Wiring Question

Mediaga

Junior Member
Jul 28, 2011
19
0
0
I am adding office space to my house and am about to run the CAT5e wiring. I plan on using several vertically installed PVC conduits to 2x4 PVC boxes trimmed with multi jack faceplates (the conduit is so that I can make future cable runs from above easy after the sheetrock is up).

I am basing my plan on the assumption that I will, when necessary (and in addition to any I run now), add cat5e cables (I see that they make 6 jack faceplates for 2x4 boxes).

Is this the best way to do this, i.e., 6 cat5e cables down a conduit to female/female (passthrough?) jacks in each of the faceplate 'holes'?

Obviously, I'm winging it here .Thanks for any input!
 

Harvey

Administrator<br>Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
35,057
67
91
I don't have a good answer to your question, but have you checked whether a wireless router setup be effective and less expensive than all that construction?
 

JackMDS

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 25, 1999
29,539
418
126
To give you countable answer you have to describe the whole Network.

One thing for sure, use CAT6 not the "ancient" CAT5e.



 

Mediaga

Junior Member
Jul 28, 2011
19
0
0
I don't have a good answer to your question, but have you checked whether a wireless router setup be effective and less expensive than all that construction?

Hi Harvey. A good thought, but the construction is an addition and the walls are accessible. I do currently have a wireless network, but is via an AP connected to my cat5 network. For security and performance reasons, I require wire.

To give you countable answer you have to describe the whole Network.

One thing for sure, use CAT6 not the "ancient" CAT5e.

Hi Jack. Thanks for your comments. At the moment, the network is a simple affair. I am placing network access around the space to accommodate future expansion.

My real question is really weather the method of 2x4 PVC (electrical) boxes, multi-jack wall plates similar to this:

http://www.outletpc.com/c6216.html#axzz1TVAHWgrH

and connectors like these:

http://www.outletpc.com/c6653.html#axzz1TVAovWVp

are a practical way to provide network access for a possible workstation'?

As far as CAT6, it likely won't make a difference to me at this time, but with 3/4" vertical conduit, running new wire 8' straight down won't be a real issue.

I guess I should also mention that I am using the boxes as opposed to the open wall brackets to accomodate not only future runs, but also because at least one wall will be soundproof, with sound seal putty pads wrapped around the box, making the open-back wall brackets (low voltage rings?) impractical.

Again, thanks for the comments.
 
Last edited:

piasabird

Lifer
Feb 6, 2002
17,168
60
91
This depends on how many connections are on each floor. One person may use a central wiring cabinet and run individual runs to each floor/connection. Or you could run one high bandwidth cable to the area to a managed switch and control all the connections from the managed switch. Depends what kind of complexity you want to consider. If you are doing a lot of insulation, you may want to limit the conduit. If security is important you may need a managed switch to isolate a subnet. Of course the thing thing could be done with multiple lines and a centrally located managed switch. Whatever you do plan to add 50&#37; more connections later, just like you would do for an electric panel. Always best to plan for expansion if you are going to seal wires up. Running some extra conduit or overkilling the size may be an option. It is hard if you have to break down walls later.
 

Mediaga

Junior Member
Jul 28, 2011
19
0
0
I would direct you to the FAQ:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2053136 Proper Network cable installation.

Stickied to the top too...I should have checked there first. Thanks for the heads up. Learning and googling some of those terms helped me.

This depends on how many connections are on each floor. One person may use a central wiring cabinet and run individual runs to each floor/connection. Or you could run one high bandwidth cable to the area to a managed switch and control all the connections from the managed switch. Depends what kind of complexity you want to consider. If you are doing a lot of insulation, you may want to limit the conduit. If security is important you may need a managed switch to isolate a subnet. Of course the thing thing could be done with multiple lines and a centrally located managed switch. Whatever you do plan to add 50&#37; more connections later, just like you would do for an electric panel. Always best to plan for expansion if you are going to seal wires up. Running some extra conduit or overkilling the size may be an option. It is hard if you have to break down walls later.

It's just one big room (not huge), along with a few other rooms. 1 floor. My network at present has 10 machines, and there will be 'transient' machines in and out. I don't expect to grow too much beyond that. The multiple conduits are to give me options for what I have yet to learn and for what may come.

My current network consists of a cable modem, a Linksys router and a Netgear switch. I do indeed plan on some sort of additional isolated network, but haven't really had time to research that yet.

Part of my problem is that I don't know the right questions to ask. But three have occurred to me after reading your replies:

1. With 2x4 boxes (3" deep), how many of the keystone jacks would be too many? I've seen 6 in one 2x4 faceplate, but I'm wondering if the space inside the box might make it impractical? I'll be using 3/4" PVC conduit.

2. Would high temps be an issue for patch panel, router or switches if I were to place any of thes in the attic above? Temps in the summer might reach 110 degrees give or take (farenheit).

3. And as for the patch panel, would I even benefit from one, given the size of my network?

Also, any links to resources that might be helpful and cater to those of us at the beginning of the curve?

I appreciate the responses and patience with what must be elementary to y'all .
 

Modelworks

Lifer
Feb 22, 2007
16,240
7
76
2. Would high temps be an issue for patch panel, router or switches if I were to place any of thes in the attic above? Temps in the summer might reach 110 degrees give or take (farenheit).

A router or switch in an attic is risky when you are talking high temps. Equipment is usually rated for room temps of around 75F. If at all possible keep things like routers, modems, switches where they are at room temp.
 

imagoon

Diamond Member
Feb 19, 2003
5,199
0
0
A router or switch in an attic is risky when you are talking high temps. Equipment is usually rated for room temps of around 75F. If at all possible keep things like routers, modems, switches where they are at room temp.

Agreed. 110 in the summer= attic temps hitting around 155degrees. No 'typical' gear would survive in that.
 

notposting

Diamond Member
Jul 22, 2005
3,498
33
91
Also, I just want to add that having "stubs" down like that is a very common commercial technique, the top poking out of the header or out of the wall above the drop ceiling (granted it's using EMT usually but PVC should be fine for residential).

Depending on cost Cat 5e should be fine for Gb speeds...remember EVERYTHING has to be Cat 6 to be rated that way (patch cords, jacks, patch panel, cable). So factor that into the pricing.
 

Mediaga

Junior Member
Jul 28, 2011
19
0
0
Apologies for the delayed response...it's a very busy time of year here. Thanks for the heads up on the temperature issues where routers and such are concerned. Any opinions on #1 & #3?

Thank you!
 

imagoon

Diamond Member
Feb 19, 2003
5,199
0
0
Apologies for the delayed response...it's a very busy time of year here. Thanks for the heads up on the temperature issues where routers and such are concerned. Any opinions on #1 & #3?

Thank you!

1) around here you only use pipe to stub up, so 6 would fit then you pull the slack back in to the ceiling or floor. Just make sure the pipe is large enough (look up 'pipe fill capacity'.)

3) Yes because that is the correct way to do it. If you ask about putting mod ends (the rj45 clippy) 'You are doing it wrong.' You should patch solid core to a 110 based patch panel. I picked up a 48 port and only use 14 of them in my house so far...
 
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