Question about PSU.

Nickel020

Senior member
Jun 26, 2002
753
0
0
Peak load means that the PSU can, for a short time, deliver more power than it's rating.
 

ZUnit

Senior member
Oct 2, 2004
205
0
0
It means before it get hotter?
But what real deal of having it work on 620W for first 60 seconds when you turn your pc on?
They must be included this in spec just for marketing?
 

Subhuman25

Senior member
Aug 22, 2004
370
0
0
Dynamic vs. Nominal ratings ... just like speakers.And yes,they almost always use the dynamic ratings for advertisement.
In laymans terms:
Dynamic = what it's capable of - at the sacrifice of stability,temperature (with speakers you're talking SNR's,THD's etc.)
Nominal = what it can do while keeping tight tolerances to the specs. or what you can safely continously run at.
It's a pity that manufacturers advertise the dynamic ratings(because they sucker in the uninformed buyers) and not the nominal ratings.
I remember when I was younger how friends would run around bragging about how powerful their amps & speakers were etc.All they saw were those "dynamic" wattage numbers...the higher the better in their feeble minds.Those peak numbers came at a sacrifice of sound quality in most cases.Horrid SNR's,THD,Frequency response ranges etc.
It's the same for PSU's.That's why you see a lot of complaints from folks that have systems demanding tight tolerances and stable outputs and they're running it on some no-name PSU with flashy lights and shiny paint jobs with outrageous wattage claims.Quality,stability are far more important with these type components.And course lower temperatures are also always desirable.But there will always be silly boys striving for gimmicky flashy toys for the bragging rights.
In the end we know who really has the bragging rights

Sorry for the rant
 

gotensan01

Golden Member
Jul 6, 2004
1,446
0
0
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Dynamic vs. Nominal ratings ... just like speakers.And yes,they almost always use the dynamic ratings for advertisement.
In laymans terms:
Dynamic = what it's capable of - at the sacrifice of stability,temperature (with speakers you're talking SNR's,THD's etc.)
Nominal = what it can do while keeping tight tolerances to the specs. or what you can safely continously run at.
It's a pity that manufacturers advertise the dynamic ratings(because they sucker in the uninformed buyers) and not the nominal ratings.
I remember when I was younger how friends would run around bragging about how powerful their amps & speakers were etc.All they saw were those "dynamic" wattage numbers...the higher the better in their feeble minds.Those peak numbers came at a sacrifice of sound quality in most cases.Horrid SNR's,THD,Frequency response ranges etc.
It's the same for PSU's.That's why you see a lot of complaints from folks that have systems demanding tight tolerances and stable outputs and they're running it on some no-name PSU with flashy lights and shiny paint jobs with outrageous wattage claims.Quality,stability are far more important with these type components.And course lower temperatures are also always desirable.But there will always be silly boys striving for gimmicky flashy toys for the bragging rights.
In the end we know who really has the bragging rights

Sorry for the rant
I have an Enermax PSU and I believe that they advertise the nominal ratings. I don't know much about PSU's but I got the model that says 550Watts but I believe I read elsewhere (maybe on the PSU) that it can go somewhere around 630Watts? If you are interested, I can list a link to the PSU and whatnot.

EDIT: I just wanted to show that maybe there are some honest manufacturers out there...hopefully?
 

Subhuman25

Senior member
Aug 22, 2004
370
0
0
Originally posted by: gotensan01
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Dynamic vs. Nominal ratings ... just like speakers.And yes,they almost always use the dynamic ratings for advertisement.
In laymans terms:
Dynamic = what it's capable of - at the sacrifice of stability,temperature (with speakers you're talking SNR's,THD's etc.)
Nominal = what it can do while keeping tight tolerances to the specs. or what you can safely continously run at.
It's a pity that manufacturers advertise the dynamic ratings(because they sucker in the uninformed buyers) and not the nominal ratings.
I remember when I was younger how friends would run around bragging about how powerful their amps & speakers were etc.All they saw were those "dynamic" wattage numbers...the higher the better in their feeble minds.Those peak numbers came at a sacrifice of sound quality in most cases.Horrid SNR's,THD,Frequency response ranges etc.
It's the same for PSU's.That's why you see a lot of complaints from folks that have systems demanding tight tolerances and stable outputs and they're running it on some no-name PSU with flashy lights and shiny paint jobs with outrageous wattage claims.Quality,stability are far more important with these type components.And course lower temperatures are also always desirable.But there will always be silly boys striving for gimmicky flashy toys for the bragging rights.
In the end we know who really has the bragging rights

Sorry for the rant
I have an Enermax PSU and I believe that they advertise the nominal ratings. I don't know much about PSU's but I got the model that says 550Watts but I believe I read elsewhere (maybe on the PSU) that it can go somewhere around 630Watts? If you are interested, I can list a link to the PSU and whatnot.

EDIT: I just wanted to show that maybe there are some honest manufacturers out there...hopefully?

Enermax is a very good PSU brand,quality stuff! They have no need to advertise "cheesy" max specs to sell their product as I mentioned above IOW.Quality electronic components advertise their quality specs instead because an informed consumer looks at the proper specs when choosing/buying their equipment.
An informed buyer won't be sold on flashy/gimmicky products.Especially when those flashy&gimmicky qualities lead their selling point.
I recal a/some thread(s) that mentioned running high end systems (A64 platorms,6800GT/Ultra vidcards,various HD #'s etc.) on Antec 380W PSU's,the stock ones bundled with the Antec Sonata case.
That's a good example of a quality vs. overrated peak spec's issue.Only a 380W PSU and yet it manages to supply a high end system just fine,contrary to the beliefs that one must have a high wattage PSU.
Then you have the opposite side of the house with those flashy,gimmicky,outrageous wattage claims PSU's having problems supplying like systems.
The answer is quality.And that's why you'll see quality PSU's recommended by the knowledgeable computer users/sellers.Headroom is always good too,but not really neccessary.If it's a quality PSU and sufficient to run your system,then it's the ticket!If you have money to spend and want bragging rights or are thinking of adding to your current system it's also nice to have that headroom.
The PSU is a very very important component in a computer set-up,but unfortunately it's often overlooked as "just a power supply and any will do".And then you have those that fall for the gimmicky disco look because they think a computer components should be some type of art sculpture.That's all good and fine,there are some good quality PSU's that cater to those folks,but unfortunately they often choose the lesser flashy,gimmicky brands and then wonder why they are having problems with their computers or why their "disco lit" PSU's failed.
I hope nobody is taking my rant personally.It merely serves to inform those that need it and I hope I'm helping some people avoiding mistakes and saving some from headaches and heartaches not to mention money in the future.
On another note,I'm also seeing problems arising with a few video cards in the 6800 series.Seems those BFG & Leadtek cards with the fancy shmancy dual fan HSF's are predominantly occupying vid card problem threads.It's a bit soon to sum it all up(GeForce6 series is rather new),but it seems to me they fall in the same category of what I've been talking about here.I sure haven't seen many eVGA 6800GT problems.And it's about he cheapest 6800GT out there.No gimmicks,no flashy HSF.Just the raw meat.


 

ZUnit

Senior member
Oct 2, 2004
205
0
0
Wow Subhuman25 long post. Actully it not answers my question, but anyway thanks for replay.
I dont think OCZ is noname brand and this psu have many reviews (actually i did not read none of them yet, since i did not decided what wattage i need for my system and therefore its to early to pick psu), so i think if it was with "outrageous wattage" they notice it dont they? They also dont claim it gives 620W and its carefully written that its peak load during 60 secs is 620W, psu itself is 520W.
Also i dont see how having a led within cooler makes psu "gimmicky flashy toy".
In your logic everything with cool lighting and paint is plain crap?
I dont try to protect this psu because i dont know anything about it, just your coments look groundless.

Originally posted by: Subhuman25I recal a/some thread(s) that mentioned running high end systems (A64 platorms,6800GT/Ultra vidcards,various HD #'s etc.) on Antec 380W PSU's,the stock ones bundled with the Antec Sonata case.
That's a good example of a quality vs. overrated peak spec's issue.Only a 380W PSU and yet it manages to supply a high end system just fine,contrary to the beliefs that one must have a high wattage PSU.
Then you have the opposite side of the house with those flashy,gimmicky,outrageous wattage claims PSU's having problems supplying like systems.
Can u give any examples of that "flashy gimmicky outrageous" psu that can no support that kind system?

Btw i run my system, P4 2.7 GHz, ATI 9800 pro 256, 2 HDD, 5 coolers, CD-RW on stock psu with only 300W Codegen (with P3 marking on it, and i am not sure it can really give 300W) which have only 10A on +12V rail and it works just fine, except power drops over ATA specs when i pc is heavily loaded and i would not even notice that if dont use asus probe log function. You get my point? If it works - it not always mean it works how it should, and its not safe when voletage is dropping like this.
 

0roo0roo

No Lifer
Sep 21, 2002
64,795
84
91
silentpcreview.com has some info on it in its psu recommendations section. tomshardware and anandtech also have psu articles. read up!

if you want efficiency, seasonic super silent or tornado series is the way to go. 78-80% efficiency yes, more efficiency = less heat. the fan barely spins up. cheaper psus can be wasteful. and wattage ratings are a bit shady without specifying what temp it was tested at. generic psu's rate wattage at low temperatures they would never naturally run at

Power Supply Fundamentals & Recommended Units
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article97-page1.html
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article107-page1.html

 

carpenter

Platinum Member
May 31, 2003
2,880
0
0
I'm running a setup with an Antec 350w psu that a buddies wouldn't run with the 500w psu that came with his case. He bought an Antec 430 and problem was solved. end of story
 

ZUnit

Senior member
Oct 2, 2004
205
0
0
Sorry that i confused you. This topic is not about "which psu should i buy?", just wanted someone to answer 2 of my questions, but get answer only on half of second one.
So power drops to 520 from 620 in a minute because of heat?
 

pretzelb

Member
Oct 13, 2004
25
0
0
Originally posted by: ZUnit
Sorry that i confused you. This topic is not about "which psu should i buy?", just wanted someone to answer 2 of my questions, but get answer only on half of second one.
So power drops to 520 from 620 in a minute because of heat?

I thought someone answered this already. Power and heat aren't related in the way you mean. I don't think a psu is designed to power down when heat gets too high - they are more likely to shut off completely.

I'm no expert but I always thought that peak referred to what level the psu could spike up to where the "regular" load is what you can expect from usage. I think all systems peak on start up - when everything is being turned on. My guess is the company is saying that it can handle up to 620w at times like this but for regular use it can handle 520w.

As others have stated it's probably a marketing gimmic meant to turn on those who have too much testosterone and think more power rulez. I don't think you could fit enough items into a super large case to demand 620w of power - even with a 6800GT. Most items only require like 20w of power max if I remember right.

Also as others have stated the quality of the psu is WAY more important than the max power rating. That is what everyone is trying to get across to you.

As far as your first question goes, I don't know. Try the psu section at silentpcreview.com - they know more about psu's then anyone I've seen.
 

0roo0roo

No Lifer
Sep 21, 2002
64,795
84
91
Originally posted by: ZUnit
Sorry that i confused you. This topic is not about "which psu should i buy?", just wanted someone to answer 2 of my questions, but get answer only on half of second one.
So power drops to 520 from 620 in a minute because of heat?


if those two ratings are both at temperatures that do not exist normally, like in a fridge then they could be bogus.
 

0roo0roo

No Lifer
Sep 21, 2002
64,795
84
91
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article28-page2.html
POWER SHMOWER
or How PSU Power Ratings Mean Almost Nothing

A frustrating fact about PSUs is that there does not appear to be a stringent or regulated standard for reporting, advertising and labeling rated power. This is despite the existence of standards like ATX2.03 or Intel ATX12V.

There are well-established standards for measuring and rating HDD capacity, an engine's horsepower, or the heat generated by a furnace... but not one for how much power a PSU can deliver. There are so many cases of people with "450W" PSUs having power stability issues running a system that can't possoibly draw more than 150W. And "300W" units that keep running where the "450W" units are faltering.

It's not just about bad PSUs vs better ones. It's a dumb situation caused by uncontrolled marketing competition. Real regulation would bring PSUs out of snake oil territory and into a more sensible consumer-friendly terrain.

There are many ways PSU makers fudge to make their units seem more powerful.

1) Out and out lying. You add up the power on all the lines in many PSUs and they fall short of the rated power by 10, 20 30W or even more.

There are more sophisticated ways:

2) Limit the AC input voltage to a very narrow tolerance. The best PSUs are able to deliver their rated power given a decent range of AC input power, say 90~130V for a 120V unit. It's much more demanding to produce 300W w/90VAC input than with 120VAC, so what some PSU makers will detail in their tech specs (usually not in their consumer brochures) is to specify 115-120VAC for input power. A PSU specified this way will not deliver full power if the AC voltage sags, if there is a brown-out. Surely it causes instability more often than a PSU rated to deliver full power with 90-130VAC.

3) Specify a low operating temperature for rated output. This is quite common, but again not often seen in consumer brochures, but rather tech spec sheets provided usually only on demand by engineers or corp buyers. A typical PSU operating temp statement is somthing like this:

0ºC ~25ºC for full rating of load, decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70ºC

Examine what that says. Full power (let's say 400W) is available when the unit is at 0ºC ~25ºC. Hmmm. Think about this.

Have you ever felt air blown out of a PSU in a PC running absolutely full tilt (which it would have to do to get anywhere near 400W output) that felt cool to the fingers? 25ºC airflow would feel exactly that: Cool, given that normal body temperature is 37 °C.

So this PSU cannot deliver full rated power when its temperature goes over 25ºC. OK, what happens to the max power output capacity above that temp? It decreases gradually so that by the time the PSU temp reaches 70ºC, the PSU cannot deliver any power at all. So if you assume that this power drop as temp rises is linear, then max power capacity will drop by ~9W for every degree over 25ºC.

Now having examined as many PSUs as I have over the last 2~3 years, I have to say there's not a single PSU in ANY PC I have ever used or examined that would not measure at least 30~35ºC almost anywhere inside the PSU under almost any kind of load. And if/when it is pushed, 45ºC is nothing at all, especially for or near hot running components like voltage regulators.

So let's say 40ºC is a fairly typical temp inside a PSU. This 400W rated unit would actually be able to deliver a max of just 220W at that temp. Hmmm. Interesting, isn't it? At 50ºC, the available power would drop to just 130W. No wonder some PSUs have 3 fans each capable of 50 cfm!!

Here's a simple fact: Really high quality PSUs are actually rated for full power output at as high as 40ºC. The trick is get a hold of the spec sheets that tell such information so you can compare apples to apples. Or ask.


How Much Power is Enough?

Typical 300W models have replaced 230W and 250W models as baseline units since the introduction of the AMD Athlon. They feature a fan (or two) rated for 35~40 cubic feet per minute (CFM) airflow. Presumably, this level of airflow is required for adequate cooling at full power output to pass safety approvals under UL, CSA, CE and other regulations.

Our own experience shows idle AC power consumption of 60~90W, and about 110~130W at 100% CPU utilization in several fairly representative mid-line test systems. Given the typical 65~70% effiiciency of a PSU, the DC power delivered is 40~60W at idle and 80~90W maximum. In other words, the amount of power actually required by typical desktop systems is about 30% of the capacity of the typical 300W power supply. The highest DC power draw we have seen from any desktop PC is ~180W (System details: P4-3.2, 512MB RAM, dual SATA drives, ATI9800XT, Zalman 400 PSU). Although some headroom is always good to have, most of us are paying for power capacity that is never used. One of the nasty side effects is the fan noise of high airflow required to keep the PSU adequately cooled when delivering maximum power.

Why this state of affairs exists is a matter of marketing and technical obfuscation, probably more by accident than any massive conspiracy. With relatively low current requirements prior to the AMD Athlon processor, the aforementioned 230W and 250W were perfectly adequate for PC systems, even if the power supplies didn't deliver full rated performance. That changed with the Athlon and then the P4. PSU makers were quick to introduce higher rated models said to be required for the new power hungry processors. It was a good marketing opportunity. Rather than "Our 250W PSU is better than theirs," it is easier to sell the message "Our 300W PSU is better than their 250W PSU." Bigger is always better, isn't it? It also allowed higher prices to be charged.

A counterpoint is AMD's system builder's guide, which suggests higher numbers: up to ~180W DC for a typical system and ~250W DC for a high performance system, but these numbers are obtained by adding the maximum power rating for each component, then taking 20% off to account for real-world conditions. It is almost impossible for any application to demand 80% of maximum power draw from each component simultaneously. Intel's PSU recommendations are similar.

Suffice it to say that as manufacturers, both AMD and Intel are looking at worst-case secenarios. As custom builders, enthusiasts and system integrators can make choices based on real needs and applications.

Even so, Is Higher Power Better?

Without getting into technical details, the nature of a switching power supply is that it delivers as much power as is demanded by the components. This means that when installed in a PC whose components require 200W, a 400W PSU and a 250W PSU will each deliver 200W. Does this mean the 400W is coasting while the 250W is struggling? Not if they are both rated honestly and if they have the same efficiency. If one has lower efficiency than the other, then it will consume more AC to deliver the same power to the components, and in the process, generate more heat within itself. As long as there is adequate power, higher efficiency is the key to cooler, quieter PSU operation.

The main benefit of higher power PSUs is when the airflow in the PSU is deliberately set very low in order to minimize noise. This usually means the PSU components will run hotter. All other things being equal, a higher rated PSU will be a better choice in such an application because its parts are generally rated for higher current and heat than a lower rated model.

What are the Key Aspects to Good PSU Performance?

There is a great deal of fuzzy and unclear thinking about what constitutes a good power supply. The obsfucation caused by competitive marketing is certainly one cause of this confusion. Another is the proliferation of computer hardware web sites that publish so-called "reviews" of PSUs without the faintest notion of what should be examined or how.

1. Stable power delivery under load
2. High efficiency
3. Good cooling
4. Low noise operation
5. Long term reliability

The truth is that a computer power supply is a complex electronic device with a complex role that is little appreciated by most hardware reviewers. Most system integrators don't really appreciate it either, either. This is due partly to the assemble-and-sell nature of the PC industry, where manufacturers build components in accordance to an accepted standard specification for "universal" compatibility with other components. Such piecemeal component manufacturing does not nurture or reward system thinking, which has been much more the norm for Apple.
 

prometheusxls

Senior member
Apr 27, 2003
830
0
0
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Originally posted by: gotensan01
Originally posted by: Subhuman25
Dynamic vs. Nominal ratings ... just like speakers.And yes,they almost always use the dynamic ratings for advertisement.
In laymans terms:
Dynamic = what it's capable of - at the sacrifice of stability,temperature (with speakers you're talking SNR's,THD's etc.)
Nominal = what it can do while keeping tight tolerances to the specs. or what you can safely continously run at.
It's a pity that manufacturers advertise the dynamic ratings(because they sucker in the uninformed buyers) and not the nominal ratings.
I remember when I was younger how friends would run around bragging about how powerful their amps & speakers were etc.All they saw were those "dynamic" wattage numbers...the higher the better in their feeble minds.Those peak numbers came at a sacrifice of sound quality in most cases.Horrid SNR's,THD,Frequency response ranges etc.
It's the same for PSU's.That's why you see a lot of complaints from folks that have systems demanding tight tolerances and stable outputs and they're running it on some no-name PSU with flashy lights and shiny paint jobs with outrageous wattage claims.Quality,stability are far more important with these type components.And course lower temperatures are also always desirable.But there will always be silly boys striving for gimmicky flashy toys for the bragging rights.
In the end we know who really has the bragging rights

Sorry for the rant
I have an Enermax PSU and I believe that they advertise the nominal ratings. I don't know much about PSU's but I got the model that says 550Watts but I believe I read elsewhere (maybe on the PSU) that it can go somewhere around 630Watts? If you are interested, I can list a link to the PSU and whatnot.

EDIT: I just wanted to show that maybe there are some honest manufacturers out there...hopefully?

Enermax is a very good PSU brand,quality stuff! They have no need to advertise "cheesy" max specs to sell their product as I mentioned above IOW.Quality electronic components advertise their quality specs instead because an informed consumer looks at the proper specs when choosing/buying their equipment.
An informed buyer won't be sold on flashy/gimmicky products.Especially when those flashy&gimmicky qualities lead their selling point.
I recal a/some thread(s) that mentioned running high end systems (A64 platorms,6800GT/Ultra vidcards,various HD #'s etc.) on Antec 380W PSU's,the stock ones bundled with the Antec Sonata case.
That's a good example of a quality vs. overrated peak spec's issue.Only a 380W PSU and yet it manages to supply a high end system just fine,contrary to the beliefs that one must have a high wattage PSU.
Then you have the opposite side of the house with those flashy,gimmicky,outrageous wattage claims PSU's having problems supplying like systems.
The answer is quality.And that's why you'll see quality PSU's recommended by the knowledgeable computer users/sellers.Headroom is always good too,but not really neccessary.If it's a quality PSU and sufficient to run your system,then it's the ticket!If you have money to spend and want bragging rights or are thinking of adding to your current system it's also nice to have that headroom.
The PSU is a very very important component in a computer set-up,but unfortunately it's often overlooked as "just a power supply and any will do".And then you have those that fall for the gimmicky disco look because they think a computer components should be some type of art sculpture.That's all good and fine,there are some good quality PSU's that cater to those folks,but unfortunately they often choose the lesser flashy,gimmicky brands and then wonder why they are having problems with their computers or why their "disco lit" PSU's failed.
I hope nobody is taking my rant personally.It merely serves to inform those that need it and I hope I'm helping some people avoiding mistakes and saving some from headaches and heartaches not to mention money in the future.
On another note,I'm also seeing problems arising with a few video cards in the 6800 series.Seems those BFG & Leadtek cards with the fancy shmancy dual fan HSF's are predominantly occupying vid card problem threads.It's a bit soon to sum it all up(GeForce6 series is rather new),but it seems to me they fall in the same category of what I've been talking about here.I sure haven't seen many eVGA 6800GT problems.And it's about he cheapest 6800GT out there.No gimmicks,no flashy HSF.Just the raw meat.

My take on the whole thing is that no one will ever replace a cheapo PSU if they aren't having issues and if they have never had issues in the past. By the same token if you aret having PSU issues you will know (by the generally unstable nature of your system). The reason you will know is that you will troubleshoot almost every other system first before getting to the idea that maybe the PSU is the culprit. If you took this to a repair shop it would cost you $200+ to trouble shoot the problem via standard procedures.

That said, I think that using a cheapo PSU is one of the sins that you can largely get away with. The reason is that most people don't use that much power as it is. I mean a PC rarely uses Max Power on all components at the same time. In fact I cannot think of a situation where that would happen. Furthermore, I have never seen a case where using a "poor quality PSU" actually did any damage to a PCs internal components. Usually if the PSU isn't up to the take it will result in an unstable system or in a system that just doesn't work at all. Often as a PSU ages the power outputs weaken and there will be a "downward spiral effect". So I suppose if you buy cheap and it "works for you" then there is no problem with that. However, PSU issues are notoriously difficult to trouble shoot especially if it works (kind of). Usually if a person ahs trouble at their place, but when you take it to your house to fix it works fine. It?s a PSU issue related to AC voltage fluctuations. If you are having stability issues, you have spent hours (and $100s) troubleshooting and its not clear what?s wrong, its probably a PSU. The solution is usually not a higher wattage cheapo PSU but a high quality, good one that meets your needs.

When someone here tells you to replace the cheapo it?s because they have had problems in the past. However in the current paradigm you are the only one qualified to know if your PSU will be good enough for your system. There is no real specification for how much power a PSU ought to provide. There are a number of important factors, wattage, amperage, line stability, efficiency, AC voltage tolerance, etc... All are important to determining if your PSU will work as desired. I don't think there are many good review site or a forum out there that will give a person a definitive outlook on what exactly will work best for you. The only real test is when you plug it in and it works.

The idea of name branded is totally ridiculous for PSUs btw. There is no sign on the outside of the case that tells you what is in there, so PSUs have no real branding potential except among people who are constantly taking apart their comps. Most other users probably don't know what PSU is in the comp and they don't care. If it work, that?s all they need to know.

 

ZUnit

Senior member
Oct 2, 2004
205
0
0
Originally posted by: pretzelbI don't think a psu is designed to power down when heat gets too high - they are more likely to shut off completely.
Its not but its generate less power when its hot. So i first think 620 is for temp 0-25*C and 520 for 25-40?
 

ZUnit

Senior member
Oct 2, 2004
205
0
0
I emailed to OCZ for details:

Q: What is operational temperature of the unit?
And for what temperature its rated 520W?

A: We rate our PSU at 40 degree C. The standard operational temp would be
considered 25 degrees.
 

Aries64

Golden Member
Jul 30, 2004
1,030
0
0
I emailed to OCZ for details:
Q: What is operational temperature of the unit?
And for what temperature its rated 520W?
A: We rate our PSU at 40 degree C. The standard operational temp would be

ZUnit,

This is good news from OCZ. As has been said in previous posts above, many (probably the majority) of PSU manufacturers USE THE PSU'S PEAK POWER (MEASURED BELOW A REALISTIC OPERATING TEMP) AS THE PSU RATING. This is BS, because you will not have the power when you need it.

PC Power & Cooling rates their PSUs' USING THEIR MINIMUM power output. I've been using PC P&C PSUs' for many years now because I know and appreciate quality, and I am willing to pay for it. Most people don't and are not willing. To me, inferior, hyped products are foolish economy.

That said, I think that using a cheapo PSU is one of the sins that you can largely get away with. The reason is that most people don't use that much power as it is. I mean a PC rarely uses Max Power on all components at the same time.

True. But again, most people don't appreciate quality, and even if they do they are unwilling to pay for the best. However some people actually DO have systems that may actually require that much power.

In fact I cannot think of a situation where that would happen.

I can. Suppose you have a system that is used for both work and play, or video editing with multiple harddrive and CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drives being accessed at the same time. Consider how much power multiple drives arranged in RAID use. I would venture that running six drives and a high-end video card uses a lot of power, even though they will be driven off of the 12V rail exclusively. I've run dual 200MHz Pentium Pro SCSI systems and I am glad I had my PC Power & Cooling Turbo 400 back then.

Also i dont see how having a led within cooler makes psu "gimmicky flashy toy".

If you don't think an LED-lit cooler or PSU is gimmicky and flashy no one can convince you otherwise. Just like body kits and graphics on cars. Lots of flash but does it make it any faster or handle better? Aerodynamic ground-effects are NOT really effective below 70MPH or so. So no. Hence its gimmicky and flashy for those that go for that stuff, just like LEDs.

In your logic everything with cool lighting and paint is plain crap?

Subhuman25 did not say that. He just made an observation whereby it appears that some of the people who have flashy, gimmicky PSUs seem to have problems. He did not say "everything with cool lighting and paint is plain crap" as you inferred from his statements. Personally, I dislike all the flash and prefer a more subtle appearance and approach to most things in my professional and personal life. But thats' just me.
 
sale-70-410-exam    | Exam-200-125-pdf    | we-sale-70-410-exam    | hot-sale-70-410-exam    | Latest-exam-700-603-Dumps    | Dumps-98-363-exams-date    | Certs-200-125-date    | Dumps-300-075-exams-date    | hot-sale-book-C8010-726-book    | Hot-Sale-200-310-Exam    | Exam-Description-200-310-dumps?    | hot-sale-book-200-125-book    | Latest-Updated-300-209-Exam    | Dumps-210-260-exams-date    | Download-200-125-Exam-PDF    | Exam-Description-300-101-dumps    | Certs-300-101-date    | Hot-Sale-300-075-Exam    | Latest-exam-200-125-Dumps    | Exam-Description-200-125-dumps    | Latest-Updated-300-075-Exam    | hot-sale-book-210-260-book    | Dumps-200-901-exams-date    | Certs-200-901-date    | Latest-exam-1Z0-062-Dumps    | Hot-Sale-1Z0-062-Exam    | Certs-CSSLP-date    | 100%-Pass-70-383-Exams    | Latest-JN0-360-real-exam-questions    | 100%-Pass-4A0-100-Real-Exam-Questions    | Dumps-300-135-exams-date    | Passed-200-105-Tech-Exams    | Latest-Updated-200-310-Exam    | Download-300-070-Exam-PDF    | Hot-Sale-JN0-360-Exam    | 100%-Pass-JN0-360-Exams    | 100%-Pass-JN0-360-Real-Exam-Questions    | Dumps-JN0-360-exams-date    | Exam-Description-1Z0-876-dumps    | Latest-exam-1Z0-876-Dumps    | Dumps-HPE0-Y53-exams-date    | 2017-Latest-HPE0-Y53-Exam    | 100%-Pass-HPE0-Y53-Real-Exam-Questions    | Pass-4A0-100-Exam    | Latest-4A0-100-Questions    | Dumps-98-365-exams-date    | 2017-Latest-98-365-Exam    | 100%-Pass-VCS-254-Exams    | 2017-Latest-VCS-273-Exam    | Dumps-200-355-exams-date    | 2017-Latest-300-320-Exam    | Pass-300-101-Exam    | 100%-Pass-300-115-Exams    |
http://www.portvapes.co.uk/    | http://www.portvapes.co.uk/    |