Sunbeam Rheobus problem....

[JDawg1536]

So far I have 2 fans hooked up to the Rheobus. Both fans are controlled by either knob. Slot 1 will control fans 1 and 2, and slot 2 will control 1 and 2. Anyone else have this problem???

 

[Caldenfor]

I have the problem where the first two slots are always on while the other two are controllable. It must be a malfunction on mine because there is just no reason for you not to be able to manually control them. The first two are always on even when the knob is clicked off, the 3/4 slot work as planned. I don't know if its even worth complaining cause I would have to RMA and I don't have the packaging or any of that, just the reciept.

Dave

 

[SparkyJJO]

Why do you have two knobs doing the same 2 fans? It won't work that way. Just put 1 fan per knob or use only one knob.

 

[JDawg1536]

I dont. I have one fan on one knob and one fan on the other. The problem is that when I turn either knob it controls both fans, isntead of just the one I have connected to it.

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

What fans do you have connected, and how much power (amps) are they rated at?

 

[JDawg1536]

Originally posted by: Fullmetal Chocobo
What fans do you have connected, and how much power (amps) are they rated at?

Yate Loons

 

[Zepper]

I think you may have to rewire Yate Loons to make them work properly on the Rheobus's 3-pin fan headers - at least the wiring diagrams of the YLs I've seen are weird. You should have the red and black wires ONLY going to the Rheobus and the YELLOW (or yellow and black) wire(s) going to the mobo header (for speed sensing). So you want the drive power (4-pin) connector cut off or either NOT CONNECTED or adapted - I can't tell from the diagrams I've seen just how the YLs are wired. I guess I'll have to break down and buy a couple the next time I order something from SVC - wouldn't want to be the only one on the planet not to have tried one...

. The Rheobus does nothing with the speed sensor wire.

This just in: Use only the 3-pin connector on the Rheobus - DO NOT USE THE 4-pin drive connectors at all - it's an either/or deal. If you want to monitor the fan speed, you will have to remove the yellow wire from the 3-pin shell and put it into its own 3-pin female shell to plug it into the mobo header. They put that pass thru 4-pin on their to give you options in powering the fan, but mostly it's just confusing to noobs.

The moral of the story is: "If you aren't absolutely sure, do your homework BEFORE taking action." At least the polarizing of the connectors kept you from doing serious damage - this time...

.bh.

 

[Caldenfor]

AHHHH ZEPPER!! Please translate to stupid talk for me =0 I understand the three pin, four pin thing. I will undo the four pins in the morning, but what do I have to do with the three pin? Cut the yellow wire? I am unaware if you were answering my problem or the others lol. I just hooked up all the wires because I thought that was how they were supposed to roll. The fan is a three way to the three pin connector and then it has a male AND female four pin connector after that. I thought it was my Rheobus because I couldn't turn the switch to off, the LED/fans always stayed on.

Dave

 

[grimlykindo]

You shouldn't have to rewire the fans. I have 2 yate loons (LED) and 2 Nexus 120mm on my Sunbeam Rheobus and they turn on and off and adjust fine. I'm not sure but I think you have something hooked up backwords! Just unplug everything and start fresh.

 

[Caldenfor]

I have the four slots to plug in left to right. Front is first, then my heatsink fan, then the exhaust fan. The first two knobs are unable to be turned off, I wasn't sure if Zepper was trying to tell me its a wire problem. The third, exhaust fan, works as is just its noisy lol. The first two fans are always on and can't be controlled via the manual knobs. I DO have the four pin connectors hooked up from the two Yate Loons so it goes, Rheobus, Intake, Heatsink, Power, all connected via four pins. I just believe that my Rheobus is busted as in its always on for the first two knobs, but want to make sure I got the wiring right before I ever turn it on again.

Dave

 

[Zepper]

On Yate Loons, ignore the large connectors (it would be easier if they weren't even on there). If I had any Yates or Nexi, the 4-pin connectors would be first to go. But once you cut, you would have to splice and heatshrink the black and red wires.

{Dang,SVC cranked the price on the Yates - no more $3.00 ea. for two or more...}

. If you don't need or want to monitor the fan speeds, just plug the 3-pin connector onto the proper header on the Rheobus and you're done.

. If you want to monitor the fan speed, then you have to remove the yellow wire from the 3-pin shell (look carefully at the connector and you will see a little silver tongue sticking up into the slot that holds the contact in the shell - press down gently on the tongue and the contact can be slid out. You then put the yellow wire's contact into the proper hole in a separate 3-pin shell (you would have to obtain the extra shell yourself) so you can then connect that to a monitored fan header on the mobo. You don't have to cut anything. SVC.com, jab-tech.com, action-electronics.com, etc. sell contacts and 3-pin shells.

Here is a pic of the Y-L/Nexus wiring.

.bh.

 

[IEC]

Originally posted by: Zepper
I think you may have to rewire Yate Loons to make them work properly on the Rheobus's 3-pin fan headers - at least the wiring diagrams of the YLs I've seen are weird. You should have the red and black wires ONLY going to the Rheobus and the YELLOW (or yellow and black) wire(s) going to the mobo header (for speed sensing). So you want the drive power (4-pin) connector cut off or either NOT CONNECTED or adapted - I can't tell from the diagrams I've seen just how the YLs are wired. I guess I'll have to break down and buy a couple the next time I order something from SVC - wouldn't want to be the only one on the planet not to have tried one...

. The Rheobus does nothing with the speed sensor wire.

This just in: Use only the 3-pin connector on the Rheobus - DO NOT USE THE 4-pin drive connectors at all - it's an either/or deal. If you want to monitor the fan speed, you will have to remove the yellow wire from the 3-pin shell and put it into its own 3-pin female shell to plug it into the mobo header. They put that pass thru 4-pin on their to give you options in powering the fan, but mostly it's just confusing to noobs.

The moral of the story is: "If you aren't absolutely sure, do your homework BEFORE taking action." At least the polarizing of the connectors kept you from doing serious damage - this time...

.bh.

The easy way: +12V molex power is the red wire. GND is the black wire. Use those two in a 3-pin connector to connect to a rheobus/fan bay. If you want RPM monitoring use the yellow wire in a 3-pin connector to a mobo header. Alternatively if all you want to do is run 12V fans @ 5V you can switch out the +12V (red) and +5V (yellow) molex pins so that +5V is provided through that connector. Be warned that connecting anything else using that line will be +5V as well.

 

[Caldenfor]

So basically I should just disconnect the four pins and call it a day leaving the three pins connected to the Rheobus. They are so quite it didn't matter any way, but I wasn't sure if the Rheobus was broken or if it was how I had it wired. I need to replace the Sanyo Denki exhaust fan because it is too loud, but no real emergency on that and the Rheobus lets me control it as is. Thanks for all the tech info, not good on the volts but I understood all of the wire talk up till that lol. So if I plug the Yate Loon into the Rheobus it will run full tilt 24/7, but if I plug it into the mobo, the mobo can control its speed so it really defeats the purpose of the fan controller for them. I will leave the Rheobus going and just disconnect the four pins and leave it alone.

Dave

 

[Zepper]

If you drew yourself a wiring diagram of the way you have it wired now, it would be easy to see why both knobs control both fans. Do like you said and that will stop.

.bh.

 

[gamefreakgcb]

If the rehobus can control the sanyo denki, I say leave it and use it on a low-medium speed. Use it on full when you're OC'ing or something.

 

[Caldenfor]

I don't have the issue with both fans controlled by one knob, I have the problem where the first two knobs are unable to be turned off, which I most likely would never need to do, just a malfunction with the Rheobus or my wiring, I think its the Rheobus. It gets loud at a medium speed =/ May be the fan design or just an unlucky fan, but it is pretty loud, like 20x louder than Yates at least.

Dave

 

[Zepper]

Well if besides having the two fans connected at the 4-pin connectors, you also have a connector from your PSU connected directly there, then you have your answer (the fan controller is irrelevant when you have power connected to the fans another way) - It is one or the other...

.bh.

 

[Caldenfor]

Well I had the PSU go straight to the fan controller and disconnected all other 4-pins for my fans this morning before heading out to work. I don't want to boot it up again until I get my BIOS in order which I have been a bit lazyish getting to, hate learning things from scratch. Other than that the PC started up with no excess beeping(from my knowledge) and asked me to insert boot disk. I think its good to go once I get BIOS setup. Common sense would have told me your last post Zepper, but I guess I just rushed it a bit thinking they had to have had the 4-pins there for another reason, wouldn't they get power through the 3-pins via motherboard? Guess people may just go straight from PSU to the fans and full blast them. I call stupidity and ignorance on my part for connecting them in a loop like that.

Dave