Prolimatech Megahalems

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
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Yesterday's Benchmark Reviews cooler roundup should certainly increase interest in the Prolimatech Megahalems; it lead the field.

Here's the Benchmark Reviews cooler roundup:

Best CPU Cooler Performance LGA1366 - Q1 2009

Here's the Prolimatech web site:

prolimatech.com

Here are the two existing threads here which mention the Megahalems:

TRUE Black 120
A big, VERY quiet 775 cooler for a Q6600

I've written Prolimatech to ask about availability. Their response, today:

Thank you for your email.
We are near completion in setting up a distributing post in California.
Stock has arrived as we speak.

The mentioned US resellers should have them in about a week.

I'm now waiting on their advice to lap or not, with processors that are already lapped, or not.
 

imported_Scoop

Senior member
Dec 10, 2007
773
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SPCR reviewed it about a month ago. Prolimatech really needs to step up with the availability. Would be a shame if they didn't.
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
Prolimatech also responded to my "lapping?" query:

We do not encourage any type of lapping; on CPU or heatsink base.
Our heatsink base is designed to the pin point of how the base is to be flat and/or curved where it's needed to be. We have programed our machines to machine the surface in a very calculated way.

Any after-manufacturing lapping done to the base will alter the design and hence its warranty. It is never predictable of how lapping will turn out.

It may or may not work well with Thermalright's heatsink base as it is a matter of hit or miss. But with Prolimatech's, definitely no lapping.

Case in point
Against our advise...
holy mother of air HS!!
This fellow from Romania went ahead and lapped his Megahalems base.
And the numbers validate what we do not condone.
 

chizow

Diamond Member
Jun 26, 2001
9,537
2
0
Ya this heatsink has been winning pretty much every Cooler round-up recently, however, I think its due to the vastly superior mounting mechanism that it uses. From what I've seen, its by far the best mounting mechanism designed as it provides bolt-through pressure along with easy accessibility and removability without requiring access to the back of the board once installed.

If they sell the mounting bracket alone, I'd be interested in using it with other top heat sinks. I doubt there'd be much difference between the Prolimatech and the TRUE with the same mounting system. The TRUE's stock mounting system is garbage imo, simply because the stock screws bottom-out into the back plate and don't provide enough pressure, allowing the TRUE to slide around easily.
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
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Benchmark Reviews just ran a separate review of the Prolimatech Megahalems:

Prolimatech Megahalems CPU Cooler

They show it pulling away from the field, different from the Xbit review. Could be variations in base surfaces, in TIM application, who knows.

Note that they don't test the Thermalright IFX-14, which doesn't fit in every case (but would fit mine).

Meanwhile, the retail Megahalems includes only hooks for one fan despite all the reviews showing it romping with two fans. They include 775 and 1366 backplates, clearly a greater expense than a few pieces of wire. They justified this in an email to me, the Megahalems does well with one fan and it is standard in the industry to offer clips for a second fan separately.

The following is an adequate solution I devised for my TRUE, whose fins are angled, but might work well with the Megahalems, which has flat fins:
<a target=_blank class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/7123/pushpulltruedw8.jpg">
Push pull TRUE using "through" zip ties (cable ties)</a>

Once I try this with the Megahalems, I may prefer it to the wire fan holders.

For the TRUE, the fan clips came with silicon strips to dampen vibrations. Using this cable tie approach, one might want to buy a couple of silicon fan gaskets, for similar dampening.

I'm still interested in seeing other head-to-head compares, overclocking results Megahalems against the the Thermalright IFX-14.

Like buying cases, price is very important for some people. I'm far more concerned about the last couple of degrees of cooling than about the price of any air cooler, which is less money than any decent water cooling setup.

Edit: Prolimatech sent me this followup email:

We'll try to get those fan clips to FrozenCPU next week.

Cable tie would work for now but mind the tail so that it doesn't interfere
with the fan blades.
 

AmberClad

Diamond Member
Jul 23, 2005
4,914
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0
Originally posted by: Syzygies
Once I try this, I may prefer it to the wire fan holders.
I use the plastic cable tie method on my S1283 (which I broke the rubber fan mounts on), and on my AC S1 (which doesn't have fan clips period), and it works well.
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
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0
FrozenCPU is shipping today!

Just got off the phone with them, sneaking a couple of fan gaskets into the order to avoid separate shipping. I'll go the cable tie route, they don't have exra fan clips yet.
 

chizow

Diamond Member
Jun 26, 2001
9,537
2
0
Originally posted by: Das Capitolin
I'm a bit biased since I wrong the article for Benchmark Reviews, but the Prolimatech Megahalems has provided the best mounting system I am yet to see on any CPU cooler.
Yep I completely agree, although I'm surprised you didn't include any pics of the mounting mechanism in action in your review.

I saw detailed pics of the mounting mechanism at PCGH, but it clearly shows how much better it is than push-pin and even traditional bolt through set-ups. Its actually very similar to some of the old bracket mounting systems and even some recent bracket + clip systems, but it also gives you bolt through tension with the cross bar mounted into the bracket framework.

The other thing I noticed about this cooler I haven't yet seen mentioned......is how similar either half of the cooler's top resembles the Autobot symbol. Accident? Coincidence? I think not!
 

daw123

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2008
2,593
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0
Originally posted by: chizow
Originally posted by: Das Capitolin
I'm a bit biased since I wrong the article for Benchmark Reviews, but the Prolimatech Megahalems has provided the best mounting system I am yet to see on any CPU cooler.
Yep I completely agree, although I'm surprised you didn't include any pics of the mounting mechanism in action in your review.

I saw detailed pics of the mounting mechanism at PCGH, but it clearly shows how much better it is than push-pin and even traditional bolt through set-ups. Its actually very similar to some of the old bracket mounting systems and even some recent bracket + clip systems, but it also gives you bolt through tension with the cross bar mounted into the bracket framework.

The other thing I noticed about this cooler I haven't yet seen mentioned......is how similar either half of the cooler's top resembles the Autobot symbol. Accident? Coincidence? I think not!

You're right - very observant.

And I agree with you both regarding the mounting system. I hope other HSF manufacturers will see the light and starting including or at least selling similar systems (excluding of course the Thermalright and Sidewinder bolt-thru kits).
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
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0
Out of curiosity, I asked Prolimatech about their thermal compound, included with the Megahalems. Note that most reviews use the same thermal compound and the same fans, out of fairness between coolers, so this thermal compound hasn't come under scrutiny.

Here is their view:

The thermal compound that is included with the Megahalems is actually better
than your average thermal grease. In fact it is better than the popular AS5.

More info will be posted on our website in near future.
I invariably toss the cables that come with stereo gear, but perhaps I'll try this stuff...
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
My Megahalems is in place:

Megahalems, installed with two fans using cable ties

The mounting system is best I've ever seen. However, the sag as the weight bent my motherboard was disconcerting. My last motherboard died for reasons unknown, it could have been similar strain from my TRUE.

Made me think, why can't the backplates have a long tail for leverage, to prevent this? Or why can't we drill extra standoffs for the cooler? In any case, I rigged a harness with #22 solid insulated wire and a cable tie, far easier than either of those ideas (the cable tie rachets nicely to just the right amount of lift) and now I'm happy.

This is in a Mountain Mods case. I used 1.5" 6-32 machine screws and nuts to secure my fans (8-40 also works, after trying this one cannot go back), and this gave a nice top anchor for the cooler harness.

Unlike the TRUE, the Megahalems doesn't come with any anti-vibration silicon strips to go between the cooler and the fan(s). Perhaps not necessary, but I have two kinds of fan silencers on hand. The FrozenCPU silencers don't extend beyond the width of the fan, so they just fit into place, as shown above:

FrozenCPU fan silencer

The Prolimatech thermal compound was a pleasure to use. I went with the xbit theory, thinnest possible film to even out surface without creating thickness. My Q6600 is lapped, so I was just "wetting" the surface; the stuff goes on arbitrarily thin.

I'm about to travel for a bit, so performance testing will have to wait.

(Yes, I know my fans are backwards, even the power supply. I don't use AC in the summer, and my office gets hot, so I'm exhausting all air out the top through a dryer hose, out a window. The Prolimatech is so I can still manage a mild overclock with 5V fans and this odd fan arrangement.)
 

Tullphan

Diamond Member
Jul 27, 2001
3,507
5
81
For those of you that have purchased the Megahalem, how was the base? Did it need lapped? How's the performance?
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
I won't be back to that machine for another week, my further testing will have to wait. I was stunned how well I was doing with a pair of Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F fans at 5 volts. This is a noise/performance sweet spot for those fans, and the Megahalems is said to do well with low cfm fans. My goal is to see what overclock I can manage within severe noise and cfm constraints, not to trounce lesser water-cooling setups with a rig that sounds like a leaf-blower.

My Megahalems had a smooth, nearly mirror, surface; it was a pleasure applying TIM. I did not determine the extent to which it was flat -vs- convex.

Prolimatech did not explain their design, in their "don't lap the cooler" response that I quote earlier in this thread , but they imply that even competent lapping could worsen performance. I relapped my Q6600 G0 (one core had been hotter, and still is) but left the Megahalems alone.

There are two independent benefits to lapping a cpu: A smoother, more "ideal" surface increases the performance of correctly applied TIM, and mates better with an "ideal" cooler base. However, it is simplistic to assume that "ideal" means flat. The complete picture is overwhelmingly beyond our understanding, so it is human nature to clamp down on part of the picture, like the notion that flat is so obviously "ideal", how could anyone contest that?

Never forget that we don't control what goes on underneath the cpu shell. That bit of thermal interface is a pirate zone of uncontrolled chaos, we'll never know or understand the extent to which what we don't see there determines the potential of a given chip. Recall that with some old processor designs, people actually removed the processor shell to take control of this issue.

And the cpu shell flexes ever so slightly, creating the possibility of improving the distribution of Intel's TIM between the cpu shell and the cpu itself. After one has obsessed on every other possibility (as we do, and I expect the Prolimatech engineers have done) one develops the urge to want to at least try flexing the CPU shell, with a slightly convex cooler base.

With a poorly-machined cooler base, the bottleneck may be the interface between the cooler base and cpu shell, in which case lapping both flat may show experimental improvements. With a well-machined cooler base that successfully flexes the cpu shell, lapping flat will defeat one tool in the cooler's arsenal, with perhaps no compensating gain.

I don't have direct experience with water cooling, but I believe that some cpu waterblocks are designed to be modded with variable spacers, to allow users to experiment with exactly this mechanism. I also suspect that the water crowd is in a higher reading group than the air crowd. This all is enough for me to consider "flat" to be a tribal superstition, that may or may not help, case by case, for complicated reasons.

Can anyone determine if the Megahalems in fact has a slightly convex base?
 

imported_Jid

Member
Jan 3, 2009
111
0
71
Originally posted by: Syzygies
My Megahalems is in place:

Megahalems, installed with two fans using cable ties

The mounting system is best I've ever seen. However, the sag as the weight bent my motherboard was disconcerting. My last motherboard died for reasons unknown, it could have been similar strain from my TRUE.

Made me think, why can't the backplates have a long tail for leverage, to prevent this? Or why can't we drill extra standoffs for the cooler? In any case, I rigged a harness with #22 solid insulated wire and a cable tie, far easier than either of those ideas (the cable tie rachets nicely to just the right amount of lift) and now I'm happy.

This is in a Mountain Mods case. I used 1.5" 6-32 machine screws and nuts to secure my fans (8-40 also works, after trying this one cannot go back), and this gave a nice top anchor for the cooler harness.

Unlike the TRUE, the Megahalems doesn't come with any anti-vibration silicon strips to go between the cooler and the fan(s). Perhaps not necessary, but I have two kinds of fan silencers on hand. The FrozenCPU silencers don't extend beyond the width of the fan, so they just fit into place, as shown above:

FrozenCPU fan silencer

The Prolimatech thermal compound was a pleasure to use. I went with the xbit theory, thinnest possible film to even out surface without creating thickness. My Q6600 is lapped, so I was just "wetting" the surface; the stuff goes on arbitrarily thin.

I'm about to travel for a bit, so performance testing will have to wait.

(Yes, I know my fans are backwards, even the power supply. I don't use AC in the summer, and my office gets hot, so I'm exhausting all air out the top through a dryer hose, out a window. The Prolimatech is so I can still manage a mild overclock with 5V fans and this odd fan arrangement.)

Not to be too much of a bother, but could you explain a bit how you attached the fans to the cooler to a newb? Reason I ask is because I want to get this cooler but I've never done this before and I'm a bit worried about the weight too, I was thinking I should put a harness but really I'd probably just muck it up if I did it myself. So, I want to copy you if you don't mind
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
Originally posted by: Jid
Not to be too much of a bother, but could you explain a bit how you attached the fans to the cooler to a newb? Reason I ask is because I want to get this cooler but I've never done this before and I'm a bit worried about the weight too, I was thinking I should put a harness but really I'd probably just muck it up if I did it myself. So, I want to copy you if you don't mind
As it happens, I just redid mine yesterday, to get rid of an odd noise. I was using silicon spacers, and when I pulled up on the harness one fan sounded a bit like it was beating on something. So I removed my motherboard tray and redid the fans without the silicon spacers. This got rid of the specific problem. The pair of fans do make an objectionable whine at 12V, but are effectively silent at 5V, at the cost of 5C higher core temps at full load. So my rig may not be for everyone. It's possible that different ways of attaching the fans will lead to different noise patterns, one has to play. My setup works for my needs.

You'll go crazy unless you install the fans before putting your motherboard in your case. You need room to get your hands around all sides, in which case what I describe is dead simple, much easier to figure out even as a complete newbie than to explain. Nevertheless, I'll humor you and attempt to explain.

One wants cable ties narrow enough to go through the fan screw holes, yet long enough to reach through both fans and the cooler. Some but not all cable ties fit this bill; mine are "All States" RT-508 cable ties which I picked up at Fry's. They're 8" long; bring a fan along and you'll know if your ties can fit through the fan holes.

Figure out in advance where you want the fan wiring to exit, with the cooler installed in your case. I'd recommend the back side of the top edge? Depends where fan power is coming from. Visualize the cooler in place, this is easy to get wrong. Face your fans correctly, logo blows out. A standard setup has all air moving front to back, so all logos face back, my case is very odd because all air moves in and up, so you can't just follow my picture.

120 mm fans fit perfectly into each side of the Megahalems. Position a fan on one side, and push cable ties through so they slide through the second-to-bottom slot, between fins 2 and 3 counting from the bottom. When they come out the other side, thread them through the bottom holes in the other fan. Attach the head from a second cable tie (you will use 8 in all) and slide loosely in place.

In other words, think of the first cable tie as a bolt, and the second cable tie as a nut.

Now repeat for the top fan holes, this time sliding through the very top slot, between fins 1 and 2 counting from the top. Attach more cable tie heads, tighten all heads in rotation. This is obvious to people who build physical objects, you want to tighten screws a little bit each then go around again, rather that wailing on one screw and wondering why the next screw seems to be stripping? Same deal here, tease all the cable tie heads tight. Trim with clippers, and you're done.

I chose cable ties and wire for my harness because wire doesn't stretch, and cable ties adjust nicely. However, knotting the wire is a bit of an art or the knot will slip a bit. I did better on my second round: I tied a square knot, then kept going six or so times. Two times can slide a bit on #22 solid wire, but six times isn't going anywhere.

My fans are all attached to my case with 1.5" bolts and nuts. This is much nicer than using fan screws, and offers a nice support for the top of my harness. Your case will be different, but something will work.

Good luck! The fun is figuring it out. Once you get the bug you'll regret that you have to buy $1000 in parts to get another fix. But there's always friends and family needing more machines...
 

imported_Jid

Member
Jan 3, 2009
111
0
71
Ok great, that's very descriptive. Reading through your post and looking at the picture I think I get what you did there. When I finally get everything together I'll have a go at putting things together similarly to your setup, but I feel pretty confident now that I can do it right.

Very thankfull,

cheers!
 

faxon

Platinum Member
May 23, 2008
2,109
1
81
by the way, alternatively to simply knotting the wire, you can also use epoxy or what i call "lighter solder". we sell it at frys as well. basically what it is is solder in a pasty tube form, which when put under the heat of a lighter melts and adheres itself to whatever surface you are soldering. given that you apply tension to the mechanism via cable ties you could do this, or any other form of "normal" soldering before applying tension to the rig, and it would be more secure than even the most slip free knot. just remember to put heat shrink tubing somewhere else on the wire before soldering it so you dont accidentally short something on it. i was actually planning on using this type of bracing mechanism on a friend's tuniq tower, since it's causing the board to bow visibly and i dont want it to become permanently damaged from the force it may cause. i will no doubt also rig something else similar up for my "lightweight" S-1283 as soon as my order of fans gets here from frozenCPU
 
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