I use "fan control" software to control my fans, which are all connected to the motherboard. I don't think there is a "better way" than the configuration you prefer.
Fan control does everything I need, but I don't have any RGB I want to control.
GitHub - Rem0o/FanControl.Releases: This is the release repository for Fan Control, a highly customizable fan controlling software for Windows.
This is the release repository for Fan Control, a highly customizable fan controlling software for Windows. - Rem0o/FanControl.Releasesgithub.com
Fan Control is a newer software, released just a year or two ago I believe. You might be remembering Speed Fan, which was great for it's time but started having issues and wasn't being updated any more. Fan Control offers a lot more flexibility, including the ability to control fans with multiple sensors at the same time. Most software and BIOS control doesn't allow that, you have to choose between something like CPU or GPU temp, but not both. JayTwoCents did a video on it some time ago if you want to see it in action. The benefit to controlling fans in Windows is that you can adjust on the fly rather than having to jump back into BIOS every time you want to change something.I decided to switch it and connected all the fans directly to the mobo. The advantage is that I get to see the fan speeds in the BIOS, before getting into Windows.
I recall using the Fan Control software years ago. Really a while ago. But since then, mobo functionality, such as Q-Fan on Asus motherboards has improved.
Fan Control is a newer software, released just a year or two ago I believe. You might be remembering Speed Fan, which was great for it's time but started having issues and wasn't being updated any more. Fan Control offers a lot more flexibility, including the ability to control fans with multiple sensors at the same time. Most software and BIOS control doesn't allow that, you have to choose between something like CPU or GPU temp, but not both. JayTwoCents did a video on it some time ago if you want to see it in action. The benefit to controlling fans in Windows is that you can adjust on the fly rather than having to jump back into BIOS every time you want to change something.
It's a nice piece of software - and it saves time since I don't need to bounce into the BIOS just to tweak a fan setting. There's a new 'mixed sensor' graph that allows me to adjust fan speeds automatically based on whether the CPU or GPU are hitting higher temperatures at any given time (instead of switching profiles like 'gaming' and 'CPU intensive').You are right, it was Speed Fan.
Hmm, I am going to check out Fan Control.
Micro Center finally reduced the price of the 7800X3D kit, but it's at least $50 too high. Hopefully there will be Black Friday deals. If I'm even going to build a rig, then I'll also need a graphics card and new PSU.It took me a while to get my act together to get this computer upgrade. I waited for 7800x3d and then for 7800 XT GPU, so I am set for some time. It has been 10 years to finally upgrade my old PC (see my sig).
I could be tempted to get Zen 5 V-Cache when it comes out, if the performance jump is really compelling.
The buildzoid settings varied a bit with each run but was pretty much the same as before, while the EXPO settings were far better than on the old BIOS. Also memory training is a lot faster.
Bios 1.18 EXPO
View attachment 88572
Bios 2.00 EXPO
View attachment 88569
Bios 1.21 Buildzoid
View attachment 88571
Bios 2.00 Buildzoid
View attachment 88570
They dropped the price on the 7800x3D to $300. I picked one up today with a $110 open box ASUS B650-PLUS TUF GAMING WIFI and a $40 open box G.Skill Ripjaws S5 6400c32 32GB kit. I already have 2 Flare X5 6000c30 32GB EXPO kits so the Ripjaws S5 kit I picked up today will go in my 13700k system. One of the Flare X5 kits is in my Intel system currently with a 6800c32 overclock. I also picked up a MAINGEAR IGNITION 1200 Watt 80 Plus Platinum they had on sale for $99.Micro Center finally reduced the price of the 7800X3D kit, but it's at least $50 too high. Hopefully there will be Black Friday deals. If I'm even going to build a rig, then I'll also need a graphics card and new PSU.
I had a similar issue on my daughter's Gigabyte board (B650 Aorus Elite AX) and also on a Lenovo laptop (the wireless in this case). What worked for me was going in to the BIOS and disabling the Ethernet, booting to Windows, then restarting and going back into the BIOS and enabling it again. I had an RMA all set for the laptop and something told me to try this and it worked. Both have been rock solid ever since.I started to get weird issue with my mobo - when i turn on the computer (in the morning, turned it off previous evening/night), i get no internet. I have wifi turned-off by default and are connected to router via cable. And it randomly does not work and running the diagnostic does not seem to fix it (it recommends turning on wifi, which i did and that worked, but its half the speed of cable, so its no solution). Rebooting the computer fixes the problem. Any idea whats going on? Could it be cable issue? Cause the plastic thing on the end of the cable, that keeps the cable in the port, is broken off, so when i plug it in, its bit wiggly. But it flashes green, so it seems to be working, and anyway, "reseating" it does not fix the issue, rebooting computer does. So it seems more like a software problem?
Happened only twice so far, but the computer was fine for half a year.
EDIT: Only thing that changed recently (aside of any potential Windows updates, that i might have missed, but i am not aware), about 2 weeks ago, is that i changed router, as i changed internet provider (in order to move on from metallic 50Mbit to optical 1Gbit, and they gave me their own device).
Thanks, today it happened to me again, havent tried your fix yet, cause i was lazy to go to BIOS, and it worked for couple of days since then anyway. But today even rebooting did not help, so i went to look into Device Manager, and sure thing, the Intel Ethernet Controller had yellow triangle to it, saying Window stopped the device from working, cause it did not work correctly (Code 43). Forbidding (disallowing?) the device and allowing it back fixed it.I had a similar issue on my daughter's Gigabyte board (B650 Aorus Elite AX) and also on a Lenovo laptop (the wireless in this case). What worked for me was going in to the BIOS and disabling the Ethernet, booting to Windows, then restarting and going back into the BIOS and enabling it again. I had an RMA all set for the laptop and something told me to try this and it worked. Both have been rock solid ever since.
Funny thing. This happened on my Sandy Bridge i5-2500 work PC today with network icon with yellow triangle. Checking in Device Manager said device cannot start. Uninstalled the device, scanned for hardware changes and it was re-installed. Lost the IP settings so had to re-input all that shebang and now it's working.Any idea why is this happening anyway? Could it be hardware issue, or if its fixable the way i did it, its only software issue? I tried to update the driver, but apparently i have the latest one.
Not sure why it happens honestly. My daughter has not had any issues since then with the Ethernet, but she had a different problem last night. Windows updated and needed to restart during the process. The PC wouldn't reboot, it said there were problems with the configuration and wanted to load default values into the BIOS. She has had the same configuration since we built it in December of 2022. Not sure what made it not work. I ended up going into the BIOS and reloading her profile that I had saved to USB and it booted fine. The fact that Windows appears to be changing BIOS settings on its own is really frustrating.Thanks, today it happened to me again, havent tried your fix yet, cause i was lazy to go to BIOS, and it worked for couple of days since then anyway. But today even rebooting did not help, so i went to look into Device Manager, and sure thing, the Intel Ethernet Controller had yellow triangle to it, saying Window stopped the device from working, cause it did not work correctly (Code 43). Forbidding (disallowing?) the device and allowing it back fixed it.
Any idea why is this happening anyway? Could it be hardware issue, or if its fixable the way i did it, its only software issue? I tried to update the driver, but apparently i have the latest one.
I'm not sure that's possible. It would be a serious wide open vector for malware killing PCs or cracking them wide open for infiltration by messing with BIOS settings.The fact that Windows appears to be changing BIOS settings on its own is really frustrating.
Various softwares can alter UEFI settings. Look at ryzen master, it can alter PBO and CO settings from windows.I'm not sure that's possible. It would be a serious wide open vector for malware killing PCs or cracking them wide open for infiltration by messing with BIOS settings.
Well what do you think caused your Ethernet settings to go awry? Did your PC do a Windows update?I'm not sure that's possible. It would be a serious wide open vector for malware killing PCs or cracking them wide open for infiltration by messing with BIOS settings.
Exactly. And AMD's Adrenaline software can also alter the settings, reverting the PBO and CO settings one has set already in the BIOS. You have to disable the task in the task scheduler (every frickin time you update the driver too!).Various softwares can alter UEFI settings. Look at ryzen master, it can alter PBO and CO settings from windows.
Yes but we are talking about Windows. Does Microsoft have the permission to fudge with their users' UEFI settings?Various softwares can alter UEFI settings. Look at ryzen master, it can alter PBO and CO settings from windows.
It's an older Win7 PC so maybe the old NIC is acting up. Earlier a few years ago, the NIC completely disappeared and then reappeared after a reboot. This time, it showed the yellow triangle and "could not start" message.Well what do you think caused your Ethernet settings to go awry? Did your PC do a Windows update?
Time for a new CMOS battery? Or was the Windows update a firmware update, which may have wiped custom CMOS settings.The PC wouldn't reboot, it said there were problems with the configuration and wanted to load default values into the BIOS. She has had the same configuration since we built it in December of 2022. Not sure what made it not work. I ended up going into the BIOS and reloading her profile that I had saved to USB and it booted fine. The fact that Windows appears to be changing BIOS settings on its own is really frustrating.
Mobo is only a year old, but I haven't checked the battery. When she went to bed last night she told Windows to update and shut down. I'd have to go back and see what updates it did. I thought I had hers set to only allow Windows updates and not update anything else though.Time for a new CMOS battery? Or was the Windows update a firmware update, which may have wiped custom CMOS settings.