The Power Supply Thread

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GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Questions.?
Would a PSU having Active PFC generate less waste heat if powered by a UPS w/AVR.?

Would you strongly suggest a UPS w/AVR be used to power a PSU with no PFC.?

I ask because I have both AVR & Active PFC.
I also believe everyone should use a UPS.

(Still like quality bb fans better )


...Galvanized
 

starwars7

Senior member
Dec 30, 2005
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Galvanized is there a particular brand of UPS that you've had good experiences with? I've never had one personally.
 

PrinceKee

Member
Feb 16, 2006
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OK, I've read this thread but still need some help deciding on a PSU. I bought a Dynex 350W PSU from bestbuy yesterday for $52 + tax yesterday but am going to take it back. The motherboard I just installed has a 24pin + 4pin 12V connector and recommends an at least 350W ATX 12V 2.0 compliant power supply. I have a Semrpon 3100+, ATI Radeon 9200SE, DVD +/- Burner, CDRW, 80gig HDD, 40gig HDD, and a floppy along with a side panel case fan and neon case lights. That one link suggested I need a minimum of 246W PSU. I really need something cheap. I'm not looking to spend that much on a PSU right now after all the money I've been out of on a new board and processor. So I found this 400W Diablo PSU from tigerdirect for $34.80 after shipping. Would that be adequate for what I'm using until I'm able to get a better one? Thanks in advance...
 

starwars7

Senior member
Dec 30, 2005
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I'll let Jonny decide whether or not to post a link to his site, I think it would be helpful for you though. Just so you could see some name brand PSU's that perform well.

In the mean time you can check out this site:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=792566

It's and old post, but the good brands are still good and the bad brands are still bad.

I like FSP and it seems like with your budget you could get a solid one.
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Originally posted by: starwars7
Galvanized is there a particular brand of UPS that you've had good experiences with? I've never had one personally.

PM is sent. Discussion here about this would drive this thread off topic and since it's stickied, lets keep it to general questions about PSUs and their support.

Besides it is jonnyGURU's thread and I'm sure if blind brand loyalty raises it's head this thread will not work. I say this in support of the OP not because you asked about a UPS.


...Galvanized

 

PrinceKee

Member
Feb 16, 2006
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Originally posted by: starwars7
I'll let Jonny decide whether or not to post a link to his site, I think it would be helpful for you though. Just so you could see some name brand PSU's that perform well.

In the mean time you can check out this site:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=792566

It's and old post, but the good brands are still good and the bad brands are still bad.

I like FSP and it seems like with your budget you could get a solid one.


Which one from that link? I see 300W for around my budget but shouldn't I at least go 350W? Or does it really not matter for what I'm running even though my mobo manual suggests 350W.
 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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Oct 30, 1999
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Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee

Besides it is jonnyGURU's thread and I'm sure if blind brand loyalty raises it's head this thread will not work. I say this in support of the OP not because you asked about a UPS.

Exactly. If we start throwing around "this brand sucks, that brand sucks" the way most power supply threads in this forum end up, this thread isn't going to work. Even "lists" are bad because they make broad generalizations. There's a few de-facto "really bad" power supply brands out there, but I'm not even willing to bring them up unless someone wants a really good reason why they shouldn't power a system with a $30 to $40 power supply (not including power supplies that are $30 to $40 after rebates, of course.)

That said, the Dynex and Diablotek brand power supplies are not really good values because the ratings on their labels are unrealistic for the operating temperature of a normal PC. This sort of references that "de-rating curve" I was talking about. You know the de-rating curve I mentioned PCP&C uses as advertising propaganda that I said doesn't apply to most people here? It now applies to you, my friend.

I would not suggest spending less than $70 for a power supply for a modern PC. The best value for a power supply is going to be the Nextherm 460W. If you use Froogle, you'll find it at a number of vendors.

Now I'm sure some people will come in and suggest some other units and that's fine. But keep in mind that the Nextherm is 78% efficient typical, has active PFC and a combined 12V rail of 32A. Of course, I am not all knowing so if anyone knows of any other PSU's that fit the bill for that price, I'm all ears.

If you're willing to spend more, please list your criteria (budget, bling, etc.) and I'm more than happy to help because there's power supplies out there with more features and even more power for $10, $20 or $30 more.

Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Questions.?
Would a PSU having Active PFC generate less waste heat if powered by a UPS w/AVR.?

Would you strongly suggest a UPS w/AVR be used to power a PSU with no PFC.?

I ask because I have both AVR & Active PFC.
I also believe everyone should use a UPS.

(Still like quality bb fans better )


...Galvanized

AVR and PFC are two different things, though.

AVR just boosts low AC voltages and trims high AC voltages, but it doesn't simplify any complex loads plugged into it.

I would suggest AVR for anyone. PFC or not. Not even in the form of a UPS, because you can get higher VA capable AVR's for a lot less than a UPS with AVR. And never buy a UPS without AVR.

 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
Moderator
Oct 30, 1999
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Originally posted by: PrinceKee
So I should I pull the plug on that Diablotek PSU for the time being?

That's what I'm saying, yes.
 

grohl

Platinum Member
Jun 27, 2004
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Muchas gracias for an excellent, and overdue, review of power supplies and all of the confusion they create.
 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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Originally posted by: JEDIYoda
Originally posted by: ribbon13
http://www.80plus.org/

I have been to that site...
Correct me if I am wrong...But this site does not test all PSu`s.
Companies submit there PSU`s for evaluation...thus...

Correct. They do not. Like nVidia SLI certification, PSU's have to be siubmitted for testing.

But I do like their testing, specifically the fact that they test efficiency at three loads, 20%, 50% and 100%.

I wonder if they use the Intel ATX spec polygon to determine what "20%, 50% and 100%" are. Because they don't state what the load is on each rail and power supplies drop in efficiency when they are crossloaded.

I'm also curious about their testing environment. I'm sure it's 115V input, but what are the temperatures in the testing room and do they set up a pseudo-build so the heat that is generated by the wattage the power suppply provides is fed back into the power supply. That's what's so great about SPCR's reviews. They have the box built around the tester so the heat is pumped back into the power supply like in a real world environment.


 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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Oct 30, 1999
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Originally posted by: greyeyezz
So this isn't a very accurate guideline for figuring 12V amps?

Who said?

It looks pretty accurate actually. He did a very good job.

Mine is very general. He actually broke down certain CPU's and video cards. That takes a lot of research (looks like he uses X-bit a lot) and graphing that I just don't have time to do.

His numbers on the video cards seem a little low. Even if you give yourself the 10% headroom, they're a bit low.

And the 7800GTX doesn't draw about as much as the 6800, it draws a bit more. He quotes Xbit labs and I think the Xbit labs numbers aren't really under load numbers.

The rest of the stuff is really close. He says 2A for a HDD. I say 1.5A. He says 1A for an optical, I say 1.5A (I guess that evens out if you have the same number of each!)

So use his, use mine... it doesn't matter. Just use one!!! It's better than flying blind!!!

 

Bobthelost

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: jonnyGURU
Who said?
P4 LGA775 System
* Intel Pentium 670 (3.8 GHz)
* Intel D915PBL motherboard
* 512 MB Corsair DDR2 RAM
* AOpen Aeolus 6800GT PCIe VGA card
* 250 GB Western Digital Caviar SE HDD

With your numbers you get: 26.4A *.95 = 25A

Using his you get: 20.9A (ish and including the 10% comfort blanket and the highest P4 draw he lists).

Real world test you get: 16.9A (continuous draw, not peak)
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article265-page4.html

Your numbers appear very padded for continuous draw as that system draws around 17A from the 12V rail. For peak loading you can increase that by an amp or three for the HD/fans spinning up, so it'd peak at around 20A during startup (roughly). Since most good PSUs are rated for continuous load and have higher peak tolerances continuos load is a better value to look at imo.
 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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Oct 30, 1999
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Originally posted by: Bobthelost
Using his you get: 20.9A (ish and including the 10% comfort blanket and the highest P4 draw he lists).

Real world test you get: 16.9A (continuous draw, not peak)
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article265-page4.html

Your numbers appear very padded for continuous draw as that system draws around 17A from the 12V rail.

Yes. I did base my numbers off of peak numbers, but I'd rather be OVER then under.

Like I said, his numbers are broken down a lot more and there's nothing wrong with that. Like differentiating a Venice from a Clawhammer... that's cool. But if I did that, I'd be in here every weekend updating the numbers and have an Inbox full of people saying things like, "Well I have an Pentium 4 this and that and that's not on your list, so what number should I use?" So I used the highest number possible so I wouldn't have to constatly update the post and so nodbody could blame me if someone runs out and buys an underpowered power supply.

Using your example: I don't think 25A is unreasonable. It's not like I'm telling someone with a 3.8GHz P4 to run out and buy a 600W with 34A on the 12V rail. But I would definitely feel better suggesting a power supply with 25A on the 12V rail (which you can get in some 400W power supplies) then one that has only 18A on the 12V rail (something that you can find in a 480W power supply!)

So regardless of who's math you use, the message is still very clear: WATTS DON'T MEAN SQUAT!!!

Originally posted by: Bobthelost
Since most good PSUs are rated for continuous load and have higher peak tolerances continuos load is a better value to look at imo.

That's a loaded statement in itself that needs to be addressed on it's own. EVEN IF it's a "good" power supply that's rated at continuous load, at what temp? What's the de-rating curve?

And if we take a look at the user's build; we don't know the ambient temps or what other cooling apparatuses are in place elsewhere in the chassis.

So the actual capabiity of the power supply may not be label spec in every person's situation. I'm not willing to give MOST power supplies that much credit.

Again, judge on the high side and you won't end up screwing yourself over in the long run.

Here's a prime example.....

I know a system builder that was using a particular case because it came with a QUALITY power supply. They were "modest" builds, so if you used a "conservative" calculation, you'd find he only needed a PSU with 18A on the 12V rail. A decent 300W can do that for you. The cases came with 350W PSU's with 10A/15A (22A combined) on the 12V rails. The PSU was cooled with a pair of 80's, front and back. The rear fan was thermostatically controlled.

Because the builder only used a front 80MM in the case and nothing in the rear, the PC would heat up and lock. The air coming out of the PSU was ice cold. It wasn't helping with the chassis cooling. So he switched it out with a PSU with a 120MM that had 14A/14A (24A combined) on the 12V rails. The PSU didn't lock up because the CPU or GPU were overheating, but now the air coming out of the PSU was very hot. He essentially dropped that PSU's "continuous wattage" capability by 50W because it was being used as the system's exhaust fan.

Yes, the ultimate solution is to just put a 120MM fan in the back, but that costs money, time and adds noise. Small things to me, but everyone's different.

Speaking of rear fans....

Now let's talk about "quiet" PSU's that have very low CFM 120's... Different person, similar problem. They started with a particular 120MM fan PSU, and they also had a 120MM fan in the back of the case. The PC would lock up under heavy loads. CPU and GPU temps were good, but the PSU was VERY hot to the touch. Apparently, the PSU was getting so hot that it simply could not continue to put out the power demanded of it.

On a whim, he put a piece of tissue paper on the back of the PSU and it seemed like the PSU was sucking in outside air! Assuming the fan was installed incorrectly at the factory, he RMA'd the PSU. The second one did the same thing!!!!

He pulled the PSU out of the case and bench tested it. Low and behold, on the bench the tissue was sucked in at the fan and blown out of the back grill the way it's supposed to. A different PSU, but still a quiet model, was purchased and installed and it had THE SAME PROBLEM! The air wasn't moving from the inside out!

It turns out that the rear fan of the chassis was causing a vacuum. A venturi effect, if you will. The fan was moving so much air that it was sucking air away from the PSU. The solution was to add a fan to the front so the chassis would have positive pressure, but of course if you do that; you add noise! Can't win? You can always go with water cooling.

Bottom line, you can not take into account every possible combination of components in every possible environment. It's impossible unless you work with each issue on a one on one basis. If you want to help the masses, you use generalizations. That simple.
 

greyeyezz

Member
Mar 1, 2006
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BTW nice work on the article. Using his, my 12V consumption is (15.4), my Antec 350 (21A 12V single rail) should be enough to power a AGP card with an auxiliary power connector until i can upgrade or am i pushing it? I need to get another AGP card asap as a backup in case this one dies.
 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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Oct 30, 1999
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Originally posted by: greyeyezz
BTW nice work on the article. Using his, my 12V consumption is (15.4), my Antec 350 (21A 12V single rail) should be enough to power a AGP card with an auxiliary power connector until i can upgrade or am i pushing it?

Absolutely.
 

Bobthelost

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: jonnyGURU
Yes. I did base my numbers off of peak numbers, but I'd rather be OVER then under.

Like I said, his numbers are broken down a lot more and there's nothing wrong with that. Like differentiating a Venice from a Clawhammer... that's cool. But if I did that, I'd be in here every weekend updating the numbers and have an Inbox full of people saying things like, "Well I have an Pentium 4 this and that and that's not on your list, so what number should I use?" So I used the highest number possible so I wouldn't have to constatly update the post and so nodbody could blame me if someone runs out and buys an underpowered power supply.

Using your example: I don't think 25A is unreasonable. It's not like I'm telling someone with a 3.8GHz P4 to run out and buy a 600W with 34A on the 12V rail. But I would definitely feel better suggesting a power supply with 25A on the 12V rail (which you can get in some 400W power supplies) then one that has only 18A on the 12V rail (something that you can find in a 480W power supply!)
By not saying just how much padding there is inherrent in your numbers you get the "a little extra" syndrome, people buy PSUs thinking they will use them for future builds and leave room for upgrades, then they will want a bit more comfort blanket for those too, suddenly the system you recomend 25A for has a 34A PSU.

Perhaps a small codicil to the power supply bit stating there is a significant comfort blanket built in even after your 90% numbers.
So regardless of who's math you use, the message is still very clear: WATTS DON'T MEAN SQUAT!!!
No, no arguement on that.

Originally posted by: Bobthelost
Since most good PSUs are rated for continuous load and have higher peak tolerances continuos load is a better value to look at imo.

That's a loaded statement in itself that needs to be addressed on it's own. EVEN IF it's a "good" power supply that's rated at continuous load, at what temp? What's the de-rating curve?

And if we take a look at the user's build; we don't know the ambient temps or what other cooling apparatuses are in place elsewhere in the chassis.

So the actual capabiity of the power supply may not be label spec in every person's situation. I'm not willing to give MOST power supplies that much credit.

Again, judge on the high side and you won't end up screwing yourself over in the long run.
[/quote]

You mention those factors in your other parts of the guide, again another cause for "a little extra", if you're going to include them then you damned well need to say so. Because otherwise you'll slight the PSUs that can and do provide the power rated even at higher temps.

In short:

If you're using peak values say so, otherwise everyone will assume that they are continuos loads
If you're padding the numbers to ensure it will work say so. Otherwise it can be interpreted as the minimum needed.
If you've factored in a higher operating temp then say so again, with some systems it's a poor assumption (any of the dual chamber PCs for example).

It's a good guide, with the exceptions of the numbers you give, which are misleading as they stand.
 

jonnyGURU

Moderator <BR> Power Supplies
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EDIT: Criticism was constructive, so I've edited the "formula" and asked that the thread be unlocked.
 

Bobthelost

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2005
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We could go into a long in depth discussion of the flaws of single 120mm fanned PSUs, and the tendancy to "vent" air back towards the front of the case, resulting in rather high localised temperatures that have caused problems. Or the advantages with 80mm straight line airflow PSUs over the 120mm in well designed cases. Hell we could even delve into the advantages of negative pressure over positive.

However i think that's going to go off topic for this thread. Best to leave it to a seperate one imo.
 

jonnyGURU

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I agree with you 100% that if you have a typical front to back ventillation in your case with a "standard" air flow PSU, that you can actually get by with just a 300W or 350W power supply. You wouldn't believe how many high end builds I've built that were Pentium 4's with PCI-e cards that I'd just use the FSP350 that came in the case and have never had a single issue.

But I'm NOT getting into that. At least not in this thread.

I'm not getting into why an FSP350 is better than a Thermaltake 480W. I'm not getting into why a PCP&C 510W is better than an Aspire 680W. Give the people the information and let them figure it out for themselves. Anything more than that and you and I are perceived as shills or zealots.

If we bring in every possible variable into the equation then we muddy up the water for the people that come in here for advice. If you want to recommend someone use a lower wattage power supply after knowing their entire scematic for chassis ventalation, then go for it. But that's only the kind of thing I'M willing to do on a case by case issue.

I appreciate your insight. But please realize the tone of the thread. Low-tech. Easy math, etc. Otherwise, I'd just post all of this in the high-tech forum!
 
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