Water set up opinions....

[AAjax]

Hi all,

Migrating my rig over to a new case and new water loop, and was looking for opinions and had a couple questions....

First the set up...

CPU block- Storm Rev.2 Now DteK FuZion
Chipset block- Swiftech
Pump- Swiftech MCP350
Res- Swiftech Mres1000
Rad- MCR-220
fans- 2x delta AFB1212VHE 120x38 130cfm, but going to run them on 7v at aprox 80cfm and 33dba
CPU- E4300 C2D
Case- TT Tai-Chi

This will be a single loop, just looking to clock the heck out of the cpu


And now the questions....

With the storms flow reduction, would it be worth it to get one of Petra's tops for the mcp350?

Leaving the mcp350 at stock would there be any advantage in going 1/2 tubing with adapters? (stock its 3/8)

Thanks for your input in advance

Jax

 

[Raider1284]

i wouldnt get the storm, the apogee gt and the dtek fuzion perform better then the storm and have alot less restriction: http://www.swiftnets.com/products/APOGEEGT.asp#

The apogee gt beats the storm, and the fuzion beats the gt.

Also, if you can get old laing DDC pump, aka mcp350. The new version 3.2 doesnt have the head pressure that the old DDC 2 had, but they are really hard to find. The res and rad look good.

 

[ChefJoe]

I bet that setup would do you just fine. You may want to glance over Swiftech's H2O-220 APEX kit which has pretty much everything on your list (a bump in the pump used though) and runs $250.

My experience with the Swiftech H2O-120 kit on a E6420 at 3.2 GHz is a 29-30C idle and 45C peak in a cool room (~20C) with a 120mm radiator fan that adjusts between 7V and 12V depending on CPU temps read. The 120 kit runs $150 at newegg and others.

If all you're cooling is a CPU you could probably get away with the same kit I have... if you're looking for lower temps/prolonged high CPU use/or upgrading to graphics card cooling then bigger is going to be better for that.

As for tubing size..... bigger means more water is in your system and there will be less constriction due to tubing (I have no idea if 3/8 vs 1/2 inch really makes all that much of a _measurable_ difference in backpressure) but I think you'd be better served by avoiding adapters and leak potential than trying to change tubing sizes.

 

[Marci]

Just to exemplify benefits of the mentioned Storm-replacements...

http://site.petrastechshop.com/images/CPU_DT4.jpg
http://www.over-clock.com/marci/nikhsub-block-test.jpg

 

[Raider1284]

the only difference between the h20-120 and the h20-220 is the radiator. You can buy both the h20-120 + an mcr220 radiator for 190 on newegg. You could then sell the single 120 radiator, or add it to the system. I dont get why the h20-220 kit is hundred more, makes no sense.

 

[AAjax]

Thanks for the info! I quess I should have mentioned in my first post I actually allready have the equipment listed Though Im seriously considering picking up the Dtek Fuzion block. If I go that route Ill prob go 1/2 with a petra top and all.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Marci
Just to exemplify benefits of the mentioned Storm-replacements...

http://site.petrastechshop.com/images/CPU_DT4.jpg
http://www.over-clock.com/marci/nikhsub-block-test.jpg

should mention that these tests were done on a dual core. And not quadcore.

 

[AAjax]

Originally posted by: Raider1284

Also, if you can get old laing DDC pump, aka mcp350. The new version 3.2 doesnt have the head pressure that the old DDC 2 had, but they are really hard to find. The res and rad look good.

I bought my pump used. How would one be able to tell what version this is (DDC, DDC2. 3.2 ect)

Its mounted with the Mres-1000p unit and appears to have no other markings (lots of help I know)


Thanks


EDIT: Took the sucker apart and its a mcp350 pt#72130

 

[nealh]

mcp350 is the DDC1 and the less power version

DDC2=mcp355= no longer made:brokenheart:

 

[ChefJoe]

Originally posted by: nealh
mcp350 is the DDC1 and the less power version

DDC2=mcp355= no longer made:brokenheart:

Maybe, but it's available at newegg... for a little while we hope.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...16835108097&Tpk=mcp355
Newegg.com - Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC Pump - Retail

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: ChefJoe

Originally posted by: nealh
mcp350 is the DDC1 and the less power version

DDC2=mcp355= no longer made:brokenheart:

Maybe, but it's available at newegg... for a little while we hope.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...16835108097&Tpk=mcp355
Newegg.com - Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC Pump - Retail

no... 2 vendors both confirmed, that both swiftech, and DD who uses the same vendor liang is shipping DDC-3.2's

Your only luck at a DDC-2 is either used, or finding a hole in the wall vendor who has them from last year that never sold.

 

[Raider1284]

Maybe, but it's available at newegg... for a little while we hope.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...16835108097&Tpk=mcp355
Newegg.com - Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC Pump - Retail

I dont think that is a DDC-2

"- 18W DDC-2TPMP (stock) -
Max. Head Pressure: 8.7psig (~20' -- ~6.1m)
Max. Discharge (flow): 2.24 GPM

- 18W DDC-3.2VCTP (stock) -
Max. Head Pressure: 6psig (~13.84' -- ~4.22m)
Max. Discharge (flow): 2.2 GPM"


the old ddc2 had 20 feet of head pressure! That newegg one only has 15'

The one of the ways to tell you have a ddc-2 is by checking the impeller color.
"18W DDC-2TPMP - This is the standard, red impellered DDC-2 that's available in the US.

18W DDC-3.2VCTP - This is one of the new 18W, blue impellered pumps"

 

[AAjax]

Well, a little update..

Just about have all my parts for the build and decided that the fuzion would best suit my setup. Additionally I also picked up a swiftech northbridge block to round it out.
Thanks for all your advice

Ill post some links to the build when it is finished (prob next weekend)

Jax

 

[aigomorla]

ahhh the best of luck on that tai chi.

Remember to leave some tubing room if you decide to side mount that radiator. You need to compensate for opening and closing. And make sure you use some smart coils on them so they dont kink when you close the side pannel.

 

[AAjax]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
ahhh the best of luck on that tai chi.

Remember to leave some tubing room if you decide to side mount that radiator. You need to compensate for opening and closing. And make sure you use some smart coils on them so they dont kink when you close the side pannel.

I thought about doing that but decided to bottom mount it with the cut-out and all.
Cant wait till next weekend to finally get it together