Thermalright Ultra-120

Nocturnal

Lifer
Jan 8, 2002
18,927
0
76
Is it easy to mount on an ASUS A8N32? Does it require removing the mobo from the case?
 

orion23

Platinum Member
Oct 1, 2003
2,035
0
71
Not necessarily hard!

I think the hardest part for me was trying to get the holding bracket through the base of the heasink. It has to be done at an angle.....


And be careful with those fins, I got a very bad cut when my screw driver snapped and my finges hit the fins. I might actually end up with a scar there!

Worst computer related injury for me so far.....
 

Nocturnal

Lifer
Jan 8, 2002
18,927
0
76
What kind of motherboard do you have? The retention modules on the A8N32 is north-south where as they say it would be better suited if it was east-west. So what would happen is the fan would be blowing the air into the PSU's fan which is blowing downwards.
 

Baked

Lifer
Dec 28, 2004
36,052
17
81
You can mount the Ultra-120 East/West or North/South. The Ultra-120 uses a back plate mounting system w/ spring loaded screws. Every secure, but might need 3 hands to screw the mounting plate to the back plate.
 

jiffylube1024

Diamond Member
Feb 17, 2002
7,430
0
71
It shouldn't require use of the motherboard as long as the board comes with a metal backplate (I think all ASUS boards now do). I just took off the stock mounting bracket by unscrewing the 2 screws and then installed the Ultra-120 on my ASUS A8R32-MVP and it works great .
 

cmdrdredd

Lifer
Dec 12, 2001
27,052
357
126
Originally posted by: Nocturnal
What kind of motherboard do you have? The retention modules on the A8N32 is north-south where as they say it would be better suited if it was east-west. So what would happen is the fan would be blowing the air into the PSU's fan which is blowing downwards.

Most PSu fans suck air into the PSu and out the back...thus the fan is an exhaust.
 

Nocturnal

Lifer
Jan 8, 2002
18,927
0
76
Originally posted by: cmdrdredd
Originally posted by: Nocturnal
What kind of motherboard do you have? The retention modules on the A8N32 is north-south where as they say it would be better suited if it was east-west. So what would happen is the fan would be blowing the air into the PSU's fan which is blowing downwards.

Most PSu fans suck air into the PSu and out the back...thus the fan is an exhaust.

I'm fairly certain the M12 blows air out the bottom as there is no rear fan on this unit.
 

Baked

Lifer
Dec 28, 2004
36,052
17
81
Originally posted by: Nocturnal

I'm fairly certain the M12 blows air out the bottom as there is no rear fan on this unit.

Not familiar with current PSU design I see. Virtually all the PSUs on the market right now has a 120mm or larger fan on the bottom sucking air into the unit, which is blown out the honeycomb and widely opened back of the PSU unit. The pictures in this review of a M12 500W will give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. This design allows quiet operation while maintaining sufficient cooling of the unit.
 

Fullmetal Chocobo

Moderator<br>Distributed Computing
Moderator
May 13, 2003
13,704
7
81
Definitely seems a lot easier than having the spring bracket mounts for the Xeons. Should be any problem at all with a new build...
 

cmdrdredd

Lifer
Dec 12, 2001
27,052
357
126
Originally posted by: Fullmetal Chocobo
Definitely seems a lot easier than having the spring bracket mounts for the Xeons. Should be any problem at all with a new build...

The only problem I had was the springs on the screws were pretty stiff and took some force to get started.
 

mikad0

Junior Member
Jun 24, 2006
8
0
0
I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I thought I'd possibly make some updates.

Couple things, first regarding some reviews on NewEgg about people running into major issues with the mounting system, the base not being flat, and it making horrible contact with the CPU. Here are the reviews:

  • doesn't work out of the box: base isn't flat, mounting system is HORRIBLE. Can't aim the heatsink towards the back of the case on socket 939, the only option is up/down along the mounting clip axis.

    The outer edges are not machined correctly, they are too high. When I put the tim on the cpu and placed the heat sink on, noneof the tim stuck to the heat sink, almost no contact with the cpu!

    Probably the best heat sink made if you modify the mounting system - but with the poorly engineered mounting system its 10 c hotter then the butterfly one. I truly think this is the best heat sink available today as far as its potential and ability to cool. Unfortunately it does not even get hot. that is the heat is not going into it, as my chip cooks. The only good thing is newegg let me return it. I bought another else where only because i hoped at (i had an order of items unavailable from newegg) the time the heat sink was dished. I suspected the mounting system - my instinct was right! It does not mount tightly, you clearly see it the cylindrical mounting posts move up and down when the board flexes, or by moving the heat sink. Does not fit flush do to poorly engineered mounting system. To fix this heat sink use rubber spacer on the bottom to force the heatsink to flatten out.

    after pulling off the heat sink looking at the cpu contact surface, i observed a circle of thermal compound (tc) that was in the middle of the cooler interface. This circle was less then the size of a penny surrounded by a circle of bright clean metal (not good) surrounded by an outer circle of tc on the corners. Approxiamntely 50-60% of the surface was clean and 40- 50% had made contact with the TC. Either the heat sink is dished or it is warped? I think the spring screws may not distribute pressure evenly? cross tightened the screws - so the bottom is not flat or it did not seat properly regardless there is a problem.

Has anyone ran into these issues or seen something similar or more professional reviews? Hopefully this topic isn't TOO dead.
 

WoodButcher

Platinum Member
Mar 10, 2001
2,158
0
76
I went back to water but used the ultra 120 w/ a Silenx 120 x 38mm fan. My temps at load according to TAT was 40 - 42. I was very pleased with it but I lap everything including my proc cap. It was a very easy install. Here is a screenshot of the testing. My p5ld2-vm system.
 

JEDIYoda

Lifer
Jul 13, 2005
33,986
3,321
126
Originally posted by: mikad0
I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I thought I'd possibly make some updates.

Couple things, first regarding some reviews on NewEgg about people running into major issues with the mounting system, the base not being flat, and it making horrible contact with the CPU. Here are the reviews:

  • doesn't work out of the box: base isn't flat, mounting system is HORRIBLE. Can't aim the heatsink towards the back of the case on socket 939, the only option is up/down along the mounting clip axis.

    The outer edges are not machined correctly, they are too high. When I put the tim on the cpu and placed the heat sink on, noneof the tim stuck to the heat sink, almost no contact with the cpu!

    Those are from reputable sites....
    Probably the best heat sink made if you modify the mounting system - but with the poorly engineered mounting system its 10 c hotter then the butterfly one. I truly think this is the best heat sink available today as far as its potential and ability to cool. Unfortunately it does not even get hot. that is the heat is not going into it, as my chip cooks. The only good thing is newegg let me return it. I bought another else where only because i hoped at (i had an order of items unavailable from newegg) the time the heat sink was dished. I suspected the mounting system - my instinct was right! It does not mount tightly, you clearly see it the cylindrical mounting posts move up and down when the board flexes, or by moving the heat sink. Does not fit flush do to poorly engineered mounting system. To fix this heat sink use rubber spacer on the bottom to force the heatsink to flatten out.

    after pulling off the heat sink looking at the cpu contact surface, i observed a circle of thermal compound (tc) that was in the middle of the cooler interface. This circle was less then the size of a penny surrounded by a circle of bright clean metal (not good) surrounded by an outer circle of tc on the corners. Approxiamntely 50-60% of the surface was clean and 40- 50% had made contact with the TC. Either the heat sink is dished or it is warped? I think the spring screws may not distribute pressure evenly? cross tightened the screws - so the bottom is not flat or it did not seat properly regardless there is a problem.

Has anyone ran into these issues or seen something similar or more professional reviews? Hopefully this topic isn't TOO dead.

I own an Ultra 120 and have not seen those issues present themselves...
 

orion23

Platinum Member
Oct 1, 2003
2,035
0
71
I love my Ultra 120.

Best heatsink I've ever used and it is very easy to install / remove.

BTW, mine makes great contact. It keeps a 4ghz overclock (1.53V) @ 40-50 Idle.

Normal loads in the high 50's, mid 60's.
 

graysky

Senior member
Mar 8, 2007
796
1
81
Shameless I know but I already started a new thread asking an install question about this HS here. Can you guys have a look an offer some advice?

Thanx!
 

jiffylube1024

Diamond Member
Feb 17, 2002
7,430
0
71
Originally posted by: mikad0
I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I thought I'd possibly make some updates.

Has anyone ran into these issues or seen something similar or more professional reviews? Hopefully this topic isn't TOO dead.


I had the same problem actually - base was not flat, and the heatsink made terrible contact with the CPU. Temperatures were crap.

I had to lap the base. Took maybe 20 minutes total and made a 10-15 degree C difference.
 

Bull Dog

Golden Member
Aug 29, 2005
1,985
1
81
Originally posted by: jiffylube1024
Originally posted by: mikad0
I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I thought I'd possibly make some updates.

Has anyone ran into these issues or seen something similar or more professional reviews? Hopefully this topic isn't TOO dead.


I had the same problem actually - base was not flat, and the heatsink made terrible contact with the CPU. Temperatures were crap.

I had to lap the base. Took maybe 20 minutes total and made a 10-15 degree C difference.

Same here too. I had a SI-128 that suffered from the same problem, but I've also had a XP-90, XP-120, SI-120, and Ultra 90 with flat bases.

 
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