/FONT]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Many things.
It can go into the nasal sinus and subsequently into the brain, or it might be absorbed into the blood through the lungs or within the mouth. In addition, mercury could be further modified and bound into complex molecules for absorption within the stomach and gastrointestinal tract. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Once absorbed into the body, the mercury tends to concentrate and bind to certain selective 'target tissues'. This contributes to the development of a variety of disease manifestations. One of the most tragic problems from this concentration process comes when the mercury which is bound to red blood cells exchanges and crosses the placental barrier, where it concentrates as much as 30% higher in foetal blood than in mother's blood.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What diseases[/FONT][FONT=&quot] do those who react develop?[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Briefly, there are five divisions of diseases that we have seen improve with Total Dental Revision.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1. Neurological [/FONT][FONT=&quot]- including emotional responses such as depression, anxiety and irritability as well as neural effects such as facial twitches, muscle spasms, epilepsy and multiple sclerosis.
2. Cardiovascular - unexplained rapid heart rate and / or unidentified chest pains.
3. Collagen diseases - such as arthritis, scleroderma and lupis.
4. Immunologic - lowering the body's defence system capacity and the viability of white blood cells.
5. Allergies and fatigue - mercury can alter chemistries so that some people become sensitive to foods and chemicals. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Electrical current[/FONT][FONT=&quot] with the power to destroy[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Two dissimilar metals in a saliva environment will produce electrical current by galvanic action, and become a battery of sorts. The five metals frequently found in most amalgam formulations produce an even more complex battery. The electrical currents produced by amalgam are far greater in magnitude than the sensitive electrical currents the brain operates on, and are far greater than the current that activates acupuncture meridians.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]These abnormal electrical currents can cause or contribute to a wide variety of symptoms and disease. Amalgam removal in patients who have conditions related to galvanic electrical generation sometimes produces almost immediate improvements.
One woman with a headache of 17 years duration had total relief before the dental appointment was over.
Can this be due to metal toxicity? Probably not. Rapid improvements may be due to removal of electrical currents produced by the amalgam battery. Modern investigation has only recently begun to examine this important problem area.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]How we rid [/FONT][FONT=&quot]mercury and dental toxins from your system[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]The most important guidelines for mercury - toxic patients is that they must NOT rush out and have their amalgams removed.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A four step plan is the key to success and health restoration:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]DIET SUPPLEMENTATION APPOINTMENTS REMOVAL REPLACEMENT[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Symptoms and Signs of Mercury Toxicity[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
Some of the most common signs and symptoms of Mercury exposure include:

Irritability
Fits of anger
Lack of energy
Fatigue
Low self esteem
Drowsiness
Decline of intellect
Low self control
Nervousness
Memory loss
Depression
Anxiety
Shyness / timidity
Insomnia[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]MORE SYMPTOMS
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Are you mercury toxic?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Fact:[/FONT][FONT=&quot]"Silver" or amalgam dental fillings contain from 48-55 % mercury, 33-35% silver, and various amounts of copper, tin, zinc and other metals. Since mercury is the major component of the material, any representation of the material should include the word "mercury". Thus at this practice, we refer to them as mercury dental fillings.
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Fact:[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Mercury is a powerful poison. Published research has shown that mercury, even in small amounts is more toxic than lead, cadmium and even arsenic.
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
Fact:[/FONT][FONT=&quot]The mercury vapour released from mercury dental fillings is absorbed very rapidly and thoroughly in your body primarily by inhalation and swallowing.[/FONT]


You are a idiot defuss fool, for posting that crap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

[FONT=&quot]halik [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Lifer[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Join Date: Oct 2000[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Posts: 23,998[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Not totally sure why people are freaking out, every time you take your car to a proper detail, you'll get a layer of clear removed to get perfect reflection. Cutting and buffing paint is fine, so long you don't overdo it. [/FONT]
​

[FONT=&quot] I totally agree, “Cutting and buffing paint is fine, so long you don't overdo it”. Words of wisdom, and first rule of buffing, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]:\ Unfortunately, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A lot of the time on older cars, we need to remove a little oxidization, or peeling clear coat, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here is 3 cars I am working on right now,
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]You can see the bird shit burns through the clear coat. on this bonnet,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] , [/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Clear coat is lifting.[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Dull white paint on bonnet, roof and boot, nice car for a 74 year old driver,
[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]I love the mags we are fitting, after we clean them up.
[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

 

[WoodButcher]

Ino, we know mercury is toxic, that does not mean corrosive.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Ino, we know mercury is toxic, do you also recommend Amalgam fillings for kids teeth.??.

Please explain,"that does not mean it is corrosive". what experience do you have in dealing and handling Hg.??. please,

 

[ecox1]

I just, can't, comprehend. I'm going to say that Ino, you are WRONG (and putting words in everyones mouth), sorry but corrosion and what you are describing are two VERY different things. I probably won't post anymore in here since I don't want a vacation.

 

[Meghan54]

You are a cheese eating surrender monkey idiot defuss fool, for posting that crap.

That shoe fits you well, doesn't it? No one was talking about how bad dental amalgam fillings were or weren't....but again, you twist what's being talked about into something completely irrelevant and not germane to what the subject was being discussed. You really ought to have yourself checked out for mercury poisoning, given your stupidity and ignorance in speaking directly to the subject at hand. But, given your propensity to twist conversations into completely irrelevant tangents, what else can one expect from a wanker, a twit, a complete putz who makes a dog's breakfast out of anything.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Lol, Dogs breakfast!

Disclaimer from Ino's source

Eric Davis Dental web sit is a site designed to inform patients about alternatives to traditional dental procedures and materials. The opinions presented at Eric Davis Dental are controversial and many are disputed by other dental practitioners. Dr Davis expressly disclaims all liability arising out of the improper use of the information provided. Please consult your treating physician or other dental professional regarding these important health issues.

Im excited to find out what the next topic of this thread will be.

 

[phucheneh]

What in the world did this thread turn into...I'm performing the typical practice of saying 'wait...what?' and skipping back through pages to see what I missed...and I just can't seem to track whatever the hell is being discussed here.

I thought this was basically a thread about his techniques for detailing cars. Some good stuff...some stuff that works...but also a lot of stuff that is really just a bit of snakery to help move used cars (i.e. 'this ain't gonna be shiny for long'). In what context did mercury originally come up, again?

 

[WoodButcher]

Ino claims mercury is a corrosive metal and does not seem able to differentiate toxic from corrosive.

 

[ino uno soweno]

[FONT=&quot]phucheneh [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Diamond Member[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Join Date: Jun 2012[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Posts: 5,044[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]What in the world did this thread turn into...I'm performing the typical practice of saying 'wait...what?' and skipping back through pages to see what I missed...and I just can't seem to track whatever the hell is being discussed here.

I thought this was basically a thread about his techniques for detailing cars. Some good stuff...some stuff that works...but also a lot of stuff that is really just a bit of snakery to help move used cars (i.e. 'this ain't gonna be shiny for long'). In what context did mercury originally come up, again?[/FONT]
​

[FONT=&quot]"a thread about his techniques for detailing cars. Some good stuff...some stuff that works...but also a lot of stuff that is really just a bit of snakery to help move used cars", [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Well thanks Phucheneh, and welcome, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]It is nice to hear some kind words from a respected pier. I do enjoy your posts greatly; your stuff is very enlightening, and always well said. thanks.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I am very sorry for the slightly hard to follow posts, I am just trying to show methods I use that work for me for the last 20 years, after doing 20 years waxing type stuff, first, but circumstances change quickly around here, I do not often get to do what I plan to do, as something always pops up,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Like the 3 cars I am buffing now, a 7 day buffing x-mass present to a long time friend, ( My friend asked why will it will take 7 days, ??. I tell him, “ cause between us two old farts, we got 134 years, that is why it take 7 days, LOL.maybe 10 days, ?? ) who has just become ill and unable and disabled, so I need to jump in and move things alone for him, get him from 4 cars back to 2 cars, asap, and my plan for this 7 x-mass break was to do my Caldina brakes with pictures, but unforseen problems popped up three days ago, and stop that,, only today while I was buffing,
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I also found out and started doing my friends brakes too, which will be practice for my brakes, and some how it goes around and around, around here,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Again, I am sorry for jumping around in subjects, ect, ( photobucket is giving me hell too. But I think I have got that under control, ) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A very good point of interest here is I read Megaminds latest post on rotors and callipers, yesterday, brilliant, I loved it, very informative, ( along with the other very good poster,) fits right in and exactly on time with my needs and concerns to do my friends and my brakes, I drove on my brakes for 2 years, and I was happy with them, and expect them to be in good condition, all I am going to do is clean and paint mine, my friend has a new front and back rotor / calliper set for his, standard , and we are using my favourite surface rust methods, with some paint on his too. All under control and will clean and paint all standard nos parts, , [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I will also be applying Nu-finish to see if the polymer coating will peel off the heat proof black or silver and red paint, ??. if the polymer coating does not burn off the brakes, I am going to try and cook eggs on the polymer Nu-finish surface, just to satisfy my morbid curiosity to how far I can push Nu-finish, I actually think I can cook eggs and get a none stick factor that is observable, when the eggs burn and cool. Because from my experience shown in the Caldina References and pictures, and my word that I am speaking my experience, that is Nu-finish has a none stick factor, and the bad news is during my latest observation, I have found my first fault, for which I am waiting for a chance to further make observations, and pictures, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Please note pictures in posts 171 and 172. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Those picture shows the mirror reflection surface of layers of nu-finish applied 2007, and again applied in 2009, and again in close to 2014,after 3 -4 years no cover, no wash, left in the hot sun, as shown in the pictures, the original 16 year old base coat colour factory white is and can be keep near perfectly original, Please keep following the Caldina buff and clean, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I have read a few people’s opinions that said nu-finish does not work, but I know from 20 experience there are a quite few ways to apply it wrongly, so I have been posting pictures thinking all the time of that old saying, post pictures or it did not happen, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The bit on Mercury started as a observation to see or if Mercury in a most volatile state would affect or eat the surface of the polymer clear coat I use, ( nu-finish, )[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]And we have been having fun and learning heaps from each other, just a lively friendly inspirational debate, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I also posted the info Amalgam vapour info because I feel it is time to focus on removing amalgam tooth fillings because it will and does alter the healthy life that anyone should have, in some of so many ways that toxic heavy metals can, I urge anyone to focus on educating themselves first, then removing their kids amalgam fillings, and then themselves and loved ones, not cheap, not easy, but can be done with patience and planning, worth the healthier rewards in the long run, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I am intending to do various observations, but little problems pop up, wrong UV lamp, not enough acids, but new ideas pop up, new corrosives to test, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot],JCH and a few of the boys have been fooling around, all in fun of learning, all in fun in finding the facts, , [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]All these topics are all “fuzzy and dunlop approved”, as you can read he says,[/FONT]
“Im excited to find out what the next topic of this thread will be”.


So, considering the numbers of viewers, and the fuzzydunlop “meow” of approval, I think we are doing the best we can, :$


But please accept my personal invitation to join in and help me get my methods understood, I agree “snakery” could be said , but prefer old dog texspirence, and good quality products that I did not see being used here, so I am on a mission to share,


Back asap, :biggrin:

 

[ino uno soweno]

These are the unfinished Mags, still have to finish the backs of the wheels,



And a few pictures of the finish buff one coat of nu-finish,





Gotta go, back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Ok, some pictures of the statesman under buff, and points of interest,



This side of the roof is quickly buffed clean,




Above picture shows the dark spots, I could not scratch out with my nail, the stains had soaked into the oxidized layer, please note this base colour white, no clear coat, and I note it for have only a thin oxidizing layer, ‘
( Whereas the following ford falcon pictures will show metallic with factory thin clear coat, will show deeper oxidization due to having a clear coat. And atleast needing some sanding,)


My point is the oxidization on the base coat white just buffed off easy, no real need to think about sanding in most base these colour coats,


Next picture shows the boot has a thin oxidizing layer, also buffed off quick and easy,






Next picture shows stone chips on the rear vision mirror, I left it just buffed , also small stone chips over the car, will repair them asap, tomorrow. and do the brakes, by that I mean we have a selection of 6 rotors and 4 calliper sets, all have surface rust, so we are thinking about painting everything wheels included, and waiting to find someone with good knees to fit the brakes,




Next picture shows the roof and boot , and back and side windows are buffed super clean, head lights, taillights, a lot of the black rubber, rear vision mirrors,




Please note, there is bits buffing and nu-finish white powder smears still on the black plastic all over the car, , I usually and have not yet used dishwashing liquid in warm water to remove over spray from the buffing and nu-finish. I usually use a microfiber cloth to wash off the powder and clean the rubber after opening each door ,then use a leather shammy to wipe clean, boot and bonnet, then apply nu-finish inside the door wells , all painted surfaces up to the trim, around the boot well, and under the edges of the bonnet, a long plastic hair brush is handy to,
Point of my interest here is that the car will most probably be parked back under the tree in the futures, as it has been for 3 days, so the observation has begin, keep you updated on that.


Back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Sorry lost internet connection 1 or maybe 2 days ago, not quite sure what’s wrong, ? but I am sure if I throw money at it, it will work soon. And that worked,
Here we go.

After the cloak of invincibility has been applied and quickly and easily hand buffed off, (lol) nu-finish.
1272


1273




Reveals the statesman is looking clean and shinny,( Despite poor light,) headlights are a lot brighter after a buff and removal of the 15 year old frosted head light covers, front windscreen is as clean as, and the owner is pretty much over whelmed, Merry x-mass,


Rear of the car shows replaced left taillight ( need to buff ) nice and clean shinny white paint despite poor light, please note the crystal clear rear glass screen , one coat of nu-finish clear coat,


1275 rear,



Please note the clarity of the rear pillar glass reflection,
1278 rear window,



Please note the crystal clear definition of what can be seen of the TV aerial, the clouds and blue sky.
1279





rear and along side windows, the reflection only get better moving down the side window glass,
Please note, right hand front and rear door glass is buffed, but with no nu-finish clear coat applied,
Also please note, the rear window glass, and pillar glass, as well as the small fixed quarter glass have 1 coat of nu-finish clear coat,


Can you see the difference between the coated and just buffed clean glass,? please note the clarity of the TV aerial again, black line definition is perfect between the sky and house roof, very fine and de-fined straight black line,


Also please take into consideration; the tint reduces as the glasses gets closer to the front door of the car, as manufacture specs.


So, if you think I am crazy for putting nu-finish on glass as shown is a little crazy, please , buy a bottle of nu-finish and apply to half a mirror, on your car, or in the house and live with it for a while, apply again in 30 days, use any other clean on half of the mirror, and if you can write down when applied,


Point of my in-experience, I am not silly enough to apply nu-finish and then use wipers or side weather strips on side or rear doors, with still soft nu-finish, so I do not know if a wiper will leave marks on fresh nu-finish, however on my cars like the Caldina, I can leave the rear door windows closed for 3 months or longer, to allow the nu-finish max time to cure hard, as well as check the weather strips rubber is soft, and free of gravel, and clean, my line of thought and experience is nu-finish surface is harder than good new soft wiper rubber,


I also apply nu-finish on the front screen outside the radius of the wiper,



I have observed the water droplets bead quickly and are blown off, full stop. Blown off.



Instructions to my friend is to wait a week for the car to get dirty, which it already is back under that tree, to clean the car he should just use bucket of soapy water and leather shammy on the hole car, 6mins or less, it will soon be 7 days, so a wash is required, due to the tree stains on the hole car,


Best part above buffing car glass is applying nu-finish, and quickly and I really do mean quickly, the machine and compound rips everything of the glass, the glass is clean, then I wipe the buffing dust off roughly, and apply nu-finish in a small circular rotations, really very easy, wait 10-15 mins, then quickly buff the nu-finish dust off, please note at “that point” you feel with the cloth and your finger tips that nu-finish is the smoothest surface you may have felt,


Note to self, create smoothness observations factors on various metals, plastics, ceramics, compare with nu-finish.???, food for thought,



back asap.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Instructions to my friend is to wait a week for the car to get dirty, which it already is back under that tree, to clean the car he should just use bucket of soapy water and leather shammy on the hole car, 6mins or less, it will soon be 7 days, so a wash is required, due to the tree stains on the hole car,


Best part above buffing car glass is applying nu-finish, and quickly and I really do mean quickly, the machine and compound rips everything of the glass, the glass is clean, then I wipe the buffing dust off roughly, and apply nu-finish in a small circular rotations, really very easy, wait 10-15 mins, then quickly buff the nu-finish dust off, please note at “that point” you feel with the cloth and your finger tips that nu-finish is the smoothest surface you may have felt,


Note to self, create smoothness observations factors on various metals, plastics, ceramics, compare with nu-finish.???, food for thought,


And the owner has decided on what colour to paint on the rear or inside back of the wheels, I just do as I am told, and hand painted the white on the back of the wheel with enamel, and will apply 2 coats of nu-finish over the whole wheel again,
1304



1303



Statesman brakes are well surface rusted, might need the big wire brush, ??.

 

[ino uno soweno]

Wagon Buff cam.



This picture shows a few pretty deep bird dropping burns, and overall light oxidization,
1245



Next picture shows small electric vibrating orbital sander, ( I prefer a soft edge padding on an vib orb sander, and a soft foam bumper on the buffing dics, ( picture coming,) p600 to sand out the deeper bird dropping burns and generally scratch the whole bonnet surface lightly, then p1500, p2000,
1247


1248



I buffed it and could see it needed to be re-sanded with a new sheet of p2000, and buffed again, red arrows show dull reflection, Green arrows show foam pad has a about 2" foam bumper around the pad, which i suggest is a very good idea for any new to buffing DIY guys,
1259, 23-12-13



Everything is a lot clearer, headlights clear,


The clear coat of invincibility is applied, front.
1292



(please note), front bumper is still un-buffed and no nu-finish, I am hoping to remove the bumper and repair the damaged patch, I thought I would remove it, and repair/weld it, ( as previously shown ) without a full respray, just a little touch up paint, new guys please note, that damage was caused of a tow bar, towbar puncher in the plastic, this type of damage can often be welded from behind, pretty easy, and a good demonstration of “ plastic Memory “;
1292





Everything except the windscreen and side windows, and soft black plastic /rubber,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Oops, sorry, that last picture showing a clean rear of the wagon should have come after this one,


Nu-finish,’’’1290



I found out the rear wiper motor is broken, and might take more than 30 days to fix, so I applied nu-finish to the back window,

Front view and Quick buff over and off the nu-finish has a nice shine and reflection coming up, please note dry white powder patch down the centre of the roof,
1293




Front bumper is neither buffed or nu-finish, needs to be repaired,
1294




Reflection shows satellite dish, blue sky, not too bad.
1295




Rear window glass shows excellent reflection of TVaerial, and sky,
1296’





Side fixed windows with nu-finish also keep going off,
1298




Please note, the buffing and nu-finish powder laying around, the roof reflection and shine is excellent, and very clear, the roof did not require any sanding like the bonnet, and please note, it is all ways worthwhile to remove roof racks so the buff can be used evenly over the whole roof, but bad news is the car belonged to family with bicycles, miles of bike scratches, and plenty of touch ups to do, the whole buff was constantly stopped to remove pine needle gum droplets,


I could get a slightly better result on the wagon if I dry sanded the upper section of the car above wheel arches with dryp2000 vib-orbital sander, and buffed again, we shall see,


That would mean removing the nu-finish layer, and slightly disturb the still slightly oxidized clear coat colour surface again, and cost about $20 in materials,


Again, while buffing, do not over do it, and my method is only sand and buff a thin layer at a time,


Also I keep forgetting to mention I thin or water down the compound to pretty wet, also I use about 3 refill bottles of water in the spray bottle per car, to wet compound that dries quickly in the sun, as well as keeping the heat in the general area down while buffing,


Tomorrow we finish painting the wheels and brakes, and touch ups on Statesman and wagon, I hope, and next day the Caldina gets a start on the brakes, that is the plan,


Back asap,

 

[McLovin]

Having glossed over this thread, this scene came to mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlPw6MKvvIc

 

[Bartman39]

Ok ino,uno,soweno. I am tired of the BS involved with this sort of posting... It is time to quit the tons of crap in this post and quit posting so that others do not understand or even care just what the heck is going on...?

I am going to tell you to quit and if for any reason it keeps on then you will be removed from ATG period...

AT Moderator
Bartman39