Subwoofer problems

[Hondaryan]

I have a 2001 Honda passport and I just put my 350 W amp and 112 inch subwoofer and now my starter doesn’t want to turn over the engine I have to try it 5 to 10 times for it to finally start how do I Stop the subwoofer from taking too much power from the starter

Moved from home audio.

AT Mod Usandthem

 

[Hondaryan]

I have a 2001 Honda passport and I just put my 350 W amp and 12 inch subwoofer and now my starter doesn’t want to turn over the engine I have to try it 5 to 10 times for it to finally start how do I Stop the subwoofer from taking too much power from the starter

 

[Paperdoc]

That's a subwoofer 9 FEET diameter, powered by a 350W amp. If you turn that on, it will shake your car into pieces as it blows your eardrums and those of all the neighbours around.Maybe you mean a 12" subwoofer? Oh, now I see you made that correction.

The answer is a VERY sturdy switch so you can turn OFF the amp involved. At full output that amplifier would consume over 40 Amps current from your battery, reducing its ability to supply an additional 100 amps to the starter. While I am sure it will NOT be putting out full power when you turn the key, the principle applies. This is a HUGE extra load on your car electrical system.

I strongly suggest you investigate upgrading both your alternator and the cable from it to your battery to provide the extra power this unit is using. You might even need to go with a larger battery. This is a sigificant re-design of your electrical system.

 

[Hondaryan]

That's a subwoofer 9 FEET diameter, powered by a 350W amp. If you turn that on, it will shake your car into pieces as it blows your eardrums and those of all the neighbours around.Maybe you mean a 12" subwoofer? Oh, now I see you made that correction.

The answer is a VERY sturdy switch so you can turn OFF the amp involved. At full output that amplifier would consume over 40 Amps current from your battery, reducing its ability to supply an additional 100 amps to the starter. While I am sure it will NOT be putting out full power when you turn the key, the principle applies. This is a HUGE extra load on your car electrical system.

I strongly suggest you investigate upgrading both your alternator and the cable from it to your battery to provide the extra power this unit is using. You might even need to go with a larger battery. This is a sigificant re-design of your electrical system.

Thank you for the information.

 

[NutBucket]

Did you wire the amp properly? There's no reason adding an amp would make the car hard to start.

 

[Hondaryan]

Did you wire the amp properly? There's no reason adding an amp would make the car hard to start.

Yeah I did I had somebody who does it for a living do it with me it might just be a bad starter I just didn’t want to include that because I just got the Starter replaced but sometimes they send you Faulty faulty starters

 

[BonzaiDuck]

My entire audio system is wired to the ACC/accessory lead to the battery and its fusible-link for maybe 50 to 80 Amps. All in all, the audio system won't draw any more than 15 Amps. But in your case, you would indeed want to wire it to the battery with the amp's own fuse. In that case, you would want a dashboard switch so it doesn't draw juice when you start the car. Put it another way -- all my audio components are separately fused and switched under the ACC circuit.

Also, someone else mentioned this: you'd probably want something like a truck battery of the "deep-cycle" kind, or a "deep-cycle" battery that fits your car.

I grew into adulthood during the Golden Age of rock concerts. I always found myself dancing with my girl mere yards from the bandstand or stage. Now, people say I need hearing aids, and I have tinnitus. It is refreshing to see -- in the 21st century -- someone who likes his music so loud that it will turn his ears and brain-cells inside out. It used to be the case that people like us would drive around with their windows open and their cars thump-thump-thumping to the beat, annoying every nearby driver at the stoplight. Now, people drive with their windows closed, and they have Blue-tooth ear-buds connected to their 21st century sound systems.

Truth be told -- I'm not sure what millennial 21st century music sounds like. After Eddie Van Halen died, I bought three Van Halen album downloads and the "Van Halen" CD. Few months ago, I bought my first Metallica album and proclaimed "Wow, man! This is all new shit, man!" Then I discovered the album was released 28 years ago.

 

[deadlyapp]

There is absolutely no reason why your car should be hard to start after installing an amp and sub. If your amp is properly controlled by a remote wire on the head unit (and not in a constant on state) then it won't even be powered on while starting the car. Get a multimeter and test your battery voltage or pull the battery and take it to an autozone or similar to have them test it for you.

Its likely not your starter, but you could absolutely have a bad battery or perhaps be overpowering your alternator (leaving your battery in a depleted state).

A deep cycle battery is worthless for this application - there's no need unless you plan on bumping your music loudly without the engine running for long periods of time.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

. . . . . .
A deep cycle battery is worthless for this application - there's no need unless you plan on bumping your music loudly without the engine running for long periods of time.

The reason I myself mentioned it: promotions for deep-cycle batteries cite high-powered audio systems as a justification.

After purchasing a battery tester and applying it to my AGM red-top to find the recommendation "Replace", I had a choice to either get another red-top or a yellow-top ("deep-cycle") and I chose the latter. The yellow-tops can sustain more or deeper discharges than the former type of battery . . . Probably more than I need, but it was only a few extra bucks . . .

 

[mindless1]

It was me. I loosened your battery cable because of all the racket your 9' sub is making.

The best test is disconnect your amp, charge up the battery to full >=12.6V, see if the vehicle starts normally for a few days, then leave it disconnected.

 

[deadlyapp]

The reason I myself mentioned it: promotions for deep-cycle batteries cite high-powered audio systems as a justification.

After purchasing a battery tester and applying it to my AGM red-top to find the recommendation "Replace", I had a choice to either get another red-top or a yellow-top ("deep-cycle") and I chose the latter. The yellow-tops can sustain more or deeper discharges than the former type of battery . . . Probably more than I need, but it was only a few extra bucks . . .

Optima Yellow Tops are more than just a deep cycle battery - they are also AGM - as opposed to just a "deep cycle" battery.

Should be noted that just swapping out a battery for a standard deep cycle may not even start your car because deep cycles have a lower CCA rating for the same size generally.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Optima Yellow Tops are more than just a deep cycle battery - they are also AGM - as opposed to just a "deep cycle" battery.

Should be noted that just swapping out a battery for a standard deep cycle may not even start your car because deep cycles have a lower CCA rating for the same size generally.

I just go by what the seller says on their web-site as to "compatibility" with my Trooper. I like AGM batteries. You may be right about some CCA ratings, but the Red Top was 850 and the Yellow Top was 850. No problem at all with it.

I've heard pros and cons about AGM batteries, pros and cons about the Optima line. The Red Top gave good service over five-plus years. Other factors caused it to discharge those three times, like leaving a car door open for several days in the garage before I replaced my interior lights with LEDs. I don't think they do so well when the ambient temperature is above 100F for weeks or months.

My last mechanic -- retired -- told me it was a good idea to throw the charger on it every so often -- every few months or so.

 

[deadlyapp]

I just go by what the seller says on their web-site as to "compatibility" with my Trooper. I like AGM batteries. You may be right about some CCA ratings, but the Red Top was 850 and the Yellow Top was 850. No problem at all with it.

I've heard pros and cons about AGM batteries, pros and cons about the Optima line. The Red Top gave good service over five-plus years. Other factors caused it to discharge those three times, like leaving a car door open for several days in the garage before I replaced my interior lights with LEDs. I don't think they do so well when the ambient temperature is above 100F for weeks or months.

My last mechanic -- retired -- told me it was a good idea to throw the charger on it every so often -- every few months or so.

Any deep cycle battery should be fully depleted and then appropriately charged with a good high voltage charger every so often.