Post your longest clutch miles

[imagoon]

Sadly only 65k miles. Bought @ 60k and clutch was toast @ 90k. While I am pretty sure it wasn't my fault it was that worn... The flywheel was blue like someone was a pedal rider which I don't do. I ran that clutch to about 155k miles when I finally got tired of towing the thing home. Mazda had a ton of those stupid formed hoses on the engine which none of the dealers or local parts stores wanted to carry anymore. (Mazda MX-6 GT)

Mazdaspeed6 @ 36k miles and still going strong. They replaced the clutch @ 12k due to a TSB. When I looked at it then it looked like normal wear, no bluing etc.

 

[jagec]

150k on my MR2. Clutch wasn't actually worn out at that point, but one of the rubber springs in the clutch disc somehow came out and got jammed between the disc and the flywheel, so that it remained constantly engaged. Needless to say, I replaced it. Total nightmare of a clutch-job, that one. I had to pull the whole engine out.

 

[bruceb]

Way back in May of 1985 I bought a brand new RX-7GSL/Se 13B motor, 5 speed. The OE clutch was still in it and working fine at 120K miles, when it was stolen in NYC. It might have had another 20K left in it, as a lot of the miles were on the highwyay from NJ to NYC with not too much stop and go.

 

[spidey07]

To all, it's not a brag thread. More to dispel the myth that 100K on a clutch is some unusual thing. It was in response to another poster looking at a car with 120k miles with a glazed flywheel/clutch.

It's a wearable item, for sure. But IMHO it's really hard to wear out a clutch before 100K miles. That takes effort.

 

[Kadarin]

My old '83 Mustang from back in the day (way back lol) I had bought with 46K miles on the odometer, and I pulled the clutch out at about 140K. The springs were about ready to fall out of the thing, but it wasn't slipping.

 

[jaydee]

249,762 miles on a '95 Saturn SL before the original engine went (clutch was more than fine). I wanted 250,000 miles so bad...

 

[scott916]

188k on my 2000 Accord, doesn't slip at all.

 

[Demon-Xanth]

51k and going.

 

[vi edit]

Had 220k on an old '85 Ranger with the original clutch. Sold it off and who knows how much longer it went.

 

[bekyunhui]

I have a 2009 Chevy cobalt and I’m still going strong with the original clutch at 272,000 miles!!!
Rachel

 

[Hans Gruber]

2002 Honda Civic 120,000+ miles on the original clutch. Still going though I do not own the car any longer.

 

[NutBucket]

Currently 128k on the WRX. High mileage can be misleading obviously since highway miles are zero wear

I had a friend with over 250k on his 4Runner but he and his wife did lots of road trips for camping, hiking, etc.

 

[HarryLui]

256k on a Turbo Volvo S70, worn down to the rivets.

 

[bigi]

1987 Honda Accord - Purchased @ 127K with no repairs done. Sold @ 280,000 with OEM clutch to very happy buyer.

2002 Toyota Camry Stick Shift, yes, yes, Sold at 200K with OEM clutch.
2005 Mazda Protege, Stick Shift, sold @120K with OEM clutch.

 

[Bardock]

my subaru oem clutch lasted 150k

 

[esquared]

I had a 1997 Mazda B4000 with 275K before I replaced the clutch.

 

[eng2d2]

Sold 240 with 220ikmiles ) and the buyer did engine swap and told me clutch was still very good. The clutch was the original clutch, Mostly city miles. It was a beater and purchased brand new

 

[Lan1995]

I'm 3 years too late but I have 470,000kms on a 2000 Jetta TDI. Factory engine and clutch. The car just keeps going! Sometimes it doesn't want to go into 1st but it's pretty rare. And zero slippage.

 

[Ronstang]

Not sure what this thread has to do with anything other than a bragging thread. Different driving conditions will wear a clutch out faster than others.

Not really a bragging thread and your second statement here is actually false. Driving conditions should have very little bearing on the clutch life. Most of my miles driven on clutch cars have been city also. It comes down to driving style.

There was a time in the old days that clutches were so jerky with uneven pressure plates and clunky mechanical clutch linkages that would wear and engage unpredictably that "slipping" the clutch was the norm. But with modern diaphragm clutches with cable or hydraulic mechanisms there is simply no reason to slip the clutch ever under normal driving conditions and the result is clutches that can last after the car has fallen apart around them.

Simply knowing the pressure point of the clutch and actually engaging the clutch and adding power at the same moment the clutch has been released results in a smooth drive and almost no wear on the clutch.

I have taught a lot of younger people to drive manual transmissions in both cars and on motorcycles and I always start off by having them get the car rolling and driving around a parking lot in 1st gear using only the clutch....I tell them to not use the gas pedal at all. This way they learn what the pressure point is and that you not only don't need to use the gas pedal to get moving you definitely don't need to slip the clutch at all...ever. Once they learn this simply concept they all go on to become very good manual transmission drivers who don't fear sitting in traffic since they aren't going to stall the car or wear out the clutch.

Many people who were taught to drive manual by older people have been taught wrong so it is not really their fault....but that is pretty moot now since it's almost impossible to find a new car with a clutch and many people under 40 have never driven one.

 

[Hans Gruber]

Not really a bragging thread and your second statement here is actually false. Driving conditions should have very little bearing on the clutch life. Most of my miles driven on clutch cars have been city also. It comes down to driving style.

There was a time in the old days that clutches were so jerky with uneven pressure plates and clunky mechanical clutch linkages that would wear and engage unpredictably that "slipping" the clutch was the norm. But with modern diaphragm clutches with cable or hydraulic mechanisms there is simply no reason to slip the clutch ever under normal driving conditions and the result is clutches that can last after the car has fallen apart around them.

Simply knowing the pressure point of the clutch and actually engaging the clutch and adding power at the same moment the clutch has been released results in a smooth drive and almost no wear on the clutch.

I have taught a lot of younger people to drive manual transmissions in both cars and on motorcycles and I always start off by having them get the car rolling and driving around a parking lot in 1st gear using only the clutch....I tell them to not use the gas pedal at all. This way they learn what the pressure point is and that you not only don't need to use the gas pedal to get moving you definitely don't need to slip the clutch at all...ever. Once they learn this simply concept they all go on to become very good manual transmission drivers who don't fear sitting in traffic since they aren't going to stall the car or wear out the clutch.

Many people who were taught to drive manual by older people have been taught wrong so it is not really their fault....but that is pretty moot now since it's almost impossible to find a new car with a clutch and many people under 40 have never driven one.

I learned to drive at 15 on a 1967 Mustang without power steering and power brakes. My dad called it a death trap. Clutches on newer cars late 90's or newer are much better than in the past. They have self adjusting clutches and they should last the life of the car. My cars were always Honda's and they were all manual transmission. VTEC engines where the power really starts 4000rpm+. They should be driven accordingly.

I wanted a Honda S2000. But the used car prices on those is too high. I wanted to rip through the gears and run it up to 8000rpm.

 

[BoomerD]

I had a 96 Dakota with a 5 speed manual. When I sold it in 2006, it had 222,000+ miles on the original clutch. No idea how much longer it lasted.