YACT: Tires

[Apex]

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: huesmann
The only time you will have a problem with hydroplaning is if you're braking. I'd rather have the good tires on the front where they will do the most good braking.

guess you've never really hydroplaned before???? Brakes have nothing to do with hydroplaning. zero...they will do nothing. You are skiing at this point.

When you do hydroplane you have zero control other than desparately trying to make small steering adjustments. You have no throttle, you have no brake.

However, you do have a mighty urgent desire to change your shorts.

 

[spidey07]

Oh, one more thing about hydroplaning...had it happened many, many times.

1) I was driving what I considered normal for conditions and hit a low spot in the road where there was standing water (think 60-65 MPH on a just wet expressway and come up on a large pool of standing water)a
2) at this point I'm driving too fast for conditions
3) car begins to ski...driving less than 40 MPH would avoid this condition
4) You hydroplane and you are in trouble...best to hold on to the wheel and make very minor adjustments to get through it or just simply try and hold your line.

man, its spooky. very spooky to really hydroplane and without knowing how to deal with it I can see a car going completely out of control.

Which is why if the rain is really coming down I slow to 40-45 MPH and put on my flashers.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: huesmann
The only time you will have a problem with hydroplaning is if you're braking. I'd rather have the good tires on the front where they will do the most good braking.

guess you've never really hydroplaned before???? Brakes have nothing to do with hydroplaning. zero...they will do nothing. You are skiing at this point.

When you do hydroplane you have zero control other than desparately trying to make small steering adjustments. You have no throttle, you have no brake.

However, you do have a mighty urgent desire to change your shorts.

yeah, pucker factor is pretty strong.

 

[mercanucaribe]

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I know how to drive well enough that I'm not bending the front tire under every time I go around a corner.

Please explain. I think you might be describing something I've noticed.

If setup well a FWD car can experience oversteer and wear the rears more than the fronts.

But then again that totally depends on the suspension.

What if you have a RWD car like me? My fronts and rears wear pretty much the same... The only difference in wear is between the inside and outside of each tire, and I don't see how rotating the wheels is supposed to help that.

 

[Jeff7181]

Originally posted by: mercanucaribe

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I know how to drive well enough that I'm not bending the front tire under every time I go around a corner.

Please explain. I think you might be describing something I've noticed.

If setup well a FWD car can experience oversteer and wear the rears more than the fronts.

But then again that totally depends on the suspension.

What if you have a RWD car like me? My fronts and rears wear pretty much the same... The only difference in wear is between the inside and outside of each tire, and I don't see how rotating the wheels is supposed to help that.

Wear on one edge of tire usually means you have an alignment problem where the camber is incorrect. Wear on both edges of front tires can also be a sign of bad rear springs causing the rear end to sag, which increases caster, which wears the edges of the tires quickly. It can also be a sign of under inflated tires... but you'd most likely notice the tire looking flat before the tire has time to significantly wear from being under inflated. Excessive positive or negative toe can also cause premature wear on the edges of tires.

As far as your question about rotating them... the rear tires on a rear wheel drive, solid axle, have neutral caster, neutral camber, and neutral toe. So they wear almost perfectly even across the width of the tread... so rotating the tires obviously helps there, putting the unevenly worn tires in the rear to wear them more evenly. If you don't, you may end up replacing a tire after 20,000 miles that has 50% of it's tread depth left in the center, and maybe only 10% on the edges... whereas if you rotated them, you might get 30-40,000 miles and end up with 25% of the tread left in the center, and 15% on the edges. With independant rear suspensions, there's some angles involved, so the tires won't wear perfect, but the angles usually are no where near as great as the front tires, so unless there's a problem with the alignment, they should wear (for all intents and purposes) perfectly even across the tread.

 

[TwoBills]

OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

 

[91TTZ]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so, but sadly I've seen people who says things like this but they're serious.

 

[Jeff7181]

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Bad advice... go by the door sticker. Unless of course you're driving a race car on a closed course... then use telemetry data and lap times to figure the best tire pressure.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Also bad advice. Yes good alignment shops can be hard to find... that doesn't mean you should just say "screw it." If in doubt, you could take you car to an automotive school that has an alignment rack. You're almost sure to get a good job done there because the students follow the specifications to the letter cause they don't know how else to do it, and the teacher checks their work. I probably did 10 or 12 alignments in the 6 weeks I was in Steering and Suspension at college.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

We're talking passenger cars here... not race cars. Follow the door sticker for inflation pressure, and get a proper alignment and all will be well.

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so, but sadly I've seen people who says things like this but they're serious.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Want to be a little more specific there? I'm serious as a heart attack.

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: Jeff7181

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Bad advice... go by the door sticker. Unless of course you're driving a race car on a closed course... then use telemetry data and lap times to figure the best tire pressure.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe you just didn't understand the jist of what I was saying. If your tires are wearing even, that's flat across the tread, then they're inflated properly. Period. This isn't always true when going by the door sticker or the max sidewall pressure. Some car manufacturers set this low, to give the car a better ride. Not saying to go over the max sidewall pressure, but you've got a little leeway there. Some max sidewall pressure is 35, some is 44, depending on the stiffness/quality of the sidewall. Personally, I prefer the 44s.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Also bad advice. Yes good alignment shops can be hard to find... that doesn't mean you should just say "screw it." If in doubt, you could take you car to an automotive school that has an alignment rack. You're almost sure to get a good job done there because the students follow the specifications to the letter cause they don't know how else to do it, and the teacher checks their work. I probably did 10 or 12 alignments in the 6 weeks I was in Steering and Suspension at college.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I wasn't saying screw it, I was saying "step up your tire rotations". If you've got a vehicle that can't be aligned properly, the "alignment shop" will still do it, and charge you, and hope you don't come back. Tire alignments are "mostly" bs.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

We're talking passenger cars here... not race cars. Follow the door sticker for inflation pressure, and get a proper alignment and all will be well.[/quote]
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I wasn't refering to race car here, I was refering to my daily driver, which happens to be a lightly loaded truck. I haven't had an alignment on a vehicle in over 15 years. If you rotate those tires, keep them properly inflated, and keep good shocks on them, alignments aren't needed. A minor wreck or major front end work is the exception.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Course, you've gotta do the work yourself. If you rely on some of the so called "shops" out there, well, you're going to be running an inferior handling, poorly serviced vehicle. Hell, most tire shops don't know how to rotate tires.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so, but sadly I've seen people who says things like this but they're serious.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Want to be a little more specific there? I'm serious as a heart attack.

anybody that blames hydroplaning on the suspension instead of tires should be immediately dismissed as "I have no idea what I'm talking about"

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so, but sadly I've seen people who says things like this but they're serious.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Want to be a little more specific there? I'm serious as a heart attack.

anybody that blames hydroplaning on the suspension should be immediately dismissed as "I have no idea what I'm talking about"

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can tell that you've never had a good set of shocks on your vehicle(s). Otherwise, you'd know what I'm talking about. You, sir, are dismissed.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Jeff7181

Originally posted by: Banana
Here's

Here's an
illustration
of why new tires go on the rear axle.

I understand the reasoning... it's just my opinion that it's one of those things that sound good in theory, but doesn't make sense in the real world.

Yes, losing a rear tire will create an oversteer condition, and losing a front will create an understeer condition. Personally, I'd be less comfortable not being able to steer the car then having it turn too easily. I'd also prefer to lose 20% of the total braking power of the car rather than 30%.

You can "but" and "what if" this scenario to death. I'll still always have the best tires on the front of my front wheel drive car.

So here's a "what if" argument for those of you who think it's better to have the best tires on the rear of a front wheel drive car.

You're driving on a rainy day... going too fast for road conditions. You come to a curve and your front wheels begin to hydroplane because the tread isn't as good on your old front tires and the car keeps going straight. Now your old tires have increased lateral forces on them. So you turn the wheel more to try to get it to turn. It doesn't do the trick. So you let off the gas and weight shifts to the front of the car, increases the forces on your front tires. The car still isn't turning, and the natural panic reaction for most people is to step on the brakes to slow down so the car turns and you don't run off the road. So you shift more weight to the front of the car, further increasing the forces on your old tires. Now you finally gain traction... you have the wheels cranked pretty good from trying to turn... maybe the sidewalls on your old tires aren't as strong as they used to be and one gives way... or the bead separates from the sidewall. (happened on a set of tires I had a while back) Now your braking is reduced by roughly 30%... you can't steer the car again, but at least you're not fishtailing... right?

There is one big fault in that demonstration that you are going miles to avoid having to admit. There are at least 4 times the person has to screw up in that scenario for what you describe to happen. If the bad tires are on the rear, the person only needs to make the first mistake to sent the car cartwheeling rear-end-first into a tree and off the road.

Understeer provides far more opportunities for an average driver to correct. This is why even RWD cars come from the factory tuned for mild understeer in steady-state cornering.

ZV

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so, but sadly I've seen people who says things like this but they're serious.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Want to be a little more specific there? I'm serious as a heart attack.

anybody that blames hydroplaning on the suspension should be immediately dismissed as "I have no idea what I'm talking about"

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can tell that you've never had a good set of shocks on your vehicle(s). Otherwise, you'd know what I'm talking about. You, sir, are dismissed.

whatever man. Physics owns you.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: spidey07
anybody that blames hydroplaning on the suspension should be immediately dismissed as "I have no idea what I'm talking about"

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can tell that you've never had a good set of shocks on your vehicle(s). Otherwise, you'd know what I'm talking about. You, sir, are dismissed.

You know, it's morons like you that drove Roger away. It just hurts my head to think that you're in earnest with this bullcrap.

ZV

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can tell that you've never had a good set of shocks on your vehicle(s). Otherwise, you'd know what I'm talking about. You, sir, are dismissed.

Another wild oat of Old Man Dumbass is found. That old dude really got around.

Shocks are irrelevant to hydroplaning. If there is some miniscule amount that they can possibly help, it is FAR outweighed by the effect tires have on it.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

Alignment/rotation: A good alignment guy is hard to find. It's mostly bs. If your ft./rr. is out of alignment, slightly, then step up the rotation times. 2500 - 5000 miles will usually hit the sweet spot. Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse.

Front/rear w/the new tires: I always put my new tires on the drive wheels. Worked for me. Nowadays I buy my tires in sets of 4 or 5 anyway, so that doesn't matter.

Dry rot: if the sidewall is cracking, get new tires. If they're dryrotted the tires, not to mention the driver, shouldn't be on the road. It's the UV that kills em. The heat generated by driving preserves them. Put some ruglyde on em now and again.

Oversteer/understeer w/a blowout: This is mainly driver error. What do you do when you get a blowout @ 70mph? Ease off the gas? Slow down? Steer off the road? Nah! Man, if you get a high speed blowout, stomp on the gas - floor it to maintain speed and control, then ease it off the road.

Speaking of oversteer/understeer: Correct that w/inflation pressure. After you find the pressures that make the tires wear even, then make small pressure adjustments, ft/rr, to balance the car in the corners. Me, w/rwd, I want that ass to kick a little when I lift. Gotta be hard into it, in third gear, for that to even work, unless you're runnin' your rr tires too low.

Oh, yeah, if you're runnin' a 944, never mind. Different beast.

Some people are just clueless.
1. Shocks/struts have little to no bearing on hydroplaning. Don't know where you get that idea from. When's the last time you saw shocks advertised to prevent/help hydroplaning? How about NEVER.
2. Cars most certainly DO need alignments from time to time. Accidents are NOT the only reason. Ever hear of potholes? How about curbs? These can all cause alignments to be off.
3. Speed up if you have a blowout to maintain speed and control? So going faster will HELP you maintain control? I guess that's why you see all those race cars slowing down immediately after a blowout. You should let off the gas, but not stomp the brakes.
4, Forget the MANUFACTURER recommended inflation pressure? Go by what's on the tires? Yeah, I'm sure the manufacturer has no clue about how much pressure their particular car needs to run. Tell me this, genius: If many different cars, of varying weights and drivetrain configurations all run the same tire, are you saying that they all should run the same pressure because that's what's on the sidewall? Yes, you are. And you are 100% wrong.
Please stop posting now, and leave the advice to the professionals.

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Originally posted by: spidey07
anybody that blames hydroplaning on the suspension should be immediately dismissed as "I have no idea what I'm talking about"

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can tell that you've never had a good set of shocks on your vehicle(s). Otherwise, you'd know what I'm talking about. You, sir, are dismissed.

You know, it's morons like you that drove Roger away. It just hurts my head to think that you're in earnest with this bullcrap.

ZV

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can't tell if you're replying to me or Spidey, but I'll tell you this: What drove Roger away was some a**hole computer nerd, from this site, sending him porn email that his kid accidently read. So don't go laying that on me. I don't have the typing abilities that most of you guys seem to have, but I've been driving longer than most of you've been alive. What I stated in my op is on the money, and if you guys can't see that, well...................

 

[Jeff7181]

This is just a pissing match now. It's a shame too because it's a relevant subject.

TwoBills... I can't even reply to you cause you replied inside my quote which takes too much effort and time to read, separating my statements from your's. Not to mention how much effort it would take me to quote and reply to the points you may have brought up.

 

[91TTZ]

Originally posted by: TwoBills

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.

You're trying to tell me that hydroplaning doesn't have much to do with the tires, the things which are doing the hydroplaning because the water under the tire can't escape quickly enough to allow the rubber to get a good grip on the road? You don't think that water drainage channels make any difference on a tire?

On my Z, I've had tires that were slick as ice in the rain. Try using slicks in the rain, and then try to blame it on the shocks.

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

.

Some people are just clueless.
1. Shocks/struts have little to no bearing on hydroplaning. Don't know where you get that idea from. When's the last time you saw shocks advertised to prevent/help hydroplaning? How about NEVER.
---------So if they're never advertised, then that's it, right? What can I say. I'm right about the shocks. Spend a little money, cruise a rainy road at speed and see. The shocks will help keep you strapped down. Period.
2. Cars most certainly DO need alignments from time to time. Accidents are NOT the only reason. Ever hear of potholes? How about curbs? These can all cause alignments to be off.
--------- Again, with the proper rotation schedule, with the exception of drastic circumstances, you don't need alignments. Potholes? Hm. Maybe my good shocks takes care of that.
3. Speed up if you have a blowout to maintain speed and control? So going faster will HELP you maintain control? I guess that's why you see all those race cars slowing down immediately after a blowout. You should let off the gas, but not stomp the brakes.
----------I didn't say speed up. I said "stomp the gas" or "floor it". Let's see if I can explain it, slowly, so you'll understand it. When you get a blowout, the tire is going flat, fast, causing you to loose speed. In order to maintain speed you have to give it gas. That maintains speed, and control. You're not going faster, you're maintaining speed. If you let off the gas you're just adding to the problem. Blowout, car is slowing, let off the gas, car is slowing more, possible loss of control. Slowing too fast. Blowout, hit the gas, car maintains speed, ease off the gas, car slows, under control.
4, Forget the MANUFACTURER recommended inflation pressure? Go by what's on the tires? Yeah, I'm sure the manufacturer has no clue about how much pressure their particular car needs to run. Tell me this, genius: If many different cars, of varying weights and drivetrain configurations all run the same tire, are you saying that they all should run the same pressure because that's what's on the sidewall? Yes, you are. And you are 100% wrong.
----------What I said, and I'll say it again, slowly, again, so you'll understand is: you judge your air pressure by the way the tire is wearing. Sometimes this approaches the maximum sidewall pressure, as in the case of a loaded truck, sometimes not. The manufacturers set their recommended pressures low to improve the ride on some crappy riding models. If you go by the way the tire is wearing you can't go wrong.

Please stop posting now, and leave the advice to the professionals.

--------Oh, I see, only professionals can reply to a thread on here. I didn't know that. I think I will stop posting now and leave this thread to all you "professionals". :laugh:
See you boys in my rearview.

 

[TheLonelyPhoenix]

I can't believe this thread is still alive.

 

[91TTZ]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
-Oh, I see, only professionals can reply to a thread on here. I didn't know that. I think I will stop posting now and leave this thread to all you "professionals". :laugh:
See you boys in my rearview.

You were giving REALLY bad advice. So bad, in fact, that I gave you the benefit of the doubt and assumed you were joking.

The things about tires not having much to do with hydroplaning is just laughably ridiculous.

 

[ManyBeers]

Originally posted by: spidey07
Oh, one more thing about hydroplaning...had it happened many, many times.

1) I was driving what I considered normal for conditions and hit a low spot in the road where there was standing water (think 60-65 MPH on a just wet expressway and come up on a large pool of standing water)a
2) at this point I'm driving too fast for conditions
3) car begins to ski...driving less than 40 MPH would avoid this condition
4) You hydroplane and you are in trouble...best to hold on to the wheel and make very minor adjustments to get through it or just simply try and hold your line.

man, its spooky. very spooky to really hydroplane and without knowing how to deal with it I can see a car going completely out of control.

Which is why if the rain is really coming down I slow to 40-45 MPH and put on my flashers.

Been there done that ...very spooky..yes.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: TwoBills
I can't tell if you're replying to me or Spidey, but I'll tell you this: What drove Roger away was some a**hole computer nerd, from this site, sending him porn email that his kid accidently read. So don't go laying that on me. I don't have the typing abilities that most of you guys seem to have, but I've been driving longer than most of you've been alive. What I stated in my op is on the money, and if you guys can't see that, well...................

Your "OP"

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------20,000 miles!? More like every 3 - 5,000 miles. Gotta rotate w/every oil change if you want tread life and even wear.[.b]
This depends on the car. Every 5k miles, I can go with. You can't hurt your tires doing that, and it's enough miles to justify that you aren't wasting money.
Your other posts, regarding hydroplaning and such, are crap. Not to mention 100% wrong, as I pointed out above.
I doubt you're been driving longer than I've been alive,(no teenage pimple farmer here) and even if you have, that doesn't make you an authority on car care. When I said leave the advice to the professionals, it was because your advice was wrong.
The fact that I happen to be a professional myself is irrelevant.
I don't care if the advice you're giving you just read out of a book, as long as it is good.
If not, you're very liable to be called on it, as was the case here.