AMD RYZEN Builders Thread

[Malogeek]

So 14 or lower latency or exactly 14?

You don't really want to go lower, your choices are minimal and likely very expensive.

Samsung b-die are usually 14-14-14-34 CL14.

 

[IEC]

So 14 or lower latency or exactly 14?

3200 MHz, 14-14-14-34 CL14 is what you are looking for - that is guaranteed B-die.

3000 MHz, 14-14-14-34 CL14 may be B-die.

Any lower is not guaranteed to be anything.

 

[formulav8]

As someone with non-samsung memory, I'd highly recommend spending the extra $50, I wish I did.

As someone (Asus B350 Prime-Plus) with GSkill Hynix 3000-Mhz ram, and rated at 15-16-16-16 timings. I am happy with my ram running 14-15-15-15 @ 3066mhz settings. To each their own obviously.

 

[VirtualLarry]

My Team Vulcan DDR4-3000 16-18-18-38 1.350V 2x8GB kit, won't run / POST reliably above 2667, in my ASRock AB350M Pro4 board, even with UEFI 3.00 with AGESA 1.0.0.6a. Sigh.

Edit: I think that I got these to work in my two rigs at 2800 speed, by adjusting tRC upwards, from 56 to 72. (Probably didn't need to go quite that high, but it works.)

 

[Malogeek]

As someone (Asus B350 Prime-Plus) with GSkill Hynix 3000-Mhz ram, and rated at 15-16-16-16 timings. I am happy with my ram running 14-15-15-15 @ 3066mhz settings. To each their own obviously.

And yet my Asus Prime X370-Pro can't go above 2933 and 16-18-18-18 on my Hynix G.Skill RAM

 

[IEC]

My Team Vulcan DDR4-3000 16-18-18-38 1.350V 2x8GB kit, won't run / POST reliably above 2667, in my ASRock AB350M Pro4 board, even with UEFI 3.00 with AGESA 1.0.0.6a. Sigh.

I bet you have dual-rank DIMMs. Which in themselves produce a small performance benefit equivalent to being closer to 2933 single-rank speeds, so you should feel a bit better.

 

[DrMrLordX]

So 14 or lower latency or exactly 14?

I made it simple by just showing you the kits that are almost 100% guaranteed to be single-rank Samsung b-die. Pick one of those and you should be okay.

The general rule is DDR4-3200 CAS/CL 14 or DDR4-3600 CAS whatever. The only type of DDR4 binned for 3600 and higher is b-die, so there's no way to go wrong with that stuff.

 

[funks]

Just a heads up, Gigabyte boards are having issues with Sound Blaster PCI-E sounds cards not getting detected on certain reboots. Can't be fixed via the BIOS it seems and requires RMA - probably a good idea to wait for new revisions from Gigabyte. Additionally, the soft brick issue root cause still has not been found.

http://forum.gigabyte.us/post/9129

 

[IEC]

Just a heads up, Gigabyte boards are having issues with Sound Blaster PCI-E sounds cards not getting detected on certain reboots. Can't be fixed via the BIOS it seems and requires RMA - probably a good idea to wait for new revisions from Gigabyte. Additionally, the soft brick issue root cause still has not been found.

http://forum.gigabyte.us/post/9129

What is the "soft brick" issue and which board(s) and UEFI version(s) does it affect?

I have not experienced this with either the Gigabyte X370 Gaming K7 or AB350 Gaming 3, and I have used initial BIOS up to 1.0.0.6 on those boards (though consider 1.0.0.6 UEFI update first "stable" UEFI)

 

[plopke]

What is the "soft brick" issue and which board(s) and UEFI version(s) does it affect?

I have not experienced this with either the Gigabyte X370 Gaming K7 or AB350 Gaming 3, and I have used initial BIOS up to 1.0.0.6 on those boards (though consider 1.0.0.6 UEFI update first "stable" UEFI)

Ok so they are aware of it nice, i was kinda looking for this also. For me sometimes on a boot(more common on a reboot) after cpu/mem/gpu have been initialized according to the motherboard LEDs , screen is actually turned on and show the logo it just stops there(see image below). I had this once with a bios before F7 and unplugging my steam controller suddenly made it move ahead again so I was thinking it is a usb thing but no clue any more, because nothing happens if I do it now. Sometimes it does not happen for weeks and then sometimes 2 days in a row , once in windows i can stress test and not a hiccup. Still thinking it has something to do with usb.
.

UPDATE : mm might be people are talking about a other kind of soft brick.

 

[funks]

Sup guys, was wondering if some of you guys help test your Ryzen setups under Linux compiles. Don't even have to install Linux on the HDD, this is via the LiveUSB method. Be nice if you guys can run it for at least 8 hours (start it before going to sleep) then let us know how your system faired after waking up. Both my rigs are affected which can be fixed on one by disabling OpCache Control (Taichi), the Gigabyte doesn't have the UEFI setting.

Here's a quick guide for Ryzen people wanting to try this on their computer but don't want to install Linux (but have Windows running)

BIOS Setup: (may not have to do this for people with stable rigs)
Load Defaults (save and reboot)
Load XMP Profile 1
Enable SVM (Virtualization)
Disable CSM
Save and reboot.

Couple of Pre-Requisites:

1) 16 GB USB Drive
2) Download RUFUS Tool for Windows
3) Download artful-desktop-amd64.iso *OR* ubuntu-17.04-desktop-amd64.iso

Note: daily builds of Artful Aardvark comes with Kernel 4.11, while Zesty Zapus comes with Kernel 4.10.

4) Burn ISO image using RUFUS Tool onto USB Drive
5) Download AOMEI Partition Assistant Standard (Free)
6) Run the Partition Assistant program and resize the FAT32 partition on the USB DRIVE to 4 Gigabytes, then apply the changes
7) Add a second partition with a file system type of "Unformatted" to the USB DRIVE, size it at 8 Gigabytes, then apply the changes.

Actual Procedure:

1) Plug in USB Drive
2) Boot to UEFI
3) In the UEFI screen, select Exit Tab -> Boot Override -> UEFI : USB Drive
4) In the GRUB screen, make sure "Try Ubuntu without installing" is highlighted, hit ''e" key.
5) Change the section with the words "quiet splash" to "nomodeset" then hit "F10" (note, only change those two words, only needs to be performed on GTX 1080, or 1080TI+).

6) It should take you to the ubuntu desktop
7) Turn off screen saver

Artful Ardvark (17.10):

System Settings -> Power -> Power Saving [Section] -> Blank screen = Never, then hit the [x] icon to close the window.

Zesty Zapus (17.04):

Navigate [Gear Icon] -> System Settings -> "Brightness & Lock" -> "Turn screen off when inactive for: " = Never, then hit [x] icon to close window

8) Right click on desktop and select "Open Terrminal"
9) In terminal, type "sudo su -"
10) It should log you in as root and change your working directory to /root
11) Type "free" - if it's showing you have 8 Gigs of SWAP then ignore SECTIONS 12 -> 15
12) Type "lsblk" to get a list of drives and partitions available in the system
13) Locate the block device alias for your USB DRIVE (in my system - it was /dev/sdb)
14) Type "mkswap /dev/sd?2" - replace the question mark with the correct device alias letter
15) Type "swapon /dev/sd?2" - replace the question mark with the correct device alias letter, this will use the secondary partition on the USB DRIVE as system swap space
15) type "wget http://funks.ddns.net:8080/tools/ryzen/testRyzenGCC.sh"
16) type "chmod 700 testRyzenGCC.sh"
17) type "./testRyzenGCC.sh" to startup the GCC 7.1.0 build loop which will download the pre-reqs
18) If the build loop crashes or stops, then you got something funky going on with your system

Note: may be a good idea to open up another terminal and run "top" to see what's going on while GCC is compiling. Bad practice to run things as as root but this is a live usb. My setup needed the "nomodeset" setting otherwise the GUI doesn't come up.

 

[Moishe]

I just put my Ryzen together and it went fairly well, but I need to monitor it more to be sure.
I built this in my old Core2 Quad machine by just switching out MB, CPU, RAM, cooler.
The MB is really nice, I'm impressed with it. I upgraded the BIOS before installing anything.
I have no intention of OCing, just want a stable system.
Using the XMP profile, the RAM shows 2933 in BIOS. Using AMD Ryzen Master is shows 1467 which is half of 2933. Unsure what the deal is with that. Maybe it's just measuring it differently. The MB had a paper in it saying to install the RAM in A2 and B2 if using dual channel, so that's what I did.
BIOS shows the CPU temp at anywhere from 59c-63c. I thought that was high so I checked hwinfo64 and Ryzen Master. Hwinfo64 shows the same as BIOS, Ryzen Master shows ~20c less, which seems to be "how it's supposed to work," and seems pretty dumb. Temp is a fact not an interpretation.

Ryzen 1600x
WD Black 256GB M.2
ASRock Killer AC
2x8GB Gskill Ripjaw 3000 (F4-3000C15D-16GVRB)
DeepCool Gammax 400

**update** I used the Asrock Sapphire boot tool in BIOS to set 3800 with no other changes. It worked fine until I played a FPS in steam for a bit. Got a BSOD in Win10. Had to reset to 3600 to get it working again. More to come. Interesting that no matter what I set the CPU at it shows as being 3.69Ghz in Win10 taskman despite running at other speeds (currently 3.8Ghz).

 

[richierich1212]

Showing 1467MHz speed is correct for 2933MHz speeds (DDR = Double Data Rate so 2x 1467 = 2933)

 

[EXCellR8]

anyone got a 1500X stable @ 4.1 to 4.3ghz?

mine crashes hard unless I send about 1.32v into it

 

[DrMrLordX]

If you can get a 1500x to run @ 4.1 GHz or higher, good on you! Not an easy task, that.

 

[.vodka]

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627555/ryzen-memory-ic-collection-thread

This list is really helpful, especially with the thaiphoon burner screenshots of each kit. Thanks to it I found some B-die stuff (TridentZ 3466C16 2x8GB, probably 3200C14 factory OC'd) available locally, already got a 1700, should be picking up a C6H tomorrow (wanted a Taichi at first but those are really hard to get).

Birthday coming up so... yeah. Nice to be back to AMD after that Sempron modded to Athlon XP in 2003-2006. Time to find the 2500k+Sabertooth P67+4x4GB DDR3-1866 a buyer. If that lasted me six years I think I'll get similar mileage out of this. I'll probably upgrade to a Ryzen 2 or 3 down the road.

I'm happy the C6H lets me reuse my old heatsink which has AM3 mounting holes but not AM4. Should be more than enough for 3.8-4GHz, hope the silicon lottery treats me well. Sandy spoiled me with its overclocking prowess

 

[Agent-47]

I think most of the issues with dual ranked and/or non-b-die ram have been solved. got my friend a hynix 3200C16 ram and it works fine since AGESA 1.0.0.6, especially on upper mid range boards (£100 or more)

another note on dual ranked RAM is that they are faster than single ranked RAM. especially with ryzen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u827fdCOCao (anywhere between 5%-15% performance when the GPU is not being bottlenecked)

I do regret getting single ranked sticks myself when I built mine at launch.

 

[coercitiv]

another note on dual ranked RAM is that they are faster than single ranked RAM. especially with ryzen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u827fdCOCao (anywhere between 5%-15% performance when the GPU is not being bottlenecked)

I see a video comparing single channel vs. dual channel, not single rank vs. dual rank.

 

[Agent-47]

I see a video comparing single channel vs. dual channel, not single rank vs. dual rank.

oops. sorry, grabed the wrong link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY77Xw0D0mM&t

Single rank @ Geil X Evo 2666/3200 vs Dual Rank @ ADATA 2666/3066

hope you speak russian

also
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Ryzen-5-1600X-CPU-265842/Tests/R5-1500X-Review-Mainstream-1225280/3/&edit-text=

https://www.golem.de/news/ram-overc...-von-ddr4-3200-und-dual-rank-1704-127262.html

according to them, a 3200 MH SR is approx equal to a 2666/2800 MHz DR, depending on what game/application you are running

 

[coercitiv]

hope you speak russian

No, but I speak benchmark. Thx!

 

[repoman0]

oops. sorry, grabed the wrong link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY77Xw0D0mM&t

Single rank @ Geil X Evo 2666/3200 vs Dual Rank @ ADATA 2666/3066

hope you speak russian

also
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Ryzen-5-1600X-CPU-265842/Tests/R5-1500X-Review-Mainstream-1225280/3/&edit-text=

https://www.golem.de/news/ram-overc...-von-ddr4-3200-und-dual-rank-1704-127262.html

according to them, a 3200 MH SR is approx equal to a 2666/2800 MHz DR, depending on what game/application you are running

Interesting. If these results are representative, it sounds like the "Samsung B-die single rank" stuff was really overhyped. I'd be perfectly happy with 2666MHz dual rank given those results, particularly since that means I could start with 2x16GB sticks and go 64GB down the road with no performance penalty.

It also looks like guaranteed B-die RAM is even more overpriced than normal DDR4, so good news on that front that it's not really necessary.

 

[formulav8]

It also looks like guaranteed B-die RAM is even more overpriced than normal DDR4,

I have the so-called yucky GSkill 3000 2x8GB Hynix, but running 3066 mhz @14cl on my setup. With 16-15 (or something) other timings.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Single ranked is slower at the same clock in some benchmarks, but not all. It's kind of a wash since you get higher clocks with single-rank kits.

 

[Sonikku]

Samsung b-die are the chips used on the DIMMs. They're highly compatible with Ryzen systems and basically guaranteed to have no problems hitting the desired rating for the memory. Considering how well Ryzen scales with memory speed, you want at least 3200 b-die CL14. As someone with non-samsung memory, I'd highly recommend spending the extra $50, I wish I did.

But isn't that $50 better spent going up a processor tier (or gpu tier) instead?

 

[Reinvented]

But isn't that $50 better spent going up a processor tier (or gpu tier) instead?

With how high GPU prices are still? 50 won't get you very far. As for CPU? You can overclock a 1700, and it be competitive and faster than the 1700X/1800X. You'd still be saving more money to put towards better memory for overclocking.