The Cost Of Vehicle Ownership

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,180
1,780
126
As a "senior citizen" and AARP member, I get a monthly "AARP bulletin" -- something in the same format as your Sunday newspaper Parade magazine, but with about 60 pages.

The May 2021 edition provided the following informational insert:


The statistics are only as good as the detail they provide, and while these averages are useful, they mention nothing about insurance costs, "Used versus New" or "Labor" expense.

Even so, applying optional assumptions, we can still make personal comparisons with the numbers.

Let's take the distinction of "New" versus "Used" car-owners first. Are there different categories of new car-owners? I'll leave that for someone else adding to the discussion.

Based on personal experience only, I suggest that there are at least three categories of used car-owners.

There are those who bought a new car, and keep it as a used one because they don't want to buy another new one.

Then, there are people whose pocketbooks and priorities -- or just their common sense -- incline them to buy a used or "pre-owned" vehicle. Eventually, when something goes wrong and costs them -- say -- $1,000, they either sell it, or they junk it, and then go out and buy another "beater" -- another used car. Or -- they buy a new car.

I had one very good friend who was a very practical person, who had bought a 1987 Isuzu Trooper to supplement his "great-outdoors" needs. He kept this vehicle until the year 2000. In fact, he was going to continue keeping it along with his brand-new Nissan XTerra, until I visited him in Albuquerque in 2000 and asked him how much he wanted for it. He wanted $1,000, and I asked him what needed repair. It needed a new CV-joint boot -- which, even in those days, meant that the repair-shop would merely replace the entire CV-joint with new boot because it was easier and no more expensive than pulling the old transaxle, taking it apart and replacing the boot. I continued my relocation trip to CA and returned a month later to pick up the 87 Trooper with a $1,000 check and a NAPA neoprene "split-boot" repair -- a half-hour in trouble. When he saw what I'd done, he said "Gee! If I'd known you could do that, I wouldn't have sold you the Trooper!"

Finally, there is the used-car fanatic or extremist. Like Charlton Heston and his Weatherby bolt-action rifle, the extremist says he won't give up his old car until someone has to pry it from his cold, dead hands.

That's me.

And what's this all about? Score-keeping. Score-keeping is an accounting exercise. Suppose you run a repair-shop. I'm not trying to confuse things with the example -- it could easily be a pizza-parlor or 31-Flavors Baskin-Robbins franchise. You want to know "How am I doing?" How you are doing is best discovered by keeping a good book-keeping and accounting system -- the backbone of any business. And if you're a smart car-owner who doesn't have deep pockets to savor spending big-bucks on a fancy ride, you'd still apply the same principles.

Which -- I think I do . . .

OK -- so we don't know whether AARP has included labor charges for parts-replacement, and we don't know if they've included insurance charges in the overall cost of vehicle ownership.

In the last 20 years, I've needlessly wasted about $3,500 in expenses on my old SUV. "Wasted" simply means that I was either guilty of owner-negligence (failing to pay attention to the transmission warning light), or gullible enough at this or that point in time to accept a mis-diagnosis and unnecessary repair expense ("You need new valve-cover gaskets" was the last episode. The oil was coming from a worn drain plug -- not the valve cover gaskets).

In addition to the wasted money, there is discretionary expense of adding features to a car. New (hard to find!) grill-guard -- $500. Sound-system make-over plus Wi-Fi backup camera, Android tablet and MP3 player -- $400.

Over twenty years, my monthly insurance costs have been $75/month. Over the last 4 years, I've spent $4,700 in repairs and maintenance. Given the mileage I've put on the car since 2018, none of this would've affected "drive-ability" today -- right now. There's an additional outlay for the grill-guard, sound-system and fog-lights -- $1,050. Two weeks ago, I bought new tires for $700: the old ones may have had two more years of tread, but they were 8 years old.

Excluding these latter outlays, but INCLUDING the insurance bill, my monthly expense is $170. If you add fuel to my own equation, that works out to about $225/month. Different folks, different strokes, different mileage, different states, different gas-prices. I live in California. INCLUDING the unnecessary and discretionary outlays, my "look-over-the-shoulder" outlays yields something about $50 lower than the Alaskan average. I don't have any snow-mobiles, sled-dogs, canoes, snow-shoes -- or oil-industry subsidies.

It has been a long journey -- a journey that has taken me almost exactly 100,000 miles. I like it. I like it so much, I almost don't care about the score-keeping anymore.

But I still ask "How am I doing?" How am I doing in the business of keeping myself wrapped in a comfortable ride -- a rolling concert hall -- an upgraded B-52 with GPS, voice-recognition and voice navigation?

Certainly, I'm doing better than the first category of used-car owner, aren't I? And I'm doing better than the average car-owner (= (USED+NEW)/ALASKA_CENSUS) ) in Alaska.

But like I said -- I could almost not give-a-shit. I've located again a third "solid-gold mechanic" or repair shop. [The first two got old and retired, like I got old and retired.] We have an "understanding" at this point. I'll likely be dead and in my grave ten years from now, only adding another 30,000 miles to a car which -- likely -- won't require more than a new timing-belt/water-pump over that time.

And -- surely -- I'm an "Extremist". I'm waiting in the meantime to find out what Suburu will offer as an answer to the Ford Mustang Mach-E, and I'm counting my money -- knowing I could afford the Mach-E and its insurance bill if I buy one this year.

Maybe Suburu will come through next year or the following year. Maybe I'll just decide on one last fling in my sunset years, and get that Mach-E. Maybe gasoline prices will rise to $15/gallon, and I'll HAVE to get that Suburu or a used Mach-E.

On the other hand, what's the use of spending $50,000, only to have the CA DMV tell me "Your eyes are shot, your memory is shot -- you'll need to get a 'senior ID' instead of a driver's-license"?
 
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BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,180
1,780
126
Data set for this is readily available:


Viper GTS
Wow! Ausgezeichnet, Viper! Out-freakin'-standing! That's the source of the AARP snippet.

So it looks as though they include the insurance costs. They've also somehow folded in annual outlays on gasoline. CA may have the highest gas prices, but I only spend about $55/mo. My insurance costs are low, while Michigan's are high. My focus is on parts (plus labor?) including original purchase price (used or new).

My seat-of-the-pants calculations need refinement. For instance, I could determine three-year moving averages. The parts+labor I've spent recently have a projected life that could amount to ten additional years. Everything else should still last ten additional years.

But if it's only a matter of dollars, I'm doing OK. If I'm saving $4,000 per annum compared to new-car-payments, that's money that can pile up in saving toward buying a Mach-E or a Suburu. To me, a regular monthly payment is something I wish to avoid, preferring lumpy unforeseen outlays. And I can take my time looking for another ride . . .

Here's a side-question. A local real-estate tycoon was visiting his son next door. What a shiny red sports car! So I asked him about it. It looked fairly recent -- almost brand-new. It was a 2004 Dodge Viper. Like many millionaires, he's proud of his old car (really -- they are!) What is that? 17 years. 17 years old. I think he said he bought it used when it had 10,000 miles on the odometer. I should've risked asking more questions.

I didn't ask him WHEN he bought it. But if he bought it in the last few years, how does one find cars like that?
 

Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
12,024
2,756
136
If one wants an easy number, the compensation for mileage is 27 cents a mile.

Delivered pizzas......so that's how I know.....
 

Viper GTS

Lifer
Oct 13, 1999
38,107
433
136
Here's a side-question. A local real-estate tycoon was visiting his son next door. What a shiny red sports car! So I asked him about it. It looked fairly recent -- almost brand-new. It was a 2004 Dodge Viper. Like many millionaires, he's proud of his old car (really -- they are!) What is that? 17 years. 17 years old. I think he said he bought it used when it had 10,000 miles on the odometer. I should've risked asking more questions.

I didn't ask him WHEN he bought it. But if he bought it in the last few years, how does one find cars like that?

You really have to be specifically looking for them. I bought my 2001 in 2011 with ~15k miles on it. They're rare enough that many people don't know what they are, and have no idea how old they are or how much they cost. I overheard people talking about my '$100,000 car' while getting gas or around the office multiple times during my ownership. I did my best to educate people about them. No, it wasn't $100k even brand new. I paid $33k. Sold it for $32k after 7 years of ownership and 15,000 miles. Yes it was expensive to run, but if you resist the urge to do things like gears and preparation for supercharging the cost would have been much lower. Overall including modifications I spent about $2.18 a mile not including insurance cost (about $900/year to insure during my ownership from age 28). Worth every penny.

The vast majority of cars like that are 3rd, 4th, or even higher number cars. I had 4 through much of my ownership. So they get driven only in ideal circumstances, nearly universally garage stored, etc. Combine all that with getting driven only a few thousand miles a year at best and it's easy to see why they stay looking shiny for decades. Vipers also happen to be generally reliable. The older ones like mine (Gen 2) have a few pain points that will bite you eventually if you don't correct them but they're easy to avoid. They're simple cars - Huge motor that isn't very stressed, beefy transmission, lots of tire. As long as you don't wreck them they're not likely to develop expensive issues. Stable value makes them cars you potentially own for years just for the cost of gas, oil, insurance, and tires.

Viper GTS
 
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BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,180
1,780
126
If one wants an easy number, the compensation for mileage is 27 cents a mile.

Delivered pizzas......so that's how I know.....
That's "cost accounting" -- an interesting subject -- for instance, calculating "unit margin".

Cents-per-mile is a useful measure of bang-for-buck, provided you have to put miles on the vehicle. When I worked, I was racking up between 12K and 14K miles per year.

Somewhere I saw -- or heard rumor of -- somebody who owned one of the original Volkswagons, and who, through persistence and elbow grease, was able to squeeze a million miles from it. Maybe it cost him $0.02 per mile. I was doing well with my old fleet of 79 Civics -- maybe something less than $0.10 per mile -- but my spreadsheets on those are long-gone!. But now -- with my 26-year-old orphaned Trooper -- it's not a significant or useful measure of anything, because I drive less than 3,000 miles-per-year. If I compute the cents-per-mile over the 100,000 miles of my own usage and 20 years, it's between $0.26 and 0.29 per mile, but over the first 16 years, it was $0.23 per mile. That's excluding fuel costs, which would add approximately another $0.15/mile. So over 20 years, it has cost me a kilo-buck less than the 1995 MSRP -- a comparison that should only admit purchase price, repairs and replacements. It's a luxury SUV -- not a throw-away budget sub-compact like my old CIVICs. With the Civics, you could squeeze 150,000 miles out of an engine, and I never had to have the 4 and 5-speed transmissions serviced -- friction-disc and throw-out bearing. A lot of other parts would rot after so many miles. The body-parts -- they needed special preparation to rust-proof them, but what's a $5 can of rubberized undercoat? Not much of an expense..

Of course, with the level of repair, replacement, restoration I've made over all that time and the recent larger-than-usual outlays, I expect to squeeze that number down a bit over the next several years -- should I live so long.

What would be nice? The freedom and time to take it on a "shake-down" cruise to Alaska and back.

The last time I took it "four-wheelin'" was 2003. It had been to several national parks up and down the west coast through 2005. One round-trip excursion to Northern Virginia (I'm in So-Cal) back in 2004. But that latter trip gives no opportunity to engage the 4WD and have that extra dimension of fun with it.

Somewhere I read that you can "renew" a catalytic converter by running high-test gas all the time. I've been doing that for four years, and I'm coming up on by bi-annual smog-test this forthcoming December. I'm eager to see the NOx results -- which are already good enough, and the CO and HC readings are stellar. Other than the steering-gear-box or the power-steering-pump or the fuel-pump, many of the other major subsystems have been repaired or replaced. The AC is original; the starter and alternator -- not. The tranny has 60,000 miles. The engine, at 192,000, runs better than it probably did during the first 50,000.

There are things that "go south" which you wouldn't think of, however. Do you know what a "Reluctor Tone-Ring" is, or what it's good for? I can still find that part brand-new from Isuzu Parts Center Missouri -- for $104. The salvage-yard offerings are $50. I'll leave this as a puzzle: the Tone Ring likely will require replacement of a sensor component, and it's part of a "sub-system" that is a factory option and not essential for drive-ability.

But the Used-Car Extremist is getting it fixed. The Extremist will pay for parts, and the Solid Gold Mechanic will offer up a free hour's labor. That's because two honest people agreed about the sieve of possibilities for causation, so we split the difference.
 
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Feb 25, 2011
16,988
1,619
126
I did the math when I bought my car, assuming 25k miles a year driven and a 200k mile lifespan. (Which are typical for me, or at least were before the pandemic) and it came out to about $0.25/mi. (Assuming I get to 200k miles just doing major service intervals, oil changes, and consumables replacements - tires, brakes, etc.)

Driving fewer miles in a year or fewer overall would increase the average per-mile cost.
 
Reactions: Torn Mind

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,391
1,780
126
Driving fewer miles in a year or fewer overall would increase the average per-mile cost.
Right, but that all depends on how long you typically own your car and whether or not you bought it new or used... If you drive few miles, but purchase vehicles that have already depreciated a great deal, you might be alright. That used to be my formula for saving money on vehicles. I bought a Buick when I was 24 years old that was all decked out....just because it was one year old, half price and had only 20k miles. If you find the right deal, you can end up driving that cost down on the front end.

We typically hold onto our cars for 10+ years, so I spread the cost of the payments (including interest) across those years when trying to assess what the cost of the vehicle actually is. As for maintenance, I do most things myself when not dealing with mufflers or things that require welding or a serious lift for access. We usually drive about 10k miles/year. All of our cars have low miles on them and are anywhere from 5-12 years old....
12 year old truck @ 38k miles
10 year old 4Runner @ 76k miles
5 year old van @ 48k miles

They're all paid off and we basically just swap oil and wiper blades at this point.
 

JulesMaximus

No Lifer
Jul 3, 2003
74,544
924
126
I bought my car CPO, it had taken an almost $30k depreciation hit in two years and 17k miles. We bought my wife’s car new and we plan on keeping it for five years for tax purposes as she uses it for business.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,180
1,780
126
I bought my car CPO, it had taken an almost $30k depreciation hit in two years and 17k miles. We bought my wife’s car new and we plan on keeping it for five years for tax purposes as she uses it for business.
All those other considerations throw a different light on things. My well-heeled friend with the fleet of BMW 320i's juggled more balls in his life than I could manage, and I was inspired to try. By day, he had a government job; by night, he taught classes at U of Maryland. He had a law practice on the side -- much of it weekend work out of a home office. He and another colleague had an "investment counseling" business. So he rented a new Mercedes Turbo-Diesel through the latter business, maybe kept a log of usage. Then, after five or six years, he had the business buy the car outright for blue-book lacking the depreciation toll his rental years had taken, and then he had the business sell him the car personally. His wife drove it mostly after that.

Because we were commuters, cents-per-mile seemed to be a good measuring stick. But I'm retired now, and -- as I said -- I drive maybe 3,000 miles annually. Meanwhile, in 2017, my cents-per-mile was about $0.23. Then I went through my refurbishment and repair cycle from 2018 through the present, and it is now $0.29. All that, and it's still costing me less than the average Alaskan vehicle as dollars-per-month. I see it this way. I'm saving insurance costs, and I'm driving around on about $7,000 recent years' expense as an uninsured liability if I prove at fault for totaling my car, or the compensation from the party at fault might be considerably less than $7,000.

But I'm paying for more than just mileage as "cents-per-mile". The car is in the garage, tuned, aligned, tip-top and ready to go -- for anything. Maybe I need to take Moms to the hospital. Or maybe we have an emergency when she runs out of vanilla ice-cream, and her Xanax hasn't kicked in yet. Or maybe some apocalyptic event forces us to shut down the house and head north -- to Alaska. The car is ready for the road.

Pandemic cabin fever? Many days, I have a tug-of-war with my brother, because I want to get out and drive the car.

"I need to go out and get some vegetables for Ma, and then gas up the car. I'll be back in an hour . . . just watch Moms on the security cam."
"You don't need those vegetables today, and the tank is still half full!"
"How would you like some carryout from Del Taco for watching Moms?"

I'm still planning to pack them both in the car on the right day for the right weather, and drive up to the mountains. Even at $4.57 per gallon.
 
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