Question Thermaltake Pacific CLD 360

[CyclicUser]

This is a 40mm thick, double fin, high density ( FPI: 25 ) radiator.
They say it's designed for high static pressure fans.
What constitutes a high static pressure fan that is commensurate with this radiators ability to dissipate heat.
I tend to use Noctua fans and have used their industrial 2000 and 3000 RPM fans in the past.
Is this what they are referring to?

 

[igor_kavinski]

Explains very nicely:

https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/hgq4x8/what_is_the_difference_between_airflow_fans_and

TLDR: Airflow fans are bad at moving air through the fins while static pressure fans may not move as much air but they are better at cooling radiators.

 

[CyclicUser]

Thanks
I would think that a 40mm radiator with high density fins would require a more powerful fan than a 25mm radiator with a lower density fin array.
I would think that a 64mm thick radiator would require a more powerful fan than a 40mm thick radiator.
I'm wondering if the Noctua 2000 or 3000 RPM fans would be well matched to this radiators heat dissipation capability.
I don't want to get into a deep dive into thermodynamic calculation to make a determination.
I figure someone has done this before.

 

[igor_kavinski]

Described as ideal for radiators: https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm

 

[Paperdoc]

For most radiators I would suggest a fan with a Pressure rating over 2 mm water. In the 120mm fan size by Noctua, their NF-A12x25 PWM is spec'd at 2.34 mm, the NF-F12 PWM is better at 2.61 mm. Probably that would suffice. Some might consider the iPPC line as overkill, but the NF-F12 iPPC2000 PWM model has a spec of 3.94 mm, quite a bit higher and certainly able to do your job. Likely it will deliver about 30% more airflow than the NF-F12 PWM model. The 3000 RPM version is much higher but not really needed for you. You will be aware that the iPPC fans are louder than their regular fans because they are doing much more work. To some extent that will be reduced because that fan does not have to run at as high a speed as the "regular" fans to produce the same actual air flow.

Just to help understand the specs, a fan's Air Flow rating is the MAX flow it creates at full speed against NO backpressure (airflow resistance). Actual airflow is reduced by anything in the path that interferes, producing a backpressure effect. The Pressure rating is the max backpressure against which the fan can actually produce some airflow - there is no airflow if backpressure is greater. Very roughly if you sketch out a graph of airflow versus backpressure it is a straight line from max flow at zero backpresure to no flow at the specified Pressure limit.

 

[aigomorla]

Thermaltake radiators are notorious for corroding because they mix metals and use a sacrificial anode.
They require special thermaltake coolant with corrosion inhibitors.

Thermaltake radiators, particularly those from their Pacific series, are generally designed with anti-corrosion measures in mind, often using German-made aerospace-grade materials and incorporating zinc for protection. However, like any water cooling system, proper maintenance is crucial to prevent corrosion and ensure a clean, long-lasting loop.

Here's a more detailed look at corrosion prevention for Thermaltake radiators:

1. Anti-Corrosion Measures:

• Aerospace-Grade Materials:
  .Opens in new tab
  Thermaltake's Pacific series uses high-quality materials designed to resist corrosion.
• Zinc Layer:
  .Opens in new tab
  The radiators are often constructed with zinc, a common anti-corrosion agent, which helps reduce electronic conductivity and withstand scratches.

Translation, its absolute GARBAGE, DO NOT USE, as a real custom watercooling system should not be mixing too many metals far off on the galvanic table to begin with to worry about corrosion and sacrificial anodes.

I highly recommend you not get it, and look for other options like alphacool nexxxos, eK, or XSPC.
Some chinese brands are also fairly good, like Magicool, Barrow, and Bykski, although Bykski can be a lottery if you get all the mounting hardware, or relevant mounting hardware.

Just make sure they say its copper / brass, no aluminum radiators unless your running a 100% aluminum watercooling setup down to the waterblocks.

 

[CyclicUser]

Thermaltake's site indicates that the Pacific CLD 360 is a copper build with a brass tank.

 

[aigomorla]

Thermaltake's site indicates that the Pacific CLD 360 is a copper build with a brass tank.

Here is a reddit article:

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/akzr6m/on_a_scale_from_110_how_good_is_the_thermaltake

Just avoid thermaltake. Its Garbage in the watercooling industry.
They can't even get there stuff right. Leave thermaltake to cases, and even then they have the WORST customer support i have ever dealt with and refuse to buy anything thermaltake now.

There are so many better radiators out there, especially alphacool Nexxxos series.
If you bought one, return it, this is my honest advice.


But I assume your talking about this:

Pacific C360 Radiator

High-performance 360mm slim radiator with copper flat tube design, high-density copper fins and brass tank.

thermaltakeusa.com

This is a very underpowered and poor radiator compared to the Nexxos XT45, or eK Coolstream even.

RAD Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator

Alphacool NexXoS copper radiator! Alphacool radiators for your water cooling!

shop.alphacool.com

Even this Magicool i would recommend over a thermaltake without thinking twice:

https://www.performance-pcs.com/products/magicool-360s-g2-ultra-radiator-black-mc-rad360sg2?srsltid=AfmBOorXQuctw3lmd1AGCVdVcygfNEKVNOu7EDSIIQLK2QiLYPL2wiO4

Ideally you want a 45mm thick or greater radiator. Anything thinner will make it very difficult for most fans to attain static pressure though it.
Also the flow drop inside the radiator will be brutal.
The only time where it gets too bad is when you go monster series, as that radiator is too thick.

The Nexxxos UT60 even would allow you to use a lot quieter fans and have a lower flow restriction on top, but the UT60 is pretty thick.
Even tho Thermaltake says its all copper / brass, i still would not trust it.

Once something starts to corrode its a massive headache, and us who been in this hobby for a long time, will never trust thermaltake.


Also to answer your question on fin density, the greater the density the higher the air flow restriction so greater static pressure required.
Static pressure is not CFM, so a fan with high CFM can have a really poor static pressure coefficient.
The Noctua IP3000 fans you have are great fan with high static pressure. Almost any radiator listed would work with them, but they are LOUD.

It depends on how much noise you can tolerate.

Also thickness of radiator will also affect fin density. For example there is not many radiators i can think of with high fin density that is thick, because that would make static air going though them very difficult. The thicker the radiator typically the quieter the fan you can use, because they will optimize with lower fin density. But dont let that stop you from blasting air though them, as you get more more air though the radiator, more heat is exchanged, and you get better cooling.

But also thicker radiators have more potential to store heat, and will take longer for your system to reach equilibrium. Meaning they can go from minutes, or even an hour before you see equilibrium.

Also flow plays a very important role in LCS. The greater the flow, the higher potential of heat movement.
Watercooling does not work on hot spots and cold spots unless you have a very poor flow like an (AIO). It works on equilibrium. meaning the water temp wants to stay equal though out the loop. The greater the flow, the less delta you will see though out the loop, and that is what you are aiming at. So a thicker rad allows a lower flow drop then a thin rad for obvious reasons, which is also why u want to try to maximize flow rate in your system.

A good rule of thumb is to maintain about 1-1.5gpm of flow though your system, as that converts to about ~400W of heat with a 1degree change in water temperature from the hot zone to the cold zone.

Here is some statistics on my system.... although its near the upper ranges of LCS, but you can see i have a very high flow rate:

 

[CyclicUser]

Again, the Thermaltake Pacific CLD 360 is copper with a brass tank.
It is 40mm thick. I have 65mm clearance in the case. With a 25mm fan I have just enough clearance.
Apparently Thermaltake contaminated your Cheerios with uric acid.

 

[CyclicUser]

I'm limited to a 40mm thick radiator if I want to mount the fans directly to the radiator.
A 40mm radiator with high density fin count theoretically provides the greatest heat dissipation ability.
One can calculate the heat dissipation potential of liquid knowing the flow rate.
One can do the same with air.
It doesn't help if the liquid can dissipate 400 watts of heat if the flow of air through the radiator can only dissipate 200 watts of heat.
What I would like to know is what fan is capable of pushing air through this particular radiator at a rate commensurate with its ability to dissipate heat.